There's a boiler drain on mine. I had little choice but to dump it into the
bilge. I'm not happy with the factory location and installation though, so
I'm moving the hot water tank to a location where I can work on it more
easily. As of now, I'm working in the dark, feeling my way around. I
should've been a gyno. By moving the hw tank, I can add a 3rd battery, which
is now sitting in my garage. http://www.seawardproducts.com/images/S700.jpg
Scout

"Scotty" wrote in message
...
When I bought my boat the PO had filled with RV AF not only
the HW tank, but the holding tank as well. Duh!

How did you drain your tank? Mine has a one way valve on
the IN side, I stick a bungie cord on it, the hook holds the
spring loaded valve open. To bypass I made a short hose
which I connect the IN /Out hoses with.


--
Scott Vernon
Plowville Pa _/)__/)_/)_

,
"Scout" wrote in message
. ..
"Edgar" wrote in message
. ..
How do you mean, bypass the water heater?
If it is heated by the engine then the engine side will
have antifreeze in
it (won't it?).
But the other side is your washing-up and showering
water. You cannot put
antifreeze in that and if you just bypass the heater it
will freeze and
burst. I am going to drain that side of mine and see no
other option for
the
winter.
What exactly are you planning to do?

That's my RV personality coming through. In an RV, when
winterizing, a
by-pass is installed as well as isolating valves on the
tank, so that the
hot water tank can be drained but the RV anti-freeze can
be flushed through
the tubing. http://www.peakantifreeze.com/rvmarine.htm
Since no one wants to fill a HW tank with anti-freeze,
this configuration is
appropriate.
You're right about the engine side of the heat exchanger,
I'll merely check
the anti-freeze on that side.
Scout