Anyone familiar with PEXtite systems?

After getting a close up look at my plumbing, I'm considering some changes and mods, like a bypass on the hot water heater for winterizing purposes.

Looks like it's easy to work with. Just need to find a local supplier.

Scout

How do you mean, bypass the water heater?
If it is heated by the engine then the engine side will have antifreeze in
it (won't it?).
But the other side is your washing-up and showering water. You cannot put
antifreeze in that and if you just bypass the heater it will freeze and
burst. I am going to drain that side of mine and see no other option for the
winter.
What exactly are you planning to do?
"Scout" wrote in message
. ..
Anyone familiar with PEXtite systems?

After getting a close up look at my plumbing, I'm considering some changes
and mods, like a bypass on the hot water heater for winterizing purposes.

Looks like it's easy to work with. Just need to find a local supplier.

Scout

"Edgar" wrote in message
. ..
How do you mean, bypass the water heater?
If it is heated by the engine then the engine side will have antifreeze in
it (won't it?).
But the other side is your washing-up and showering water. You cannot put
antifreeze in that and if you just bypass the heater it will freeze and
burst. I am going to drain that side of mine and see no other option for
the
winter.
What exactly are you planning to do?

That's my RV personality coming through. In an RV, when winterizing, a
by-pass is installed as well as isolating valves on the tank, so that the
hot water tank can be drained but the RV anti-freeze can be flushed through
the tubing. http://www.peakantifreeze.com/rvmarine.htm
Since no one wants to fill a HW tank with anti-freeze, this configuration is
appropriate.
You're right about the engine side of the heat exchanger, I'll merely check
the anti-freeze on that side.
Scout

Scout wrote:
Anyone familiar with PEXtite systems?

After getting a close up look at my plumbing, I'm considering some
changes and mods, like a bypass on the hot water heater for winterizing
purposes.

Looks like it's easy to work with. Just need to find a local supplier.

Scout


My boat was built with the Whale "System 15" throughout. I think its
similar, except that the fittings are a slightly different size (15
mm?). For a while, I had trouble getting parts, then, once I was
fully stocked, West start to carry two different brands.

Its actually rather nice to be able disconnect and re-connect quickly.
For winterizing, I disconnect the main delivery, and blow out the
lines with a dinghy pump or compressor. Then I disconnect a few of
the low spots. There are a few small issues. The connectors do wear
out with use, so in the spring I usually have a little trouble getting
it all tight. Usually, a little poking and tugging gets everything
seated well. The hardest can be the delivery from the tank where a
small air leak confuses the pump.

Another problem I had was that plastic fittings were used to connect
to the water heater, and one of these failed within 6 months. A metal
tail must be used in this situation. Also, there were no shutoffs - I
added one on the lone to the hot water heater so that any leak on that
side doesn't disable the cold water. Also, I added shutoffs to the
cockpit shower so that the lines "outside" of the heated part of the
boat can be shut down.

A downside, of course, is that the tube is only semi-flexible and you
have to think about how to do runs. If need be, you can mix it with
traditional pipe.

"Jeff" wrote in message
...
Scout wrote:
Anyone familiar with PEXtite systems?
After getting a close up look at my plumbing, I'm considering some
changes and mods, like a bypass on the hot water heater for winterizing
purposes.
Looks like it's easy to work with. Just need to find a local supplier.
Scout

My boat was built with the Whale "System 15" throughout. I think its
similar, except that the fittings are a slightly different size (15 mm?).
For a while, I had trouble getting parts, then, once I was fully stocked,
West start to carry two different brands.

Its actually rather nice to be able disconnect and re-connect quickly. For
winterizing, I disconnect the main delivery, and blow out the lines with a
dinghy pump or compressor. Then I disconnect a few of the low spots.
There are a few small issues. The connectors do wear out with use, so in
the spring I usually have a little trouble getting it all tight. Usually,
a little poking and tugging gets everything seated well. The hardest can
be the delivery from the tank where a small air leak confuses the pump.

Another problem I had was that plastic fittings were used to connect to
the water heater, and one of these failed within 6 months. A metal tail
must be used in this situation. Also, there were no shutoffs - I added
one on the lone to the hot water heater so that any leak on that side
doesn't disable the cold water. Also, I added shutoffs to the cockpit
shower so that the lines "outside" of the heated part of the boat can be
shut down.

A downside, of course, is that the tube is only semi-flexible and you have
to think about how to do runs. If need be, you can mix it with
traditional pipe.

Thanks Jeff,
I started winterizing today. Checked the engine coolant, reads good to -10
deg F.
Poured a gallon of RV anti-freeze in the toilet and flushed it into the
tank. Pour a quart in the shower drain and sucked it dry with the pump.
Poured some in the ice box but the pump didn't suck it out, may be a
blockage, i'll check that next time. Drained the hot water heater tank.
Tomorrow is another day, just as long as it doesn't get below 32 tonight!
Scout

Why are you Winterizing now, it's still Fall?


--
Scott Vernon
Plowville Pa _/)__/)_/)_


"Scout" wrote in message
. ..
"Jeff" wrote in message
...
Scout wrote:
Anyone familiar with PEXtite systems?
After getting a close up look at my plumbing, I'm
considering some
changes and mods, like a bypass on the hot water heater
for winterizing
purposes.
Looks like it's easy to work with. Just need to find a
local supplier.
Scout

My boat was built with the Whale "System 15" throughout.
I think its
similar, except that the fittings are a slightly
different size (15 mm?).
For a while, I had trouble getting parts, then, once I
was fully stocked,
West start to carry two different brands.

Its actually rather nice to be able disconnect and
re-connect quickly. For
winterizing, I disconnect the main delivery, and blow
out the lines with a
dinghy pump or compressor. Then I disconnect a few of
the low spots.
There are a few small issues. The connectors do wear
out with use, so in
the spring I usually have a little trouble getting it
all tight. Usually,
a little poking and tugging gets everything seated well.
The hardest can
be the delivery from the tank where a small air leak
confuses the pump.

Another problem I had was that plastic fittings were
used to connect to
the water heater, and one of these failed within 6
months. A metal tail
must be used in this situation. Also, there were no
shutoffs - I added
one on the lone to the hot water heater so that any leak
on that side
doesn't disable the cold water. Also, I added shutoffs
to the cockpit
shower so that the lines "outside" of the heated part of
the boat can be
shut down.

A downside, of course, is that the tube is only
semi-flexible and you have
to think about how to do runs. If need be, you can mix
it with
traditional pipe.

Thanks Jeff,
I started winterizing today. Checked the engine coolant,
reads good to -10
deg F.
Poured a gallon of RV anti-freeze in the toilet and
flushed it into the
tank. Pour a quart in the shower drain and sucked it dry
with the pump.
Poured some in the ice box but the pump didn't suck it
out, may be a
blockage, i'll check that next time. Drained the hot water
heater tank.
Tomorrow is another day, just as long as it doesn't get
below 32 tonight!
Scout

When I bought my boat the PO had filled with RV AF not only
the HW tank, but the holding tank as well. Duh!

How did you drain your tank? Mine has a one way valve on
the IN side, I stick a bungie cord on it, the hook holds the
spring loaded valve open. To bypass I made a short hose
which I connect the IN /Out hoses with.


--
Scott Vernon
Plowville Pa _/)__/)_/)_

,
"Scout" wrote in message
. ..
"Edgar" wrote in message
. ..
How do you mean, bypass the water heater?
If it is heated by the engine then the engine side will
have antifreeze in
it (won't it?).
But the other side is your washing-up and showering
water. You cannot put
antifreeze in that and if you just bypass the heater it
will freeze and
burst. I am going to drain that side of mine and see no
other option for
the
winter.
What exactly are you planning to do?

That's my RV personality coming through. In an RV, when
winterizing, a
by-pass is installed as well as isolating valves on the
tank, so that the
hot water tank can be drained but the RV anti-freeze can
be flushed through
the tubing. http://www.peakantifreeze.com/rvmarine.htm
Since no one wants to fill a HW tank with anti-freeze,
this configuration is
appropriate.
You're right about the engine side of the heat exchanger,
I'll merely check
the anti-freeze on that side.
Scout

I'm a bit slow!
Scout

"Scotty" wrote in message
. ..
Why are you Winterizing now, it's still Fall?


--
Scott Vernon
Plowville Pa _/)__/)_/)_


"Scout" wrote in message
. ..
"Jeff" wrote in message
...
Scout wrote:
Anyone familiar with PEXtite systems?
After getting a close up look at my plumbing, I'm
considering some
changes and mods, like a bypass on the hot water heater
for winterizing
purposes.
Looks like it's easy to work with. Just need to find a
local supplier.
Scout

My boat was built with the Whale "System 15" throughout.
I think its
similar, except that the fittings are a slightly
different size (15 mm?).
For a while, I had trouble getting parts, then, once I
was fully stocked,
West start to carry two different brands.

Its actually rather nice to be able disconnect and
re-connect quickly. For
winterizing, I disconnect the main delivery, and blow
out the lines with a
dinghy pump or compressor. Then I disconnect a few of
the low spots.
There are a few small issues. The connectors do wear
out with use, so in
the spring I usually have a little trouble getting it
all tight. Usually,
a little poking and tugging gets everything seated well.
The hardest can
be the delivery from the tank where a small air leak
confuses the pump.

Another problem I had was that plastic fittings were
used to connect to
the water heater, and one of these failed within 6
months. A metal tail
must be used in this situation. Also, there were no
shutoffs - I added
one on the lone to the hot water heater so that any leak
on that side
doesn't disable the cold water. Also, I added shutoffs
to the cockpit
shower so that the lines "outside" of the heated part of
the boat can be
shut down.

A downside, of course, is that the tube is only
semi-flexible and you have
to think about how to do runs. If need be, you can mix
it with
traditional pipe.

Thanks Jeff,
I started winterizing today. Checked the engine coolant,
reads good to -10
deg F.
Poured a gallon of RV anti-freeze in the toilet and
flushed it into the
tank. Pour a quart in the shower drain and sucked it dry
with the pump.
Poured some in the ice box but the pump didn't suck it
out, may be a
blockage, i'll check that next time. Drained the hot water
heater tank.
Tomorrow is another day, just as long as it doesn't get
below 32 tonight!
Scout

Oh, it's for *last* Winter.

SV

"Scout" wrote in message
. ..
I'm a bit slow!
Scout

"Scotty" wrote in message
. ..
Why are you Winterizing now, it's still Fall?


--
Scott Vernon
Plowville Pa _/)__/)_/)_


"Scout" wrote in message
. ..
"Jeff" wrote in message
...
Scout wrote:
Anyone familiar with PEXtite systems?
After getting a close up look at my plumbing, I'm
considering some
changes and mods, like a bypass on the hot water
heater
for winterizing
purposes.
Looks like it's easy to work with. Just need to
find a
local supplier.
Scout

My boat was built with the Whale "System 15"
throughout.
I think its
similar, except that the fittings are a slightly
different size (15 mm?).
For a while, I had trouble getting parts, then, once
I
was fully stocked,
West start to carry two different brands.

Its actually rather nice to be able disconnect and
re-connect quickly. For
winterizing, I disconnect the main delivery, and blow
out the lines with a
dinghy pump or compressor. Then I disconnect a few
of
the low spots.
There are a few small issues. The connectors do wear
out with use, so in
the spring I usually have a little trouble getting it
all tight. Usually,
a little poking and tugging gets everything seated
well.
The hardest can
be the delivery from the tank where a small air leak
confuses the pump.

Another problem I had was that plastic fittings were
used to connect to
the water heater, and one of these failed within 6
months. A metal tail
must be used in this situation. Also, there were no
shutoffs - I added
one on the lone to the hot water heater so that any
leak
on that side
doesn't disable the cold water. Also, I added
shutoffs
to the cockpit
shower so that the lines "outside" of the heated part
of
the boat can be
shut down.

A downside, of course, is that the tube is only
semi-flexible and you have
to think about how to do runs. If need be, you can
mix
it with
traditional pipe.

Thanks Jeff,
I started winterizing today. Checked the engine
coolant,
reads good to -10
deg F.
Poured a gallon of RV anti-freeze in the toilet and
flushed it into the
tank. Pour a quart in the shower drain and sucked it
dry
with the pump.
Poured some in the ice box but the pump didn't suck it
out, may be a
blockage, i'll check that next time. Drained the hot
water
heater tank.
Tomorrow is another day, just as long as it doesn't get
below 32 tonight!
Scout

There's a boiler drain on mine. I had little choice but to dump it into the
bilge. I'm not happy with the factory location and installation though, so
I'm moving the hot water tank to a location where I can work on it more
easily. As of now, I'm working in the dark, feeling my way around. I
should've been a gyno. By moving the hw tank, I can add a 3rd battery, which
is now sitting in my garage. http://www.seawardproducts.com/images/S700.jpg
Scout

"Scotty" wrote in message
...
When I bought my boat the PO had filled with RV AF not only
the HW tank, but the holding tank as well. Duh!

How did you drain your tank? Mine has a one way valve on
the IN side, I stick a bungie cord on it, the hook holds the
spring loaded valve open. To bypass I made a short hose
which I connect the IN /Out hoses with.


--
Scott Vernon
Plowville Pa _/)__/)_/)_

,
"Scout" wrote in message
. ..
"Edgar" wrote in message
. ..
How do you mean, bypass the water heater?
If it is heated by the engine then the engine side will
have antifreeze in
it (won't it?).
But the other side is your washing-up and showering
water. You cannot put
antifreeze in that and if you just bypass the heater it
will freeze and
burst. I am going to drain that side of mine and see no
other option for
the
winter.
What exactly are you planning to do?

That's my RV personality coming through. In an RV, when
winterizing, a
by-pass is installed as well as isolating valves on the
tank, so that the
hot water tank can be drained but the RV anti-freeze can
be flushed through
the tubing. http://www.peakantifreeze.com/rvmarine.htm
Since no one wants to fill a HW tank with anti-freeze,
this configuration is
appropriate.
You're right about the engine side of the heat exchanger,
I'll merely check
the anti-freeze on that side.
Scout