Home |
Search |
Today's Posts |
|
#1
![]()
posted to alt.sailing.asa
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
My first plan would also be to get out of town. But remember I said a
SHTF condition. Shotgun would be to unwieldy inside of a house. Cut the barrel off and that's a problem with the law. AR15 packs plenty of punch if you are using 65 or 75 gr ammo. Normal is 45 or 55 gr. Also most AR15s shoot 5.56 which is harder hitting than 223. There's enough dead Iraqs to prove the AR is a good enough weapon. |
#2
![]()
posted to alt.sailing.asa
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
In article .com,
Ringmaster wrote: My first plan would also be to get out of town. But remember I said a SHTF condition. Shotgun would be to unwieldy inside of a house. Cut the barrel off and that's a problem with the law. AR15 packs plenty of punch if you are using 65 or 75 gr ammo. Normal is 45 or 55 gr. Also most AR15s shoot 5.56 which is harder hitting than 223. There's enough dead Iraqs to prove the AR is a good enough weapon. Do everyone a favour. DO NOT own a gun until you learn something (more) about them. 1. Using a rifle inside a house is plain stupid. A short barrelled shotgun is far more useful. 2. Using heavy FMJ bullets is also stupid. Use hollowpoints or soft nose rounds. The object is to transfer the kinetic energy into the target, not the wall, next house, etc etc. 3. There is NO DIFFERENCE between 5.56 NATO and .223 except the labels on the boxes. Go look up the SAAMI ammo spec if you don't believe me. I could dig out my reloading manuals and quote loads, bullet weights etc but frankly, I don't give a damn. I do thank my situation tho, which is not having you for a next door neighbour. PDW |
#3
![]()
posted to alt.sailing.asa
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
Do everyone a favour. DO NOT own a gun until you learn something
(more) about them. Another expert? Read on boy. 1. Using a rifle inside a house is plain stupid. A short barrelled shotgun is far more useful. I already said that's a problem with the law 2. Using heavy FMJ bullets is also stupid. Use hollowpoints or soft nose rounds. The object is to transfer the kinetic energy into the target, not the wall, next house, etc etc. When did I ever say I would be using FMJ for home protection? So aparently you are stupid since you can't read or your mind make things up. 3. There is NO DIFFERENCE between 5.56 NATO and .223 except the labels on the boxes. Go look up the SAAMI ammo spec if you don't believe me. And here is where you prove that you don't know **** about what you speak. You should read the SAAMI specs. Rifles that are chambered for 223 only can possibly go kaboom and mess up your face if an attempt is made to fire 5.56. Yes the two rounds have basicly the same exterior dimensions BUT the 5.56 is usually loaded to produce higher velocity and chamber pressures. The difference comes in the chambering of the rifle and that difference is in "leade". It may LOOK the same but a 5.56 round has a slightly longer lead than a 223. SAMMI considers the use of 5.56 ammo in a rifle that is chambered for 223 only as AN UNSAFE AMMUNITION COMBINATION. There are also a couple of additional minor measurement differences. You do a web search and check it out. Now you check out the SAAMI website and get an education. |
#4
![]()
posted to alt.sailing.asa
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
In article .com,
Ringmaster wrote: Do everyone a favour. DO NOT own a gun until you learn something (more) about them. Another expert? Read on boy. Hey, I've only been an active hunter, reloader and target shooter for 30+ years so far. I'm far from an expert. OTOH you admit you're a newbie. 1. Using a rifle inside a house is plain stupid. A short barrelled shotgun is far more useful. I already said that's a problem with the law Riiiight. So a rifle with a 16.01" bbl length is less unwieldy than a pistol gripped shotgun with a 18.01" bbl length. Suuure. If you think so. 2. Using heavy FMJ bullets is also stupid. Use hollowpoints or soft nose rounds. The object is to transfer the kinetic energy into the target, not the wall, next house, etc etc. When did I ever say I would be using FMJ for home protection? So aparently you are stupid since you can't read or your mind make things up. Good, you've learnt something without having to ask. Your neighbours may live to be pleased, even if you aren't. 3. There is NO DIFFERENCE between 5.56 NATO and .223 except the labels on the boxes. Go look up the SAAMI ammo spec if you don't believe me. And here is where you prove that you don't know **** about what you speak. You should read the SAAMI specs. Rifles that are chambered for 223 only can possibly go kaboom and mess up your face if an attempt is made to fire 5.56. Shrug. My memory is out about the chambers & pressures, but I'm right about the case sizes. I've reloaded *heaps* of boxer primed ex military brass, used to buy it for peanuts at gun shows, fired it interchangeably with commercial brass in both a Rem 700 Varmint and a Ruger Mini-14. However, it's quite safe to fire 223 Rem ammo in a military 5.56 NATO chamber. Ruger Mini-14's have been chambered for both and I used to use one regularly with ex mil 5.56 NATO ammo without any noticeable ill effects. Maybe because the Rem 700 was a high quality rifle not a cheap POS. http://www.thegunzone.com/556v223.html has some interesting comments. The most likely effect of an over pressure round is a backed out primer and a possibly binding action, not a rifle going 'kaboom and messing up your face'. Not desirable, but not the end of the world either. Ask any serious handloader who's worked up 'hot' loads a bit at a time. Still, you learn something new every day, hey? No need to thank me for expanding your knowledge base. If I get bored I'll dig out my reloading manuals and compare bullet weights & velocities. I assume you do understand the TANSTAAFL concept insofar as it's pretty hard to get higher MV with the same bullet weight and less chamber pressure. Of course that depends somewhat on the powder you've used, but frankly, I'm not that interested these days and if all you want to do is endanger your neighbours, you don't need to reload your own ammo. PDW |
#5
![]()
posted to alt.sailing.asa
|
|||
|
|||
![]() "Peter Wiley" wrote in message . .. In article .com, Ringmaster wrote: Do everyone a favour. DO NOT own a gun until you learn something (more) about them. Another expert? Read on boy. Hey, I've only been an active hunter, reloader and target shooter for 30+ years so far. I'm far from an expert. OTOH you admit you're a newbie. 1. Using a rifle inside a house is plain stupid. A short barrelled shotgun is far more useful. I already said that's a problem with the law Riiiight. So a rifle with a 16.01" bbl length is less unwieldy than a pistol gripped shotgun with a 18.01" bbl length. Suuure. If you think so. 2. Using heavy FMJ bullets is also stupid. Use hollowpoints or soft nose rounds. The object is to transfer the kinetic energy into the target, not the wall, next house, etc etc. When did I ever say I would be using FMJ for home protection? So aparently you are stupid since you can't read or your mind make things up. Good, you've learnt something without having to ask. Your neighbours may live to be pleased, even if you aren't. 3. There is NO DIFFERENCE between 5.56 NATO and .223 except the labels on the boxes. Go look up the SAAMI ammo spec if you don't believe me. And here is where you prove that you don't know **** about what you speak. You should read the SAAMI specs. Rifles that are chambered for 223 only can possibly go kaboom and mess up your face if an attempt is made to fire 5.56. Shrug. My memory is out about the chambers & pressures, but I'm right about the case sizes. I've reloaded *heaps* of boxer primed ex military brass, used to buy it for peanuts at gun shows, fired it interchangeably with commercial brass in both a Rem 700 Varmint and a Ruger Mini-14. However, it's quite safe to fire 223 Rem ammo in a military 5.56 NATO chamber. Ruger Mini-14's have been chambered for both and I used to use one regularly with ex mil 5.56 NATO ammo without any noticeable ill effects. Maybe because the Rem 700 was a high quality rifle not a cheap POS. http://www.thegunzone.com/556v223.html has some interesting comments. The most likely effect of an over pressure round is a backed out primer and a possibly binding action, not a rifle going 'kaboom and messing up your face'. Not desirable, but not the end of the world either. Ask any serious handloader who's worked up 'hot' loads a bit at a time. Still, you learn something new every day, hey? No need to thank me for expanding your knowledge base. If I get bored I'll dig out my reloading manuals and compare bullet weights & velocities. I assume you do understand the TANSTAAFL concept insofar as it's pretty hard to get higher MV with the same bullet weight and less chamber pressure. Of course that depends somewhat on the powder you've used, but frankly, I'm not that interested these days and if all you want to do is endanger your neighbours, you don't need to reload your own ammo. PDW The military cases are thicker than commercial and the primer is swaged. The military case holds a little less powder so the CUP (copper units of pressure) is higher with a commercial load in a mil case. I've separated cases with occurs just above the base. It can be a crack to complete separation. I've done it in military semi autos and bolt action rifles. A modern firearm is designed to blow the separation away from the face. The gun does not blow up. You'll notice the headstamp flattened out and the primer pocket flattened. With rifle rounds, you can't double charge the load as in pistols so the chances of ever loading something that can burst a receiver is almost non existent. Glory! |
#6
![]()
posted to alt.sailing.asa
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
In article , Bob Crantz
wrote: "Peter Wiley" wrote in message . .. Shrug. My memory is out about the chambers & pressures, but I'm right about the case sizes. I've reloaded *heaps* of boxer primed ex military brass, used to buy it for peanuts at gun shows, fired it interchangeably with commercial brass in both a Rem 700 Varmint and a Ruger Mini-14. However, it's quite safe to fire 223 Rem ammo in a military 5.56 NATO chamber. Ruger Mini-14's have been chambered for both and I used to use one regularly with ex mil 5.56 NATO ammo without any noticeable ill effects. Maybe because the Rem 700 was a high quality rifle not a cheap POS. http://www.thegunzone.com/556v223.html has some interesting comments. The most likely effect of an over pressure round is a backed out primer and a possibly binding action, not a rifle going 'kaboom and messing up your face'. Not desirable, but not the end of the world either. Ask any serious handloader who's worked up 'hot' loads a bit at a time. Still, you learn something new every day, hey? No need to thank me for expanding your knowledge base. If I get bored I'll dig out my reloading manuals and compare bullet weights & velocities. I assume you do understand the TANSTAAFL concept insofar as it's pretty hard to get higher MV with the same bullet weight and less chamber pressure. Of course that depends somewhat on the powder you've used, but frankly, I'm not that interested these days and if all you want to do is endanger your neighbours, you don't need to reload your own ammo. PDW The military cases are thicker than commercial and the primer is swaged. Yep. I used to use a primer pocket reamer to remove the crimp after punching out the primer. The military case holds a little less powder so the CUP (copper units of pressure) is higher with a commercial load in a mil case. I've separated cases with occurs just above the base. It can be a crack to complete separation. I've done it in military semi autos and bolt action rifles. Never had this happen with 5.56, have seen it happen with .243 reloads. I put it down to having my full length sizing die set too fine and moving the case shoulder back a bit. A modern firearm is designed to blow the separation away from the face. The gun does not blow up. You'll notice the headstamp flattened out and the primer pocket flattened. With rifle rounds, you can't double charge the load as in pistols so the chances of ever loading something that can burst a receiver is almost non existent. IIRC I was using a compressed load of WW 748 - *no* chance of a double load at all. OTOH using Unique in 44 Mag cases it was certainly possible. Never happened to me tho. PDW |
#7
![]()
posted to alt.sailing.asa
|
|||
|
|||
![]() "Peter Wiley" wrote in message . .. In article , Bob Crantz wrote: "Peter Wiley" wrote in message . .. Shrug. My memory is out about the chambers & pressures, but I'm right about the case sizes. I've reloaded *heaps* of boxer primed ex military brass, used to buy it for peanuts at gun shows, fired it interchangeably with commercial brass in both a Rem 700 Varmint and a Ruger Mini-14. However, it's quite safe to fire 223 Rem ammo in a military 5.56 NATO chamber. Ruger Mini-14's have been chambered for both and I used to use one regularly with ex mil 5.56 NATO ammo without any noticeable ill effects. Maybe because the Rem 700 was a high quality rifle not a cheap POS. http://www.thegunzone.com/556v223.html has some interesting comments. The most likely effect of an over pressure round is a backed out primer and a possibly binding action, not a rifle going 'kaboom and messing up your face'. Not desirable, but not the end of the world either. Ask any serious handloader who's worked up 'hot' loads a bit at a time. Still, you learn something new every day, hey? No need to thank me for expanding your knowledge base. If I get bored I'll dig out my reloading manuals and compare bullet weights & velocities. I assume you do understand the TANSTAAFL concept insofar as it's pretty hard to get higher MV with the same bullet weight and less chamber pressure. Of course that depends somewhat on the powder you've used, but frankly, I'm not that interested these days and if all you want to do is endanger your neighbours, you don't need to reload your own ammo. PDW The military cases are thicker than commercial and the primer is swaged. Yep. I used to use a primer pocket reamer to remove the crimp after punching out the primer. The military case holds a little less powder so the CUP (copper units of pressure) is higher with a commercial load in a mil case. I've separated cases with occurs just above the base. It can be a crack to complete separation. I've done it in military semi autos and bolt action rifles. Never had this happen with 5.56, have seen it happen with .243 reloads. I put it down to having my full length sizing die set too fine and moving the case shoulder back a bit. It happens more often after 5 or so reloads. If the case is too long it will happen too. I trim the cases with each reload and use a go/no go gauge each time. A modern firearm is designed to blow the separation away from the face. The gun does not blow up. You'll notice the headstamp flattened out and the primer pocket flattened. With rifle rounds, you can't double charge the load as in pistols so the chances of ever loading something that can burst a receiver is almost non existent. IIRC I was using a compressed load of WW 748 - *no* chance of a double load at all. I use BLC-2. I've used 4046, 4350, and a few others. The BLC-2 does 7.62 and 5.56 ok. OTOH using Unique in 44 Mag cases it was certainly possible. Never happened to me tho. PDW |
#8
![]()
posted to alt.sailing.asa
|
|||
|
|||
![]() "Peter Wiley" wrote in message . .. In article .com, Ringmaster wrote: My first plan would also be to get out of town. But remember I said a SHTF condition. Shotgun would be to unwieldy inside of a house. Cut the barrel off and that's a problem with the law. AR15 packs plenty of punch if you are using 65 or 75 gr ammo. Normal is 45 or 55 gr. Also most AR15s shoot 5.56 which is harder hitting than 223. There's enough dead Iraqs to prove the AR is a good enough weapon. Do everyone a favour. DO NOT own a gun until you learn something (more) about them. 1. Using a rifle inside a house is plain stupid. A short barrelled shotgun is far more useful. 2. Using heavy FMJ bullets is also stupid. Use hollowpoints or soft nose rounds. The object is to transfer the kinetic energy into the target, not the wall, next house, etc etc. 3. There is NO DIFFERENCE between 5.56 NATO and .223 except the labels on the boxes. Go look up the SAAMI ammo spec if you don't believe me. I could dig out my reloading manuals and quote loads, bullet weights etc but frankly, I don't give a damn. I do thank my situation tho, which is not having you for a next door neighbour. PDW Don't forget bullet stability as a function twist rate and bullet weight for the 5.56. Amen! |
#9
![]()
posted to alt.sailing.asa
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
In article , Bob Crantz
wrote: "Peter Wiley" wrote in message . .. In article .com, Ringmaster wrote: My first plan would also be to get out of town. But remember I said a SHTF condition. Shotgun would be to unwieldy inside of a house. Cut the barrel off and that's a problem with the law. AR15 packs plenty of punch if you are using 65 or 75 gr ammo. Normal is 45 or 55 gr. Also most AR15s shoot 5.56 which is harder hitting than 223. There's enough dead Iraqs to prove the AR is a good enough weapon. Do everyone a favour. DO NOT own a gun until you learn something (more) about them. 1. Using a rifle inside a house is plain stupid. A short barrelled shotgun is far more useful. 2. Using heavy FMJ bullets is also stupid. Use hollowpoints or soft nose rounds. The object is to transfer the kinetic energy into the target, not the wall, next house, etc etc. 3. There is NO DIFFERENCE between 5.56 NATO and .223 except the labels on the boxes. Go look up the SAAMI ammo spec if you don't believe me. I could dig out my reloading manuals and quote loads, bullet weights etc but frankly, I don't give a damn. I do thank my situation tho, which is not having you for a next door neighbour. PDW Don't forget bullet stability as a function twist rate and bullet weight for the 5.56. Yeah but not real relevant at sub-50m ranges AFAIK. And Vito's right, if you start popping bad guys further away than that, it's going to be real difficult explaining it to the cops as self defence. PDW |
#10
![]()
posted to alt.sailing.asa
|
|||
|
|||
![]() "Peter Wiley" wrote in message . .. In article , Bob Crantz wrote: "Peter Wiley" wrote in message . .. In article .com, Ringmaster wrote: My first plan would also be to get out of town. But remember I said a SHTF condition. Shotgun would be to unwieldy inside of a house. Cut the barrel off and that's a problem with the law. AR15 packs plenty of punch if you are using 65 or 75 gr ammo. Normal is 45 or 55 gr. Also most AR15s shoot 5.56 which is harder hitting than 223. There's enough dead Iraqs to prove the AR is a good enough weapon. Do everyone a favour. DO NOT own a gun until you learn something (more) about them. 1. Using a rifle inside a house is plain stupid. A short barrelled shotgun is far more useful. 2. Using heavy FMJ bullets is also stupid. Use hollowpoints or soft nose rounds. The object is to transfer the kinetic energy into the target, not the wall, next house, etc etc. 3. There is NO DIFFERENCE between 5.56 NATO and .223 except the labels on the boxes. Go look up the SAAMI ammo spec if you don't believe me. I could dig out my reloading manuals and quote loads, bullet weights etc but frankly, I don't give a damn. I do thank my situation tho, which is not having you for a next door neighbour. PDW Don't forget bullet stability as a function twist rate and bullet weight for the 5.56. Yeah but not real relevant at sub-50m ranges AFAIK. And Vito's right, if you start popping bad guys further away than that, it's going to be real difficult explaining it to the cops as self defence. PDW I wouldn't use a .223 for close in shooting people in a populated setting. I'd use a 38 or 9 mm. |
|
Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
Display Modes | |
|
|
![]() |
||||
Thread | Forum | |||
A day at the (log) races | General | |||
How to get experience so that I can escape? | Cruising | |||
A Recreational Boating Message | General | |||
A Recreational Boating Message | General |