Heat Treating???

Well back in the old days there was this ol man who buildt many a 62
fter in his back yard on the Chesepeake Bay. All his hulls are fair and
hand nibbed using a rose torch and nibbing bars. Most sleek steel hulls
you have ever seen. The full keel curved to meet the fairest hull not a
square exposed weld on the hull. Seemed it was a hobby and he buildt
6-7 of em.

I used truckbed liner as non-skid. When exposed to hard traffic and UV
it becomes polished and slippery and needs re-coating in 3 yrs. I like
the stuff but it's expensive Like 400 for me do do a small path and
spot near the masts. I used Duraback(sp??) brand name. MIL Spec
approved non-skid now. On a new build inside any good epoxy is great if
properly applied! I do not like epoxy that is exposed to UV. It is
stronger and more chip resistant but fades , streaks and needs to be
re-coated more often than a good oil base. I use epoxy as a barrier
under the antifoulant. If I had a new bare hull Id met-coat the whole
thing inside and out. Thats spraying a molten hot zinc on. Thats how
they coat the offshore platforms before painting. It's the very best
for steel.

Joe

Joe wrote:
Heat Treating???

Well back in the old days there was this ol man who buildt many a 62
fter in his back yard on the Chesepeake Bay. All his hulls are fair and
hand nibbed using a rose torch and nibbing bars.

Hmm, I don't think a cutting torch qualifies as heat
treating... but if you want I'll check with SAE...

... Most sleek steel hulls
you have ever seen.

Sleeker than Navy destroyers?


I used truckbed liner as non-skid. When exposed to hard traffic and UV
it becomes polished and slippery and needs re-coating in 3 yrs. I like
the stuff but it's expensive Like 400 for me do do a small path and
spot near the masts. I used Duraback(sp??) brand name. MIL Spec
approved non-skid now.

Sounds expensive. I spent far less than that on the whole of
our new deck, which is fiberglass cloth & LPU.

... On a new build inside any good epoxy is great if
properly applied! I do not like epoxy that is exposed to UV. It is
stronger and more chip resistant but fades , streaks and needs to be
re-coated more often than a good oil base.

Yes you're right, epoxy does not stand up to UV very well.
OTOH you can paint over it with almost everything.


... If I had a new bare hull Id met-coat the whole
thing inside and out. Thats spraying a molten hot zinc on. Thats how
they coat the offshore platforms before painting. It's the very best
for steel.


Sounds like hot galvanizing. Why not just electroplate it
with zinc, or build it out of zinc in the first place? I bet
you will say "Zinc is not as strong as steel" but it would
be if you made it thicker... it would be heavier but so
what, if you wanted a light weight boat you wouldn't have it
made of steel in the first place.

DSK
Joe

Sounds like hot galvanizing. Why not just electroplate it
with zinc, or build it out of zinc in the first place? I bet
you will say "Zinc is not as strong as steel" but it would
be if you made it thicker... it would be heavier but so
what, if you wanted a light weight boat you wouldn't have it
made of steel in the first place.

DSK


Doug,

I'm not an engineer, I just saw what people who could afford to do it
right did. And I saw it endure harsh abuse in an extreme salt water
application. Many steel shrimpers now met coat.
You can beat the snot out of met coat with a 10lb sledge and never
cause a rust streak.

Joe