Have you ever had any problems with a thermocoupler on your force 10?

My broiler keeps shutting down. Maybe just a stuck electromagnet???
Do you know what voltage they are suppose to make so I can check it out
with a meter?

Thanks

Joe

"Joe" wrote in message
ups.com...
Have you ever had any problems with a thermocoupler on your force 10?

My broiler keeps shutting down. Maybe just a stuck electromagnet???
Do you know what voltage they are suppose to make so I can check it out
with a meter?

Joe,
If memory serves me correctly, a thermocouple with no load should read about
25 millivolts. If you have the screw-in adapter that allows you to check
voltage while under a load, it should be between 10 and 15 mV. Many years
ago I worked on thermocouple systems, and did a test we called "listening
for thud" Place an inline voltage access adapter in the circuit and test
thermocouple output voltage under a load. While the pilot is operating
normally, blow out the flame. Place a screw driver or other "listening"
device against the gas valve and the other end against your ear. When the
pilot valve closes, you'll hear a "thud", which is the solenoid losing its
ability to hold back the force of the spring (i.e., the pilot gas valve
closes). Thud shouldn't happen above 15-17 millivolts. If it does, and you
have clean and tight electrical connection, replace the valve. If the
voltage is low or below 10 while under a load, replace the thermocouple.
This assumes that the pilot flame is adjusted properly and hitting the tip
(about 1/3 of) the thermocouple.

If you don't have the adapter, but you do have a good millivolt meter, then
see what the voltage output is with the electrical end of the thermocouple
disconnected. It's not as conclusive as testing under a load, but it will
probably tell you what you need to know.

If you don't have a good meter, thermocouples are fairly inexpensive and it
won't hurt to replace it as your test.

Scout

Scout,

Joe is talking about a Force 10 broiler. I don't think there is a gas
valve in the system?? Not sure but I think it is an all Electric.

Joe; If it is all all electric, you should be able to jump the main
switch and the elements should glow. If they do, don't leave the jumper
connected or the power plugged in, It seems like there is an open in
your heating system. ( By the way;---if your system is all electric, you
probably don't have a thermocouple but a Bi-metalic Strip as a switch)
It still can be jumped. If so, it can probably be cleaned up. If it is a
Gas System, Scout has you on the right track. GOOD LUCK!

Thom'sPage

Your URL addresses aren't showing n your posts.

Scotty


"Thom Stewart" wrote in message
...
Scout,

Joe is talking about a Force 10 broiler. I don't think
there is a gas
valve in the system?? Not sure but I think it is an all
Electric.

Joe; If it is all all electric, you should be able to jump
the main
switch and the elements should glow. If they do, don't
leave the jumper
connected or the power plugged in, It seems like there is
an open in
your heating system. ( By the way;---if your system is all
electric, you
probably don't have a thermocouple but a Bi-metalic Strip
as a switch)
It still can be jumped. If so, it can probably be cleaned
up. If it is a
Gas System, Scout has you on the right track. GOOD LUCK!

Thom'sPage

Hey Thom,

It's a gas stove. I'm going to pull loose the tc from the valve and
meter it soon. It's a cool system when working properly, if the flame
is blown out then the gas is shut off. Same thing....... if a kid just
turns the knobs no gas. Safe boating is no accident!

Joe

Joe,

If you has a Ohm meter, that is all you need to chk, If you have a
connection it should work. If you have an open --- No good. Replace it.
Check the Junction Connections. Heat has a tendency to work them loose.

Thom'sPage

I'm going to pull it loose and meter it. Thanks.

The stove has no pilots, electronic spark ignition. You push in the
valve, holding the electro magnet open, when the tc heats up it holds
the magnet and you can let the valve out and adjust the flame. It may
just be crud in the system, bad connectors ect.

Yeah... I bet they do not cost that much, just a pain in the ass to
replace (I think).
I do not have a manual yet, Force 10 just said they were going to
e-mail me one for free :0)

Joe

"Joe" wrote in message
oups.com...
I'm going to pull it loose and meter it. Thanks.

The stove has no pilots, electronic spark ignition. You push in the
valve, holding the electro magnet open, when the tc heats up it holds
the magnet and you can let the valve out and adjust the flame. It may
just be crud in the system, bad connectors ect.

Yeah... I bet they do not cost that much, just a pain in the ass to
replace (I think).
I do not have a manual yet, Force 10 just said they were going to
e-mail me one for free :0)

Joe,
No pilot, I understand. FWIF, the test I described earlier is still valid
and is the method gas appliance technicians are taught to follow.

For a smaller system like your grill, the main gas valve is energized by the
thermocouple, and in the event of loss of flame, the gas valve would
(eventually) close. Thermocouples provide enough power to *hold* a magnetic
valve open, but not enough to initially *pull* it open, hence, you have push
and hold the button until the TC warms up.

Any technician worth his or her salt would also do a safety check (the thud
test). You can do this another way that is easier than the method I
described in an earlier post, provided you have proper ventilation. To check
safety, fire up the grill as you normally do. After it's burning and the TC
is working, close the manual gas valve (at the tank if need be). Make sure
the fire goes out. Turn the gas valve back on and you should hear gas
flowing at the grill because the thermocouple is still hot. The thermocouple
will cool down and you will hear the "thud" and the hissing of the gas will
stop. Then you know your safety is working. Again, do this in an open space.

I'd still do the mV test and if the thermocouple is good, keep the one they
send as a spare. Hagy was right in saying they don't often go bad, but it
does happen. Good luck with it.
Scout

Now you tell me.

All I had was a stubby screwdriver for the thud test and burned off one
side of my beard before I heard a thud. ;0)

Joe

"Joe" wrote:
Have you ever had any problems with a thermocoupler on
your force 10?

My broiler keeps shutting down. Maybe just a stuck
electromagnet???
Do you know what voltage they are suppose to make so I can
check it out
with a meter?

Wow, in 16 years I've never had one fail...knock wood! The
manual sez 1.5 millivolt. Before you tear it out make sure
your pilot flame is strong enough to warm the tc. I've had
crud from poor propane (or the jet needs a poke) block the
flame from time to time.

I just had a chunk of the broiler ceramic fall off, but it
still works fine!

Seahag