"Joe" wrote:
Thanks...1.5 millivolts is a big difference from 25 mv's.

Guess I'm going to have to get me a manual.

I got it from my manual:^)

Seahag

"Seahag" wrote in message
...

"Joe" wrote:
Thanks...1.5 millivolts is a big difference from 25 mv's.

Guess I'm going to have to get me a manual.

I got it from my manual:^)

Haggy,
r u sure that decimal is there? Not 15?
1.5 millivolts sure isn't much.
Scout

Scout;

A type "J" iron/constantan TC in a Pilot Flame will operate at about
0.5mV to 0.9mv/ 0 degrees to 800 DegreeC

It's been a lot of years since I've dialed a manual Potentiometer ( not
sure I even have the right spelling--anymore) but the book of outputs
was in very low mV. I'm not even going to mention Cold Junction
Temperature. It isn't nessary in this case.

Damn; I am getting old. Took me over a day to remember

Thom'sPage

Yeah, I'm sure.

S

"Scout" wrote in message
...
"Seahag" wrote in message
...

"Joe" wrote:
Thanks...1.5 millivolts is a big difference from 25
mv's.

Guess I'm going to have to get me a manual.

I got it from my manual:^)

Haggy,
r u sure that decimal is there? Not 15?
1.5 millivolts sure isn't much.
Scout

"Seahag" wrote in message
...

"Joe" wrote:
Thanks...1.5 millivolts is a big difference from 25 mv's.

Guess I'm going to have to get me a manual.

I got it from my manual:^)

Hagy,
I did a bit of research and got this reply from Force 10
*****************************************
Yes there was a misprint in the Old Manual that stated 1.5mV. The actual
voltage is 20mV.
Regards,
Brad Clark
Force 10 Marine Co.
tel: 604/522.0233
fax: 604/522.9608
email:
******************************************
Scout

Thats funny Scout, Force 10 just e-mailed me a manual and here is what
it says in the trouble shooting section.

When this point is heated by the burner flame, a small amount of
electricity (1.5 millivolt) is generated. This electric current flows
to the other end of the thermocouple that is tightened into the gas
valve. Here it activates an electromagnet that keeps the valve open.

Should the burner accidentally be extinguished, electricity will no
longer be generated, and the valve will be snapped back to the closed
position by a stainless steel spring.

This is normally an isolated problem, as all thermocouples and ranges
are tested at the factory. If necessary, however, remove the
thermocouple following instructions 1 through 14 for replacing the
thermocouple. Lightly sand the end that has been removed from the valve
with very fine sandpaper. Replace in the valve and test. If this does
not work the thermocouple must have failed and will have to be
replaced.

You can also test the thermocouple by removing the end from the valve.
Heat up the other end with a torch or another burner on your stove. By
using a good quality voltmeter, put one lead on the outside of the
thermocouple and the other one on the far cold end. If the thermocouple
is okay, it will show 1.5 to 2.5 millivolts on your meter.

The electromagnet (solenoid) inside the valve may have failed and will
have to be replaced.

Joe

Le's's kick Scout's ass...

S

"Joe" wrote in message
oups.com...
Thats funny Scout, Force 10 just e-mailed me a manual and
here is what
it says in the trouble shooting section.

When this point is heated by the burner flame, a small
amount of
electricity (1.5 millivolt) is generated. This electric
current flows
to the other end of the thermocouple that is tightened
into the gas
valve. Here it activates an electromagnet that keeps the
valve open.

Should the burner accidentally be extinguished,
electricity will no
longer be generated, and the valve will be snapped back to
the closed
position by a stainless steel spring.

This is normally an isolated problem, as all thermocouples
and ranges
are tested at the factory. If necessary, however, remove
the
thermocouple following instructions 1 through 14 for
replacing the
thermocouple. Lightly sand the end that has been removed
from the valve
with very fine sandpaper. Replace in the valve and test.
If this does
not work the thermocouple must have failed and will have
to be
replaced.

You can also test the thermocouple by removing the end
from the valve.
Heat up the other end with a torch or another burner on
your stove. By
using a good quality voltmeter, put one lead on the
outside of the
thermocouple and the other one on the far cold end. If the
thermocouple
is okay, it will show 1.5 to 2.5 millivolts on your meter.

The electromagnet (solenoid) inside the valve may have
failed and will
have to be replaced.

Joe

You know how it is Joe.
The technical writers aren't necessarily technicians and just didn't know.
But I've done the routine so many times that the misplaced decimal seemed to
jump out at me. Maybe no one at Force 10 noticed the misprint before, or
maybe they just figured the hell with it, it costs to much to republish the
manaul. We've just made them realize that people read and discuss.
I've gotten a lot of good information here on ASA, it's nice to be able to
give back something, even if it's just about fixing a grill.
I have to commend Brad Clark from Force 10; he got back to me within an
hour!
Scout
Brad Clark
Force 10 Marine Co.
tel: 604/522.0233
fax: 604/522.9608
email:


"Joe" wrote in message
oups.com...
Thats funny Scout, Force 10 just e-mailed me a manual and here is what
it says in the trouble shooting section.

When this point is heated by the burner flame, a small amount of
electricity (1.5 millivolt) is generated. This electric current flows
to the other end of the thermocouple that is tightened into the gas
valve. Here it activates an electromagnet that keeps the valve open.

Should the burner accidentally be extinguished, electricity will no
longer be generated, and the valve will be snapped back to the closed
position by a stainless steel spring.

This is normally an isolated problem, as all thermocouples and ranges
are tested at the factory. If necessary, however, remove the
thermocouple following instructions 1 through 14 for replacing the
thermocouple. Lightly sand the end that has been removed from the valve
with very fine sandpaper. Replace in the valve and test. If this does
not work the thermocouple must have failed and will have to be
replaced.

You can also test the thermocouple by removing the end from the valve.
Heat up the other end with a torch or another burner on your stove. By
using a good quality voltmeter, put one lead on the outside of the
thermocouple and the other one on the far cold end. If the thermocouple
is okay, it will show 1.5 to 2.5 millivolts on your meter.

The electromagnet (solenoid) inside the valve may have failed and will
have to be replaced.

Joe

Scout wrote:

You know how it is Joe.
The technical writers aren't necessarily technicians and just didn't know.
But I've done the routine so many times that the misplaced decimal seemed to
jump out at me. Maybe no one at Force 10 noticed the misprint before, or
maybe they just figured the hell with it, it costs to much to republish the
manaul. We've just made them realize that people read and discuss.
I've gotten a lot of good information here on ASA, it's nice to be able to
give back something, even if it's just about fixing a grill.

It may not be a misprint, at room temp the output from a type J
thermocouple (Fe-Constantan) will be around 1.5 mV, at 300C you get
20mV. (I just looked it up in my Omega Thermocouple Reference.)

Cheers
Marty

Marty,
You don't have to rely on my experience. I contacted Force 10 and they
say it's a misprint.
Scout