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Hey Seahag...little help in the galley please
"Seahag" wrote in message
... "Joe" wrote: Thanks...1.5 millivolts is a big difference from 25 mv's. Guess I'm going to have to get me a manual. I got it from my manual:^) Hagy, I did a bit of research and got this reply from Force 10 ***************************************** Yes there was a misprint in the Old Manual that stated 1.5mV. The actual voltage is 20mV. Regards, Brad Clark Force 10 Marine Co. tel: 604/522.0233 fax: 604/522.9608 email: ****************************************** Scout |
Hey Seahag...little help in the galley please
Scout;
A type "J" iron/constantan TC in a Pilot Flame will operate at about 0.5mV to 0.9mv/ 0 degrees to 800 DegreeC It's been a lot of years since I've dialed a manual Potentiometer ( not sure I even have the right spelling--anymore) but the book of outputs was in very low mV. I'm not even going to mention Cold Junction Temperature. It isn't nessary in this case. Damn; I am getting old. Took me over a day to remember Thom'sPage |
Hey Seahag...little help in the galley please
Thats funny Scout, Force 10 just e-mailed me a manual and here is what
it says in the trouble shooting section. When this point is heated by the burner flame, a small amount of electricity (1.5 millivolt) is generated. This electric current flows to the other end of the thermocouple that is tightened into the gas valve. Here it activates an electromagnet that keeps the valve open. Should the burner accidentally be extinguished, electricity will no longer be generated, and the valve will be snapped back to the closed position by a stainless steel spring. This is normally an isolated problem, as all thermocouples and ranges are tested at the factory. If necessary, however, remove the thermocouple following instructions 1 through 14 for replacing the thermocouple. Lightly sand the end that has been removed from the valve with very fine sandpaper. Replace in the valve and test. If this does not work the thermocouple must have failed and will have to be replaced. You can also test the thermocouple by removing the end from the valve. Heat up the other end with a torch or another burner on your stove. By using a good quality voltmeter, put one lead on the outside of the thermocouple and the other one on the far cold end. If the thermocouple is okay, it will show 1.5 to 2.5 millivolts on your meter. The electromagnet (solenoid) inside the valve may have failed and will have to be replaced. Joe |
Hey Seahag...little help in the galley please
Joe,
If you has a Ohm meter, that is all you need to chk, If you have a connection it should work. If you have an open --- No good. Replace it. Check the Junction Connections. Heat has a tendency to work them loose. Thom'sPage |
Hey Seahag...little help in the galley please
Yeah, I'm sure.
S "Scout" wrote in message ... "Seahag" wrote in message ... "Joe" wrote: Thanks...1.5 millivolts is a big difference from 25 mv's. Guess I'm going to have to get me a manual. I got it from my manual:^) Haggy, r u sure that decimal is there? Not 15? 1.5 millivolts sure isn't much. Scout |
Hey Seahag...little help in the galley please
Those *******s!
Seahag "Scout" wrote in message ... "Seahag" wrote in message ... "Joe" wrote: Thanks...1.5 millivolts is a big difference from 25 mv's. Guess I'm going to have to get me a manual. I got it from my manual:^) Hagy, I did a bit of research and got this reply from Force 10 ***************************************** Yes there was a misprint in the Old Manual that stated 1.5mV. The actual voltage is 20mV. Regards, Brad Clark Force 10 Marine Co. tel: 604/522.0233 fax: 604/522.9608 email: ****************************************** Scout |
Hey Seahag...little help in the galley please
Le's's kick Scout's ass...
S "Joe" wrote in message oups.com... Thats funny Scout, Force 10 just e-mailed me a manual and here is what it says in the trouble shooting section. When this point is heated by the burner flame, a small amount of electricity (1.5 millivolt) is generated. This electric current flows to the other end of the thermocouple that is tightened into the gas valve. Here it activates an electromagnet that keeps the valve open. Should the burner accidentally be extinguished, electricity will no longer be generated, and the valve will be snapped back to the closed position by a stainless steel spring. This is normally an isolated problem, as all thermocouples and ranges are tested at the factory. If necessary, however, remove the thermocouple following instructions 1 through 14 for replacing the thermocouple. Lightly sand the end that has been removed from the valve with very fine sandpaper. Replace in the valve and test. If this does not work the thermocouple must have failed and will have to be replaced. You can also test the thermocouple by removing the end from the valve. Heat up the other end with a torch or another burner on your stove. By using a good quality voltmeter, put one lead on the outside of the thermocouple and the other one on the far cold end. If the thermocouple is okay, it will show 1.5 to 2.5 millivolts on your meter. The electromagnet (solenoid) inside the valve may have failed and will have to be replaced. Joe |
Hey Seahag...little help in the galley please
Hagy,
I'm sorry to say I've spent many more years fixing gas appliances than I have sailing. I wish it were the other way 'round. Knowing a few things about thermocouples is a very small comfort. : ) Scout "Seahag" wrote in message ... Those *******s! Hagy, I did a bit of research and got this reply from Force 10 ***************************************** Yes there was a misprint in the Old Manual that stated 1.5mV. The actual voltage is 20mV. Regards, Brad Clark Force 10 Marine Co. tel: 604/522.0233 fax: 604/522.9608 email: ****************************************** Scout |
Hey Seahag...little help in the galley please
"Joe" wrote in message
oups.com... I'm going to pull it loose and meter it. Thanks. The stove has no pilots, electronic spark ignition. You push in the valve, holding the electro magnet open, when the tc heats up it holds the magnet and you can let the valve out and adjust the flame. It may just be crud in the system, bad connectors ect. Yeah... I bet they do not cost that much, just a pain in the ass to replace (I think). I do not have a manual yet, Force 10 just said they were going to e-mail me one for free :0) Joe, No pilot, I understand. FWIF, the test I described earlier is still valid and is the method gas appliance technicians are taught to follow. For a smaller system like your grill, the main gas valve is energized by the thermocouple, and in the event of loss of flame, the gas valve would (eventually) close. Thermocouples provide enough power to *hold* a magnetic valve open, but not enough to initially *pull* it open, hence, you have push and hold the button until the TC warms up. Any technician worth his or her salt would also do a safety check (the thud test). You can do this another way that is easier than the method I described in an earlier post, provided you have proper ventilation. To check safety, fire up the grill as you normally do. After it's burning and the TC is working, close the manual gas valve (at the tank if need be). Make sure the fire goes out. Turn the gas valve back on and you should hear gas flowing at the grill because the thermocouple is still hot. The thermocouple will cool down and you will hear the "thud" and the hissing of the gas will stop. Then you know your safety is working. Again, do this in an open space. I'd still do the mV test and if the thermocouple is good, keep the one they send as a spare. Hagy was right in saying they don't often go bad, but it does happen. Good luck with it. Scout |
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