Thank You.... now could you tell me the best method to remove black
mold
from the headliner in a cabin?


There are several varieties of mold that leave blackish marks. I've had
good luck using Clorox spray with bleach, BUT protect any other areas
as the bleach can leave light marks. If your headliner is fabric and
white you can try the same approach. Colored (tan) headliners are often
stained for good. Always spot test of course.

RB

Once again great advise.

I was thinking about stripping the wax from the hull and topsides and
applying a new coat of wax next year. What equipment, process and products
would you recommend for this task?

CM

"Capt. Rob" wrote in message
oups.com...
Thank You.... now could you tell me the best method to remove black
mold
from the headliner in a cabin?


There are several varieties of mold that leave blackish marks. I've had
good luck using Clorox spray with bleach, BUT protect any other areas
as the bleach can leave light marks. If your headliner is fabric and
white you can try the same approach. Colored (tan) headliners are often
stained for good. Always spot test of course.

RB

was thinking about stripping the wax from the hull and topsides and
applying a new coat of wax next year. What equipment, process and
products
would you recommend for this task?

Well there are several marine wax removers you can buy and some folks
buy acetones and laquer thinners and the like to get their hulls
prepped. The condition of your hull is a factor. Is it painted? If so I
can't advise you properly. 3M makes a range of good wax/polish
compounds that work great. Some are more aggressive for older hulls.
Since they are also compound they are single step, you really don't
have to remove the old wax as it's ground away. You'll need a damp rag
to remove the residue as you work. It's also best to test to see if you
can get by with a less aggressive level and save more gel coat
thickness. Remember how thin that coat is! Believe it or not (and some
folks here have no clue) but many yards use medium sized grinders
fitted with 3M buffing wheels to wax and polish. They get the job done
fast, BUT they can also damage a hull and it's a BACKBREAKING job to
hold the grinder up compared to lighter dedicated polishers. Still, if
you take care and focus on the job, you'll go a lot faster with a
grinder. I've been told that some grinders are too fast, but the black
& decker models we use do a good job. This sort of project really does
vary boat to boat and some folks still will take the time to hand rub
compound into their hull. Bully for them, but too tedious for me. I
have to say that wax/polish is about the worst job there is. I now let
my yard do it for me with excellent results that last the whole season.
A waxed boat is slower! About a zillion people have a gazillion ideas
on how to best wax a boat...and most seem to work equally well.

RB

Nobody that knows anything uses a grinder to polish gelcoat. Use a
real electric polisher. It spins at the right speed and won't ruin
gelcoat or burn wax. Jeeeezzzze what an idiot.

Please.... let us refrain from questioning the advise of experts. If Bob
says a grinder will work then I'm certain it will.....

CM

"rgnmstr" wrote in message
oups.com...
Nobody that knows anything uses a grinder to polish gelcoat. Use a
real electric polisher. It spins at the right speed and won't ruin
gelcoat or burn wax. Jeeeezzzze what an idiot.

Nobody that knows anything uses a grinder to polish gelcoat. Use a
real electric polisher. It spins at the right speed and won't ruin
gelcoat or burn wax. Jeeeezzzze what an idiot.


I've been working with more than 15 yards over the last 4 years and
they all use grinders. An electric polisher is a toy for cars and even
the heavy duty models are too slow for a business that's trying to
detail a dozen boats per day. Try calling Consolidated shipyard and see
what they use.
Loco, you really don't know much about the business of boats.

RB

On 29 Oct 2005 03:42:10 -0700, "Capt. Rob" wrote:

Nobody that knows anything uses a grinder to polish gelcoat. Use a
real electric polisher. It spins at the right speed and won't ruin
gelcoat or burn wax. Jeeeezzzze what an idiot.


I've been working with more than 15 yards over the last 4 years and
they all use grinders. An electric polisher is a toy for cars and even
the heavy duty models are too slow for a business that's trying to
detail a dozen boats per day. Try calling Consolidated shipyard and see
what they use.
Loco, you really don't know much about the business of boats.

RB


Well now I know he's nuts. Having both made and used grinders,
polishiers, sanders, I more than doubt that any one with good sense
would use a grinder to polish a boat. Too heavy, too aggresive,
single speed, non double acting, non random orbit, no bale handle.
Especially that B & D garbage.


Maybe it has to do with the requirement for good sense?

Frank

Excellent Advise..... as usual!

I was considering placing a "waterline" groove just below my bootstripe to
facilitate maintaining an even line along the antifouling paint. I have seen
people place a small routered half round strike along the waterline. Do you
recommend this? What would be the best method to utilize? I have heard that
motorized router bits suggested . Can you give us any suggestions? Would a
water level work to mark the line?

CM

"Capt. Rob" wrote in message
oups.com...
was thinking about stripping the wax from the hull and topsides and
applying a new coat of wax next year. What equipment, process and
products
would you recommend for this task?

Well there are several marine wax removers you can buy and some folks
buy acetones and laquer thinners and the like to get their hulls
prepped. The condition of your hull is a factor. Is it painted? If so I
can't advise you properly. 3M makes a range of good wax/polish
compounds that work great. Some are more aggressive for older hulls.
Since they are also compound they are single step, you really don't
have to remove the old wax as it's ground away. You'll need a damp rag
to remove the residue as you work. It's also best to test to see if you
can get by with a less aggressive level and save more gel coat
thickness. Remember how thin that coat is! Believe it or not (and some
folks here have no clue) but many yards use medium sized grinders
fitted with 3M buffing wheels to wax and polish. They get the job done
fast, BUT they can also damage a hull and it's a BACKBREAKING job to
hold the grinder up compared to lighter dedicated polishers. Still, if
you take care and focus on the job, you'll go a lot faster with a
grinder. I've been told that some grinders are too fast, but the black
& decker models we use do a good job. This sort of project really does
vary boat to boat and some folks still will take the time to hand rub
compound into their hull. Bully for them, but too tedious for me. I
have to say that wax/polish is about the worst job there is. I now let
my yard do it for me with excellent results that last the whole season.
A waxed boat is slower! About a zillion people have a gazillion ideas
on how to best wax a boat...and most seem to work equally well.

RB

What would be the best method to utilize? I have heard that
motorized router bits suggested


Never heard of motorized router bits. And I would never alter the hull
form in such a fashion. Tape off a proper line and be happy with that.

RB

What would be the best method to utilize? I have heard that
motorized router bits suggested


Never heard of motorized router bits. And I would never alter the hull
form in such a fashion. Tape off a proper line and be happy with that.

RB