I'd like to thank everybody who joined in this SAILING topic!

Thom Stewart wrote:
For what's it worth; "Easy to handle"
It's a boat that is responsive to the Helm but not in need of constant
helming

Good point. I'm going to bring in Peter's statements below.

... A boat that will
stand up to a stiff breeze but not be a slug in a light breeze and
doesn't need constant sail changes.

Or at least have a headsail or mainsail reefing system that can be
operated without excessinve crew effort.

... Last but not least, it should be
comfortable for the occupants, whether a day sailor or a cruiser.

I think that's a very good point and (as you mention) very subjective.
If a boat make you sore or tired then it's going to be difficult to
handle properly at the end of the day.


Flying Tadpole wrote:
THis all sounds like Lady Kate, but I'm sure she wasn't the boat any of
you had in mind...

In mind, yes. In hand, no.
IMHO a lot of Phil Bolger's designs are wonderfully practical. And not
just his box boats!



Aniculapeter wrote:
"Easy to handle" depends on the context. To me, the most interesting context
is long-term, short-handed cruising.

Yes, probably true for most people... but the same things apply to
weekending.

... Here is a few things that I think is
important:

Directional stability.
That means no fin-keeler with spade rudder.

Why not? If properly designed & strongly built, such a configuration is
very effectively sailed by autopilot or with helm locked.

..... Long keel with cutaway forefoot)
is a possibility but I think I would prefer a long fin and a skeg-hung
rudder. I also find use of a swing-keel or dagger-board between the keel and
the rudder an interesting concept, but I doubt that the speed-gains can
justify the added complexity.

It's not going to add speed, just drag. Will make it a lot easier to
steer. A boat with a very large centerboard like some of the old CCC
designs, can be balanced by swing the board up and aft. Good for heavy
weather and off-wind sailing.



Dependable even if overpowered
No beamy boats that will luff uncontrollable if overpowered. A fairly narrow
boat with a healthy ballast will just heel over and maybe drift a bit more
to
lee ward, but will not broach, tack or change direction.

I think that depends very much on the design, rig & rudder in
particular. The reason most beamy boats "spin out" when heeled is that
they lift the rudder out. This can be corrected a number of ways, with
rig balance or with twin rudders. Not that I'm wildly in favor of pudgy
boats, mind you...


Must be steerable by windvane.
that means a "non-surfer" since no automatic steering device can steer a
surfing boat.

Or a fast boat

No big headsails.

Agreed... or at least, not big ones that block the helmsman's vision or
are allmost impossible to tack...

I think my preferences would be a fractional rigged sloop up to maybe 7 tons
or a cutter from 6 to 10 tons. (The reason I prefer a one mast rig is
because I am after all a bit of a speed-freak).

Then why the windvane? A windvane will be totally unable to handle a
boat that can generate significant apparent wind.


Easy ways to adjust sailarea.
This have to be figured out specifically for the individual boat, but in
general a split sailarea is preferable. Maybe there is some good arguments
for
a ketch but I for boats under 40' I think that one mast is enough.


Agreed... but a schooner is the classy way to go!

For a boat bigger than 30' you need an windlass for the anchor, and a manual
windlass is not "easy to handle".


I'm open minded about that... although I am currently installing an
electric vertical windlass myself...


Size
I suppose that it is possible to build big boats with all kinds of automatic
gear that can be handled fairly easy by a small crew, but for me, sailing
should be kept simple and affordable, so for me an easily handled boat
would mean a boat that is easily handled with simple means.

And of course, a practical maintenance schedule. Gimmicks have gotten
marvelously reliable over the past decade, but we are still far away
from the maintenance free boat.

... I will accept a
windlass a few manual winches, an auxiliary engine and of course a windvane,
but no bowthrusters, hydraulic winches or other fancy stuff. That means
that a boat should not be bigger than 10 tons (or maybe around 40 ').
If we are talking about a long-term cruiser, then of course you want
living-space, even if short-handed, so I think that the ideal compromise
would be something like a 38' long 10' wide boat with a displacement around
6 tons in light condition with maybe 50% in the keel


Did you see the thread on ballast ratios & different types of stability?
IMHO a high ballast ratio is one of the best things for a boat (other
than racing dinghies like say a 470), for a number of reasons.

Fresh Breezes- Doug King