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On Tue, 08 Mar 2005 14:53:16 GMT, "Capt. Mooron"
wrote this crap: Since it's approaching... well okay it's at least a month and a half away for some of us... time to consider what approach to use on the vessel's wood trim this year, I thought I would start the annual ASA wood treatment thread. There are those who use Varnish, those who use Cetol, those who use Tung Oil and some of you that use your own secret recipe. What is your preferred method and how do you apply the finish? I rub my woman's 36DD breasts with oil, then I get my wood out, and Oh crap! Jon-boy is going to follow up with some girlie post. Pathetic Earthlings! No one can save you now! |
On Tue, 8 Mar 2005 13:53:44 -0500, Capt. Neal®
wrote this crap: Dear Group, Please allow me to express my opinion of the fanatic care and feeding of trim wood on sailboats. 1) Those who spend time, effort and dollars on so-called 'brightwork' are more interested in showing than going. DSK is a good example of this stupidity with his bragging about all the time his wife spends on the varnishing. Please note that this maintenance time is down-time. DSK is lying again, as usual. Pathetic Earthlings! No one can save you now! |
We varnsih...seven-right coats worth...and every 4-5 years the whole shebang
gets sanded all the way down and we start over again...we use Z-Spar 2015 (flagship)... "Capt. Mooron" wrote in message news:w%iXd.9210$ZO2.3913@edtnps84... Since it's approaching... well okay it's at least a month and a half away for some of us... time to consider what approach to use on the vessel's wood trim this year, I thought I would start the annual ASA wood treatment thread. There are those who use Varnish, those who use Cetol, those who use Tung Oil and some of you that use your own secret recipe. What is your preferred method and how do you apply the finish? To start of... I have used varnish, and wasn't convinced that the work to produce such luster was worth the effort of application for one season of duration. I've even tried cetol and was not impressed with the results on both occasions. For years I simply used Teak Oil or Tung Oil and kept a kit aboard for touch ups as required. It's easy to apply and clean up is no problem. The woodwork shows a nice colour and retains it's texture. Last season I applied teak oil and let it dry before applying a coat of clear Behr deck waterproofing, UV inhibitor sealant. It seemed to work since I had no reason to reapply further teak oil all season. Yet this year I noticed some greying of the teak... so here I go again. What should I use this year? Should I just give up and try another Varnish or let the teak go grey? CM |
ALl in all, a lovely testimony from who's boat was so cheap the manufacturer
cut corners by using plastic trim and moldings rather than teak to trim it out...But what can we expect from someone who would re-upholster in such a lubberly color as mauve? "Capt. Neal®" wrote in message ... Dear Group, Please allow me to express my opinion of the fanatic care and feeding of trim wood on sailboats. 1) Those who spend time, effort and dollars on so-called 'brightwork' are more interested in showing than going. DSK is a good example of this stupidity with his bragging about all the time his wife spends on the varnishing. Please note that this maintenance time is down-time. 2) If the wood is functional, such as the spreaders on Joe's fine, blue-water, steel vessel, then, by all means, do take care of this functional wood in any manner which preserves it the best. If you like the way several coats of varnish looks and don't mind the extra work then use varnish. On the other hand, if you are more interested in longevity and protection without the constant work then use a quality enamel paint to cover and seal the wood. 3) Teak trim on a sailboat is just that - trim. It is unnecessary and just makes it so you need to spend more time maintaining and less time sailing (or motoring as in the case of DSK). Fools like Doug would rather walk up and down a dock and criticize the brightwork on other boats and compare it to theirs than spend time actually using their boats for the intended purpose which is NOT a constant, futile, never-ending cycle of brightwork maintenance. Even allowing his wife to do the brightwork when Doug states he would rather paint the wood shows he is no man. 4) Real sailors replace all wood trim with plastic or they prepare the wood carefully one time and then paint it with a quality paint (or they remove it). If the painted wood is in an area where it can wear (such as foot traffic, line chafe, etc.), then the wood should be protected with steel. (Joe is smarter than most of you, face it!) Please check out how I painted and protected the two pieces of teak that remained on the deck of my fine vessel. Click on the following link and scroll down toward the middle where a photo of the companionway hatch is shown (sstrim.jpg) and you'll note the teak is painted white (with Petit Easypoxy) and protected from foot traffic by a polished stainless steel strake. http://captneal.homestead.com/littleperfections.html 5) I have tossed the constantly-rotting, teak, cockpit locker covers and replaced them with maintenance-free plastic. http://captneal.homestead.com/bristol.html I will replace the teak-faced, plywood, companionway washboards with the same white plastic (Star Board) as soon as they rot out more and become unserviceable. I will never spend one more dollar or one more minute of my sailing time varnishing exterior wood. It is a never-ending waste of time and money. People who spend any time, whatsoever, doing their "brightwork" are not sailors but pretenders who show off their brightwork because they cannot show-off their sailing skills because they don't have the time to develop any. I find people who have their priorities all wrong like this totally boring and disgusting. They impress me about as much as some conceited, fat fool wearing a bunch of heavy, gold chains around his neck and they share similar personality traits - all show and no go! I hope this helps put things in the proper perspective. Respectfully, Capt. Neal ~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things that you didn't do than by the ones you did do. So throw off the bowlines. Sail away from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream. Discover. -- Mark Twain "Capt. Mooron" wrote in message news:w%iXd.9210$ZO2.3913@edtnps84... Since it's approaching... well okay it's at least a month and a half away for some of us... time to consider what approach to use on the vessel's wood trim this year, I thought I would start the annual ASA wood treatment thread. There are those who use Varnish, those who use Cetol, those who use Tung Oil and some of you that use your own secret recipe. What is your preferred method and how do you apply the finish? To start of... I have used varnish, and wasn't convinced that the work to produce such luster was worth the effort of application for one season of duration. I've even tried cetol and was not impressed with the results on both occasions. For years I simply used Teak Oil or Tung Oil and kept a kit aboard for touch ups as required. It's easy to apply and clean up is no problem. The woodwork shows a nice colour and retains it's texture. Last season I applied teak oil and let it dry before applying a coat of clear Behr deck waterproofing, UV inhibitor sealant. It seemed to work since I had no reason to reapply further teak oil all season. Yet this year I noticed some greying of the teak... so here I go again. What should I use this year? Should I just give up and try another Varnish or let the teak go grey? CM |
Must be nice when it's super humid and someone sits on it with white
shorts... "John Cairns" wrote in message om... Heard a new one in Virgin Gorda, gentleman was applying stain only. John Cairns "Capt. Mooron" wrote in message news:w%iXd.9210$ZO2.3913@edtnps84... Since it's approaching... well okay it's at least a month and a half away for some of us... time to consider what approach to use on the vessel's wood trim this year, I thought I would start the annual ASA wood treatment thread. There are those who use Varnish, those who use Cetol, those who use Tung Oil and some of you that use your own secret recipe. What is your preferred method and how do you apply the finish? To start of... I have used varnish, and wasn't convinced that the work to produce such luster was worth the effort of application for one season of duration. I've even tried cetol and was not impressed with the results on both occasions. For years I simply used Teak Oil or Tung Oil and kept a kit aboard for touch ups as required. It's easy to apply and clean up is no problem. The woodwork shows a nice colour and retains it's texture. Last season I applied teak oil and let it dry before applying a coat of clear Behr deck waterproofing, UV inhibitor sealant. It seemed to work since I had no reason to reapply further teak oil all season. Yet this year I noticed some greying of the teak... so here I go again. What should I use this year? Should I just give up and try another Varnish or let the teak go grey? CM |
The gentleman claimed it lasted as long as varnish and of course is much
easier to apply. John Cairns "katysails" wrote in message ... Must be nice when it's super humid and someone sits on it with white shorts... "John Cairns" wrote in message om... Heard a new one in Virgin Gorda, gentleman was applying stain only. John Cairns "Capt. Mooron" wrote in message news:w%iXd.9210$ZO2.3913@edtnps84... Since it's approaching... well okay it's at least a month and a half away for some of us... time to consider what approach to use on the vessel's wood trim this year, I thought I would start the annual ASA wood treatment thread. There are those who use Varnish, those who use Cetol, those who use Tung Oil and some of you that use your own secret recipe. What is your preferred method and how do you apply the finish? To start of... I have used varnish, and wasn't convinced that the work to produce such luster was worth the effort of application for one season of duration. I've even tried cetol and was not impressed with the results on both occasions. For years I simply used Teak Oil or Tung Oil and kept a kit aboard for touch ups as required. It's easy to apply and clean up is no problem. The woodwork shows a nice colour and retains it's texture. Last season I applied teak oil and let it dry before applying a coat of clear Behr deck waterproofing, UV inhibitor sealant. It seemed to work since I had no reason to reapply further teak oil all season. Yet this year I noticed some greying of the teak... so here I go again. What should I use this year? Should I just give up and try another Varnish or let the teak go grey? CM |
"Capt. Mooron" wrote in message Since it's approaching... well okay it's at least a month and a half away for some of us... time to consider what approach to use on the vessel's wood trim this year, I thought I would start the annual ASA wood treatment thread. There are those who use Varnish, those who use Cetol, those who use Tung Oil and some of you that use your own secret recipe. What is your preferred method and how do you apply the finish? To start of... I have used varnish, and wasn't convinced that the work to produce such luster was worth the effort of application for one season of duration. I've even tried cetol and was not impressed with the results on both occasions. For years I simply used Teak Oil or Tung Oil and kept a kit aboard for touch ups as required. It's easy to apply and clean up is no problem. The woodwork shows a nice colour and retains it's texture. Last season I applied teak oil and let it dry before applying a coat of clear Behr deck waterproofing, UV inhibitor sealant. It seemed to work since I had no reason to reapply further teak oil all season. Yet this year I noticed some greying of the teak... so here I go again. What should I use this year? Should I just give up and try another Varnish or let the teak go grey? You're facing the age-old quandary, Cappy: how to get the appearance of a multi-coat, hand-rubbed varnish finish with the ease of Cetol or oil. Bottom line: ain't ever gonna happen. Either use varnish, or get used to something less attractive. My advice: 1) If you want a varnish finish, start with bare wood and anyone's long oil varnish thinned to 50% for penetration. Let dry, then sand smooth. Then apply three thick coats of Epifanes Gloss Wood Finish without sanding in between. No sanding is necessary, if you apply subsequent coats within 72 hours. And each coat equals two or three coats of long oil varnish. AND it is completely compatible with varnish, either long oil or urethane types. You can even alternate coats between varnish and EGWF, provided you sand after each varnish coat, but not the EGWF coats, not that anyone would actually do this. But back to the process: now allow the last (3rd) coat of EGWF to dry, sand very smooth with 150 grit, 220 grit, and 400 wet/dry, and then apply your final coat of long-oil varnish, either gloss or rubbed-effect (satin). Be sure to refresh the topcoat every year with one or two coats of varnish, or you'll lose the finish and have to start from scratch again. Or you can even use the EGWF instead of varnish--it has just as effective UV filters as most varnish, and better than some. AND be sure to repair any damage to the finish that penetrates to the wood immediately. 2. If you want a Cetol finish, sand the wood smooth, then apply three coats of Cetol Marine without sanding between. That's it, along with refreshing every years with one coat. Nothing could be easier, but don't expect a varnish-like appearance. 3. If an oil finish is acceptable, apply two or three coats of reduced tung oil (pure tung thinned to 50% with mineral spirits), and plan to re-apply every three months during the summer and at the beginning of each season. Nice appearance, but requires too much work, IMO. My pick: Cetol Marine. An acceptable finish if viewed from 10' away or farther, and it protects the wood nicely. Not for teak decks, however, unless you enjoy ice skating in the summer. Max |
"Capt. Mooron" wrote in message Stainless hand holds???... in my climate?.... no thanks! I've been aboard a friend's steel boat here in the winter.... the damn thing was insulated and it was still cold. Yeah, but think of the built-in watermaker you have during humid weather. The condensation on the interior hull topsides could probably fill a gallon bottle by noon. Max |
"DSK" wrote in message I'm confused. By "wood treatment" you mean talking about guns, right? Indeed. We haven't had a gun thread for what? Two weeks? Max |
wrote in message On Tue, 08 Mar 2005 16:06:05 GMT, "Capt. Mooron" Painting it grey is out of the question.... next you'll be suggesting to take a porch paint and brush to the deck and topsides? It seems to have worked for Neal. News to me. I was under the impression he used latex interior wall paint. Max |
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