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Woodwork....
Since it's approaching... well okay it's at least a month and a half away
for some of us... time to consider what approach to use on the vessel's wood trim this year, I thought I would start the annual ASA wood treatment thread. There are those who use Varnish, those who use Cetol, those who use Tung Oil and some of you that use your own secret recipe. What is your preferred method and how do you apply the finish? To start of... I have used varnish, and wasn't convinced that the work to produce such luster was worth the effort of application for one season of duration. I've even tried cetol and was not impressed with the results on both occasions. For years I simply used Teak Oil or Tung Oil and kept a kit aboard for touch ups as required. It's easy to apply and clean up is no problem. The woodwork shows a nice colour and retains it's texture. Last season I applied teak oil and let it dry before applying a coat of clear Behr deck waterproofing, UV inhibitor sealant. It seemed to work since I had no reason to reapply further teak oil all season. Yet this year I noticed some greying of the teak... so here I go again. What should I use this year? Should I just give up and try another Varnish or let the teak go grey? CM |
You should rip all the outside wood off so you do not have to so much
work maintaining it. Replace your hand holds and trim with Steel! That said, I have solid mahogany spreaders, I sand and varnish them about every other year. A fun summer day project. If I had teak deck Id let em go gray. I used Cetol last time I did my spreaders and the celtol seems to hold up longer than varnish, yet varnish looks way better. 8-10 coats of varnish is the way to go, wet sanding with 600 grit Norton sandpaper between every coat. My whole interior is phillipino & hondouran mahogany with 8 hand sanded coats of Epifanes Varnish, It took that many coats because I selected mahogany mith intense mudulley rays that are very porious and sucked in the varnish. Joe |
Capt. Mooron wrote:
Since it's approaching... well okay it's at least a month and a half away for some of us... time to consider what approach to use on the vessel's wood trim this year, I thought I would start the annual ASA wood treatment thread. I'm confused. By "wood treatment" you mean talking about guns, right? There are those who use Varnish, those who use Cetol, those who use Tung Oil and some of you that use your own secret recipe. What is your preferred method and how do you apply the finish? My preferred method is to let my wife do it. But if i had to, I'd sand the heck out of the wood, *clean it thoroughly* (a step that most people skimp on, or skip entirely), and apply a few coats of thinned varnish to seal it. The expenive stuff with UV inhibitors. After lightly sanding that, then I'd think about either 1- applying more varnish or 2- painting it a nice pale gray/green or buff. That cheap porch & deck paint lasts nearly forever... a boat I did this to is now in north Florida and is just starting to need some attention after about 8 years. To start of... I have used varnish, and wasn't convinced that the work to produce such luster was worth the effort of application for one season of duration. ??? You must be doing it wrong. You get so little UV up ther that varnish should last nearly forever. Is the wood clean & dry when you're applying it? ... I've even tried cetol and was not impressed with the results on both occasions. IMHO Cetol only lasts about 10% longer than varnish. It's less work but only because you need fewer coats. Also IMHO the best Cetol finish doesn't look anywhere near as good as a mediocre varnish finish, but that's a matter of taste. Frankly, unless the wood itself is very nice (good color & grain) it's not worth showing off. Most boats should have paint... there are several boats in out marina... expensive ones... where the owners waste far too much time & effort on brightwork that will only look mediocre (and that from a distant) because it simply isn't good looking wood to start with. .... Last season I applied teak oil and let it dry before applying a coat of clear Behr deck waterproofing, UV inhibitor sealant. It seemed to work since I had no reason to reapply further teak oil all season. That sounds like an interesting treatment. I might try that on one of our little boats (mahogany splashboard). ... Yet this year I noticed some greying of the teak... so here I go again. What, do you seriously expect to not have to do brightwork every year? ... What should I use this year? Should I just give up and try another Varnish or let the teak go grey? Up to you. What else ya got goin' on? It's a matter of priorities as well as personal taste & aesthetics. For example, if *I* had to do all the varnish on our tugboat, it would have been painted two years ago. I got other important stuff to do, wiring in batteries, fixing the plumbing, replacing heat exchangers, installing Webasto heater, etc etc. But letting it go grey is not such a good idea IMHO... it will be far more work to bring it back once you get tired of it looking like crap. Fresh Brushes- Doug King |
"Joe" wrote in message ups.com... You should rip all the outside wood off so you do not have to so much work maintaining it. Replace your hand holds and trim with Steel! Stainless hand holds???... in my climate?.... no thanks! I've been aboard a friend's steel boat here in the winter.... the damn thing was insulated and it was still cold. That said, I have solid mahogany spreaders, I sand and varnish them about every other year. A fun summer day project. If I had teak deck Id let em go gray. I used Cetol last time I did my spreaders and the celtol seems to hold up longer than varnish, yet varnish looks way better. 8-10 coats of varnish is the way to go, wet sanding with 600 grit Norton sandpaper between every coat. My whole interior is phillipino & hondouran mahogany with 8 hand sanded coats of Epifanes Varnish, It took that many coats because I selected mahogany mith intense mudulley rays that are very porious and sucked in the varnish. I've used a special Tung oil from Lee Valley.... it has additives that produce a hard glossy surface. I haven't tried it yet on my boat but I might this year. The stuff is expensive... $13 for 500ml. It showed excellent results on the roll-top table I refurbished a couple of years ago... but I don't know if it will last under outdoor conditions. CM |
"DSK" wrote in message I'm confused. By "wood treatment" you mean talking about guns, right? Gunstocks get abuse as well.... My preferred method is to let my wife do it. But if i had to, I'd sand the heck out of the wood, *clean it thoroughly* (a step that most people skimp on, or skip entirely), and apply a few coats of thinned varnish to seal it. The expenive stuff with UV inhibitors. After lightly sanding that, then I'd think about either 1- applying more varnish or 2- painting it a nice pale gray/green or buff. That cheap porch & deck paint lasts nearly forever... a boat I did this to is now in north Florida and is just starting to need some attention after about 8 years. Painting it grey is out of the question.... next you'll be suggesting to take a porch paint and brush to the deck and topsides? ??? You must be doing it wrong. You get so little UV up ther that varnish should last nearly forever. Is the wood clean & dry when you're applying it? Clean, sanded and silky smooth..... 600 grit for the first 4 coats and plastic abrasive for the next 4 coats. Washed and cleaned between coats after abrasive. I use a polishing compound on the final coat. Looks good for 3 months then I start noticing weathering in isolated areas. CM |
Dear Group,
Please allow me to express my opinion of the fanatic care and feeding of trim wood on sailboats. 1) Those who spend time, effort and dollars on so-called 'brightwork' are more interested in showing than going. DSK is a good example of this stupidity with his bragging about all the time his wife spends on the varnishing. Please note that this maintenance time is down-time. 2) If the wood is functional, such as the spreaders on Joe's fine, blue-water, steel vessel, then, by all means, do take care of this functional wood in any manner which preserves it the best. If you like the way several coats of varnish looks and don't mind the extra work then use varnish. On the other hand, if you are more interested in longevity and protection without the constant work then use a quality enamel paint to cover and seal the wood. 3) Teak trim on a sailboat is just that - trim. It is unnecessary and just makes it so you need to spend more time maintaining and less time sailing (or motoring as in the case of DSK). Fools like Doug would rather walk up and down a dock and criticize the brightwork on other boats and compare it to theirs than spend time actually using their boats for the intended purpose which is NOT a constant, futile, never-ending cycle of brightwork maintenance. Even allowing his wife to do the brightwork when Doug states he would rather paint the wood shows he is no man. 4) Real sailors replace all wood trim with plastic or they prepare the wood carefully one time and then paint it with a quality paint (or they remove it). If the painted wood is in an area where it can wear (such as foot traffic, line chafe, etc.), then the wood should be protected with steel. (Joe is smarter than most of you, face it!) Please check out how I painted and protected the two pieces of teak that remained on the deck of my fine vessel. Click on the following link and scroll down toward the middle where a photo of the companionway hatch is shown (sstrim.jpg) and you'll note the teak is painted white (with Petit Easypoxy) and protected from foot traffic by a polished stainless steel strake. http://captneal.homestead.com/littleperfections.html 5) I have tossed the constantly-rotting, teak, cockpit locker covers and replaced them with maintenance-free plastic. http://captneal.homestead.com/bristol.html I will replace the teak-faced, plywood, companionway washboards with the same white plastic (Star Board) as soon as they rot out more and become unserviceable. I will never spend one more dollar or one more minute of my sailing time varnishing exterior wood. It is a never-ending waste of time and money. People who spend any time, whatsoever, doing their "brightwork" are not sailors but pretenders who show off their brightwork because they cannot show-off their sailing skills because they don't have the time to develop any. I find people who have their priorities all wrong like this totally boring and disgusting. They impress me about as much as some conceited, fat fool wearing a bunch of heavy, gold chains around his neck and they share similar personality traits - all show and no go! I hope this helps put things in the proper perspective. Respectfully, Capt. Neal ~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things that you didn't do than by the ones you did do. So throw off the bowlines. Sail away from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream. Discover. -- Mark Twain "Capt. Mooron" wrote in message news:w%iXd.9210$ZO2.3913@edtnps84... Since it's approaching... well okay it's at least a month and a half away for some of us... time to consider what approach to use on the vessel's wood trim this year, I thought I would start the annual ASA wood treatment thread. There are those who use Varnish, those who use Cetol, those who use Tung Oil and some of you that use your own secret recipe. What is your preferred method and how do you apply the finish? To start of... I have used varnish, and wasn't convinced that the work to produce such luster was worth the effort of application for one season of duration. I've even tried cetol and was not impressed with the results on both occasions. For years I simply used Teak Oil or Tung Oil and kept a kit aboard for touch ups as required. It's easy to apply and clean up is no problem. The woodwork shows a nice colour and retains it's texture. Last season I applied teak oil and let it dry before applying a coat of clear Behr deck waterproofing, UV inhibitor sealant. It seemed to work since I had no reason to reapply further teak oil all season. Yet this year I noticed some greying of the teak... so here I go again. What should I use this year? Should I just give up and try another Varnish or let the teak go grey? CM |
Crap'n Neal® wrote:
Please allow me to express my opinion of the fanatic care and feeding of trim wood on sailboats. 1) Those who spend time, effort and dollars on so-called 'brightwork' are more interested in showing than going. That may sometimes be the case. However it is also true that first, they have the good taste to own a good-looking boat. ... DSK is a good example of this stupidity with his bragging about all the time his wife spends on the varnishing. Please note that this maintenance time is down-time. Actually, one can varnish perfectly well underway, or anchored in a nice cove. 3) Teak trim on a sailboat is just that - trim. It is unnecessary Handrails and hatch slides are unnecessary? 5) I have tossed the constantly-rotting, teak, Actually teak is *very* resistant to rot. In fact under normal conditions and given even half-competent care, it will never rot. If yours were rotting then where does that leave you? .. I will replace the teak-faced, plywood, companionway washboards with the same white plastic (Star Board) as soon as they rot out more and become unserviceable. You can buy the same plastic stuff at Home Depot for less than half the cost. I will never spend one more dollar or one more minute of my sailing time varnishing exterior wood. Since you don't ever spend any time sailing, that's easy for you to say. DSK |
Heard a new one in Virgin Gorda, gentleman was applying stain only.
John Cairns "Capt. Mooron" wrote in message news:w%iXd.9210$ZO2.3913@edtnps84... Since it's approaching... well okay it's at least a month and a half away for some of us... time to consider what approach to use on the vessel's wood trim this year, I thought I would start the annual ASA wood treatment thread. There are those who use Varnish, those who use Cetol, those who use Tung Oil and some of you that use your own secret recipe. What is your preferred method and how do you apply the finish? To start of... I have used varnish, and wasn't convinced that the work to produce such luster was worth the effort of application for one season of duration. I've even tried cetol and was not impressed with the results on both occasions. For years I simply used Teak Oil or Tung Oil and kept a kit aboard for touch ups as required. It's easy to apply and clean up is no problem. The woodwork shows a nice colour and retains it's texture. Last season I applied teak oil and let it dry before applying a coat of clear Behr deck waterproofing, UV inhibitor sealant. It seemed to work since I had no reason to reapply further teak oil all season. Yet this year I noticed some greying of the teak... so here I go again. What should I use this year? Should I just give up and try another Varnish or let the teak go grey? CM |
Well now; Woodwork,
That is an APT word for it Wood Work! Plenty of work! This old man has been the whole route, more than once or twice. I haven't YET decided what is best. The best looking I think is the well sanded teak. Sanded in stages down in grit size until the teak has the look of polish and then the multi layers of Varnish. When just done beautiful when aged; Ugly. I've just now, at the present time, just returned to teak oil, without any hardener. Pure teak oil. A lot of care. Frequent care but the easiest of all care. Can be done under way while on auto pilot. Can be done half ass or not. Can start and stop without a problem. BUT!!! It has to be done often and has to be done. The interior of my boat is teak, as the pictures show. I use the apply and rub down and finish with a hand rub. I'm to old for that **** now. I do the floor with oil applied with a long handle brush. When the floor stops taking oil I use the same brush on bulkheads, lockers and shelves. I hand finish with a paper towel soaked with oil. Do the same with paper towel on hand holds, Hatch slides and main hatch doors. I do kind of agree, right now with Neal. The boat is for sailing pleasure but good looking trim does increase that pleasure. It is different when moored in a marina than when you're hanging on a hook. Comparisons are made Ole Thom http://community.webtv.net/tassail/ThomsPage |
I am very pleased with the finish on the exterior teak. Annually I sand the wood lightly and apply Cetol.. clear. Mid season I apply a new coat of Cetol to protect the teak. For the interior I clean the teak with Interlux Premium Teak Restorer.. and finish with Interlux Premium Teak Oil.. once a season. The boat, a C&C27 Mark III.. 1975 looks as good as new. -- Longing to be closer to to the sun, the wind and the sea! Spiritually at: Latitude 21 degrees 19' 9" North. _!_ Longtitude 157 degrees 56' 31" West. Aloha! ___o_(_)_o___ q |
On Tue, 08 Mar 2005 14:53:16 GMT, "Capt. Mooron"
wrote this crap: Since it's approaching... well okay it's at least a month and a half away for some of us... time to consider what approach to use on the vessel's wood trim this year, I thought I would start the annual ASA wood treatment thread. There are those who use Varnish, those who use Cetol, those who use Tung Oil and some of you that use your own secret recipe. What is your preferred method and how do you apply the finish? I rub my woman's 36DD breasts with oil, then I get my wood out, and Oh crap! Jon-boy is going to follow up with some girlie post. Pathetic Earthlings! No one can save you now! |
On Tue, 8 Mar 2005 13:53:44 -0500, Capt. Neal®
wrote this crap: Dear Group, Please allow me to express my opinion of the fanatic care and feeding of trim wood on sailboats. 1) Those who spend time, effort and dollars on so-called 'brightwork' are more interested in showing than going. DSK is a good example of this stupidity with his bragging about all the time his wife spends on the varnishing. Please note that this maintenance time is down-time. DSK is lying again, as usual. Pathetic Earthlings! No one can save you now! |
We varnsih...seven-right coats worth...and every 4-5 years the whole shebang
gets sanded all the way down and we start over again...we use Z-Spar 2015 (flagship)... "Capt. Mooron" wrote in message news:w%iXd.9210$ZO2.3913@edtnps84... Since it's approaching... well okay it's at least a month and a half away for some of us... time to consider what approach to use on the vessel's wood trim this year, I thought I would start the annual ASA wood treatment thread. There are those who use Varnish, those who use Cetol, those who use Tung Oil and some of you that use your own secret recipe. What is your preferred method and how do you apply the finish? To start of... I have used varnish, and wasn't convinced that the work to produce such luster was worth the effort of application for one season of duration. I've even tried cetol and was not impressed with the results on both occasions. For years I simply used Teak Oil or Tung Oil and kept a kit aboard for touch ups as required. It's easy to apply and clean up is no problem. The woodwork shows a nice colour and retains it's texture. Last season I applied teak oil and let it dry before applying a coat of clear Behr deck waterproofing, UV inhibitor sealant. It seemed to work since I had no reason to reapply further teak oil all season. Yet this year I noticed some greying of the teak... so here I go again. What should I use this year? Should I just give up and try another Varnish or let the teak go grey? CM |
ALl in all, a lovely testimony from who's boat was so cheap the manufacturer
cut corners by using plastic trim and moldings rather than teak to trim it out...But what can we expect from someone who would re-upholster in such a lubberly color as mauve? "Capt. Neal®" wrote in message ... Dear Group, Please allow me to express my opinion of the fanatic care and feeding of trim wood on sailboats. 1) Those who spend time, effort and dollars on so-called 'brightwork' are more interested in showing than going. DSK is a good example of this stupidity with his bragging about all the time his wife spends on the varnishing. Please note that this maintenance time is down-time. 2) If the wood is functional, such as the spreaders on Joe's fine, blue-water, steel vessel, then, by all means, do take care of this functional wood in any manner which preserves it the best. If you like the way several coats of varnish looks and don't mind the extra work then use varnish. On the other hand, if you are more interested in longevity and protection without the constant work then use a quality enamel paint to cover and seal the wood. 3) Teak trim on a sailboat is just that - trim. It is unnecessary and just makes it so you need to spend more time maintaining and less time sailing (or motoring as in the case of DSK). Fools like Doug would rather walk up and down a dock and criticize the brightwork on other boats and compare it to theirs than spend time actually using their boats for the intended purpose which is NOT a constant, futile, never-ending cycle of brightwork maintenance. Even allowing his wife to do the brightwork when Doug states he would rather paint the wood shows he is no man. 4) Real sailors replace all wood trim with plastic or they prepare the wood carefully one time and then paint it with a quality paint (or they remove it). If the painted wood is in an area where it can wear (such as foot traffic, line chafe, etc.), then the wood should be protected with steel. (Joe is smarter than most of you, face it!) Please check out how I painted and protected the two pieces of teak that remained on the deck of my fine vessel. Click on the following link and scroll down toward the middle where a photo of the companionway hatch is shown (sstrim.jpg) and you'll note the teak is painted white (with Petit Easypoxy) and protected from foot traffic by a polished stainless steel strake. http://captneal.homestead.com/littleperfections.html 5) I have tossed the constantly-rotting, teak, cockpit locker covers and replaced them with maintenance-free plastic. http://captneal.homestead.com/bristol.html I will replace the teak-faced, plywood, companionway washboards with the same white plastic (Star Board) as soon as they rot out more and become unserviceable. I will never spend one more dollar or one more minute of my sailing time varnishing exterior wood. It is a never-ending waste of time and money. People who spend any time, whatsoever, doing their "brightwork" are not sailors but pretenders who show off their brightwork because they cannot show-off their sailing skills because they don't have the time to develop any. I find people who have their priorities all wrong like this totally boring and disgusting. They impress me about as much as some conceited, fat fool wearing a bunch of heavy, gold chains around his neck and they share similar personality traits - all show and no go! I hope this helps put things in the proper perspective. Respectfully, Capt. Neal ~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things that you didn't do than by the ones you did do. So throw off the bowlines. Sail away from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream. Discover. -- Mark Twain "Capt. Mooron" wrote in message news:w%iXd.9210$ZO2.3913@edtnps84... Since it's approaching... well okay it's at least a month and a half away for some of us... time to consider what approach to use on the vessel's wood trim this year, I thought I would start the annual ASA wood treatment thread. There are those who use Varnish, those who use Cetol, those who use Tung Oil and some of you that use your own secret recipe. What is your preferred method and how do you apply the finish? To start of... I have used varnish, and wasn't convinced that the work to produce such luster was worth the effort of application for one season of duration. I've even tried cetol and was not impressed with the results on both occasions. For years I simply used Teak Oil or Tung Oil and kept a kit aboard for touch ups as required. It's easy to apply and clean up is no problem. The woodwork shows a nice colour and retains it's texture. Last season I applied teak oil and let it dry before applying a coat of clear Behr deck waterproofing, UV inhibitor sealant. It seemed to work since I had no reason to reapply further teak oil all season. Yet this year I noticed some greying of the teak... so here I go again. What should I use this year? Should I just give up and try another Varnish or let the teak go grey? CM |
Must be nice when it's super humid and someone sits on it with white
shorts... "John Cairns" wrote in message om... Heard a new one in Virgin Gorda, gentleman was applying stain only. John Cairns "Capt. Mooron" wrote in message news:w%iXd.9210$ZO2.3913@edtnps84... Since it's approaching... well okay it's at least a month and a half away for some of us... time to consider what approach to use on the vessel's wood trim this year, I thought I would start the annual ASA wood treatment thread. There are those who use Varnish, those who use Cetol, those who use Tung Oil and some of you that use your own secret recipe. What is your preferred method and how do you apply the finish? To start of... I have used varnish, and wasn't convinced that the work to produce such luster was worth the effort of application for one season of duration. I've even tried cetol and was not impressed with the results on both occasions. For years I simply used Teak Oil or Tung Oil and kept a kit aboard for touch ups as required. It's easy to apply and clean up is no problem. The woodwork shows a nice colour and retains it's texture. Last season I applied teak oil and let it dry before applying a coat of clear Behr deck waterproofing, UV inhibitor sealant. It seemed to work since I had no reason to reapply further teak oil all season. Yet this year I noticed some greying of the teak... so here I go again. What should I use this year? Should I just give up and try another Varnish or let the teak go grey? CM |
The gentleman claimed it lasted as long as varnish and of course is much
easier to apply. John Cairns "katysails" wrote in message ... Must be nice when it's super humid and someone sits on it with white shorts... "John Cairns" wrote in message om... Heard a new one in Virgin Gorda, gentleman was applying stain only. John Cairns "Capt. Mooron" wrote in message news:w%iXd.9210$ZO2.3913@edtnps84... Since it's approaching... well okay it's at least a month and a half away for some of us... time to consider what approach to use on the vessel's wood trim this year, I thought I would start the annual ASA wood treatment thread. There are those who use Varnish, those who use Cetol, those who use Tung Oil and some of you that use your own secret recipe. What is your preferred method and how do you apply the finish? To start of... I have used varnish, and wasn't convinced that the work to produce such luster was worth the effort of application for one season of duration. I've even tried cetol and was not impressed with the results on both occasions. For years I simply used Teak Oil or Tung Oil and kept a kit aboard for touch ups as required. It's easy to apply and clean up is no problem. The woodwork shows a nice colour and retains it's texture. Last season I applied teak oil and let it dry before applying a coat of clear Behr deck waterproofing, UV inhibitor sealant. It seemed to work since I had no reason to reapply further teak oil all season. Yet this year I noticed some greying of the teak... so here I go again. What should I use this year? Should I just give up and try another Varnish or let the teak go grey? CM |
"Capt. Mooron" wrote in message Since it's approaching... well okay it's at least a month and a half away for some of us... time to consider what approach to use on the vessel's wood trim this year, I thought I would start the annual ASA wood treatment thread. There are those who use Varnish, those who use Cetol, those who use Tung Oil and some of you that use your own secret recipe. What is your preferred method and how do you apply the finish? To start of... I have used varnish, and wasn't convinced that the work to produce such luster was worth the effort of application for one season of duration. I've even tried cetol and was not impressed with the results on both occasions. For years I simply used Teak Oil or Tung Oil and kept a kit aboard for touch ups as required. It's easy to apply and clean up is no problem. The woodwork shows a nice colour and retains it's texture. Last season I applied teak oil and let it dry before applying a coat of clear Behr deck waterproofing, UV inhibitor sealant. It seemed to work since I had no reason to reapply further teak oil all season. Yet this year I noticed some greying of the teak... so here I go again. What should I use this year? Should I just give up and try another Varnish or let the teak go grey? You're facing the age-old quandary, Cappy: how to get the appearance of a multi-coat, hand-rubbed varnish finish with the ease of Cetol or oil. Bottom line: ain't ever gonna happen. Either use varnish, or get used to something less attractive. My advice: 1) If you want a varnish finish, start with bare wood and anyone's long oil varnish thinned to 50% for penetration. Let dry, then sand smooth. Then apply three thick coats of Epifanes Gloss Wood Finish without sanding in between. No sanding is necessary, if you apply subsequent coats within 72 hours. And each coat equals two or three coats of long oil varnish. AND it is completely compatible with varnish, either long oil or urethane types. You can even alternate coats between varnish and EGWF, provided you sand after each varnish coat, but not the EGWF coats, not that anyone would actually do this. But back to the process: now allow the last (3rd) coat of EGWF to dry, sand very smooth with 150 grit, 220 grit, and 400 wet/dry, and then apply your final coat of long-oil varnish, either gloss or rubbed-effect (satin). Be sure to refresh the topcoat every year with one or two coats of varnish, or you'll lose the finish and have to start from scratch again. Or you can even use the EGWF instead of varnish--it has just as effective UV filters as most varnish, and better than some. AND be sure to repair any damage to the finish that penetrates to the wood immediately. 2. If you want a Cetol finish, sand the wood smooth, then apply three coats of Cetol Marine without sanding between. That's it, along with refreshing every years with one coat. Nothing could be easier, but don't expect a varnish-like appearance. 3. If an oil finish is acceptable, apply two or three coats of reduced tung oil (pure tung thinned to 50% with mineral spirits), and plan to re-apply every three months during the summer and at the beginning of each season. Nice appearance, but requires too much work, IMO. My pick: Cetol Marine. An acceptable finish if viewed from 10' away or farther, and it protects the wood nicely. Not for teak decks, however, unless you enjoy ice skating in the summer. Max |
"Capt. Mooron" wrote in message Stainless hand holds???... in my climate?.... no thanks! I've been aboard a friend's steel boat here in the winter.... the damn thing was insulated and it was still cold. Yeah, but think of the built-in watermaker you have during humid weather. The condensation on the interior hull topsides could probably fill a gallon bottle by noon. Max |
"DSK" wrote in message I'm confused. By "wood treatment" you mean talking about guns, right? Indeed. We haven't had a gun thread for what? Two weeks? Max |
wrote in message On Tue, 08 Mar 2005 16:06:05 GMT, "Capt. Mooron" Painting it grey is out of the question.... next you'll be suggesting to take a porch paint and brush to the deck and topsides? It seems to have worked for Neal. News to me. I was under the impression he used latex interior wall paint. Max |
Thanx Max..... Maybe I'll give Epifanes a try this year....
CM "Maxprop" wrote in message ink.net... "Capt. Mooron" wrote in message Since it's approaching... well okay it's at least a month and a half away for some of us... time to consider what approach to use on the vessel's wood trim this year, I thought I would start the annual ASA wood treatment thread. There are those who use Varnish, those who use Cetol, those who use Tung Oil and some of you that use your own secret recipe. What is your preferred method and how do you apply the finish? To start of... I have used varnish, and wasn't convinced that the work to produce such luster was worth the effort of application for one season of duration. I've even tried cetol and was not impressed with the results on both occasions. For years I simply used Teak Oil or Tung Oil and kept a kit aboard for touch ups as required. It's easy to apply and clean up is no problem. The woodwork shows a nice colour and retains it's texture. Last season I applied teak oil and let it dry before applying a coat of clear Behr deck waterproofing, UV inhibitor sealant. It seemed to work since I had no reason to reapply further teak oil all season. Yet this year I noticed some greying of the teak... so here I go again. What should I use this year? Should I just give up and try another Varnish or let the teak go grey? You're facing the age-old quandary, Cappy: how to get the appearance of a multi-coat, hand-rubbed varnish finish with the ease of Cetol or oil. Bottom line: ain't ever gonna happen. Either use varnish, or get used to something less attractive. My advice: 1) If you want a varnish finish, start with bare wood and anyone's long oil varnish thinned to 50% for penetration. Let dry, then sand smooth. Then apply three thick coats of Epifanes Gloss Wood Finish without sanding in between. No sanding is necessary, if you apply subsequent coats within 72 hours. And each coat equals two or three coats of long oil varnish. AND it is completely compatible with varnish, either long oil or urethane types. You can even alternate coats between varnish and EGWF, provided you sand after each varnish coat, but not the EGWF coats, not that anyone would actually do this. But back to the process: now allow the last (3rd) coat of EGWF to dry, sand very smooth with 150 grit, 220 grit, and 400 wet/dry, and then apply your final coat of long-oil varnish, either gloss or rubbed-effect (satin). Be sure to refresh the topcoat every year with one or two coats of varnish, or you'll lose the finish and have to start from scratch again. Or you can even use the EGWF instead of varnish--it has just as effective UV filters as most varnish, and better than some. AND be sure to repair any damage to the finish that penetrates to the wood immediately. 2. If you want a Cetol finish, sand the wood smooth, then apply three coats of Cetol Marine without sanding between. That's it, along with refreshing every years with one coat. Nothing could be easier, but don't expect a varnish-like appearance. 3. If an oil finish is acceptable, apply two or three coats of reduced tung oil (pure tung thinned to 50% with mineral spirits), and plan to re-apply every three months during the summer and at the beginning of each season. Nice appearance, but requires too much work, IMO. My pick: Cetol Marine. An acceptable finish if viewed from 10' away or farther, and it protects the wood nicely. Not for teak decks, however, unless you enjoy ice skating in the summer. Max |
"Capt. Neal®" wrote in message Dear Group, Please allow me to express my opinion of the fanatic care and feeding of trim wood on sailboats. 1) Those who spend time, effort and dollars on so-called 'brightwork' are more interested in showing than going. DSK is a good example of this stupidity with his bragging about all the time his wife spends on the varnishing. Please note that this maintenance time is down-time. So I suppose you consider Lin and Larry Pardey to be stupid for the continued effort they make to keep their boat in bristol condition, including frequent brightwork refinishing? You're not fit to eat off the bilge sole of their boat. They voyaged their earlier 24' boat farther in one year than you claim to have sailed that 27' bargain-basement Clorox bottle during your lifetime. 2) If the wood is functional, such as the spreaders on Joe's fine, blue-water, steel vessel, then, by all means, do take care of this functional wood in any manner which preserves it the best. If you like the way several coats of varnish looks and don't mind the extra work then use varnish. On the other hand, if you are more interested in longevity and protection without the constant work then use a quality enamel paint to cover and seal the wood. Terrible advice. Mahogany isn't teak, and it rots along with the best of potentially rotting woods. If a load-bearing mahogany or spruce structure, such as a spar or spreader or tiller, one should NOT hide it under an opaque coating. Varnish is the ONLY answer for mahogany in order to be able to see the condition of the wood. No finish is foolproof--wood can and will rot underneath paint or any other coating. Go back to making love to your rubber doll, Neal, and leave boat maintenance to those who know something about it. 3) Teak trim on a sailboat is just that - trim. It is unnecessary and just makes it so you need to spend more time maintaining and less time sailing (or motoring as in the case of DSK). Fools like Doug would rather walk up and down a dock and criticize the brightwork on other boats and compare it to theirs than spend time actually using their boats for the intended purpose which is NOT a constant, futile, never-ending cycle of brightwork maintenance. Even allowing his wife to do the brightwork when Doug states he would rather paint the wood shows he is no man. Well, no one would ever accuse you of being even remotely interested in having a nice looking boat. Do you paint that cedar bucket? 4) Real sailors replace all wood trim with plastic or they prepare the wood carefully one time and then paint it with a quality paint (or they remove it). If the painted wood is in an area where it can wear (such as foot traffic, line chafe, etc.), then the wood should be protected with steel. (Joe is smarter than most of you, face it!) So, the Pardeys aren't real sailors? Or Olin Stephens? Or L. Frances Herreshoff? Or hundreds of others with similar credentials? How amusing for someone with a homely plastic bleach bottle boat to be pronouncing discredit over those whose sailing credentials are among the ultimate of the genera. snip I will never spend one more dollar or one more minute of my sailing time varnishing exterior wood. It is a never-ending waste of time and money. People who spend any time, whatsoever, doing their "brightwork" are not sailors but pretenders who show off their brightwork because they cannot show-off their sailing skills because they don't have the time to develop any. I find people who have their priorities all wrong like this totally boring and disgusting. They impress me about as much as some conceited, fat fool wearing a bunch of heavy, gold chains around his neck and they share similar personality traits - all show and no go! I hope this helps put things in the proper perspective. *Perverted* is not spelled "p-r-o-p-e-r," Neal. Max |
"DSK" wrote in message Actually, one can varnish perfectly well underway, or anchored in a nice cove. The Pardeys were proof-positive of this. They did brightwork and woodwork jobs as a means of acquiring funds underway, and considered their boat a sales tool. So they kept Serrafin and Taleisin in bristol condition constantly, which often meant doing maintenance underway or in quiet anchorages. AFAIK they still do. Max |
"katysails" wrote in message We varnsih...seven-right coats worth...and every 4-5 years the whole shebang gets sanded all the way down and we start over again...we use Z-Spar 2015 (flagship)... If you and Mr. Sails would just refresh the varnish annually and repair any defects, you'd save a lot of time and effort while keeping it looking bristol. If you'd rather do it your way, why "sand" it down? Use a heat gun and scraper and save about half the time and effort. Scraping is also easier on the wood, if done properly, and it works well with varnish removal. Max |
welcome my good Capt CM. On the edge of Buhayrat al Habbaniyahthe
mohmomad is most expert in the maker of wood treatment for boot. He take camel water and dryed Euphrates water to kleen wood. Mix beetles back with ground tree root from tree at great Zab banks. It louck much honey and shine keep out salt. you like very much Alibaba |
Ali,
This tree root....... from what tree? And how did you find the ASA? Are you in Iraq now? Regards, Joe |
"Maxprop" opined: The Pardeys were proof-positive of this. They did brightwork and woodwork jobs as a means of acquiring funds underway, and considered their boat a sales tool. So they kept Serrafin and Taleisin in bristol condition constantly, which often meant doing maintenance underway or in quiet anchorages. AFAIK they still do. If your idea of cruising is doing brightwork in quiet anchorages then you are as lame as the Pardeys. I sure do enjoy hearing power tools and generators and smelling varinis fumes so some putz can do useless cosmetic work on his boat. Yes siree, that's what quiet anchorages are all about. Uhuh! I would much rather do some snorkeling, fishing, beach combing, exploring and sailing or even just sitting in my cockpit sipping a cold beer while breathing the fresh air, enjoying the peace and quiet and noting I have the time to do it because I'm not a slave to brightwork. . . But, then again, I am not an 'all show but no go' type like you. I value the basics in life. I'm a man and a sailor. You and the over-the-hill Pardeys are show-boaters who have their priorities wrong. CN - a go-boater, not some lame show-boater. |
Oil. That's what I use. Quick and cheap. More time for sailing.
Scotty "Capt. Mooron" wrote in message news:w%iXd.9210$ZO2.3913@edtnps84... Since it's approaching... well okay it's at least a month and a half away for some of us... time to consider what approach to use on the vessel's wood trim this year, I thought I would start the annual ASA wood treatment thread. There are those who use Varnish, those who use Cetol, those who use Tung Oil and some of you that use your own secret recipe. What is your preferred method and how do you apply the finish? To start of... I have used varnish, and wasn't convinced that the work to produce such luster was worth the effort of application for one season of duration. I've even tried cetol and was not impressed with the results on both occasions. For years I simply used Teak Oil or Tung Oil and kept a kit aboard for touch ups as required. It's easy to apply and clean up is no problem. The woodwork shows a nice colour and retains it's texture. Last season I applied teak oil and let it dry before applying a coat of clear Behr deck waterproofing, UV inhibitor sealant. It seemed to work since I had no reason to reapply further teak oil all season. Yet this year I noticed some greying of the teak... so here I go again. What should I use this year? Should I just give up and try another Varnish or let the teak go grey? CM |
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wrote ... Some people have enough substance to have and maintain both show AND go. I'm not No surprise there. |
Yes oil is most very good for sealing poppie tar seems and top to keep
salt at low soak. Oil is good cheap we like too. You buy oil? Alibaba |
You going to tell Mr Sails how to finish teak? Right....he's been
finishing teak since he was a kid...not about to interfere with the process now...he's happy with his process so that's the way it goes...besides, it gives him something to do.... "Maxprop" wrote in message ink.net... "katysails" wrote in message We varnsih...seven-right coats worth...and every 4-5 years the whole shebang gets sanded all the way down and we start over again...we use Z-Spar 2015 (flagship)... If you and Mr. Sails would just refresh the varnish annually and repair any defects, you'd save a lot of time and effort while keeping it looking bristol. If you'd rather do it your way, why "sand" it down? Use a heat gun and scraper and save about half the time and effort. Scraping is also easier on the wood, if done properly, and it works well with varnish removal. Max |
You dork!
Amen! Bob Crantz "Capt. Mooron" wrote in message news:w%iXd.9210$ZO2.3913@edtnps84... Since it's approaching... well okay it's at least a month and a half away for some of us... time to consider what approach to use on the vessel's wood trim this year, I thought I would start the annual ASA wood treatment thread. There are those who use Varnish, those who use Cetol, those who use Tung Oil and some of you that use your own secret recipe. What is your preferred method and how do you apply the finish? To start of... I have used varnish, and wasn't convinced that the work to produce such luster was worth the effort of application for one season of duration. I've even tried cetol and was not impressed with the results on both occasions. For years I simply used Teak Oil or Tung Oil and kept a kit aboard for touch ups as required. It's easy to apply and clean up is no problem. The woodwork shows a nice colour and retains it's texture. Last season I applied teak oil and let it dry before applying a coat of clear Behr deck waterproofing, UV inhibitor sealant. It seemed to work since I had no reason to reapply further teak oil all season. Yet this year I noticed some greying of the teak... so here I go again. What should I use this year? Should I just give up and try another Varnish or let the teak go grey? CM |
"Capt. Mooron" wrote in message Thanx Max..... Maybe I'll give Epifanes a try this year.... I chatted with the Epifanes rep at the Woodenboat Show a few years back. He told me he doesn't use varnish at all any more, thanks to the Gloss Wood Finish. Not good for Epifanes varnish sales, but an honest and interesting testimony. Max |
"Capt. Neal®" wrote in message "Maxprop" opined: The Pardeys were proof-positive of this. They did brightwork and woodwork jobs as a means of acquiring funds underway, and considered their boat a sales tool. So they kept Serrafin and Taleisin in bristol condition constantly, which often meant doing maintenance underway or in quiet anchorages. AFAIK they still do. If your idea of cruising is doing brightwork in quiet anchorages then you are as lame as the Pardeys. I sure do enjoy hearing power tools and generators and smelling varinis fumes so some putz can do useless cosmetic work on his boat. Yes siree, that's what quiet anchorages are all about. Uhuh! I would much rather do some snorkeling, fishing, beach combing, exploring and sailing or even just sitting in my cockpit sipping a cold beer while breathing the fresh air, enjoying the peace and quiet and noting I have the time to do it because I'm not a slave to brightwork. . . But, then again, I am not an 'all show but no go' type like you. I value the basics in life. I'm a man and a sailor. You and the over-the-hill Pardeys are show-boaters who have their priorities wrong. CN - a go-boater, not some lame show-boater. In other words, you are a lazy slob with no pride in his boat. Okay, I can appreciate that, considering the "boat" you own. Max |
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