| Page 1 of 2 | 1 | 2 |
|
|
Hatch Lens
Has anyone replaced a hatch lens lately or know a good place to have one
duplicated? |
What did you break?
Need some bullit proof glass call biswinger in Galveston. a lens is for telescopes not hatches numbnuts. Joe |
Thanks Joe. You are truly on a par with Capt Kneel when it
comes to boating knowledge and using insults to try to make yourself appear smarter than you are. I don't blame either one of you for that you both do need all the help you can get. The "lens" in my hatches are crazed (do you need me to explain that to you?) and I am replacing them. JR Joe wrote: What did you break? Need some bullit proof glass call biswinger in Galveston. a lens is for telescopes not hatches numbnuts. Joe |
Lexan.... tinted if required. It shouldn't be difficult to locate a local
supplier in your area. You can cut and drill it yourself from the original as a template or pay to have it done. I'm replacing mine this spring. I'll cut it with a jigsaw and use my drill press to make the bolt holes. Sand and polish the edges. If you have a seal channel like mine ... use a router to carve it. Buy extra Lexan so you can practise your cuts. CM "JR Gilbreath" wrote in message ... Has anyone replaced a hatch lens lately or know a good place to have one duplicated? |
JFC JR
Dont get your panties in a wad. Bizwinger glass is one of the best in the country when it comes to custom fit bullit proff glass. They did all my wheelhouse glass. I assumed your a brit with your crazy Lens refference. WTF you need a tele number or what? Whipe the snot out of your nose and I will be happy to provide you a tele number. They are good guys and know what they are doing, they did all my wheelhouse glass at a reasonable price. Joe |
Bull****! Lexan crazes over time. If your doing a hatch use armored
glass. Do you want Bizwanger glasses number or not? Joe |
Thanks Capt.
It sure is nice to get a straight answer every once in awhile. Do you know the difference between Lexan and acrylic? I found one place that you could send them and they would would send you an estimate that you had to approve before they started reworking them. They said that their price was usually about half what a new hatch would cost but that seems high to me. They specified that the hatchs (Lewmar) had to have acrylic. I have never worked with Lexan or an acrylic so I not sure how much trouble it is. Thanks Again JR Capt. Mooron wrote: Lexan.... tinted if required. It shouldn't be difficult to locate a local supplier in your area. You can cut and drill it yourself from the original as a template or pay to have it done. I'm replacing mine this spring. I'll cut it with a jigsaw and use my drill press to make the bolt holes. Sand and polish the edges. If you have a seal channel like mine ... use a router to carve it. Buy extra Lexan so you can practise your cuts. CM "JR Gilbreath" wrote in message ... Has anyone replaced a hatch lens lately or know a good place to have one duplicated? |
Thanks Joe. I don't need the number right now but might later. How did
you know my nose was running? BTW the last time I looked, Roswell, Georgia wasn't close to the UK. JR Joe wrote: Bull****! Lexan crazes over time. If your doing a hatch use armored glass. Do you want Bizwanger glasses number or not? Joe |
Well lens implies an item that provide a focus. I work with optical
engineers all the time and when you imply Lens for a window I assumed you were a ******. Dont listen to Mooron. I spent over 2000 bucks on Lexan for my side windows and after 8 years they are not living up to my expecations of clarity. If you have a small "lens" then go with Armored glass not Lexan. Lexan may be as tough but in the long run Glass is superior. How large is your "lens"? Joe |
They are Lewmar 60's the "glass" (the instructions called them lens) is
about 22x22. JR Joe wrote: Well lens implies an item that provide a focus. I work with optical engineers all the time and when you imply Lens for a window I assumed you were a ******. Dont listen to Mooron. I spent over 2000 bucks on Lexan for my side windows and after 8 years they are not living up to my expecations of clarity. If you have a small "lens" then go with Armored glass not Lexan. Lexan may be as tough but in the long run Glass is superior. How large is your "lens"? Joe |
Are they curved?
If not go with armored glass. If they have a curve then Lexan may be the best bet. But expect to either polish them ever 10 years or live with a not so clear view. I have a forward hatch with armored glass about 22" round and it is as clear as the day it was installed and it is 1976 vintage. Joe |
Joe
They are flat. Thanks for all of the information. That surely give me more options. Thanks again and good luck with the vipers JR Joe wrote: Are they curved? If not go with armored glass. If they have a curve then Lexan may be the best bet. But expect to either polish them ever 10 years or live with a not so clear view. I have a forward hatch with armored glass about 22" round and it is as clear as the day it was installed and it is 1976 vintage. Joe |
Mooron I used 3- 4X8' X 1/2" thick sheets of Lexan replacing all my
side windows. Tinted dark. It's good stuff, I can take a 20 pound sledge and with the widest swing bounce it off the windows over and over again without any damage. However it has become dull, scratched, and crazed over time(8years). I'm going to try to polish it this summer, but if I can not get it clear again I'm going to replace it with custom curved armor glass. Glass may cost more but a clear clean view in the long run is worth 10X thew money in the long run IMO. Joe |
If they are flat then go with Armored Glass.
No if's butts or doubts about it. The viper in my parking space is gone now, Wasen't a problem, the drivers window was down and lower than the average urinal. Joe |
Not sure what the exact difference is... Lexan is a trade mark. I was
advised to replace with Lexan instead of glass due to the cost difference. You'll get 10 years out of them easy..... More if you cover the Lexan during idle and cradle time. No hard fast rules.... but it would be interesting to cut the piece yourself. CM "JR Gilbreath" wrote in message ... Thanks Capt. It sure is nice to get a straight answer every once in awhile. Do you know the difference between Lexan and acrylic? I found one place that you could send them and they would would send you an estimate that you had to approve before they started reworking them. They said that their price was usually about half what a new hatch would cost but that seems high to me. They specified that the hatchs (Lewmar) had to have acrylic. I have never worked with Lexan or an acrylic so I not sure how much trouble it is. Thanks Again JR Capt. Mooron wrote: Lexan.... tinted if required. It shouldn't be difficult to locate a local supplier in your area. You can cut and drill it yourself from the original as a template or pay to have it done. I'm replacing mine this spring. I'll cut it with a jigsaw and use my drill press to make the bolt holes. Sand and polish the edges. If you have a seal channel like mine ... use a router to carve it. Buy extra Lexan so you can practise your cuts. CM "JR Gilbreath" wrote in message ... Has anyone replaced a hatch lens lately or know a good place to have one duplicated? |
Lexan is not that hard to work with. The worst part is when you cut it
with a jig saw the lexan heats up and cools behind the blade and you may have to make several passes to get it cut. Do NOT USE PLAIN ACRYLIC. unless you plan to sail on a lake close to shore where you can be rescued easily when your windows cave in . Also regular Acrylic will not take the pressure of cooling and heating, it will BUST . HEED MY WORD JR! Joe |
Don't bother with the polish ... everything I've tried has failed to restore
mine to my satisfaction. When I inquired about it I was advised to cover the Lexan from direct sunlight when in storage or during times that I don't use the vessel to double the life span. Not practical for a live aboard though. It's a matter of cost... not everyone can justify bulletproof glass..... plus the seal channel cuts would be really expensive to place. I've got a piece of 1/2" and 3/4" Lexan clear in the workshop to practise on. I'm going to buy the tinted stock and do all my ports and hatches myself. I'm thinking copper tint.... to accent the teak. :-) CM "Joe" wrote in message oups.com... Mooron I used 3- 4X8' X 1/2" thick sheets of Lexan replacing all my side windows. Tinted dark. It's good stuff, I can take a 20 pound sledge and with the widest swing bounce it off the windows over and over again without any damage. However it has become dull, scratched, and crazed over time(8years). I'm going to try to polish it this summer, but if I can not get it clear again I'm going to replace it with custom curved armor glass. Glass may cost more but a clear clean view in the long run is worth 10X thew money in the long run IMO. Joe |
Thats what I figure 10 year tops without some serious polishing.
My windows have become dull IMO, and show internal crazing. You can still beat the **** out of them and they will not fail, yet the view IMO is less than desirable. If you have flat windows then use armored glass. All mine are curved. However if I can get all new glass made for 3X the price of lexan then that is the way I will go. Like I said, I will try to polish mine this summer, If it does not work then I'm willing to shell out 5-8K to have custom Armored glass made for RedCloud. Joe |
"Joe" wrote in message oups.com... Lexan is not that hard to work with. The worst part is when you cut it with a jig saw the lexan heats up and cools behind the blade and you may have to make several passes to get it cut. Yeah! Variable speed jigsaw, drill and router at low speed. Do NOT USE PLAIN ACRYLIC. unless you plan to sail on a lake close to shore where you can be rescued easily when your windows cave in . Also regular Acrylic will not take the pressure of cooling and heating, it will BUST . HEED MY WORD JR! That's what I was told. CM |
Yeah, When I first bought redcloud I did the acrylic thing, Late one
night when it was cold it sounded like shotguns going off inside as one by one my windows blew apart. You live and lean, only cost me 400-500 bucks Joe |
Joey knows all about getting his panties in a wad.
-- "j" ganz @@ www.sailnow.com "Joe" wrote in message oups.com... JFC JR Dont get your panties in a wad. Bizwinger glass is one of the best in the country when it comes to custom fit bullit proff glass. They did all my wheelhouse glass. I assumed your a brit with your crazy Lens refference. WTF you need a tele number or what? Whipe the snot out of your nose and I will be happy to provide you a tele number. They are good guys and know what they are doing, they did all my wheelhouse glass at a reasonable price. Joe |
Have you considered getting the lens or upper frame from Lewmar? If
you can find a friendly Lewmar dealer (many riggers can special order) you might get a reasonable price. I've given up trying to second guess spares prices - sometimes key parts are dirt cheap, other times they're more then the full item. Here's a typical parts catalog: http://www.kiwiyachting.co.nz/produc...ol_1_Iss_2.pdf JR Gilbreath wrote: They are Lewmar 60's the "glass" (the instructions called them lens) is about 22x22. JR Joe wrote: Well lens implies an item that provide a focus. I work with optical engineers all the time and when you imply Lens for a window I assumed you were a ******. Dont listen to Mooron. I spent over 2000 bucks on Lexan for my side windows and after 8 years they are not living up to my expecations of clarity. If you have a small "lens" then go with Armored glass not Lexan. Lexan may be as tough but in the long run Glass is superior. How large is your "lens"? Joe |
Ours are too, but the glass is rose-colored and when we priced it out we
decided crazed was just fine with us... "JR Gilbreath" wrote in message ... Thanks Joe. You are truly on a par with Capt Kneel when it comes to boating knowledge and using insults to try to make yourself appear smarter than you are. I don't blame either one of you for that you both do need all the help you can get. The "lens" in my hatches are crazed (do you need me to explain that to you?) and I am replacing them. JR Joe wrote: What did you break? Need some bullit proof glass call biswinger in Galveston. a lens is for telescopes not hatches numbnuts. Joe |
Glass is a heck of a lot heavier than Lexan...which makes a difference for
anyone that has a performance boat...I'd stick with Lexan... "JR Gilbreath" wrote in message ... They are Lewmar 60's the "glass" (the instructions called them lens) is about 22x22. JR Joe wrote: Well lens implies an item that provide a focus. I work with optical engineers all the time and when you imply Lens for a window I assumed you were a ******. Dont listen to Mooron. I spent over 2000 bucks on Lexan for my side windows and after 8 years they are not living up to my expecations of clarity. If you have a small "lens" then go with Armored glass not Lexan. Lexan may be as tough but in the long run Glass is superior. How large is your "lens"? Joe |
Lexan is the GE trade name for polycarbonate. Other companies also make
polycarbonate and GE also makes acrylic. One trade name for acrylic is Plexiglas. Almost all hatches come with acrylic standard so replacing them with acrylic is normally fine. Also acrylic is normally much more scratch resistant than polycarbonate and somewhat more UV resistant. Polycarbonate is much stronger but normally less stiff than acrylic. That being said, there are many grades of both acrylic and polycarbonate. If you are to use polycarbonate I highly recommend you use the actual GE Lexan with the scratch and UV resistant coating. If you use acrylic make sure it has UV inhibitors and a high Tg (temperature where it become soft). If you do not use the proper type of each the life will be greatly reduced. "JR Gilbreath" wrote in message ... Has anyone replaced a hatch lens lately or know a good place to have one duplicated? |
Forget about glass. Go with Lexan. Half inch thick Lexan is better and stronger than glass. It's available in a variety of tints, colors and thicknesses. It is also easier to cut. You can use a jigsaw. I hope this helps. BTW, using the word 'lens' for a flat piece of glass or plastic sounds stupid. Call it a replacement 'glass'. I hope this helps. CN "JR Gilbreath" wrote in message ... Has anyone replaced a hatch lens lately or know a good place to have one duplicated? |
Wrong! Glass breaks if you drop a winch handle or something sharp and
heavy onto it. Lexan doesn't break as easily as glass. They use the stuff on the cockpit covers of fighter jets. It's the cat's meow. CN "Joe" wrote in message oups.com... Bull****! Lexan crazes over time. If your doing a hatch use armored glass. Do you want Bizwanger glasses number or not? Joe |
"Joe" wrote in message oups.com... Well lens implies an item that provide a focus. I work with optical engineers all the time and when you imply Lens for a window I assumed you were a ******. You assumed pretty much right. CN |
"katysails" wrote in message ... Glass is a heck of a lot heavier than Lexan...which makes a difference for anyone that has a performance boat...I'd stick with Lexan... If you were really worried about performance of your French Failure, you would go on a diet and lose about thirty pounds. Mr. Sails would appreciate THAT a lot more than a hatch that weighed two pounds less. CN |
Acrylic is what you get when you buy Plexiglas brand plastic.
It is an inferior product for boat use. It is also difficult to cut with a saw because the heat melts it behind the saw blade. BTW, I used tinted, 1/4" Lexan as permanent stormboards to back up my deadlights on the inside of my fine vessel. The Lexan was very easy to cut and fit and drill. You can see one of the fitted deadlights he http://captneal.homestead.com/Navigation.html CN "JR Gilbreath" wrote in message ... Thanks Capt. It sure is nice to get a straight answer every once in awhile. Do you know the difference between Lexan and acrylic? I found one place that you could send them and they would would send you an estimate that you had to approve before they started reworking them. They said that their price was usually about half what a new hatch would cost but that seems high to me. They specified that the hatchs (Lewmar) had to have acrylic. I have never worked with Lexan or an acrylic so I not sure how much trouble it is. Thanks Again JR Capt. Mooron wrote: Lexan.... tinted if required. It shouldn't be difficult to locate a local supplier in your area. You can cut and drill it yourself from the original as a template or pay to have it done. I'm replacing mine this spring. I'll cut it with a jigsaw and use my drill press to make the bolt holes. Sand and polish the edges. If you have a seal channel like mine ... use a router to carve it. Buy extra Lexan so you can practise your cuts. CM "JR Gilbreath" wrote in message ... Has anyone replaced a hatch lens lately or know a good place to have one duplicated? |
Armored glass fitted to rotting and rusting steel frames is overkill.
You should rename your vessel from Red Cloud to "Overkill". You and Mooron could then sail in (slow) company as "Overproof" and "Overkill". Has a nice ring to it. rotflmbfpao CN "Joe" wrote in message oups.com... Thats what I figure 10 year tops without some serious polishing. My windows have become dull IMO, and show internal crazing. You can still beat the **** out of them and they will not fail, yet the view IMO is less than desirable. If you have flat windows then use armored glass. All mine are curved. However if I can get all new glass made for 3X the price of lexan then that is the way I will go. Like I said, I will try to polish mine this summer, If it does not work then I'm willing to shell out 5-8K to have custom Armored glass made for RedCloud. Joe |
You're wrong about the Lexan melting behind the jig-saw blade. It does not unless you have the wrong blade or are going too slow. CN "Joe" wrote in message oups.com... Lexan is not that hard to work with. The worst part is when you cut it with a jig saw the lexan heats up and cools behind the blade and you may have to make several passes to get it cut. Do NOT USE PLAIN ACRYLIC. unless you plan to sail on a lake close to shore where you can be rescued easily when your windows cave in . Also regular Acrylic will not take the pressure of cooling and heating, it will BUST . HEED MY WORD JR! Joe |
You can't go wrong if you do just the opposite of what the Capt
suggests. So I will not use Lexan in the lens. The Capt doesn't read well enough to realize that the manufacturers and dealers call them lens. JR Capt. Neal® wrote: Forget about glass. Go with Lexan. Half inch thick Lexan is better and stronger than glass. It's available in a variety of tints, colors and thicknesses. It is also easier to cut. You can use a jigsaw. I hope this helps. BTW, using the word 'lens' for a flat piece of glass or plastic sounds stupid. Call it a replacement 'glass'. I hope this helps. CN "JR Gilbreath" wrote in message ... Has anyone replaced a hatch lens lately or know a good place to have one duplicated? |
"JR Gilbreath" wrote in message ... You can't go wrong if you do just the opposite of what the Capt suggests. So I will not use Lexan in the lens. The Capt doesn't read well enough to realize that the manufacturers and dealers call them lens. JR Well, you know Nil is never wrong, just assume it to be true as you would the sun rising in the morning. You should feel honored that Nil has chosen to answer your extremely trivial post. He is a master mariner, and has spent more time swinging off his mooring than you have sailing. Look forward to being putzed if you contine with your impertinence!! John Cairns Capt. Neal® wrote: Forget about glass. Go with Lexan. Half inch thick Lexan is better and stronger than glass. It's available in a variety of tints, colors and thicknesses. It is also easier to cut. You can use a jigsaw. I hope this helps. BTW, using the word 'lens' for a flat piece of glass or plastic sounds stupid. Call it a replacement 'glass'. I hope this helps. CN "JR Gilbreath" wrote in message ... Has anyone replaced a hatch lens lately or know a good place to have one duplicated? |
the manufacturers and dealers call them lens.
They do that so they can charge suckers more. It is not a lens. A lens is a transparent optical device used to converge or diverge transmitted light and to form images. Hope this helps Joe |
JR is just another example of the type of person who asks a question
but has a totally closed mind and will not listen to any advice proffered. He runs his mouth in order to feel wanted but never digs decades of old wax out of his ears. Nay, his type will even argue about the advice that is proffered by well-meaning individuals who possess far more experience and know-how than JR will ever even dream of having. Some advice for you - stop siding with losers like JR! CN "John Cairns" wrote Well, you know Nil is never wrong, just assume it to be true as you would the sun rising in the morning. You should feel honored that Nil has chosen to answer your extremely trivial post. He is a master mariner, and has spent more time swinging off his mooring than you have sailing. Look forward to being putzed if you contine with your impertinence!! John Cairns |
Right you are yet again, Joe. Thanks for backing me up with your usual common sense and knowledge of boating related issues. I tried to tell that ignorant putz, JR, the same thing but he is too smug and self-absorbed to listen to the facts. CN "Joe" wrote in message oups.com... the manufacturers and dealers call them lens. They do that so they can charge suckers more. It is not a lens. A lens is a transparent optical device used to converge or diverge transmitted light and to form images. Hope this helps Joe |
But as usual Capt, you are wrong. I am listening, just not to you.
Joe gave me a hell of a lot of good info last night. JR Capt. Neal® wrote: JR is just another example of the type of person who asks a question but has a totally closed mind and will not listen to any advice proffered. He runs his mouth in order to feel wanted but never digs decades of old wax out of his ears. Nay, his type will even argue about the advice that is proffered by well-meaning individuals who possess far more experience and know-how than JR will ever even dream of having. Some advice for you - stop siding with losers like JR! CN "John Cairns" wrote Well, you know Nil is never wrong, just assume it to be true as you would the sun rising in the morning. You should feel honored that Nil has chosen to answer your extremely trivial post. He is a master mariner, and has spent more time swinging off his mooring than you have sailing. Look forward to being putzed if you contine with your impertinence!! John Cairns |
Wrong you both are... deep submersibles use a 10" "lens" as a view port
Sunglasses have lenses and yet do not alter the vision. The pair of you should try learning as an option to spouting. CM "Capt. Neal®" wrote in message ... Right you are yet again, Joe. Thanks for backing me up with your usual common sense and knowledge of boating related issues. I tried to tell that ignorant putz, JR, the same thing but he is too smug and self-absorbed to listen to the facts. CN "Joe" wrote in message oups.com... the manufacturers and dealers call them lens. They do that so they can charge suckers more. It is not a lens. A lens is a transparent optical device used to converge or diverge transmitted light and to form images. Hope this helps Joe |
Wrong again Mooron. Subs have viewing ports not lenses unless the are
concave or convex and reshape light transmitted thru them. . Only reason sunglasses have Lenses is because they are a rip off of the proper name of perscription lenses used in standard eye glasses that predate sunglasses. The proper terms is sunglasses or filters, not sunlenses. You should try learning before spouting off. Joe |
| All times are GMT +1. The time now is 11:43 PM. |
|
Powered by vBulletin® Copyright ©2000 - 2025, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright ©2004 - 2014 BoatBanter.com