On Mon, 16 Aug 2004 02:46:26 GMT, something compelled "Bart
Senior" , to say:

For some reason the engine would start, but die when given some
throttle, or simply quit after a few minutes of operation. It started
fine every time. I checked the cut off valve and it was good. After
thinking about it tonight, I decided it must be the in-line electric fuel
pump I added to help bleed the system. I think if I pulled it out, the
problem will go away. We'll see.

You can keep it, but cut it out of the system for normal
operation. This will look better in a fixed pitch font.

_____________________
| |
| |
A X C D B X
________|____X__P___X________|_______


In the above, lines are fuel lines. X is a valve, and P is your
electric pump.

During normal operation, valves A and B are open, and valves C
and D are closed. When you want to use the electric pump for
bleeding, reverse the valves.

"Bart Senior" wrote:
For some reason the engine would start, but die when given some
throttle, or simply quit after a few minutes of operation. It started
fine every time. I checked the cut off valve and it was good. After
thinking about it tonight, I decided it must be the in-line electric fuel
pump I added to help bleed the system. I think if I pulled it out, the
problem will go away. We'll see.

Sounds like your fuel system may have a small leak that is sucking in
air when running. Sometimes air will leak into a tiny flaw where fuel
not leak out. Most of the time, if there's a leak, it will leak enough
to spot up a paper towel. This is less trouble than blanking it off and
pressurizing with air for a soap bubble test.


Steve Daniels wrote:
You can keep it, but cut it out of the system for normal
operation. This will look better in a fixed pitch font.

_____________________
| |
| |
A X C D B X
________|____X__P___X________|_______


In the above, lines are fuel lines. X is a valve, and P is your
electric pump.

During normal operation, valves A and B are open, and valves C
and D are closed. When you want to use the electric pump for
bleeding, reverse the valves.

You mean put in a bypass... if it's a centrifugal pump, he doesn't
really need a bypass (although it's nice to have one). He just needs
tight connections!

I just found out this week that a fuel leak I thought I'd fixed is still
there (but much smaller, so I at least did it some good). Some of the
connections are in difficult places to reach.

What kind of fittings, what kind of hose, Bart? I happen to like flares
but a lot of people like compression fittings of one type or another. I
have worked with flare fittings on hi-pressure air, hydraulics, various
gasses, and other stuff, for about 30 years and the biggest problem I've
had in over ten years has been our own fuel system!

Fresh Breezes- Doug King

I"m using hose with barb fittings. I have 5/8" return lines
and 3/8" feed lines. I didn't have the right size barbs for
my secondary filter so I had to use a reduction barb.

Everything is double clamped.

The fuel is definitely good, from a clean tanks, and all
filters are new. The only thing I've changed recently is
the electric pump.

"DSK" wrote

What kind of fittings, what kind of hose, Bart? I happen to like flares
but a lot of people like compression fittings of one type or another. I
have worked with flare fittings on hi-pressure air, hydraulics, various
gasses, and other stuff, for about 30 years and the biggest problem I've
had in over ten years has been our own fuel system!

On Mon, 16 Aug 2004 14:45:54 GMT, "Bart Senior"
wrote:

I"m using hose with barb fittings. I have 5/8" return lines
and 3/8" feed lines. I didn't have the right size barbs for
my secondary filter so I had to use a reduction barb.

Everything is double clamped.

The fuel is definitely good, from a clean tanks, and all
filters are new. The only thing I've changed recently is
the electric pump.

"DSK" wrote

What kind of fittings, what kind of hose, Bart? I happen to like flares
but a lot of people like compression fittings of one type or another. I
have worked with flare fittings on hi-pressure air, hydraulics, various
gasses, and other stuff, for about 30 years and the biggest problem I've
had in over ten years has been our own fuel system!


Could your fuel tank vent line be blocked? I am no diesel mechanic,
but *if* you don't have bad fuel, fouled filters, I would check that.

Brilliant! I have the vent going into another tank.
I'll check that.


"felton" wrote

Could your fuel tank vent line be blocked? I am no diesel mechanic,
but *if* you don't have bad fuel, fouled filters, I would check that.

"Bart Senior" wrote in message . net...


create a loop for the pump only if you must have one. Make it where
you can isolate the pump out of the system when not in use. Everyone I
know who did what you did has the same proble trying to suck fuel thru
a electrical pump without it on.

Why do you even need a pump besides the one on your engine?

Joe


I"m using hose with barb fittings. I have 5/8" return lines
and 3/8" feed lines. I didn't have the right size barbs for
my secondary filter so I had to use a reduction barb.

Everything is double clamped.

The fuel is definitely good, from a clean tanks, and all
filters are new. The only thing I've changed recently is
the electric pump.

"DSK" wrote

What kind of fittings, what kind of hose, Bart? I happen to like flares
but a lot of people like compression fittings of one type or another. I
have worked with flare fittings on hi-pressure air, hydraulics, various
gasses, and other stuff, for about 30 years and the biggest problem I've
had in over ten years has been our own fuel system!

I put it on because I had trouble bleeding the system.

I've found that it was damn hard to bleed the system with
either a hand pump or electric. Later I found it was easy to
bleed the system with a little gravity assist.

I was planning on pulling it off anyway. I'd already clipped the
wires and the next step was to pull the pump.


"Joe" wrote

create a loop for the pump only if you must have one. Make it where
you can isolate the pump out of the system when not in use. Everyone I
know who did what you did has the same proble trying to suck fuel thru
a electrical pump without it on.

Why do you even need a pump besides the one on your engine?

"Bart Senior" wrote in message . net...
I put it on because I had trouble bleeding the system.

Here is what you do.

Mount a tank in the fuel system between the pump and the rack. Make
sure the that the tank is higher than the rest of the system.

Make sure the tank will hold an equal volume as the whole system. If
any air gets into the system it will bubble up in this tank. The tank
has a valve on top to bleed air off when you start the engine. I have
a clear hose going from the top of my tank to a day tank for the gen
set, if you do not have a day tank for your gen set use any fuel
container to catch bubbled up fuel.

Its great and works perfectly!

Joe






I've found that it was damn hard to bleed the system with
either a hand pump or electric. Later I found it was easy to
bleed the system with a little gravity assist.

I was planning on pulling it off anyway. I'd already clipped the
wires and the next step was to pull the pump.


"Joe" wrote

create a loop for the pump only if you must have one. Make it where
you can isolate the pump out of the system when not in use. Everyone I
know who did what you did has the same proble trying to suck fuel thru
a electrical pump without it on.

Why do you even need a pump besides the one on your engine?

Bart Senior wrote:
I"m using hose with barb fittings. I have 5/8" return lines
and 3/8" feed lines. I didn't have the right size barbs for
my secondary filter so I had to use a reduction barb.

That shouldn't be a problem. I like to to use hard piping for most of
the fuel system but if I had to do it over again, I'd probably use flex
hose for more of it.


Everything is double clamped.

It can still leak


The fuel is definitely good, from a clean tanks, and all
filters are new. The only thing I've changed recently is
the electric pump.

That's most likely where the problem is, I still suspect an air leak.

It wouldn't hurt to check the vent, as somebody else suggested.

One benefit to putting a bypass on the pump is that you can also tee in
a manifold to use the pump for polishing and transferring fuel as well.
That is my plan, I put in the tees but not the pump. I'm going to add
another set of tanks (probably flexible bladder type) in the
not-too-distant future. Add in some gages, too.

Regards
Doug King

Hmm, I was thinking about going to hard lines!

"DSK" wrote

That shouldn't be a problem. I like to to use hard piping for most of
the fuel system but if I had to do it over again, I'd probably use flex
hose for more of it.

It wouldn't hurt to check the vent, as somebody else suggested.

One benefit to putting a bypass on the pump is that you can also tee in
a manifold to use the pump for polishing and transferring fuel as well.
That is my plan, I put in the tees but not the pump. I'm going to add
another set of tanks (probably flexible bladder type) in the
not-too-distant future. Add in some gages, too.

I'd like to have a fuel scrubbing system. Have you seen these fuel
monitoring systems that measure fuel flow and fuel return to track
fuel usage. I read about them a few months back and I'd like to
find out more about them. I don't want to be wondering how much
fuel I have.