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Has to do with long distance off shore applications. Not necessary for near
coastal probably. If you save only 1/2 knot per hour from drag that's 12 a day times a 22 to 24 day transit to Hawaii or a 30 day transit US to Europe you gain a lot. PRobable savings is closer to 1 knot per hour however. Figure that over a number of years and there's a huge difference. Factor in the cost over that time period .. . .negligible. But for short hops say coasting down to Mexico which is like going down the block to the store then your right it isn't worth it. This type versus full folding? They have crappy reverse capability for starters .. and for finishers. The fully adjustable type .. ..not THAT is beyond the budget. This type is also good for canaling etc. because it obviously had superior prop/engine application to the folding type. So it's a compromise of the three types but a good move over the fixed blade type. THe only real problem is picking which one. M. "DSK" wrote in message ... Michael wrote: Won't keep you long from the main thrust of .asa but I'm compelled to ask advice on a sailing question? REALLY? Imagine that! How are "propellors" related to sailing?!?! I've done a ton of research and come up with several 'candidate' props for the boat. They are all of the self-feathering variety. Max-Prop, Auto-Prop, J-Prop, Luke and a couple more. Threw out the folding kind and the adjustable pitch kind is way to spendy. Well, if you get a cheap one that doesn't work as well, what have you gained? If you want to save money, have a solid prop. Works great. The least troublesome AFAIK low-drag folder is the Mar-tec. I've got a few friends with them on their racer-cruisers, and they have little or no trouble to report. For a cruising boat, I like the Luke 3-blade self-feathering prop. It's a well engineered and well built unit. Only seen it in use on one boat, but it has been trouble free. It's pretty expensive though. Fresh Breezes- Doug King |
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