I ran a length of 3/8" OD soft copper tubing inside 7/8" copper tubing. I
made a tight set of rows using 7/8" 90 deg copper elbows, so the outside of
the condenser is squarish. But, this made it extremely difficult to fish the
3/8 through it. If I were to make another, I would layout a straight length
of 7/8" soft tubing, then insert a slightly longer length of 3/8" soft
tubing inside the 7/8", then roll the whole thing into as tight a circle as
possible (no easy task either, but doable).
Solder a 7/8" copper tee on each end. The 3/8" tubing passes through the
tees at both ends, (either bush the 7/8" down to 3/8" or pinch and braze a
short 7/8 stub around the 3/8 for a water tight seal. The third tee opening
at each end is your fresh water inlet and outlet. I solder hose adapters on
here and this is where I connect the garden hoses. I put a Taco 007
circulating pump in series with the 7/8 tubing. The other end of both hoses
connects to a second coil of copper tubing. I used 5/8" her (M, or thin
copper for easier heat transfer). I formed mine into a rough triangle shape
so it would fit in the anchor locker, around the anchor, when not in use.
If you don't mind making (or buying) a new heat exchanger every year or so,
you could pump seawater through the exchanger. It does make the job a bit
simpler.
One end of the 3/8" tubing ends connect to the compressor discharge (outlet)
and the other end becomes attaches to the expansion device (probably a
capillary tube). Be sure to use a filter-drier between the 3/8 and the
capillary tubing.
Best practice is to pull the system into a vacuum before charging it with
refrigerant. I've it done plenty of times though, if you didn't have a
vacuum pump, that you could just purge the system with refrigerant to
displace the air. This works, but there are a few problems with it (e.g.,
it's illegal in the USA to purge refrigerant to the atmosphere, it shortens
the life of the system by not removing all the moisture and non-condensable
gases that are surely still present in the system).
I F'd up and let the water sit in mine all winter and of course the water
froze and damaged the tubing. I made it a lesson plan at school though; I
brought it in with my torch, then taught a quick lesson on brazing, and
turned it over to my 10th graders. They learned how to braze and I got my
system working again.
Scout


"Jeff Morris" wrote in message
...
I was curious about your homemade condenser - how did you make it and did
you
have to vacuum down the system to install it?


"Scout" wrote in message
...
Thom,
AC ranks right up there with indoor plumbing and anti-biotics. No past
king
or queen lived better than we in those regards.
I've spent most of my life in mechanical construction (steamfitter).
It's
all about boiler rooms, city rooftops, and stifling mechanical rooms. In
the
winter you freeze, in the summer, you sometimes work 'til you puke. On
one
of those hot days I made a vow to myself to be cool and dry when I'm
relaxing. My next sailboat (it's gonna have to wait until I move next
year)
will have a less obtrusive, factory designed unit. Until then this will
have
to do. ahhhhhhhhhhhhhh
Scout

"Thom Stewart" wrote in message
...
Scout,
I want you tknow that this week I've been very envious of your set-up.

Ole Thom

wow, I should've proof read that. lol.
ehh, you'll figure out what I meant to say.
Scout

"Scout" wrote in message
...
I ran a length of 3/8" OD soft copper tubing inside 7/8" copper tubing. I
made a tight set of rows using 7/8" 90 deg copper elbows, so the outside
of
the condenser is squarish. But, this made it extremely difficult to fish
the
3/8 through it. If I were to make another, I would layout a straight
length
of 7/8" soft tubing, then insert a slightly longer length of 3/8" soft
tubing inside the 7/8", then roll the whole thing into as tight a circle
as
possible (no easy task either, but doable).
Solder a 7/8" copper tee on each end. The 3/8" tubing passes through the
tees at both ends, (either bush the 7/8" down to 3/8" or pinch and braze a
short 7/8 stub around the 3/8 for a water tight seal. The third tee
opening
at each end is your fresh water inlet and outlet. I solder hose adapters
on
here and this is where I connect the garden hoses. I put a Taco 007
circulating pump in series with the 7/8 tubing. The other end of both
hoses
connects to a second coil of copper tubing. I used 5/8" her (M, or thin
copper for easier heat transfer). I formed mine into a rough triangle
shape
so it would fit in the anchor locker, around the anchor, when not in use.
If you don't mind making (or buying) a new heat exchanger every year or
so,
you could pump seawater through the exchanger. It does make the job a bit
simpler.
One end of the 3/8" tubing ends connect to the compressor discharge
(outlet)
and the other end becomes attaches to the expansion device (probably a
capillary tube). Be sure to use a filter-drier between the 3/8 and the
capillary tubing.
Best practice is to pull the system into a vacuum before charging it with
refrigerant. I've it done plenty of times though, if you didn't have a
vacuum pump, that you could just purge the system with refrigerant to
displace the air. This works, but there are a few problems with it (e.g.,
it's illegal in the USA to purge refrigerant to the atmosphere, it
shortens
the life of the system by not removing all the moisture and
non-condensable
gases that are surely still present in the system).
I F'd up and let the water sit in mine all winter and of course the water
froze and damaged the tubing. I made it a lesson plan at school though; I
brought it in with my torch, then taught a quick lesson on brazing, and
turned it over to my 10th graders. They learned how to braze and I got my
system working again.
Scout


"Jeff Morris" wrote in message
...
I was curious about your homemade condenser - how did you make it and
did
you
have to vacuum down the system to install it?


"Scout" wrote in message
...
Thom,
AC ranks right up there with indoor plumbing and anti-biotics. No past
king
or queen lived better than we in those regards.
I've spent most of my life in mechanical construction (steamfitter).
It's
all about boiler rooms, city rooftops, and stifling mechanical rooms.
In
the
winter you freeze, in the summer, you sometimes work 'til you puke. On
one
of those hot days I made a vow to myself to be cool and dry when I'm
relaxing. My next sailboat (it's gonna have to wait until I move next
year)
will have a less obtrusive, factory designed unit. Until then this
will
have
to do. ahhhhhhhhhhhhhh
Scout

"Thom Stewart" wrote in message
...
Scout,
I want you tknow that this week I've been very envious of your
set-up.

Ole Thom

Thanks - maybe its time I learned a new skill like pipefitting.

But being lazy, I'd probably go with a ready made, like:
http://www.rparts.com/Catalog/Major_...vaporators.asp

BTW, I decided it was time to start dealing with my fridge, so I got the needed
license to buy Freon and service cars. It took about an hour of work to
complete the online test at www.ase.com. I'm now an EPA certified refrigeration
mechanic! (scary thought, isn't it?)

jeff



"Scout" wrote in message
...
I ran a length of 3/8" OD soft copper tubing inside 7/8" copper tubing. I
made a tight set of rows using 7/8" 90 deg copper elbows, so the outside of
the condenser is squarish. But, this made it extremely difficult to fish the
3/8 through it. If I were to make another, I would layout a straight length
of 7/8" soft tubing, then insert a slightly longer length of 3/8" soft
tubing inside the 7/8", then roll the whole thing into as tight a circle as
possible (no easy task either, but doable).
Solder a 7/8" copper tee on each end. The 3/8" tubing passes through the
tees at both ends, (either bush the 7/8" down to 3/8" or pinch and braze a
short 7/8 stub around the 3/8 for a water tight seal. The third tee opening
at each end is your fresh water inlet and outlet. I solder hose adapters on
here and this is where I connect the garden hoses. I put a Taco 007
circulating pump in series with the 7/8 tubing. The other end of both hoses
connects to a second coil of copper tubing. I used 5/8" her (M, or thin
copper for easier heat transfer). I formed mine into a rough triangle shape
so it would fit in the anchor locker, around the anchor, when not in use.
If you don't mind making (or buying) a new heat exchanger every year or so,
you could pump seawater through the exchanger. It does make the job a bit
simpler.
One end of the 3/8" tubing ends connect to the compressor discharge (outlet)
and the other end becomes attaches to the expansion device (probably a
capillary tube). Be sure to use a filter-drier between the 3/8 and the
capillary tubing.
Best practice is to pull the system into a vacuum before charging it with
refrigerant. I've it done plenty of times though, if you didn't have a
vacuum pump, that you could just purge the system with refrigerant to
displace the air. This works, but there are a few problems with it (e.g.,
it's illegal in the USA to purge refrigerant to the atmosphere, it shortens
the life of the system by not removing all the moisture and non-condensable
gases that are surely still present in the system).
I F'd up and let the water sit in mine all winter and of course the water
froze and damaged the tubing. I made it a lesson plan at school though; I
brought it in with my torch, then taught a quick lesson on brazing, and
turned it over to my 10th graders. They learned how to braze and I got my
system working again.
Scout


"Jeff Morris" wrote in message
...
I was curious about your homemade condenser - how did you make it and did
you
have to vacuum down the system to install it?


"Scout" wrote in message
...
Thom,
AC ranks right up there with indoor plumbing and anti-biotics. No past
king
or queen lived better than we in those regards.
I've spent most of my life in mechanical construction (steamfitter).
It's
all about boiler rooms, city rooftops, and stifling mechanical rooms. In
the
winter you freeze, in the summer, you sometimes work 'til you puke. On
one
of those hot days I made a vow to myself to be cool and dry when I'm
relaxing. My next sailboat (it's gonna have to wait until I move next
year)
will have a less obtrusive, factory designed unit. Until then this will
have
to do. ahhhhhhhhhhhhhh
Scout

"Thom Stewart" wrote in message
...
Scout,
I want you tknow that this week I've been very envious of your set-up.

Ole Thom

hehe, well, regarding the epa test, they just want to make sure they have
you in a corner if they need to prosecute.
The water cooled exchangers look good, price is not bad.
If you decide to put one together, I would strongly recommend removing the
capillary (if one is used) and replacing with a thermostatic expansion
valve. My Walmart unit was cheap, and I was willing to play with the charge
and hope for the best, but if I were investing more cash in a system, I'd
want it to run at it's highest capacity and also protect the compressor from
flood back. It wouldn't hurt to throw in a high pressure switch too, just in
case your pump fails.
Scout


"Jeff Morris" wrote in message
...
Thanks - maybe its time I learned a new skill like pipefitting.

But being lazy, I'd probably go with a ready made, like:

http://www.rparts.com/Catalog/Major_...vaporators.asp

BTW, I decided it was time to start dealing with my fridge, so I got the
needed
license to buy Freon and service cars. It took about an hour of work to
complete the online test at www.ase.com. I'm now an EPA certified
refrigeration
mechanic! (scary thought, isn't it?)

jeff



"Scout" wrote in message
...
I ran a length of 3/8" OD soft copper tubing inside 7/8" copper tubing.
I
made a tight set of rows using 7/8" 90 deg copper elbows, so the outside
of
the condenser is squarish. But, this made it extremely difficult to fish
the
3/8 through it. If I were to make another, I would layout a straight
length
of 7/8" soft tubing, then insert a slightly longer length of 3/8" soft
tubing inside the 7/8", then roll the whole thing into as tight a circle
as
possible (no easy task either, but doable).
Solder a 7/8" copper tee on each end. The 3/8" tubing passes through the
tees at both ends, (either bush the 7/8" down to 3/8" or pinch and braze
a
short 7/8 stub around the 3/8 for a water tight seal. The third tee
opening
at each end is your fresh water inlet and outlet. I solder hose adapters
on
here and this is where I connect the garden hoses. I put a Taco 007
circulating pump in series with the 7/8 tubing. The other end of both
hoses
connects to a second coil of copper tubing. I used 5/8" her (M, or thin
copper for easier heat transfer). I formed mine into a rough triangle
shape
so it would fit in the anchor locker, around the anchor, when not in
use.
If you don't mind making (or buying) a new heat exchanger every year or
so,
you could pump seawater through the exchanger. It does make the job a
bit
simpler.
One end of the 3/8" tubing ends connect to the compressor discharge
(outlet)
and the other end becomes attaches to the expansion device (probably a
capillary tube). Be sure to use a filter-drier between the 3/8 and the
capillary tubing.
Best practice is to pull the system into a vacuum before charging it
with
refrigerant. I've it done plenty of times though, if you didn't have a
vacuum pump, that you could just purge the system with refrigerant to
displace the air. This works, but there are a few problems with it
(e.g.,
it's illegal in the USA to purge refrigerant to the atmosphere, it
shortens
the life of the system by not removing all the moisture and
non-condensable
gases that are surely still present in the system).
I F'd up and let the water sit in mine all winter and of course the
water
froze and damaged the tubing. I made it a lesson plan at school though;
I
brought it in with my torch, then taught a quick lesson on brazing, and
turned it over to my 10th graders. They learned how to braze and I got
my
system working again.
Scout


"Jeff Morris" wrote in message
...
I was curious about your homemade condenser - how did you make it and
did
you
have to vacuum down the system to install it?


"Scout" wrote in message
...
Thom,
AC ranks right up there with indoor plumbing and anti-biotics. No
past
king
or queen lived better than we in those regards.
I've spent most of my life in mechanical construction (steamfitter).
It's
all about boiler rooms, city rooftops, and stifling mechanical
rooms. In
the
winter you freeze, in the summer, you sometimes work 'til you puke.
On
one
of those hot days I made a vow to myself to be cool and dry when I'm
relaxing. My next sailboat (it's gonna have to wait until I move
next
year)
will have a less obtrusive, factory designed unit. Until then this
will
have
to do. ahhhhhhhhhhhhhh
Scout

"Thom Stewart" wrote in message
...
Scout,
I want you tknow that this week I've been very envious of your
set-up.

Ole Thom

I understand the inside plumbing, but what is the triangle in the anchor
locker for?

SV

"Scout" wrote in message
...
I ran a length of 3/8" OD soft copper tubing inside 7/8" copper tubing. I
made a tight set of rows using 7/8" 90 deg copper elbows, so the outside
of
the condenser is squarish. But, this made it extremely difficult to fish
the
3/8 through it. If I were to make another, I would layout a straight
length
of 7/8" soft tubing, then insert a slightly longer length of 3/8" soft
tubing inside the 7/8", then roll the whole thing into as tight a circle
as
possible (no easy task either, but doable).
Solder a 7/8" copper tee on each end. The 3/8" tubing passes through the
tees at both ends, (either bush the 7/8" down to 3/8" or pinch and braze a
short 7/8 stub around the 3/8 for a water tight seal. The third tee
opening
at each end is your fresh water inlet and outlet. I solder hose adapters
on
here and this is where I connect the garden hoses. I put a Taco 007
circulating pump in series with the 7/8 tubing. The other end of both
hoses
connects to a second coil of copper tubing. I used 5/8" her (M, or thin
copper for easier heat transfer). I formed mine into a rough triangle
shape
so it would fit in the anchor locker, around the anchor, when not in use.
If you don't mind making (or buying) a new heat exchanger every year or
so,
you could pump seawater through the exchanger. It does make the job a bit
simpler.
One end of the 3/8" tubing ends connect to the compressor discharge
(outlet)
and the other end becomes attaches to the expansion device (probably a
capillary tube). Be sure to use a filter-drier between the 3/8 and the
capillary tubing.
Best practice is to pull the system into a vacuum before charging it with
refrigerant. I've it done plenty of times though, if you didn't have a
vacuum pump, that you could just purge the system with refrigerant to
displace the air. This works, but there are a few problems with it (e.g.,
it's illegal in the USA to purge refrigerant to the atmosphere, it
shortens
the life of the system by not removing all the moisture and
non-condensable
gases that are surely still present in the system).
I F'd up and let the water sit in mine all winter and of course the water
froze and damaged the tubing. I made it a lesson plan at school though; I
brought it in with my torch, then taught a quick lesson on brazing, and
turned it over to my 10th graders. They learned how to braze and I got my
system working again.
Scout


"Jeff Morris" wrote in message
...
I was curious about your homemade condenser - how did you make it and
did
you
have to vacuum down the system to install it?


"Scout" wrote in message
...
Thom,
AC ranks right up there with indoor plumbing and anti-biotics. No past
king
or queen lived better than we in those regards.
I've spent most of my life in mechanical construction (steamfitter).
It's
all about boiler rooms, city rooftops, and stifling mechanical rooms.
In
the
winter you freeze, in the summer, you sometimes work 'til you puke. On
one
of those hot days I made a vow to myself to be cool and dry when I'm
relaxing. My next sailboat (it's gonna have to wait until I move next
year)
will have a less obtrusive, factory designed unit. Until then this
will
have
to do. ahhhhhhhhhhhhhh
Scout

"Thom Stewart" wrote in message
...
Scout,
I want you tknow that this week I've been very envious of your
set-up.

Ole Thom

it's preshaped for a danforth (the rough triangle). I attempted to make the
most efficient use of the space available by shaping the tubing to fit
around the anchor. It's a bit crowded but it fits.
Scout

"Scott Vernon" wrote in message
...
I understand the inside plumbing, but what is the triangle in the anchor
locker for?

SV

"Scout" wrote in message
...
I ran a length of 3/8" OD soft copper tubing inside 7/8" copper tubing.
I
made a tight set of rows using 7/8" 90 deg copper elbows, so the outside
of
the condenser is squarish. But, this made it extremely difficult to fish
the
3/8 through it. If I were to make another, I would layout a straight
length
of 7/8" soft tubing, then insert a slightly longer length of 3/8" soft
tubing inside the 7/8", then roll the whole thing into as tight a circle
as
possible (no easy task either, but doable).
Solder a 7/8" copper tee on each end. The 3/8" tubing passes through the
tees at both ends, (either bush the 7/8" down to 3/8" or pinch and braze
a
short 7/8 stub around the 3/8 for a water tight seal. The third tee
opening
at each end is your fresh water inlet and outlet. I solder hose adapters
on
here and this is where I connect the garden hoses. I put a Taco 007
circulating pump in series with the 7/8 tubing. The other end of both
hoses
connects to a second coil of copper tubing. I used 5/8" her (M, or thin
copper for easier heat transfer). I formed mine into a rough triangle
shape
so it would fit in the anchor locker, around the anchor, when not in
use.
If you don't mind making (or buying) a new heat exchanger every year or
so,
you could pump seawater through the exchanger. It does make the job a
bit
simpler.
One end of the 3/8" tubing ends connect to the compressor discharge
(outlet)
and the other end becomes attaches to the expansion device (probably a
capillary tube). Be sure to use a filter-drier between the 3/8 and the
capillary tubing.
Best practice is to pull the system into a vacuum before charging it
with
refrigerant. I've it done plenty of times though, if you didn't have a
vacuum pump, that you could just purge the system with refrigerant to
displace the air. This works, but there are a few problems with it
(e.g.,
it's illegal in the USA to purge refrigerant to the atmosphere, it
shortens
the life of the system by not removing all the moisture and
non-condensable
gases that are surely still present in the system).
I F'd up and let the water sit in mine all winter and of course the
water
froze and damaged the tubing. I made it a lesson plan at school though;
I
brought it in with my torch, then taught a quick lesson on brazing, and
turned it over to my 10th graders. They learned how to braze and I got
my
system working again.
Scout


"Jeff Morris" wrote in message
...
I was curious about your homemade condenser - how did you make it and
did
you
have to vacuum down the system to install it?


"Scout" wrote in message
...
Thom,
AC ranks right up there with indoor plumbing and anti-biotics. No
past
king
or queen lived better than we in those regards.
I've spent most of my life in mechanical construction (steamfitter).
It's
all about boiler rooms, city rooftops, and stifling mechanical
rooms.
In
the
winter you freeze, in the summer, you sometimes work 'til you puke.
On
one
of those hot days I made a vow to myself to be cool and dry when I'm
relaxing. My next sailboat (it's gonna have to wait until I move
next
year)
will have a less obtrusive, factory designed unit. Until then this
will
have
to do. ahhhhhhhhhhhhhh
Scout

"Thom Stewart" wrote in message
...
Scout,
I want you tknow that this week I've been very envious of your
set-up.

Ole Thom