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  #31   Report Post  
Wally
 
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N1EE wrote:

Good for you. For full credit I'd like to see
the pictures.


Probably after the weekend - got a full day of racing tomorrow.


I discuss the hollowness of my rudder with a
friend. He suggested that I add some foam to
build it out. I think a layer or two of roving
and some fairing will be easier.


Do you mean glass fibre mat and resin? I'd have thought some sort of foam or
filler would be less work to fair, and probably easier and faster to apply.


Funny you should mention Seagull outboards. I
have an old Seagull 4 HP outboard that came with my
Etchells. It seems seized up.


It would be worth having a look inside the gearbox to se if there's any oil
in it. Do you have a workshop manual for it?


At some point I
need to try and get it working. Let us know what
you learn working on yours.


A gas-powered spanner is *very* useful.


--
Wally
www.artbywally.com
www.wally.myby.co.uk/music


  #32   Report Post  
Pony Express
 
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Bob, who?
You'll have to forgive me. I read very little of
this anymore, so I'm not up to speed on motorized
router bits and the like.
S

"Capt. Mooron" wrote in
message
...
:
: "Pony Express"
wrote in message
:
k.net...
: | Motorized router bits? You guys have some
weird
: | stuff up there in Canada.
:
: Think back Pony.... way back..... when Bob was
the self appointed "Tim the
: Tool Man" on ASA... remember the tool talk and
boasting.... he was
: claiming he had motorized router bits...... ???
:
: Man that was so funny.... it was better than
when I went after him about the
: sailing trip....
:
: How could you guys forget so soon????
:
: Is Bob RIGHT??? ..... are you all suffering
collective Pavlov's syndrome?
:
: CM
:
:

  #33   Report Post  
Scott Vernon
 
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"Capt. Mooron" wrote
I might be getting a brand new ...[ free ]... alternator from a friend.


ok, bob.

  #34   Report Post  
Scott Vernon
 
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2GM20F.

SV


"N1EE" wrote in message
om...
What size Yanmar do you have?


"Scott Vernon" wrote

Install new, bigger holding tank.
Made a new mount for the bow red/green light. Someone broke it off at my
slip.
New ign. switch for the Yanmar.
replaced water pump impellor.
Oiled and re-routed the engine shut-off cable.
New packing in stuffing box.
Touched up bottom paint.
Buffed and waxed the hull, but need to do it over again.


  #35   Report Post  
Scott Vernon
 
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I often wondered how many 'do-gooder' (liberal) legislature types thought
about requiring them on boats.

SV


"N1EE" wrote in message
om...
So did you wire in the turn signals too?

"Scott Vernon" wrote

New ign. switch for the Yanmar.
Maintenance. Boring.



new switch is not maintenance. It's a three pole switch off a

motorcycle.
I wired it so I can start the engine ( or check the fuel gauge) without
that damn buzzer going off.

Scotty




  #36   Report Post  
Flying Tadpole
 
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All you need to know about Seagull motors:

http://www.ace.net.au/schooner/seagull.htm



--
Flying Tadpole

-------------------------
Learn what lies below the waves of cyberspace!
http://www.internetopera.netfirms.com
  #37   Report Post  
Capt. Mooron
 
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"Scott Vernon" wrote in message
...
|
| "Capt. Mooron" wrote
| I might be getting a brand new ...[ free ]... alternator from a friend.
|
| ok, bob.

...and it didn't cost me one red penny!

CM


  #38   Report Post  
Joe
 
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(N1EE) wrote in message om...
Your spring project reports are due soon. (10 pts)

What sort of projects have you been doing to
improve your boat? Report in, or take a dozen
lashes!


Put a layer of 24oz fiberglass matt on top the wheelhouse, 9 yards &
3 gallons of resin.

Now I remember why I hate working with fiberglass so much. Nothing
like sweating your ass off and getting covered with fiberglass.

But it should be hail proof as long as it stays under baseball size.

Joe













My report: Hull Fairing and Painting Project

The last few weeks I've been fairing the hull of my
big boat with a goal of getting it in the water by May
30th. I've just about completed the bottom of the hull,
and plan one more layup of fairing material on the hull.
So far I must have over 24 hours of sanding, and my
brother has another 16 hours logged.

Time to move the poppets and fair the areas under them.
I've been fairing the thru-hulls to take them from nipple
size down to the opening diameter.

Here's what I've learned about fairing a hull.

1. Make small batches of fairing material and apply each
batch carefully. Excess has to be sanded off. Mix your
own and use lots of filler to make it easier to sand.
Several thin layers are easier to work than a single
thick layer. I used West 410 filler and found it mixed
well, and was not too hard to sand. 407 filler was harder
to mix but sanded much easier.

2. Fair every inch of the hull--don't be lazy. I used
a 6" knife to spread it. I cleaned it with solvent when
applying more than one batch. When leaving overnight,
It was faster just to break the plastic off the knife
the following day.

3. The best sander to use is a 6" orbital hook and loop
--6 hole hook and loop--60-80 grit paper. I also used an
air powered longboards for final sanding--use 80-100 grit.

4. Use a vacuum cleaner with the sander and get plenty of
bags.

5. Stay upwind of the sander, and pick a cool, windy cool
day and get the job done quickly If you stay upwind of
the grit on a windy day, you won't need a repirator.

6. Repeat the fairing and sanding a few times and it will
look good.

7. Use a respirator when you are underneath the sander.
Always use eye protection.

8. Take asprin or other pain killers before you start
working--trust me on that one. You'll get more done.

9. Drink at least two beers after every hard day and go
to bed early, so you can start in again early the next
day.

Future work: The keel needs a little more sanding and
fairing, as does the rudder. I've discovered my rudder
is actually slightly concave. It was repaired at some
point. My feeling is I need to fill the hollow spot six
inches in from the trailing edge to make it flat or
slightly convex. I'm worried that as it is--slightly
concave, it'll make the rudder prone to stalling.

Next comes barrier coat and bottom paint. I'm going with
copper-poxy, which needs lots more sanding, but lasts
years longer and can be sanded in the water. It also
serves as a barrier coat, which might save some work.

The shrink wrapp comes off soon. It is starting to get
in the way. So far we have had very little rain, most
of that has passed to the north and missed the boat. My
wooden platform is also getting in the way. Time to bite
the bullet, buy a longer ladder, and improve work access
to the topsides.

After May 1st, I'm going to borrow a mast dolly, sand
and paint the mast, replacing some shives, and work on
the masthead. I want to stick a couple of extra Ham
antennas up there and haven't figured out how to do that
yet.

Bart Senior

  #39   Report Post  
Jeff Morris
 
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"N1EE" wrote in message
om...
Good report, but not enough detail. 8 points.

Any pictures? The eel grass would have been
interesting to see.


Tomorrow, maybe - I did save the largest clump.


What sort of props do you have?


Volvo two blade folding


What do you recommend for raw water strainers?


There's no cheap way because you need full flow. I'm thinking Groco 750's.
Defender is $75 - WasteMarine is $99. I always wondered why they weren't
standard on the boat, but I guess they think the saildrive feed acts as a
strainer. All in all, it wasn't a lot of debris for 5 years, but it did get
inconveniently far into the system.

What is with the carbon in the exhaust elbows?


One engine has a severe bend in the hose between the elbow and the muffler -
about one foot radius. I'm thinking this causes enough back pressure to carbon
up the elbow. This is the forth time I've pulled it, but the buildup wasn't
that severe. The first time it was 80% clogged, so I figure its worth doing
every year or so. This is the second time for the other engine - its buildup
isn't to bad.

Like a lot of jobs, the first time is hard and stressful - then it gets quick
and easy. Four bolts releases it from the block, so the only hassle is the big
exhaust hose.

Is this the first time you have serviced it?


I've done all this before, except for the heat exchanger core. I wish I had
done that several years ago.

How did you find this problems?


A mechanic at Ashley Marina in Charleston, SC was fixing an oil leak (warranty
work - a bad gasket in the original setup) and didn't like the way it reved up.
When he realized we also used that engine for battery charging, he decided it
was worth looking at the elbow. His advice was to reroute the exhaust (which I
haven't done), rev higher when possible, and pull the elbow every 300 hours.


How often does this item need service?


See above. I'm thinking in a year or two I'll just replace the elbows.



Are you coming up to Long Island Sound this year?


We're hoping to get to Maine this Summer. Also, it's likely we'll go to the
Vineyard and maybe Nantucket. Further South than Newport or Cutyhunk is
unlikely. When are you getting out out of the Sound?.

-jeff


  #40   Report Post  
Jonathan Ganz
 
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You do that and someone will report you to the SPCA.

--
"j" ganz @@
www.sailnow.com

"N1EE" wrote in message
om...
Horvath wrote

On 23 Apr 2004 19:25:22 -0700, (N1EE) wrote
this crap:

Your spring project reports are due soon. (10 pts)

What sort of projects have you been doing to
improve your boat? Report in, or take a dozen
lashes!


No. Please don't beat me!


I'd enjoy giving you a dozen with a cat.



 
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