This year I'm paying some extra attention to my 2 Yanmar 2GM20FC's, and
saildrives.

Propellers pulled, new zincs installed, props back on with about half the
hardware replaced.
Replace lower gear oil.
Pull exhaust elbows, chip out carbon, clean with Dremel.
Drain antifreeze.
Pull out heat exchanger coils - I found a large clump of eel grass blocking
about half the passages in one of them - now I know why that engine would
overheat when run too fast. Clean and re-installed.
Change water pump impellors.
Change fuel filters
Replace fan belt on fridge.
Replace water pump on fridge.

Still to do:
finish putting stuff back together, replace antifreeze
buff topsides
bottom paint (I have two 36 foot hulls to do!)
paint saildrives
start engines
replace plastic (strataglas) on one hardtop window
powerwash deck
launch
bend on sails
have a beer, think about installing proper raw water strainers.

Jeff: tip for the futu needing to pull the heat exchanger cores is
very rare. Just drop the end caps and use a 22 cal. bore brush.



On Sat, 24 Apr 2004 07:18:31 -0400, "Jeff Morris"
wrote:

This year I'm paying some extra attention to my 2 Yanmar 2GM20FC's, and
saildrives.

Propellers pulled, new zincs installed, props back on with about half the
hardware replaced.
Replace lower gear oil.
Pull exhaust elbows, chip out carbon, clean with Dremel.
Drain antifreeze.
Pull out heat exchanger coils - I found a large clump of eel grass blocking
about half the passages in one of them - now I know why that engine would
overheat when run too fast. Clean and re-installed.
Change water pump impellors.
Change fuel filters
Replace fan belt on fridge.
Replace water pump on fridge.

Still to do:
finish putting stuff back together, replace antifreeze
buff topsides
bottom paint (I have two 36 foot hulls to do!)
paint saildrives
start engines
replace plastic (strataglas) on one hardtop window
powerwash deck
launch
bend on sails
have a beer, think about installing proper raw water strainers.

"Marc" wrote in message
...
Jeff: tip for the futu needing to pull the heat exchanger cores is
very rare. Just drop the end caps and use a 22 cal. bore brush.


Yes, I can appreciate that, and that's what I did on my last engine (a
Westerbeke). However, to really clean it you need to pull both end caps, and
on the Yanmar, the core just slides out after that. Actually, from my point of
view, the real hassle is draining the fluids - once that's done you might as
well do the complete job.

Also, it did seem like removing one end cap might compromise the seal at the
other end. And I was happy to get a good look at them, since they are
vulnerable to freezing and I spent half the winter wondering if I had done
enough to protect the engine from the deep freeze we just went through. I had
to fix two broken pipes in the basement this winter, so I've been a bit
apprehensive!

-jeff

Marc wrote:

Jeff: tip for the futu needing to pull the heat exchanger cores is
very rare. Just drop the end caps and use a 22 cal. bore brush.

DO NOT do this! At least, don't use a metal bristle. Heat exchanger
tubes are relatively soft, using a gun barrel cleaning brush will erode
them badly. Also the brush rod is a hazard to break the tube.

Use a thin wooden dowel to clean heat exchanger tubes.

DSK

Good report, but not enough detail. 8 points.

Any pictures? The eel grass would have been
interesting to see.

What sort of props do you have?

What do you recommend for raw water strainers?

What is with the carbon in the exhaust elbows?
Is this the first time you have serviced it?
How did you find this problems? How often does
this item need service?

Are you coming up to Long Island Sound this year?

Bart

"Jeff Morris" wrote

This year I'm paying some extra attention to my 2 Yanmar 2GM20FC's, and
saildrives.

Propellers pulled, new zincs installed, props back on with about half the
hardware replaced.
Replace lower gear oil.
Pull exhaust elbows, chip out carbon, clean with Dremel.
Drain antifreeze.
Pull out heat exchanger coils - I found a large clump of eel grass blocking
about half the passages in one of them - now I know why that engine would
overheat when run too fast. Clean and re-installed.
Change water pump impellors.
Change fuel filters
Replace fan belt on fridge.
Replace water pump on fridge.

Still to do:
finish putting stuff back together, replace antifreeze
buff topsides
bottom paint (I have two 36 foot hulls to do!)
paint saildrives
start engines
replace plastic (strataglas) on one hardtop window
powerwash deck
launch
bend on sails
have a beer, think about installing proper raw water strainers.

"N1EE" wrote in message
om...
Good report, but not enough detail. 8 points.

Any pictures? The eel grass would have been
interesting to see.

Tomorrow, maybe - I did save the largest clump.


What sort of props do you have?

Volvo two blade folding


What do you recommend for raw water strainers?


There's no cheap way because you need full flow. I'm thinking Groco 750's.
Defender is $75 - WasteMarine is $99. I always wondered why they weren't
standard on the boat, but I guess they think the saildrive feed acts as a
strainer. All in all, it wasn't a lot of debris for 5 years, but it did get
inconveniently far into the system.

What is with the carbon in the exhaust elbows?

One engine has a severe bend in the hose between the elbow and the muffler -
about one foot radius. I'm thinking this causes enough back pressure to carbon
up the elbow. This is the forth time I've pulled it, but the buildup wasn't
that severe. The first time it was 80% clogged, so I figure its worth doing
every year or so. This is the second time for the other engine - its buildup
isn't to bad.

Like a lot of jobs, the first time is hard and stressful - then it gets quick
and easy. Four bolts releases it from the block, so the only hassle is the big
exhaust hose.

Is this the first time you have serviced it?

I've done all this before, except for the heat exchanger core. I wish I had
done that several years ago.

How did you find this problems?

A mechanic at Ashley Marina in Charleston, SC was fixing an oil leak (warranty
work - a bad gasket in the original setup) and didn't like the way it reved up.
When he realized we also used that engine for battery charging, he decided it
was worth looking at the elbow. His advice was to reroute the exhaust (which I
haven't done), rev higher when possible, and pull the elbow every 300 hours.


How often does this item need service?

See above. I'm thinking in a year or two I'll just replace the elbows.



Are you coming up to Long Island Sound this year?

We're hoping to get to Maine this Summer. Also, it's likely we'll go to the
Vineyard and maybe Nantucket. Further South than Newport or Cutyhunk is
unlikely. When are you getting out out of the Sound?.

-jeff

As promised, some pics. Almost all the engine work is done - now I have the
buffing and painting. Launch in about a week.

Here's a shot down one of the exhaust elbows, chipped out, but not dremmel'd:
http://www.sv-loki.com/carbon.jpg

The elbow with a "U"
http://www.sv-loki.com/exhaust.jpg

Here's the clump of eel grass I pulled out. The gasket for the end of the core
assembly is shown for scale. The intake chamber is the smaller part of the
gasket, one third of the core. The grass is fluffed up compared to how it was
when pulled out.
http://www.sv-loki.com/eelgrass.jpg

The Volvo prop, 16x11
http://www.sv-loki.com/propopen.jpg
http://www.sv-loki.com/propclosed.jpg

Looking forward under "Loki" - in front is a Prout 37:
http://www.sv-loki.com/pdqprout.jpg


"Jeff Morris" wrote in message
...
"N1EE" wrote in message
om...
Good report, but not enough detail. 8 points.

Any pictures? The eel grass would have been
interesting to see.

Tomorrow, maybe - I did save the largest clump.


What sort of props do you have?

Volvo two blade folding


What do you recommend for raw water strainers?


There's no cheap way because you need full flow. I'm thinking Groco 750's.
Defender is $75 - WasteMarine is $99. I always wondered why they weren't
standard on the boat, but I guess they think the saildrive feed acts as a
strainer. All in all, it wasn't a lot of debris for 5 years, but it did get
inconveniently far into the system.

What is with the carbon in the exhaust elbows?

One engine has a severe bend in the hose between the elbow and the muffler -
about one foot radius. I'm thinking this causes enough back pressure to
carbon
up the elbow. This is the forth time I've pulled it, but the buildup wasn't
that severe. The first time it was 80% clogged, so I figure its worth doing
every year or so. This is the second time for the other engine - its buildup
isn't to bad.

Like a lot of jobs, the first time is hard and stressful - then it gets quick
and easy. Four bolts releases it from the block, so the only hassle is the
big
exhaust hose.

Is this the first time you have serviced it?

I've done all this before, except for the heat exchanger core. I wish I had
done that several years ago.

How did you find this problems?

A mechanic at Ashley Marina in Charleston, SC was fixing an oil leak (warranty
work - a bad gasket in the original setup) and didn't like the way it reved
up.
When he realized we also used that engine for battery charging, he decided it
was worth looking at the elbow. His advice was to reroute the exhaust (which
I
haven't done), rev higher when possible, and pull the elbow every 300 hours.


How often does this item need service?

See above. I'm thinking in a year or two I'll just replace the elbows.



Are you coming up to Long Island Sound this year?

We're hoping to get to Maine this Summer. Also, it's likely we'll go to the
Vineyard and maybe Nantucket. Further South than Newport or Cutyhunk is
unlikely. When are you getting out out of the Sound?.

-jeff

I'll give you 2 more points for full credit, and another 2 points as a
bonus for the nice pictures.

What is that growing on your saildrive?

Bart


Jeff Morris wrote in message
...

As promised, some pics. Almost all the engine work is done - now I have
the
buffing and painting. Launch in about a week.

Here's a shot down one of the exhaust elbows, chipped out, but not
dremmel'd:
http://www.sv-loki.com/carbon.jpg

The elbow with a "U"
http://www.sv-loki.com/exhaust.jpg

Here's the clump of eel grass I pulled out. The gasket for the end of
the core
assembly is shown for scale. The intake chamber is the smaller part of
the
gasket, one third of the core. The grass is fluffed up compared to how it
was
when pulled out.
http://www.sv-loki.com/eelgrass.jpg

The Volvo prop, 16x11
http://www.sv-loki.com/propopen.jpg
http://www.sv-loki.com/propclosed.jpg

Looking forward under "Loki" - in front is a Prout 37:
http://www.sv-loki.com/pdqprout.jpg


"Jeff Morris" wrote in message
...
"N1EE" wrote in message
om...
Good report, but not enough detail. 8 points.

Any pictures? The eel grass would have been
interesting to see.

Tomorrow, maybe - I did save the largest clump.


What sort of props do you have?

Volvo two blade folding


What do you recommend for raw water strainers?


There's no cheap way because you need full flow. I'm thinking Groco
750's.
Defender is $75 - WasteMarine is $99. I always wondered why they
weren't
standard on the boat, but I guess they think the saildrive feed acts as
a
strainer. All in all, it wasn't a lot of debris for 5 years, but it did
get
inconveniently far into the system.

What is with the carbon in the exhaust elbows?

One engine has a severe bend in the hose between the elbow and the
muffler -
about one foot radius. I'm thinking this causes enough back pressure to
carbon
up the elbow. This is the forth time I've pulled it, but the buildup
wasn't
that severe. The first time it was 80% clogged, so I figure its worth
doing
every year or so. This is the second time for the other engine - its
buildup
isn't to bad.

Like a lot of jobs, the first time is hard and stressful - then it gets
quick
and easy. Four bolts releases it from the block, so the only hassle is
the
big
exhaust hose.

Is this the first time you have serviced it?

I've done all this before, except for the heat exchanger core. I wish I
had
done that several years ago.

How did you find this problems?

A mechanic at Ashley Marina in Charleston, SC was fixing an oil leak
(warranty
work - a bad gasket in the original setup) and didn't like the way it
reved
up.
When he realized we also used that engine for battery charging, he
decided it
was worth looking at the elbow. His advice was to reroute the exhaust
(which
I
haven't done), rev higher when possible, and pull the elbow every 300
hours.


How often does this item need service?

See above. I'm thinking in a year or two I'll just replace the elbows.



Are you coming up to Long Island Sound this year?

We're hoping to get to Maine this Summer. Also, it's likely we'll go to
the
Vineyard and maybe Nantucket. Further South than Newport or Cutyhunk is
unlikely. When are you getting out out of the Sound?.

-jeff

I was out on the Sound two weeks ago. I was the
first in the club to go sailing. I made it half
way to middle ground (Stratford Shoal). That's a
cool lighthouse in the center of Long Island Sound.

So far only three of four members have their boats
in the water, and I haven't seen any of them with
their sails up.

Total, I've been out sailing three times so far on
the Etchells, the last two times I sailed solo but
cheated and used the mains'l alone. I still have
some tunning to do.

My goal is to get the big boat in the water by the
end of May, and then to move on it until I finish
off the interior. I've ripped out half the galley
and aft head, and need to finish putting that back
together.

Bart

"Jeff Morris" wrote

Are you coming up to Long Island Sound this year?

We're hoping to get to Maine this Summer. Also, it's likely we'll go to the
Vineyard and maybe Nantucket. Further South than Newport or Cutyhunk is
unlikely. When are you getting out out of the Sound?.

-jeff

Ackkkkkkkkk! Not ANOTHER live-aboard!?



"N1EE" wrote

My goal is to get the big boat in the water by the
end of May, and then to move on it