Your spring project reports are due soon. (10 pts)

What sort of projects have you been doing to
improve your boat? Report in, or take a dozen
lashes!

My report: Hull Fairing and Painting Project

The last few weeks I've been fairing the hull of my
big boat with a goal of getting it in the water by May
30th. I've just about completed the bottom of the hull,
and plan one more layup of fairing material on the hull.
So far I must have over 24 hours of sanding, and my
brother has another 16 hours logged.

Time to move the poppets and fair the areas under them.
I've been fairing the thru-hulls to take them from nipple
size down to the opening diameter.

Here's what I've learned about fairing a hull.

1. Make small batches of fairing material and apply each
batch carefully. Excess has to be sanded off. Mix your
own and use lots of filler to make it easier to sand.
Several thin layers are easier to work than a single
thick layer. I used West 410 filler and found it mixed
well, and was not too hard to sand. 407 filler was harder
to mix but sanded much easier.

2. Fair every inch of the hull--don't be lazy. I used
a 6" knife to spread it. I cleaned it with solvent when
applying more than one batch. When leaving overnight,
It was faster just to break the plastic off the knife
the following day.

3. The best sander to use is a 6" orbital hook and loop
--6 hole hook and loop--60-80 grit paper. I also used an
air powered longboards for final sanding--use 80-100 grit.

4. Use a vacuum cleaner with the sander and get plenty of
bags.

5. Stay upwind of the sander, and pick a cool, windy cool
day and get the job done quickly If you stay upwind of
the grit on a windy day, you won't need a repirator.

6. Repeat the fairing and sanding a few times and it will
look good.

7. Use a respirator when you are underneath the sander.
Always use eye protection.

8. Take asprin or other pain killers before you start
working--trust me on that one. You'll get more done.

9. Drink at least two beers after every hard day and go
to bed early, so you can start in again early the next
day.

Future work: The keel needs a little more sanding and
fairing, as does the rudder. I've discovered my rudder
is actually slightly concave. It was repaired at some
point. My feeling is I need to fill the hollow spot six
inches in from the trailing edge to make it flat or
slightly convex. I'm worried that as it is--slightly
concave, it'll make the rudder prone to stalling.

Next comes barrier coat and bottom paint. I'm going with
copper-poxy, which needs lots more sanding, but lasts
years longer and can be sanded in the water. It also
serves as a barrier coat, which might save some work.

The shrink wrapp comes off soon. It is starting to get
in the way. So far we have had very little rain, most
of that has passed to the north and missed the boat. My
wooden platform is also getting in the way. Time to bite
the bullet, buy a longer ladder, and improve work access
to the topsides.

After May 1st, I'm going to borrow a mast dolly, sand
and paint the mast, replacing some shives, and work on
the masthead. I want to stick a couple of extra Ham
antennas up there and haven't figured out how to do that
yet.

Bart Senior

N1EE wrote:
Your spring project reports are due soon. (10 pts)

What sort of projects have you been doing to
improve your boat? Report in, or take a dozen
lashes!

Not so much 'improve' as 'restore'...

I've nearly finished refinishing the rudder (a little paint to do and a
retainer clip to fit), and have finished making the tiller. (Pics sometime
soonish.) Per another thread, I'm looking into new windows (ho ho), and I've
started pulling my Seagull outboard apart to see what needs replacing. Good
to see it has gearbox oil (pity about the propshaft and the tube it sits
in).

For a bonus point, I'm helping my skipper with his masthead light tomorrow -
it came loose during the last race.


--
Wally
www.artbywally.com
www.wally.myby.co.uk/music

Good for you. For full credit I'd like to see
the pictures.

I discuss the hollowness of my rudder with a
friend. He suggested that I add some foam to
build it out. I think a layer or two of roving
and some fairing will be easier.

Funny you should mention Seagull outboards. I
have an old Seagull 4 HP outboard that came with my
Etchells. It seems seized up. At some point I
need to try and get it working. Let us know what
you learn working on yours.

Bart

"Wally" wrote

N1EE wrote:
Your spring project reports are due soon. (10 pts)

Not so much 'improve' as 'restore'...

I've nearly finished refinishing the rudder (a little paint to do and a
retainer clip to fit), and have finished making the tiller. (Pics sometime
soonish.) Per another thread, I'm looking into new windows (ho ho), and I've
started pulling my Seagull outboard apart to see what needs replacing. Good
to see it has gearbox oil (pity about the propshaft and the tube it sits
in).

For a bonus point, I'm helping my skipper with his masthead light tomorrow -
it came loose during the last race.

N1EE wrote:

Good for you. For full credit I'd like to see
the pictures.

Probably after the weekend - got a full day of racing tomorrow.


I discuss the hollowness of my rudder with a
friend. He suggested that I add some foam to
build it out. I think a layer or two of roving
and some fairing will be easier.

Do you mean glass fibre mat and resin? I'd have thought some sort of foam or
filler would be less work to fair, and probably easier and faster to apply.


Funny you should mention Seagull outboards. I
have an old Seagull 4 HP outboard that came with my
Etchells. It seems seized up.

It would be worth having a look inside the gearbox to se if there's any oil
in it. Do you have a workshop manual for it?


At some point I
need to try and get it working. Let us know what
you learn working on yours.

A gas-powered spanner is *very* useful.


--
Wally
www.artbywally.com
www.wally.myby.co.uk/music

All you need to know about Seagull motors:

http://www.ace.net.au/schooner/seagull.htm



--
Flying Tadpole

-------------------------
Learn what lies below the waves of cyberspace!
http://www.internetopera.netfirms.com

Install new, bigger holding tank.
Made a new mount for the bow red/green light. Someone broke it off at my
slip.
New ign. switch for the Yanmar.
replaced water pump impellor.
Oiled and re-routed the engine shut-off cable.
New packing in stuffing box.
Touched up bottom paint.
Buffed and waxed the hull, but need to do it over again.


--
Scotty
S/V Lisa Marie
Balt. MD USA

"N1EE" wrote in message
m...
Your spring project reports are due soon. (10 pts)

What sort of projects have you been doing to
improve your boat? Report in, or take a dozen
lashes!

My report: Hull Fairing and Painting Project

The last few weeks I've been fairing the hull of my
big boat with a goal of getting it in the water by May
30th. I've just about completed the bottom of the hull,
and plan one more layup of fairing material on the hull.
So far I must have over 24 hours of sanding, and my
brother has another 16 hours logged.

Time to move the poppets and fair the areas under them.
I've been fairing the thru-hulls to take them from nipple
size down to the opening diameter.

Here's what I've learned about fairing a hull.

1. Make small batches of fairing material and apply each
batch carefully. Excess has to be sanded off. Mix your
own and use lots of filler to make it easier to sand.
Several thin layers are easier to work than a single
thick layer. I used West 410 filler and found it mixed
well, and was not too hard to sand. 407 filler was harder
to mix but sanded much easier.

2. Fair every inch of the hull--don't be lazy. I used
a 6" knife to spread it. I cleaned it with solvent when
applying more than one batch. When leaving overnight,
It was faster just to break the plastic off the knife
the following day.

3. The best sander to use is a 6" orbital hook and loop
--6 hole hook and loop--60-80 grit paper. I also used an
air powered longboards for final sanding--use 80-100 grit.

4. Use a vacuum cleaner with the sander and get plenty of
bags.

5. Stay upwind of the sander, and pick a cool, windy cool
day and get the job done quickly If you stay upwind of
the grit on a windy day, you won't need a repirator.

6. Repeat the fairing and sanding a few times and it will
look good.

7. Use a respirator when you are underneath the sander.
Always use eye protection.

8. Take asprin or other pain killers before you start
working--trust me on that one. You'll get more done.

9. Drink at least two beers after every hard day and go
to bed early, so you can start in again early the next
day.

Future work: The keel needs a little more sanding and
fairing, as does the rudder. I've discovered my rudder
is actually slightly concave. It was repaired at some
point. My feeling is I need to fill the hollow spot six
inches in from the trailing edge to make it flat or
slightly convex. I'm worried that as it is--slightly
concave, it'll make the rudder prone to stalling.

Next comes barrier coat and bottom paint. I'm going with
copper-poxy, which needs lots more sanding, but lasts
years longer and can be sanded in the water. It also
serves as a barrier coat, which might save some work.

The shrink wrapp comes off soon. It is starting to get
in the way. So far we have had very little rain, most
of that has passed to the north and missed the boat. My
wooden platform is also getting in the way. Time to bite
the bullet, buy a longer ladder, and improve work access
to the topsides.

After May 1st, I'm going to borrow a mast dolly, sand
and paint the mast, replacing some shives, and work on
the masthead. I want to stick a couple of extra Ham
antennas up there and haven't figured out how to do that
yet.

Bart Senior

"Scott Vernon" wrote in message

| Buffed and waxed the hull, but need to do it over again.

Did you use your Industrial Grade Grinder to polish it??

Maybe you can find one on Ebay. ;-D

CM

Nah, the B&D sander/polisher. I just sold some 'junk' on ebay for $320.

Scotty


"Capt. Mooron" wrote in message
news

"Scott Vernon" wrote in message

| Buffed and waxed the hull, but need to do it over again.

Did you use your Industrial Grade Grinder to polish it??

Maybe you can find one on Ebay. ;-D

CM

I take it then that you totally ignored Bob's adamant advise that an
Industrial Grade Grinder with a polishing pad is the ultimate tool for a
mirror like finish on your hull????

Well... off I go to buy a set of motorized router bits. I think I'll take my
Mountain Bike and make sure I drive back and forth in front of the store's
driveway just to be sure I'm at the right place. ;-)

Of course I'll tell everyone I went to the other side of town and not the
local outlet.

I'll also mentioned I raced & passed a Vette along the way......

CM


"Scott Vernon" wrote in message
...
| Nah, the B&D sander/polisher. I just sold some 'junk' on ebay for $320.
|
| Scotty
|
|
| "Capt. Mooron" wrote in message
| news |
| "Scott Vernon" wrote in message
|
| | Buffed and waxed the hull, but need to do it over again.
|
| Did you use your Industrial Grade Grinder to polish it??
|
| Maybe you can find one on Ebay. ;-D
|
| CM
|
|
|

"Capt. Mooron" wrote ...
I take it then that you totally ignored Bob

I try to.