Capt. Mooron wrote:

I like the new version you've designed. It has better lines and looks
more rakish.

It came out better than I was expecting. I also removed the stanchions and
lifelines, so it looks cleaner in the doctored photo.


I would think you would want to cut the opening to match ...

Not keen on that - I'd be concerned about weakening the structure. I think
there's a (hollow GRP?) beam on the inside, forward of the leading edge of
the existing windows - the mast is deck-stepped.


... and place the
tinted panel on the inside though if you intend to reseal the works
with a rubber strip again.

I wouldn't be using the same type of rubber strip (where the window is cut
smaller than the hole), but something flat that goes between the surfaces.
Someone mentioned (elsewhere) that butyl tape between the acrylic and the
cabin wall would make a good seal. I've seen this stuff mentioned as sealing
in building work that I've been involved with, so I guess it's pretty good -
not as sticky as mastic, but tackier than plain rubber. It should apply in a
nice straight line, rather than squidge like gooey sealer would, and it
should be easier to remove if I ever have to replace a window.


Will you be beveling the edges of the new acrylic panels prior to
outside mounting to reduce water entrapment and possible leak
development?

Yes, they'd be fared towards the surface of the cabin side, with the sealing
strip brought to the edge of the acrylic. Screws/bolts at about 2" centres.
The likely shape is a bevel, with the remaining angle radiused - the
smoother the transition, the less likely it is to be painful if anyone takes
a knock against the edge (works on guitar scratchplates, so...).


--
Wally
www.artbywally.com
www.wally.myby.co.uk/music