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#1
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Lifelines Part II
I'll start this one without a comment but with questions.
a. How tall (length of vertical piping) are the stanchions on your boat? b. Diameter of stanchions is? c. How many stanchions between the fore and aft pulpits ove what distance(feet or meters I do both)? d. How many lifelines are mounted? e. To refresh the memory give the boat name/model and length on deck. Answer should like something like this (all in the feet/yard system). 24/01/03/18/26 as an example. That's all I need for now M. |
#2
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Lifelines Part II
Michael wrote: I'll start this one without a comment but with questions. a. How tall (length of vertical piping) are the stanchions on your boat? On our little boat (19' LOA), they're 20" high. The perfect height for tripping you up... but the idea is to give a solid handhold (which they do) not to enable carelessness. I much prefer 30" stanchions with double lifelines. A bit harder to step over but they are much less likely to trip up the crew working on deck. The tugboat has 26" bulwarks all around with a handrail above that fore & aft. It's nice for keeping dropped stuff, pets & small children, aboard. b. Diameter of stanchions is? 1" which is IMHO minimum. The tapered stanchions look cool. Another issue is how the stanchion bases are constructed, and how they are fastened. Sockets are bad. Welded base plates are bad unless lugged (which you can't tell without cutting it open). Lag screws are bad. Bolts without backing plates are bad. Bolts through cored fiberglass are bad. In short, there are a lot of bad ways to mount stanchions (and you'll see them all on a short dock walk) but not many good ways. The little boat has an odd way of mounting the stanchions, they are carried down alongside the side of the raised deck and bolted though the topsides. Hunter did that detail right, they are very solid. I've seen some European boats that had their lifeline stanchions mounted in a similar way, but it takes either some tumblehome or a thick rub rail or they get banged against everything coming alongside. Fresh Breezes- Doug King |
#3
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Lifelines Part II
My purpose in this was to elicit comments on the height of the stanchions
themselves, for those that use them. In some cases, primarily local area racing boats they aren't installed. In others they are but mostly the factory standard of 20". Doug, naturally, hit on the main point right away. IF you do use stanchions and lifelines 20" is just the perfect height to trip over. Initially I had, and the same with this boat, custom stanchions installed at 30". With the Centaur I added two stanchions and bases as well on each side (and made sure they were wide base with good backing plates and base braces.) The Berwick, happily came with a sufficient number. In the wilder waters of the world, as compared to the gentle protected waters of Long Island Sound for example, it's easy for the boat to lurch violently at the odd, unexpected moment. When transiting to the foredeck or back you must always be prepared for that. It's more common than a fair weather/water sailor might think. Borrowing some extra ideas from an experienced circumnavigator I added two more options. Granted this may seem like overkill but when one singlehands on blue water I doubt any added safety features are overkill. The first was to move the jacklines more inboard. On the foredeck and on the cabin tops the jackline IS in the center. The cabin section gives a better angle of support, both sections force you to move more inboard, further away from the rail/lifelines and one can always hook in and move on the windward side with ease. The second is an optional feature which is a long piece of webbing, jackline style which runs between the stern and bow pulpit but raises at an angle to shoulder height at the lower spreader. I rig this in rougher conditions and it acts as a third lifeline but the advantage is if one is thrown outboard it catches you at or near the shoulder. Thus enhancing the 30" stanchion upper lifeline which catches you above, not below the knee. Again this is not a calm water or racing setup, unless of course it was the Sydney Hobart! A third feature I'm going to add on this boat is an extra toe rail board (2") or so along the stanchions but leaving a 2" opening for water to egress. You'll see this on many production boats of the cruising variety plus on Taliesyn. and of course some sort of netting to catch the basket ball when I miss a shot. (Sense of Humour check that last bit.) Some may wonder why all of this? IF you sail in the extreme NE or NW parts of the country, in Canada, or in any similar places you won't be asking that question. But I'm reminded of entering the Columbia River, skirting a tad bit too close to the Peacock Shoals (never again thank you) and then going up river. A lot of salmon fisherman were out including one who was in a lake style skiff wearing some saggy shorts and a t-shirt (never mind any floatation devices) and busy cutting away line from his prop while drifting into the freighter lane. He looked up and remarked. "What's all that for .. You don't need all that." Two days later he became the 37th drowning fatality for that year. I don't think he's laughing at my penchant for 'overkill' anymore. So to finish, finally, my reason for Lifelines II was to point out there's more than one part to the system. And thanks Doug for introducing the fallacy and dangers of 20" stanchions. M. "DSK" wrote in message ... Michael wrote: I'll start this one without a comment but with questions. a. How tall (length of vertical piping) are the stanchions on your boat? On our little boat (19' LOA), they're 20" high. The perfect height for tripping you up... but the idea is to give a solid handhold (which they do) not to enable carelessness. I much prefer 30" stanchions with double lifelines. A bit harder to step over but they are much less likely to trip up the crew working on deck. The tugboat has 26" bulwarks all around with a handrail above that fore & aft. It's nice for keeping dropped stuff, pets & small children, aboard. b. Diameter of stanchions is? 1" which is IMHO minimum. The tapered stanchions look cool. Another issue is how the stanchion bases are constructed, and how they are fastened. Sockets are bad. Welded base plates are bad unless lugged (which you can't tell without cutting it open). Lag screws are bad. Bolts without backing plates are bad. Bolts through cored fiberglass are bad. In short, there are a lot of bad ways to mount stanchions (and you'll see them all on a short dock walk) but not many good ways. The little boat has an odd way of mounting the stanchions, they are carried down alongside the side of the raised deck and bolted though the topsides. Hunter did that detail right, they are very solid. I've seen some European boats that had their lifeline stanchions mounted in a similar way, but it takes either some tumblehome or a thick rub rail or they get banged against everything coming alongside. Fresh Breezes- Doug King |
#4
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Lifelines Part II
Excellent post!
John Cairns "Michael" wrote in message ... My purpose in this was to elicit comments on the height of the stanchions themselves, for those that use them. In some cases, primarily local area racing boats they aren't installed. In others they are but mostly the factory standard of 20". Doug, naturally, hit on the main point right away. IF you do use stanchions and lifelines 20" is just the perfect height to trip over. Initially I had, and the same with this boat, custom stanchions installed at 30". With the Centaur I added two stanchions and bases as well on each side (and made sure they were wide base with good backing plates and base braces.) The Berwick, happily came with a sufficient number. In the wilder waters of the world, as compared to the gentle protected waters of Long Island Sound for example, it's easy for the boat to lurch violently at the odd, unexpected moment. When transiting to the foredeck or back you must always be prepared for that. It's more common than a fair weather/water sailor might think. Borrowing some extra ideas from an experienced circumnavigator I added two more options. Granted this may seem like overkill but when one singlehands on blue water I doubt any added safety features are overkill. The first was to move the jacklines more inboard. On the foredeck and on the cabin tops the jackline IS in the center. The cabin section gives a better angle of support, both sections force you to move more inboard, further away from the rail/lifelines and one can always hook in and move on the windward side with ease. The second is an optional feature which is a long piece of webbing, jackline style which runs between the stern and bow pulpit but raises at an angle to shoulder height at the lower spreader. I rig this in rougher conditions and it acts as a third lifeline but the advantage is if one is thrown outboard it catches you at or near the shoulder. Thus enhancing the 30" stanchion upper lifeline which catches you above, not below the knee. Again this is not a calm water or racing setup, unless of course it was the Sydney Hobart! A third feature I'm going to add on this boat is an extra toe rail board (2") or so along the stanchions but leaving a 2" opening for water to egress. You'll see this on many production boats of the cruising variety plus on Taliesyn. and of course some sort of netting to catch the basket ball when I miss a shot. (Sense of Humour check that last bit.) Some may wonder why all of this? IF you sail in the extreme NE or NW parts of the country, in Canada, or in any similar places you won't be asking that question. But I'm reminded of entering the Columbia River, skirting a tad bit too close to the Peacock Shoals (never again thank you) and then going up river. A lot of salmon fisherman were out including one who was in a lake style skiff wearing some saggy shorts and a t-shirt (never mind any floatation devices) and busy cutting away line from his prop while drifting into the freighter lane. He looked up and remarked. "What's all that for ... You don't need all that." Two days later he became the 37th drowning fatality for that year. I don't think he's laughing at my penchant for 'overkill' anymore. So to finish, finally, my reason for Lifelines II was to point out there's more than one part to the system. And thanks Doug for introducing the fallacy and dangers of 20" stanchions. M. "DSK" wrote in message ... Michael wrote: I'll start this one without a comment but with questions. a. How tall (length of vertical piping) are the stanchions on your boat? On our little boat (19' LOA), they're 20" high. The perfect height for tripping you up... but the idea is to give a solid handhold (which they do) not to enable carelessness. I much prefer 30" stanchions with double lifelines. A bit harder to step over but they are much less likely to trip up the crew working on deck. The tugboat has 26" bulwarks all around with a handrail above that fore & aft. It's nice for keeping dropped stuff, pets & small children, aboard. b. Diameter of stanchions is? 1" which is IMHO minimum. The tapered stanchions look cool. Another issue is how the stanchion bases are constructed, and how they are fastened. Sockets are bad. Welded base plates are bad unless lugged (which you can't tell without cutting it open). Lag screws are bad. Bolts without backing plates are bad. Bolts through cored fiberglass are bad. In short, there are a lot of bad ways to mount stanchions (and you'll see them all on a short dock walk) but not many good ways. The little boat has an odd way of mounting the stanchions, they are carried down alongside the side of the raised deck and bolted though the topsides. Hunter did that detail right, they are very solid. I've seen some European boats that had their lifeline stanchions mounted in a similar way, but it takes either some tumblehome or a thick rub rail or they get banged against everything coming alongside. Fresh Breezes- Doug King |
#5
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Lifelines Part II
yeah, it tells how to trip over 30" stanchions instead of 20" stanchions.
Excellent, racko-nos. excellent. Excellent post! John Cairns "Michael" wrote in message ... My purpose in this was to elicit comments on the height of the stanchions themselves, for those that use them. In some cases, primarily local area racing boats they aren't installed. In others they are but mostly the factory standard of 20". Doug, naturally, hit on the main point right away. IF you do use stanchions and lifelines 20" is just the perfect height to trip over. Initially I had, and the same with this boat, custom stanchions installed at 30". With the Centaur I added two stanchions and bases as well on each side (and made sure they were wide base with good backing plates and base braces.) The Berwick, happily came with a sufficient number. In the wilder waters of the world, as compared to the gentle protected waters of Long Island Sound for example, it's easy for the boat to lurch violently at the odd, unexpected moment. When transiting to the foredeck or back you must always be prepared for that. It's more common than a fair weather/water sailor might think. Borrowing some extra ideas from an experienced circumnavigator I added two more options. Granted this may seem like overkill but when one singlehands on blue water I doubt any added safety features are overkill. The first was to move the jacklines more inboard. On the foredeck and on the cabin tops the jackline IS in the center. The cabin section gives a better angle of support, both sections force you to move more inboard, further away from the rail/lifelines and one can always hook in and move on the windward side with ease. The second is an optional feature which is a long piece of webbing, jackline style which runs between the stern and bow pulpit but raises at an angle to shoulder height at the lower spreader. I rig this in rougher conditions and it acts as a third lifeline but the advantage is if one is thrown outboard it catches you at or near the shoulder. Thus enhancing the 30" stanchion upper lifeline which catches you above, not below the knee. Again this is not a calm water or racing setup, unless of course it was the Sydney Hobart! A third feature I'm going to add on this boat is an extra toe rail board (2") or so along the stanchions but leaving a 2" opening for water to egress. You'll see this on many production boats of the cruising variety plus on Taliesyn. and of course some sort of netting to catch the basket ball when I miss a shot. (Sense of Humour check that last bit.) Some may wonder why all of this? IF you sail in the extreme NE or NW parts of the country, in Canada, or in any similar places you won't be asking that question. But I'm reminded of entering the Columbia River, skirting a tad bit too close to the Peacock Shoals (never again thank you) and then going up river. A lot of salmon fisherman were out including one who was in a lake style skiff wearing some saggy shorts and a t-shirt (never mind any floatation devices) and busy cutting away line from his prop while drifting into the freighter lane. He looked up and remarked. "What's all that for .. You don't need all that." Two days later he became the 37th drowning fatality for that year. I don't think he's laughing at my penchant for 'overkill' anymore. So to finish, finally, my reason for Lifelines II was to point out there's more than one part to the system. And thanks Doug for introducing the fallacy and dangers of 20" stanchions. M. "DSK" wrote in message ... Michael wrote: I'll start this one without a comment but with questions. a. How tall (length of vertical piping) are the stanchions on your boat? On our little boat (19' LOA), they're 20" high. The perfect height for tripping you up... but the idea is to give a solid handhold (which they do) not to enable carelessness. I much prefer 30" stanchions with double lifelines. A bit harder to step over but they are much less likely to trip up the crew working on deck. The tugboat has 26" bulwarks all around with a handrail above that fore & aft. It's nice for keeping dropped stuff, pets & small children, aboard. b. Diameter of stanchions is? 1" which is IMHO minimum. The tapered stanchions look cool. Another issue is how the stanchion bases are constructed, and how they are fastened. Sockets are bad. Welded base plates are bad unless lugged (which you can't tell without cutting it open). Lag screws are bad. Bolts without backing plates are bad. Bolts through cored fiberglass are bad. In short, there are a lot of bad ways to mount stanchions (and you'll see them all on a short dock walk) but not many good ways. The little boat has an odd way of mounting the stanchions, they are carried down alongside the side of the raised deck and bolted though the topsides. Hunter did that detail right, they are very solid. I've seen some European boats that had their lifeline stanchions mounted in a similar way, but it takes either some tumblehome or a thick rub rail or they get banged against everything coming alongside. Fresh Breezes- Doug King |
#6
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Lifelines Part II
mostly the
factory standard of 20". Doug, naturally, hit on the main point right away. dougies sails (or rather did sail) a 19 foot boat on very protected waters. 20" is more than good enough. Offshore boats usually have two, not one, lifelines, and the stanchions are higher. |
#7
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Lifelines Part II
"Michael" wrote in message ... I'll start this one without a comment but with questions. a. How tall (length of vertical piping) are the stanchions on your boat? About 4 inches. b. Diameter of stanchions is? 1-1/2" I believe c. How many stanchions between the fore and aft pulpits ove what distance(feet or meters I do both)? Actually, it's a one-piece handrail. d. How many lifelines are mounted? zero e. To refresh the memory give the boat name/model and length on deck. Cal 20, ummm... 20 ft. Answer should like something like this (all in the feet/yard system). 24/01/03/18/26 as an example. 35/24/34/18/old enough That's all I need for now M. |
#9
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Lifelines Part II
No. I have a Cal 20 that I can race and have raced. It doesn't
come with lifelines, there's no need to add them for a couple of reasons, and this has nothing to do with claims of universal application. What I am claiming, however, is that you're an idiot. "JAXAshby" wrote in message ... you have a 20 bay sailor you can't race (no lifelines) and you are attempting to claim THAT defines the universe? sure. From: "Jonathan Ganz" Date: 2/20/2004 1:29 PM Eastern Standard Time Message-id: "Michael" wrote in message ... I'll start this one without a comment but with questions. a. How tall (length of vertical piping) are the stanchions on your boat? About 4 inches. b. Diameter of stanchions is? 1-1/2" I believe c. How many stanchions between the fore and aft pulpits ove what distance(feet or meters I do both)? Actually, it's a one-piece handrail. d. How many lifelines are mounted? zero e. To refresh the memory give the boat name/model and length on deck. Cal 20, ummm... 20 ft. Answer should like something like this (all in the feet/yard system). 24/01/03/18/26 as an example. 35/24/34/18/old enough That's all I need for now M. |
#10
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Lifelines Part II
ah, just where is it that you race where lifelines are not REQUIRED?
No. I have a Cal 20 that I can race and have raced. It doesn't come with lifelines, there's no need to add them for a couple of reasons, and this has nothing to do with claims of universal application. What I am claiming, however, is that you're an idiot. "JAXAshby" wrote in message ... you have a 20 bay sailor you can't race (no lifelines) and you are attempting to claim THAT defines the universe? sure. From: "Jonathan Ganz" Date: 2/20/2004 1:29 PM Eastern Standard Time Message-id: "Michael" wrote in message ... I'll start this one without a comment but with questions. a. How tall (length of vertical piping) are the stanchions on your boat? About 4 inches. b. Diameter of stanchions is? 1-1/2" I believe c. How many stanchions between the fore and aft pulpits ove what distance(feet or meters I do both)? Actually, it's a one-piece handrail. d. How many lifelines are mounted? zero e. To refresh the memory give the boat name/model and length on deck. Cal 20, ummm... 20 ft. Answer should like something like this (all in the feet/yard system). 24/01/03/18/26 as an example. 35/24/34/18/old enough That's all I need for now M. |
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