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#1
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"DSK" wrote in message
... Usually it refers to a sailing vessel's ability to make good speed to windward, ie maintaining above average (or at least, better than the vessel being compared) VMG. In some senses, it can be taken to mean being able to make good to windward under adverse conditons. So, does that mean that a catamaran that has a good VMG is more weatherly than a monohull that points higher? Does "under adverse conditions" mean, for instance, a chop, which a cat might handle well, or does it imply the issue of tacking quickly, which may be needed to work off a lee shore? I'm not debating; I'm bringing this up because I've been asked if my cat would be considered "weatherly," and my answer is "in some ways, yes; in other ways, no." Having enjoyed the adrenaline rush of raising anchor and clawing off a nasty lee shore at 3 in the morning, I'm glad my cat has twin diesels. |
#2
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Jeff Morris wrote:
So, does that mean that a catamaran that has a good VMG is more weatherly than a monohull that points higher? Of course not, don't be silly ![]() Actually, I'd give some consideration that the higher pointing boat would be the more weatherly, but actual VMG should probably be the deciding factor. Does "under adverse conditions" mean, for instance, a chop, which a cat might handle well, or does it imply the issue of tacking quickly, which may be needed to work off a lee shore? Again this is just my HO but 'weatherliness' doesn't include tacking. I'm not debating; I'm bringing this up because I've been asked if my cat would be considered "weatherly," and my answer is "in some ways, yes; in other ways, no." That's a good answer. Having enjoyed the adrenaline rush of raising anchor and clawing off a nasty lee shore at 3 in the morning, I'm glad my cat has twin diesels. Whatever works. I've not only motored out from lee shores, I've done it in reverse. Mind you, I'm not claiming that had Joshua Slocum been in my shoes he'd have done the same thing.... FB DSK |
#3
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![]() DSK wrote: Jeff Morris wrote: So, does that mean that a catamaran that has a good VMG is more weatherly than a monohull that points higher? Of course not, don't be silly ![]() Actually, I'd give some consideration that the higher pointing boat would be the more weatherly, but actual VMG should probably be the deciding factor. No, your first guess was right : the most weatherly boat is the boat that goes closest to the wind. As long as the DMG is to windward you can escape a lee. A high VMG might be made by a very shallow angle to the wind. Think about being caught in a lee bay... When you add in losses for tacking the faster VMG might not get out... Cheers |
#4
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DSK wrote in message
amazingly well. If the chop increases and flow in both air and water gets turbulent, they loose their efficiency and lower aspect rigs, and keels that are stubbier & swept back are the best. Also in chop, lighter boats can be stopped by a wave. The light weight water ballasted Mini-Transat boats use ballast, not just for increasing righting moment but to maintain inertia--the added mass keeps them moving. I agree a broader keel would be less likely to stall in turbulent conditions. Why is it better for such keels to be swept back? Bart Senior |
#5
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N1EE wrote:
Also in chop, lighter boats can be stopped by a wave. True. And while it is possible to foot off and regain some VMG, usually you can't regain all of it. The light weight water ballasted Mini-Transat boats use ballast, not just for increasing righting moment but to maintain inertia--the added mass keeps them moving. They also shift the center of mass forward, put the bow down. I agree a broader keel would be less likely to stall in turbulent conditions. Why is it better for such keels to be swept back? I don't really know how it works, but swept back foils are more resistant to stalling. Anther keel shape you might notice some time is that many fin keels are tapered in profile to the bottom edge, but they are not tapered in section. The chord gets shorter and the camber gets fatter. This does two things, it reduce turbulence off the bottom edge and makes the lower secton harder to stall, and gets more ballast down low. BTW I thought Frank's answer was good. Much shorter and to the point than my rambling posts. Fresh Breezes- Doug King |
#6
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DSK wrote:
....snip... BTW I thought Frank's answer was good. Much shorter and to the point than my rambling posts. Thanks, Doug; but my comments were too brusque. You actually took the time and effort to explain some details, when by contrast I just said something like "trim appropriately." Probably not very valuable advice to someone who's a bit hazy on the "best" way to trim his/her boat. Sounds like we're basically talking about the same concepts; so maybe in either case it's a starting point for discussion/argument, like the thread about cats vs. monohulls and pointing vs. VMG which developed from your comments. That was good stuff. These are the kind of threads which make this ng valuable to participants. (Well, *this* participant, anyway.) I hadda laugh when Bobsprit jumped in and offered his advice on how to pose a question for discussion. Yeah, right. Like anything he's ever posted has generated and actual discussion. It's always just looooong threads of "my dick's the biggest" vs. "no, my dick's bigger" and "you're gay" vs. "no, you're gay." I'm happy to have an honest disagreement with someone. I have friends who favor "classic cruisers" with full keels, high D/L ratios, etc.; and we often have long "discussions" over a bottle of wine (or two) about what constitutes the "best" sailboat. We sometimes get a bit loud; but somehow it never degenerates into that silly ad hominem crap. Anyway, I'll just say that this was a good thread. I've enjoyed it and look forward to others like it. I don't participate often; but I read most threads here. |
#7
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DSK wrote
What makes a boat 'weatherly?' Firstly, an effective rig... most importantly one that can be shaped and sheeted inboard for maintaining drive at an angle close to the wind. One big improvement that can be made in many production boats is to put on a proper jib/genoa sheet track to bring the sheet lead inboard. Sheeting to the toerail ain't gonna get it (in most boats). Using a second jib sheet to place the jib clue where you want it is an option--like a barber hauler only pulling inboard. This only works if the shrouds don't get in the way! Usually, the jib tracks are located as far inboard as the shrouds will allow, and barberhaulers are used to pull the jib clue outboard when sailing more off the wind. So it all depends on what you are using for a head sail. A small jib with it's clue forward of the shrouds could be controlled more accurately using this method, with jib sheet chafing at the shrouds. Bart Senior |
#8
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![]() DSK wrote: To improve the weatherliness of any boat, start first with the rig. The mast should be straight & vertically centered... you'd be amazed at how many sailors, even racers, are breezing around with crooked and/or slanted masts. Doug, I am surprised at this comment and I'll disagree with it for a number of reasons: Bending the mast aft can flatten the main. A flatter main is better at high wind strengths -and apparent wind is highest when going upwind. Flattening the main also helps keep the slot open to increase the efficiency of the foresail. The latter is the most important sail for weatherliness. So by bending the mast aft, forestay tension is increased to reduce forestay sag that reduces efficiency. Finally, straightening the mast is not a good idea if the main sail is old and out of shape (where the bend helps keep the draft forward) or even not originally cut to a straight mast! Finally, as an extra bonus, adding some mast bend can help prevent mast inversion in severe conditions which can lead to a catastrophic collapse (but I wouldn't expect you to know about that problem). while most should know that the rake of the mast affects C of E and the degree of weather helm, I'll guess that many do knot know that by giving the boat some weather helm she climbs to windward better as the rudder adds lift. So, the bottom line is that it may be quite inappropriate to straighten the mast to make the boat weatherly. Cheers |
#9
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MC wrote:
Doug, I am surprised at this comment and I'll disagree with it for a number of reasons: Bending the mast aft can flatten the main. That isn't what I was talking about. And the sail has to be cut to take the mast bend into account, or it doesn't work. So, the bottom line is that it may be quite inappropriate to straighten the mast to make the boat weatherly. Considering that you don't know that 20 doesn't equal 15, and from what you have said about your racing results, you have a lot more to learn than to teach. DSK |
#10
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![]() DSK wrote: MC wrote: Doug, I am surprised at this comment and I'll disagree with it for a number of reasons: Bending the mast aft can flatten the main. That isn't what I was talking about. And the sail has to be cut to take the mast bend into account, or it doesn't work. So, you don't understand why bending a mast can flatten the main? Try visiting a sail trimming site such as North -they explain it well and it is really basic stuff. So, the bottom line is that it may be quite inappropriate to straighten the mast to make the boat weatherly. Considering that you don't know that 20 doesn't equal 15, and from what you have said about your racing results, you have a lot more to learn than to teach. Aww, don't pout so. Why do you continue with this nonsense. Look up the boat I named and you'll find it's not 24' nor 20' long. These are your fabrications getting in the way of truth again. Sorry, you lose again. Cheers |
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