Continuous line replacement
 

I have to change the continuous line on my Hood roller furler. Is there
instruction anywhere on splicing the line? Is that what I need to do? I got
the boat in July after Gatti Marine and Racine Riverside in Wisconsin messed
up the set-up (line installed backward/upside down). We struggled with it
waiting for the repair but Racine Riverside blew me off. Now in dry-dock,
the line could use a change, showing its wear. Any direction is much
appreciated. I'll no doubt have other questions as I seek to set her up
properly. Thanks.

Ryan

Continuous line replacement
 

Instructions for end splicing of braided line are available on line ,
just google. If you can't splice, here's a trick. Get your line
spliced at a rigging shop. Attach your jib halyard to the chain plate
and detach the roller furling. Put the line around the chain plate and
reattach the roller furling. Now, release the socket head screws that
hold the the lower shroud covering the sheave and place the line on
the sheave. replace the shroud and you're in business.


On Fri, 10 Oct 2003 21:44:18 GMT, "JR" wrote:

I have to change the continuous line on my Hood roller furler. Is there
instruction anywhere on splicing the line? Is that what I need to do? I got
the boat in July after Gatti Marine and Racine Riverside in Wisconsin messed
up the set-up (line installed backward/upside down). We struggled with it
waiting for the repair but Racine Riverside blew me off. Now in dry-dock,
the line could use a change, showing its wear. Any direction is much
appreciated. I'll no doubt have other questions as I seek to set her up
properly. Thanks.

Ryan

Continuous line replacement
 

How's he gonna get the spliced bight of line around the mast,
shrouds, etc?

Throw away that wind-up crap and get safe, simple and reliable
hank-on sails instead.

S.Simon


"Marc" wrote in message ...
Instructions for end splicing of braided line are available on line ,
just google. If you can't splice, here's a trick. Get your line
spliced at a rigging shop. Attach your jib halyard to the chain plate
and detach the roller furling. Put the line around the chain plate and
reattach the roller furling. Now, release the socket head screws that
hold the the lower shroud covering the sheave and place the line on
the sheave. replace the shroud and you're in business.


On Fri, 10 Oct 2003 21:44:18 GMT, "JR" wrote:

I have to change the continuous line on my Hood roller furler. Is there
instruction anywhere on splicing the line? Is that what I need to do? I got
the boat in July after Gatti Marine and Racine Riverside in Wisconsin messed
up the set-up (line installed backward/upside down). We struggled with it
waiting for the repair but Racine Riverside blew me off. Now in dry-dock,
the line could use a change, showing its wear. Any direction is much
appreciated. I'll no doubt have other questions as I seek to set her up
properly. Thanks.

Ryan

Continuous line replacement
 

Call Hood and get a manual for your model....

--=20
katysails
s/v Chanteuse
Kirie Elite 32
http://katysails.tripod.com

"Women and cats will do as they please, and men and dogs should relax
and get used to the idea." - Robert A. Heinlein

Continuous line replacement
 

Read for content , Simpleton. Temp rig the jib halyard as a forestay,
remove the forstay (furler) from the bow plate, place bight of endless
line around bow plate and reattach forestay (furler). The Hood LD was
a good simple furler that worked without fail on my 31 footer. Take
your hank ons and blow them out your ass with the rest of your advice.
As usual, your question shows your failure to understand how a boat is
rigged and your eagerness to demonstrate that failure regardless..



On Fri, 10 Oct 2003 19:15:30 -0400, "Simple Simon"
wrote:



How's he gonna get the spliced bight of line around the mast,
shrouds, etc?

Throw away that wind-up crap and get safe, simple and reliable
hank-on sails instead.

S.Simon


"Marc" wrote in message ...
Instructions for end splicing of braided line are available on line ,
just google. If you can't splice, here's a trick. Get your line
spliced at a rigging shop. Attach your jib halyard to the chain plate
and detach the roller furling. Put the line around the chain plate and
reattach the roller furling. Now, release the socket head screws that
hold the the lower shroud covering the sheave and place the line on
the sheave. replace the shroud and you're in business.


On Fri, 10 Oct 2003 21:44:18 GMT, "JR" wrote:

I have to change the continuous line on my Hood roller furler. Is there
instruction anywhere on splicing the line? Is that what I need to do? I got
the boat in July after Gatti Marine and Racine Riverside in Wisconsin messed
up the set-up (line installed backward/upside down). We struggled with it
waiting for the repair but Racine Riverside blew me off. Now in dry-dock,
the line could use a change, showing its wear. Any direction is much
appreciated. I'll no doubt have other questions as I seek to set her up
properly. Thanks.

Ryan

Continuous line replacement
 

Cappy thinks the furling line goes 'around' the boat... he is totally
unaware it can be run on either side.... thus his belief it must negotiate
the mast and shrouds.

CM

"Marc" wrote in message
...
| Read for content , Simpleton. Temp rig the jib halyard as a forestay,
| remove the forstay (furler) from the bow plate, place bight of endless
| line around bow plate and reattach forestay (furler). The Hood LD was
| a good simple furler that worked without fail on my 31 footer. Take
| your hank ons and blow them out your ass with the rest of your advice.
| As usual, your question shows your failure to understand how a boat is
| rigged and your eagerness to demonstrate that failure regardless..
|
|
|
| On Fri, 10 Oct 2003 19:15:30 -0400, "Simple Simon"
| wrote:
|
|
|
| How's he gonna get the spliced bight of line around the mast,
| shrouds, etc?
|
| Throw away that wind-up crap and get safe, simple and reliable
| hank-on sails instead.
|
| S.Simon
|
|
| "Marc" wrote in message
...
| Instructions for end splicing of braided line are available on line ,
| just google. If you can't splice, here's a trick. Get your line
| spliced at a rigging shop. Attach your jib halyard to the chain plate
| and detach the roller furling. Put the line around the chain plate and
| reattach the roller furling. Now, release the socket head screws that
| hold the the lower shroud covering the sheave and place the line on
| the sheave. replace the shroud and you're in business.
|
|
| On Fri, 10 Oct 2003 21:44:18 GMT, "JR" wrote:
|
| I have to change the continuous line on my Hood roller furler. Is
there
| instruction anywhere on splicing the line? Is that what I need to do?
I got
| the boat in July after Gatti Marine and Racine Riverside in Wisconsin
messed
| up the set-up (line installed backward/upside down). We struggled with
it
| waiting for the repair but Racine Riverside blew me off. Now in
dry-dock,
| the line could use a change, showing its wear. Any direction is much
| appreciated. I'll no doubt have other questions as I seek to set her
up
| properly. Thanks.
|
| Ryan
|
|
|
|

Continuous line replacement
 

Thanks - I was about to claim you could pass it under the keel!


"Capt. Mooron" wrote in message
...
Cappy thinks the furling line goes 'around' the boat... he is totally
unaware it can be run on either side.... thus his belief it must negotiate
the mast and shrouds.

CM

"Marc" wrote in message
...
| Read for content , Simpleton. Temp rig the jib halyard as a forestay,
| remove the forstay (furler) from the bow plate, place bight of endless
| line around bow plate and reattach forestay (furler). The Hood LD was
| a good simple furler that worked without fail on my 31 footer. Take
| your hank ons and blow them out your ass with the rest of your advice.
| As usual, your question shows your failure to understand how a boat is
| rigged and your eagerness to demonstrate that failure regardless..
|
|
|
| On Fri, 10 Oct 2003 19:15:30 -0400, "Simple Simon"
| wrote:
|
|
|
| How's he gonna get the spliced bight of line around the mast,
| shrouds, etc?
|
| Throw away that wind-up crap and get safe, simple and reliable
| hank-on sails instead.
|
| S.Simon
|
|
| "Marc" wrote in message
...
| Instructions for end splicing of braided line are available on line ,
| just google. If you can't splice, here's a trick. Get your line
| spliced at a rigging shop. Attach your jib halyard to the chain plate
| and detach the roller furling. Put the line around the chain plate and
| reattach the roller furling. Now, release the socket head screws that
| hold the the lower shroud covering the sheave and place the line on
| the sheave. replace the shroud and you're in business.
|
|
| On Fri, 10 Oct 2003 21:44:18 GMT, "JR" wrote:
|
| I have to change the continuous line on my Hood roller furler. Is
there
| instruction anywhere on splicing the line? Is that what I need to do?
I got
| the boat in July after Gatti Marine and Racine Riverside in Wisconsin
messed
| up the set-up (line installed backward/upside down). We struggled with
it
| waiting for the repair but Racine Riverside blew me off. Now in
dry-dock,
| the line could use a change, showing its wear. Any direction is much
| appreciated. I'll no doubt have other questions as I seek to set her
up
| properly. Thanks.
|
| Ryan
|
|
|
|

Continuous line replacement
 

Sorry for ruining it for you Jeff....:-)

CM

"Jeff Morris" jeffmo@NoSpam-sv-lokiDOTcom wrote in message
...
| Thanks - I was about to claim you could pass it under the keel!
|
|
| "Capt. Mooron" wrote in message
| ...
| Cappy thinks the furling line goes 'around' the boat... he is totally
| unaware it can be run on either side.... thus his belief it must
negotiate
| the mast and shrouds.
|
| CM
|
| "Marc" wrote in message
| ...
| | Read for content , Simpleton. Temp rig the jib halyard as a forestay,
| | remove the forstay (furler) from the bow plate, place bight of endless
| | line around bow plate and reattach forestay (furler). The Hood LD was
| | a good simple furler that worked without fail on my 31 footer. Take
| | your hank ons and blow them out your ass with the rest of your advice.
| | As usual, your question shows your failure to understand how a boat is
| | rigged and your eagerness to demonstrate that failure regardless..
| |
| |
| |
| | On Fri, 10 Oct 2003 19:15:30 -0400, "Simple Simon"
| | wrote:
| |
| |
| |
| | How's he gonna get the spliced bight of line around the mast,
| | shrouds, etc?
| |
| | Throw away that wind-up crap and get safe, simple and reliable
| | hank-on sails instead.
| |
| | S.Simon
| |
| |
| | "Marc" wrote in message
| ...
| | Instructions for end splicing of braided line are available on line
,
| | just google. If you can't splice, here's a trick. Get your line
| | spliced at a rigging shop. Attach your jib halyard to the chain
plate
| | and detach the roller furling. Put the line around the chain plate
and
| | reattach the roller furling. Now, release the socket head screws
that
| | hold the the lower shroud covering the sheave and place the line on
| | the sheave. replace the shroud and you're in business.
| |
| |
| | On Fri, 10 Oct 2003 21:44:18 GMT, "JR"
wrote:
| |
| | I have to change the continuous line on my Hood roller furler. Is
| there
| | instruction anywhere on splicing the line? Is that what I need to
do?
| I got
| | the boat in July after Gatti Marine and Racine Riverside in
Wisconsin
| messed
| | up the set-up (line installed backward/upside down). We struggled
with
| it
| | waiting for the repair but Racine Riverside blew me off. Now in
| dry-dock,
| | the line could use a change, showing its wear. Any direction is
much
| | appreciated. I'll no doubt have other questions as I seek to set
her
| up
| | properly. Thanks.
| |
| | Ryan
| |
| |
| |
| |
|
|
|
|

Continuous line replacement
 

I would contact Hood. I have a Hood furler on my Catalina, they sent me a
manual free of charge.
http://www.pompanette.com/pompweb.nsf/pages/hoodmain
John Cairns
"JR" wrote in message
. com...
I have to change the continuous line on my Hood roller furler. Is there
instruction anywhere on splicing the line? Is that what I need to do? I
got
the boat in July after Gatti Marine and Racine Riverside in Wisconsin
messed
up the set-up (line installed backward/upside down). We struggled with it
waiting for the repair but Racine Riverside blew me off. Now in dry-dock,
the line could use a change, showing its wear. Any direction is much
appreciated. I'll no doubt have other questions as I seek to set her up
properly. Thanks.

Ryan

Continuous line replacement
 

Thanks all. You guys and gals crack me up.

Ryan

"John Cairns" wrote in message
...
I would contact Hood. I have a Hood furler on my Catalina, they sent me a
manual free of charge.
http://www.pompanette.com/pompweb.nsf/pages/hoodmain
John Cairns
"JR" wrote in message
. com...
I have to change the continuous line on my Hood roller furler. Is there
instruction anywhere on splicing the line? Is that what I need to do? I
got
the boat in July after Gatti Marine and Racine Riverside in Wisconsin
messed
up the set-up (line installed backward/upside down). We struggled with
it
waiting for the repair but Racine Riverside blew me off. Now in
dry-dock,
the line could use a change, showing its wear. Any direction is much
appreciated. I'll no doubt have other questions as I seek to set her up
properly. Thanks.

Ryan