Continuous line replacement
 

I have to change the continuous line on my Hood roller furler. Is there
instruction anywhere on splicing the line? Is that what I need to do? I got
the boat in July after Gatti Marine and Racine Riverside in Wisconsin messed
up the set-up (line installed backward/upside down). We struggled with it
waiting for the repair but Racine Riverside blew me off. Now in dry-dock,
the line could use a change, showing its wear. Any direction is much
appreciated. I'll no doubt have other questions as I seek to set her up
properly. Thanks.

Ryan

Continuous line replacement
 

Instructions for end splicing of braided line are available on line ,
just google. If you can't splice, here's a trick. Get your line
spliced at a rigging shop. Attach your jib halyard to the chain plate
and detach the roller furling. Put the line around the chain plate and
reattach the roller furling. Now, release the socket head screws that
hold the the lower shroud covering the sheave and place the line on
the sheave. replace the shroud and you're in business.


On Fri, 10 Oct 2003 21:44:18 GMT, "JR" wrote:

I have to change the continuous line on my Hood roller furler. Is there
instruction anywhere on splicing the line? Is that what I need to do? I got
the boat in July after Gatti Marine and Racine Riverside in Wisconsin messed
up the set-up (line installed backward/upside down). We struggled with it
waiting for the repair but Racine Riverside blew me off. Now in dry-dock,
the line could use a change, showing its wear. Any direction is much
appreciated. I'll no doubt have other questions as I seek to set her up
properly. Thanks.

Ryan

Continuous line replacement
 

How's he gonna get the spliced bight of line around the mast,
shrouds, etc?

Throw away that wind-up crap and get safe, simple and reliable
hank-on sails instead.

S.Simon


"Marc" wrote in message ...
Instructions for end splicing of braided line are available on line ,
just google. If you can't splice, here's a trick. Get your line
spliced at a rigging shop. Attach your jib halyard to the chain plate
and detach the roller furling. Put the line around the chain plate and
reattach the roller furling. Now, release the socket head screws that
hold the the lower shroud covering the sheave and place the line on
the sheave. replace the shroud and you're in business.


On Fri, 10 Oct 2003 21:44:18 GMT, "JR" wrote:

I have to change the continuous line on my Hood roller furler. Is there
instruction anywhere on splicing the line? Is that what I need to do? I got
the boat in July after Gatti Marine and Racine Riverside in Wisconsin messed
up the set-up (line installed backward/upside down). We struggled with it
waiting for the repair but Racine Riverside blew me off. Now in dry-dock,
the line could use a change, showing its wear. Any direction is much
appreciated. I'll no doubt have other questions as I seek to set her up
properly. Thanks.

Ryan

Continuous line replacement
 

Call Hood and get a manual for your model....

--=20
katysails
s/v Chanteuse
Kirie Elite 32
http://katysails.tripod.com

"Women and cats will do as they please, and men and dogs should relax
and get used to the idea." - Robert A. Heinlein

Continuous line replacement
 

Read for content , Simpleton. Temp rig the jib halyard as a forestay,
remove the forstay (furler) from the bow plate, place bight of endless
line around bow plate and reattach forestay (furler). The Hood LD was
a good simple furler that worked without fail on my 31 footer. Take
your hank ons and blow them out your ass with the rest of your advice.
As usual, your question shows your failure to understand how a boat is
rigged and your eagerness to demonstrate that failure regardless..



On Fri, 10 Oct 2003 19:15:30 -0400, "Simple Simon"
wrote:



How's he gonna get the spliced bight of line around the mast,
shrouds, etc?

Throw away that wind-up crap and get safe, simple and reliable
hank-on sails instead.

S.Simon


"Marc" wrote in message ...
Instructions for end splicing of braided line are available on line ,
just google. If you can't splice, here's a trick. Get your line
spliced at a rigging shop. Attach your jib halyard to the chain plate
and detach the roller furling. Put the line around the chain plate and
reattach the roller furling. Now, release the socket head screws that
hold the the lower shroud covering the sheave and place the line on
the sheave. replace the shroud and you're in business.


On Fri, 10 Oct 2003 21:44:18 GMT, "JR" wrote:

I have to change the continuous line on my Hood roller furler. Is there
instruction anywhere on splicing the line? Is that what I need to do? I got
the boat in July after Gatti Marine and Racine Riverside in Wisconsin messed
up the set-up (line installed backward/upside down). We struggled with it
waiting for the repair but Racine Riverside blew me off. Now in dry-dock,
the line could use a change, showing its wear. Any direction is much
appreciated. I'll no doubt have other questions as I seek to set her up
properly. Thanks.

Ryan

Continuous line replacement
 

Cappy thinks the furling line goes 'around' the boat... he is totally
unaware it can be run on either side.... thus his belief it must negotiate
the mast and shrouds.

CM

"Marc" wrote in message
...
| Read for content , Simpleton. Temp rig the jib halyard as a forestay,
| remove the forstay (furler) from the bow plate, place bight of endless
| line around bow plate and reattach forestay (furler). The Hood LD was
| a good simple furler that worked without fail on my 31 footer. Take
| your hank ons and blow them out your ass with the rest of your advice.
| As usual, your question shows your failure to understand how a boat is
| rigged and your eagerness to demonstrate that failure regardless..
|
|
|
| On Fri, 10 Oct 2003 19:15:30 -0400, "Simple Simon"
| wrote:
|
|
|
| How's he gonna get the spliced bight of line around the mast,
| shrouds, etc?
|
| Throw away that wind-up crap and get safe, simple and reliable
| hank-on sails instead.
|
| S.Simon
|
|
| "Marc" wrote in message
...
| Instructions for end splicing of braided line are available on line ,
| just google. If you can't splice, here's a trick. Get your line
| spliced at a rigging shop. Attach your jib halyard to the chain plate
| and detach the roller furling. Put the line around the chain plate and
| reattach the roller furling. Now, release the socket head screws that
| hold the the lower shroud covering the sheave and place the line on
| the sheave. replace the shroud and you're in business.
|
|
| On Fri, 10 Oct 2003 21:44:18 GMT, "JR" wrote:
|
| I have to change the continuous line on my Hood roller furler. Is
there
| instruction anywhere on splicing the line? Is that what I need to do?
I got
| the boat in July after Gatti Marine and Racine Riverside in Wisconsin
messed
| up the set-up (line installed backward/upside down). We struggled with
it
| waiting for the repair but Racine Riverside blew me off. Now in
dry-dock,
| the line could use a change, showing its wear. Any direction is much
| appreciated. I'll no doubt have other questions as I seek to set her
up
| properly. Thanks.
|
| Ryan
|
|
|
|

Continuous line replacement
 

Thanks - I was about to claim you could pass it under the keel!


"Capt. Mooron" wrote in message
...
Cappy thinks the furling line goes 'around' the boat... he is totally
unaware it can be run on either side.... thus his belief it must negotiate
the mast and shrouds.

CM

"Marc" wrote in message
...
| Read for content , Simpleton. Temp rig the jib halyard as a forestay,
| remove the forstay (furler) from the bow plate, place bight of endless
| line around bow plate and reattach forestay (furler). The Hood LD was
| a good simple furler that worked without fail on my 31 footer. Take
| your hank ons and blow them out your ass with the rest of your advice.
| As usual, your question shows your failure to understand how a boat is
| rigged and your eagerness to demonstrate that failure regardless..
|
|
|
| On Fri, 10 Oct 2003 19:15:30 -0400, "Simple Simon"
| wrote:
|
|
|
| How's he gonna get the spliced bight of line around the mast,
| shrouds, etc?
|
| Throw away that wind-up crap and get safe, simple and reliable
| hank-on sails instead.
|
| S.Simon
|
|
| "Marc" wrote in message
...
| Instructions for end splicing of braided line are available on line ,
| just google. If you can't splice, here's a trick. Get your line
| spliced at a rigging shop. Attach your jib halyard to the chain plate
| and detach the roller furling. Put the line around the chain plate and
| reattach the roller furling. Now, release the socket head screws that
| hold the the lower shroud covering the sheave and place the line on
| the sheave. replace the shroud and you're in business.
|
|
| On Fri, 10 Oct 2003 21:44:18 GMT, "JR" wrote:
|
| I have to change the continuous line on my Hood roller furler. Is
there
| instruction anywhere on splicing the line? Is that what I need to do?
I got
| the boat in July after Gatti Marine and Racine Riverside in Wisconsin
messed
| up the set-up (line installed backward/upside down). We struggled with
it
| waiting for the repair but Racine Riverside blew me off. Now in
dry-dock,
| the line could use a change, showing its wear. Any direction is much
| appreciated. I'll no doubt have other questions as I seek to set her
up
| properly. Thanks.
|
| Ryan
|
|
|
|

Continuous line replacement
 

Sorry for ruining it for you Jeff....:-)

CM

"Jeff Morris" jeffmo@NoSpam-sv-lokiDOTcom wrote in message
...
| Thanks - I was about to claim you could pass it under the keel!
|
|
| "Capt. Mooron" wrote in message
| ...
| Cappy thinks the furling line goes 'around' the boat... he is totally
| unaware it can be run on either side.... thus his belief it must
negotiate
| the mast and shrouds.
|
| CM
|
| "Marc" wrote in message
| ...
| | Read for content , Simpleton. Temp rig the jib halyard as a forestay,
| | remove the forstay (furler) from the bow plate, place bight of endless
| | line around bow plate and reattach forestay (furler). The Hood LD was
| | a good simple furler that worked without fail on my 31 footer. Take
| | your hank ons and blow them out your ass with the rest of your advice.
| | As usual, your question shows your failure to understand how a boat is
| | rigged and your eagerness to demonstrate that failure regardless..
| |
| |
| |
| | On Fri, 10 Oct 2003 19:15:30 -0400, "Simple Simon"
| | wrote:
| |
| |
| |
| | How's he gonna get the spliced bight of line around the mast,
| | shrouds, etc?
| |
| | Throw away that wind-up crap and get safe, simple and reliable
| | hank-on sails instead.
| |
| | S.Simon
| |
| |
| | "Marc" wrote in message
| ...
| | Instructions for end splicing of braided line are available on line
,
| | just google. If you can't splice, here's a trick. Get your line
| | spliced at a rigging shop. Attach your jib halyard to the chain
plate
| | and detach the roller furling. Put the line around the chain plate
and
| | reattach the roller furling. Now, release the socket head screws
that
| | hold the the lower shroud covering the sheave and place the line on
| | the sheave. replace the shroud and you're in business.
| |
| |
| | On Fri, 10 Oct 2003 21:44:18 GMT, "JR"
wrote:
| |
| | I have to change the continuous line on my Hood roller furler. Is
| there
| | instruction anywhere on splicing the line? Is that what I need to
do?
| I got
| | the boat in July after Gatti Marine and Racine Riverside in
Wisconsin
| messed
| | up the set-up (line installed backward/upside down). We struggled
with
| it
| | waiting for the repair but Racine Riverside blew me off. Now in
| dry-dock,
| | the line could use a change, showing its wear. Any direction is
much
| | appreciated. I'll no doubt have other questions as I seek to set
her
| up
| | properly. Thanks.
| |
| | Ryan
| |
| |
| |
| |
|
|
|
|

Continuous line replacement
 

I would contact Hood. I have a Hood furler on my Catalina, they sent me a
manual free of charge.
http://www.pompanette.com/pompweb.nsf/pages/hoodmain
John Cairns
"JR" wrote in message
. com...
I have to change the continuous line on my Hood roller furler. Is there
instruction anywhere on splicing the line? Is that what I need to do? I
got
the boat in July after Gatti Marine and Racine Riverside in Wisconsin
messed
up the set-up (line installed backward/upside down). We struggled with it
waiting for the repair but Racine Riverside blew me off. Now in dry-dock,
the line could use a change, showing its wear. Any direction is much
appreciated. I'll no doubt have other questions as I seek to set her up
properly. Thanks.

Ryan

Continuous line replacement
 

Thanks all. You guys and gals crack me up.

Ryan

"John Cairns" wrote in message
...
I would contact Hood. I have a Hood furler on my Catalina, they sent me a
manual free of charge.
http://www.pompanette.com/pompweb.nsf/pages/hoodmain
John Cairns
"JR" wrote in message
. com...
I have to change the continuous line on my Hood roller furler. Is there
instruction anywhere on splicing the line? Is that what I need to do? I
got
the boat in July after Gatti Marine and Racine Riverside in Wisconsin
messed
up the set-up (line installed backward/upside down). We struggled with
it
waiting for the repair but Racine Riverside blew me off. Now in
dry-dock,
the line could use a change, showing its wear. Any direction is much
appreciated. I'll no doubt have other questions as I seek to set her up
properly. Thanks.

Ryan

Continuous line replacement
 

I have a line-drive furler and the manual that came with it. If splicing the
line is the main problem, the manual won't help. It doesn't describe how to
do a splice.

Steve Thomas

"John Cairns" wrote in message
...
I would contact Hood. I have a Hood furler on my Catalina, they sent me a
manual free of charge.
http://www.pompanette.com/pompweb.nsf/pages/hoodmain
John Cairns
"JR" wrote in message
. com...
I have to change the continuous line on my Hood roller furler. Is there
instruction anywhere on splicing the line? Is that what I need to do? I
got
the boat in July after Gatti Marine and Racine Riverside in Wisconsin
messed
up the set-up (line installed backward/upside down). We struggled with
it
waiting for the repair but Racine Riverside blew me off. Now in
dry-dock,
the line could use a change, showing its wear. Any direction is much
appreciated. I'll no doubt have other questions as I seek to set her up
properly. Thanks.

Ryan

Continuous line replacement
 

Thanks all. You guys and gals crack me up.

Ryan

Gee, now I'm sad I gave you a straight answer....you were probably =
hoping we'd "putz" you or something for having the audacity to ask a =
real sailing question.

--=20
katysails
s/v Chanteuse
Kirie Elite 32
http://katysails.tripod.com

"Women and cats will do as they please, and men and dogs should relax
and get used to the idea." - Robert A. Heinlein

Continuous line replacement
 

Well You could of course...

Cheers MC

Jeff Morris wrote:
Thanks - I was about to claim you could pass it under the keel!


"Capt. Mooron" wrote in message
...

Cappy thinks the furling line goes 'around' the boat... he is totally
unaware it can be run on either side.... thus his belief it must negotiate
the mast and shrouds.

CM

"Marc" wrote in message
. ..
| Read for content , Simpleton. Temp rig the jib halyard as a forestay,
| remove the forstay (furler) from the bow plate, place bight of endless
| line around bow plate and reattach forestay (furler). The Hood LD was
| a good simple furler that worked without fail on my 31 footer. Take
| your hank ons and blow them out your ass with the rest of your advice.
| As usual, your question shows your failure to understand how a boat is
| rigged and your eagerness to demonstrate that failure regardless..
|
|
|
| On Fri, 10 Oct 2003 19:15:30 -0400, "Simple Simon"
| wrote:
|
|
|
| How's he gonna get the spliced bight of line around the mast,
| shrouds, etc?
|
| Throw away that wind-up crap and get safe, simple and reliable
| hank-on sails instead.
|
| S.Simon
|
|
| "Marc" wrote in message
. ..
| Instructions for end splicing of braided line are available on line ,
| just google. If you can't splice, here's a trick. Get your line
| spliced at a rigging shop. Attach your jib halyard to the chain plate
| and detach the roller furling. Put the line around the chain plate and
| reattach the roller furling. Now, release the socket head screws that
| hold the the lower shroud covering the sheave and place the line on
| the sheave. replace the shroud and you're in business.
|
|
| On Fri, 10 Oct 2003 21:44:18 GMT, "JR" wrote:
|
| I have to change the continuous line on my Hood roller furler. Is
there
| instruction anywhere on splicing the line? Is that what I need to do?
I got
| the boat in July after Gatti Marine and Racine Riverside in Wisconsin
messed
| up the set-up (line installed backward/upside down). We struggled with
it
| waiting for the repair but Racine Riverside blew me off. Now in
dry-dock,
| the line could use a change, showing its wear. Any direction is much
| appreciated. I'll no doubt have other questions as I seek to set her
up
| properly. Thanks.
|
| Ryan
|
|
|
|

Continuous line replacement
 

The original post started with changing the line, only mentioned splicing
once, and ended with the thought of changing the line.. You could splice the
line without changing it, but if the line is worn to the point that it would
need to be spliced, why bother? You might be able to disassemble the unit
without any visual aids, but it would probably be a good idea to call Hood
and have them send a free manual, if you don't want to pay for a replacement
line(continuous) then there are quite a few knot books on the market that
will show you how to do this. Better yet, call Hood and ask for the manual,
then ask the cost of the replacement line. You could then easily determine
if you wanted to use their replacement part or attempt to make your own.
John Cairns

"Steve Thomas" wrote in message
...
I have a line-drive furler and the manual that came with it. If splicing
the
line is the main problem, the manual won't help. It doesn't describe how
to
do a splice.

Steve Thomas

"John Cairns" wrote in message
...
I would contact Hood. I have a Hood furler on my Catalina, they sent me
a
manual free of charge.
http://www.pompanette.com/pompweb.nsf/pages/hoodmain
John Cairns
"JR" wrote in message
. com...
I have to change the continuous line on my Hood roller furler. Is
there
instruction anywhere on splicing the line? Is that what I need to do?
Now in
dry-dock,
the line could use a change, showing its wear. Any direction is much
appreciated. I'll no doubt have other questions as I seek to set her
up
properly. Thanks.

Ryan

Continuous line replacement
 

Better yet, get rid of all that sissy, high maintenance, prone to failure,
unsightly, roll-up crap. Hank-on sails are markedly superior and totally
trouble-free.

S.Simon - uses real sails not some woman's version patterned
after a window shade.


"John Cairns" wrote in message ...
The original post started with changing the line, only mentioned splicing
once, and ended with the thought of changing the line.. You could splice the
line without changing it, but if the line is worn to the point that it would
need to be spliced, why bother? You might be able to disassemble the unit
without any visual aids, but it would probably be a good idea to call Hood
and have them send a free manual, if you don't want to pay for a replacement
line(continuous) then there are quite a few knot books on the market that
will show you how to do this. Better yet, call Hood and ask for the manual,
then ask the cost of the replacement line. You could then easily determine
if you wanted to use their replacement part or attempt to make your own.
John Cairns

"Steve Thomas" wrote in message
...
I have a line-drive furler and the manual that came with it. If splicing
the
line is the main problem, the manual won't help. It doesn't describe how
to
do a splice.

Steve Thomas

"John Cairns" wrote in message
...
I would contact Hood. I have a Hood furler on my Catalina, they sent me
a
manual free of charge.
http://www.pompanette.com/pompweb.nsf/pages/hoodmain
John Cairns
"JR" wrote in message
. com...
I have to change the continuous line on my Hood roller furler. Is
there
instruction anywhere on splicing the line? Is that what I need to do?
Now in
dry-dock,
the line could use a change, showing its wear. Any direction is much
appreciated. I'll no doubt have other questions as I seek to set her
up
properly. Thanks.

Ryan

Continuous line replacement
 

"Simple Simon" wrote in message
...
Better yet, get rid of all that sissy, high maintenance, prone to failure,
unsightly, roll-up crap. Hank-on sails are markedly superior and totally
trouble-free.

S.Simon - uses real sails not some woman's version patterned
after a window shade.

Sissy like this guy, maybe?
http://www.aroundalone2002.com/

Or maybe these folks.
http://www.transat650.org/

I know you're a HUGE fan of the French.
http://www.vendeeglobe.com/

Next time you sail around the Horn with your hank-on sails, let us know.
John Cairns

Continuous line replacement
 

You just proved my point for there are no bigger, spoiled brat,
sailing-(and capsizing)-boats-way-too-big-for-one-person-to-handle
sissies than racers - especially French racers. Anytime any piece
of equipment allows unseamanlike practices to proliferate it tells
me and any other sane individual that it's certainly not a good thing.

The ONLY reason racers use roll-ups is they cannot possibly
hand real sails. That does not mean roll-ups are superior in any
way, shape or form to safe, reliable, tried and true hank-on sails
that all sensible cruisers should be using.

All NASCAR racers use roll cages and four point seat belts
and welded shut doors and fuel cells. They wear Nomex
suits.

Does that mean all automobile owners should install that crap
in their cars and invest in Nomex suits? No it doesn't. In the
same way sensible cruisers will sail a boat within their abilities
to single-handedly sail safely and this means hank-on sails are
the best choice.

S.Simon


"John Cairns" wrote in message ...

"Simple Simon" wrote in message
...
Better yet, get rid of all that sissy, high maintenance, prone to failure,
unsightly, roll-up crap. Hank-on sails are markedly superior and totally
trouble-free.

S.Simon - uses real sails not some woman's version patterned
after a window shade.

Sissy like this guy, maybe?
http://www.aroundalone2002.com/

Or maybe these folks.
http://www.transat650.org/

I know you're a HUGE fan of the French.
http://www.vendeeglobe.com/

Next time you sail around the Horn with your hank-on sails, let us know.
John Cairns

Continuous line replacement
 

Are you saying a luff foil does not improve sail performance?

Cheers MC

Simple Simon wrote:
You just proved my point for there are no bigger, spoiled brat,
sailing-(and capsizing)-boats-way-too-big-for-one-person-to-handle
sissies than racers - especially French racers. Anytime any piece
of equipment allows unseamanlike practices to proliferate it tells
me and any other sane individual that it's certainly not a good thing.

The ONLY reason racers use roll-ups is they cannot possibly
hand real sails. That does not mean roll-ups are superior in any
way, shape or form to safe, reliable, tried and true hank-on sails
that all sensible cruisers should be using.

All NASCAR racers use roll cages and four point seat belts
and welded shut doors and fuel cells. They wear Nomex
suits.

Does that mean all automobile owners should install that crap
in their cars and invest in Nomex suits? No it doesn't. In the
same way sensible cruisers will sail a boat within their abilities
to single-handedly sail safely and this means hank-on sails are
the best choice.

S.Simon


"John Cairns" wrote in message ...

"Simple Simon" wrote in message
...

Better yet, get rid of all that sissy, high maintenance, prone to failure,
unsightly, roll-up crap. Hank-on sails are markedly superior and totally
trouble-free.

S.Simon - uses real sails not some woman's version patterned
after a window shade.


Sissy like this guy, maybe?
http://www.aroundalone2002.com/

Or maybe these folks.
http://www.transat650.org/

I know you're a HUGE fan of the French.
http://www.vendeeglobe.com/

Next time you sail around the Horn with your hank-on sails, let us know.
John Cairns

Continuous line replacement
 

I said no such thing. I only said that roll-ups are for
sissies and wannabe racers. They make no sense at
all for cruising sailors because they represent extra
expense, extra risk of failure, extra complication
and worst of all they are just plain ugly. Most are
very inefficient unless unrolled all the way and since
they are generally made way large they need to be
partially rolled a good deal of the time. They are
crap and there's no arguing the fact.

S.Simon - nothing but real sails aboard my yacht.


"The_navigator©" wrote in message ...
Are you saying a luff foil does not improve sail performance?

Cheers MC

Simple Simon wrote:
You just proved my point for there are no bigger, spoiled brat,
sailing-(and capsizing)-boats-way-too-big-for-one-person-to-handle
sissies than racers - especially French racers. Anytime any piece
of equipment allows unseamanlike practices to proliferate it tells
me and any other sane individual that it's certainly not a good thing.

The ONLY reason racers use roll-ups is they cannot possibly
hand real sails. That does not mean roll-ups are superior in any
way, shape or form to safe, reliable, tried and true hank-on sails
that all sensible cruisers should be using.

All NASCAR racers use roll cages and four point seat belts
and welded shut doors and fuel cells. They wear Nomex
suits.

Does that mean all automobile owners should install that crap
in their cars and invest in Nomex suits? No it doesn't. In the
same way sensible cruisers will sail a boat within their abilities
to single-handedly sail safely and this means hank-on sails are
the best choice.

S.Simon


"John Cairns" wrote in message ...

"Simple Simon" wrote in message
...

Better yet, get rid of all that sissy, high maintenance, prone to failure,
unsightly, roll-up crap. Hank-on sails are markedly superior and totally
trouble-free.

S.Simon - uses real sails not some woman's version patterned
after a window shade.


Sissy like this guy, maybe?
http://www.aroundalone2002.com/

Or maybe these folks.
http://www.transat650.org/

I know you're a HUGE fan of the French.
http://www.vendeeglobe.com/

Next time you sail around the Horn with your hank-on sails, let us know.
John Cairns

Continuous line replacement
 

"Simple Simon" wrote:
S.Simon - uses real sails not some woman's version patterned
after a window shade.

Like you would know how a woman decorates in this century...

Let me give you a hint, sweetheart... I sold my mauve leather sofa
and loveseat. Now I have a alabaster leather sofa/loveseat with four
recliners.

You need to get a new decorator, Neil...a yellow boat with mauve
cushions don't match...

LP

Continuous line replacement
 

"Simple Simon" wrote:

Does that mean all automobile owners should install that crap
in their cars and invest in Nomex suits?
S.Simon


Well, if you are flying for the US Forest guys and putting out fires,
the answer is yes. You have to buy Nomex.

LP

Continuous line replacement
 

"Simple Simon" wrote in message
...
..

The ONLY reason racers use roll-ups is they cannot possibly
hand real sails. That does not mean roll-ups are superior in any
way, shape or form to safe, reliable, tried and true hank-on sails
that all sensible cruisers should be using.

Gee, and all this time I thought it was sensible not to go to the bow to
reduce sail area when it's blowing like stink and the seas are up to 30'. I
should write a letter to those race organizers protesting their absolutely
dismal safety practices.


All NASCAR racers use roll cages and four point seat belts
and welded shut doors and fuel cells. They wear Nomex
suits.

Does that mean all automobile owners should install that crap
in their cars and invest in Nomex suits? No it doesn't. In the
same way sensible cruisers will sail a boat within their abilities
to single-handedly sail safely and this means hank-on sails are
the best choice.

So they should probably make seat belts in passenger vehicles optional. The
government shouldn't test vehicles for crash worthiness, so what if the roof
collapses when you have a roll over accident. That stuff about vehicle gas
tanks rupturing is just sissy stuff that the average consumer shouldn't
worry about. A final thought, there must be quite a few senseless cruisers,
I can't recall the last time I saw a cruising boat built in the last 20
years that didn't have roller furling as an option. The only drawback that
comes to mind is it is something you wouldn't be able to slap together from
bits of scrap metal.
John Cairns
S.Simon


"John Cairns" wrote in message
...

"Simple Simon" wrote in message
...
Better yet, get rid of all that sissy, high maintenance, prone to
failure,
unsightly, roll-up crap. Hank-on sails are markedly superior and
totally
trouble-free.

S.Simon - uses real sails not some woman's version patterned
after a window shade.

Sissy like this guy, maybe?
http://www.aroundalone2002.com/

Or maybe these folks.
http://www.transat650.org/

I know you're a HUGE fan of the French.
http://www.vendeeglobe.com/

Next time you sail around the Horn with your hank-on sails, let us know.
John Cairns

Continuous line replacement
 

You need to get a new decorator, Neil...a yellow boat with mauve
cushions don't match...

And that isn't all...his canvas is all marine bright blue...throw in =
some hot pink and he'd have a calliope wagon....

--=20
katysails
s/v Chanteuse
Kirie Elite 32
http://katysails.tripod.com

"Women and cats will do as they please, and men and dogs should relax
and get used to the idea." - Robert A. Heinlein

Continuous line replacement
 

I think that one could argue that one should reduce sail
in advance of conditions such as the one you describe.
However, I have sailed many miles with furlers and
never had a problem. They are a safe and reliable tool.
We don't use them on our teaching boats for a couple of
reasons mainly. They're expensive and we're on a limited
budget. We want students to know what it takes to change
head sails, and we want them to know how to plan in
advance to do that.

"kim cairns" wrote in message
...

"Simple Simon" wrote in message
...
.

The ONLY reason racers use roll-ups is they cannot possibly
hand real sails. That does not mean roll-ups are superior in any
way, shape or form to safe, reliable, tried and true hank-on sails
that all sensible cruisers should be using.

Gee, and all this time I thought it was sensible not to go to the bow to
reduce sail area when it's blowing like stink and the seas are up to 30'.
I
should write a letter to those race organizers protesting their absolutely
dismal safety practices.


All NASCAR racers use roll cages and four point seat belts
and welded shut doors and fuel cells. They wear Nomex
suits.

Does that mean all automobile owners should install that crap
in their cars and invest in Nomex suits? No it doesn't. In the
same way sensible cruisers will sail a boat within their abilities
to single-handedly sail safely and this means hank-on sails are
the best choice.

So they should probably make seat belts in passenger vehicles optional.
The
government shouldn't test vehicles for crash worthiness, so what if the
roof
collapses when you have a roll over accident. That stuff about vehicle gas
tanks rupturing is just sissy stuff that the average consumer shouldn't
worry about. A final thought, there must be quite a few senseless
cruisers,
I can't recall the last time I saw a cruising boat built in the last 20
years that didn't have roller furling as an option. The only drawback that
comes to mind is it is something you wouldn't be able to slap together
from
bits of scrap metal.
John Cairns
S.Simon


"John Cairns" wrote in message
...

"Simple Simon" wrote in message
...
Better yet, get rid of all that sissy, high maintenance, prone to
failure,
unsightly, roll-up crap. Hank-on sails are markedly superior and
totally
trouble-free.

S.Simon - uses real sails not some woman's version patterned
after a window shade.

Sissy like this guy, maybe?
http://www.aroundalone2002.com/

Or maybe these folks.
http://www.transat650.org/

I know you're a HUGE fan of the French.
http://www.vendeeglobe.com/

Next time you sail around the Horn with your hank-on sails, let us
know.
John Cairns

Continuous line replacement
 

And YOU need to be bitch slapped!!

S.Simon


"Lady Pilot" wrote in message ...

"Simple Simon" wrote:
S.Simon - uses real sails not some woman's version patterned
after a window shade.

Like you would know how a woman decorates in this century...

Let me give you a hint, sweetheart... I sold my mauve leather sofa
and loveseat. Now I have a alabaster leather sofa/loveseat with four
recliners.

You need to get a new decorator, Neil...a yellow boat with mauve
cushions don't match...

LP

Continuous line replacement
 

Absolutely correct. One should have hanked or foiled sails on a training
vessel. I have never had any problems with my furler, the only person I know
of that had any problems had a damaged unit that they didn't fix. Another
point that SS ignores, they (and other labor saving devices) allow people to
sail at an age that they otherwise might not be able to. I hadn't thought of
this until one of our local club members mentioned that they had in-mast
furling on their 40' Beneteau, with the aside that it made sailing the boat
easier. If not for these devices, these folks might be sailing a trawler.
John Cairns
"Jonathan Ganz" wrote in message
...
I think that one could argue that one should reduce sail
in advance of conditions such as the one you describe.
However, I have sailed many miles with furlers and
never had a problem. They are a safe and reliable tool.
We don't use them on our teaching boats for a couple of
reasons mainly. They're expensive and we're on a limited
budget. We want students to know what it takes to change
head sails, and we want them to know how to plan in
advance to do that.

"kim cairns" wrote in message
...

"Simple Simon" wrote in message
...
.

The ONLY reason racers use roll-ups is they cannot possibly
hand real sails. That does not mean roll-ups are superior in any
way, shape or form to safe, reliable, tried and true hank-on sails
that all sensible cruisers should be using.

Gee, and all this time I thought it was sensible not to go to the bow to
reduce sail area when it's blowing like stink and the seas are up to
30'.
I
should write a letter to those race organizers protesting their
absolutely
dismal safety practices.


All NASCAR racers use roll cages and four point seat belts
and welded shut doors and fuel cells. They wear Nomex
suits.

Does that mean all automobile owners should install that crap
in their cars and invest in Nomex suits? No it doesn't. In the
same way sensible cruisers will sail a boat within their abilities
to single-handedly sail safely and this means hank-on sails are
the best choice.

So they should probably make seat belts in passenger vehicles optional.
The
government shouldn't test vehicles for crash worthiness, so what if the
roof
collapses when you have a roll over accident. That stuff about vehicle
gas
tanks rupturing is just sissy stuff that the average consumer shouldn't
worry about. A final thought, there must be quite a few senseless
cruisers,
I can't recall the last time I saw a cruising boat built in the last 20
years that didn't have roller furling as an option. The only drawback
that
comes to mind is it is something you wouldn't be able to slap together
from
bits of scrap metal.
John Cairns
S.Simon


"John Cairns" wrote in message
...

"Simple Simon" wrote in message
...
Better yet, get rid of all that sissy, high maintenance, prone to
failure,
unsightly, roll-up crap. Hank-on sails are markedly superior and
totally
trouble-free.

S.Simon - uses real sails not some woman's version patterned
after a window shade.

Sissy like this guy, maybe?
http://www.aroundalone2002.com/

Or maybe these folks.
http://www.transat650.org/

I know you're a HUGE fan of the French.
http://www.vendeeglobe.com/

Next time you sail around the Horn with your hank-on sails, let us
know.
John Cairns

Continuous line replacement
 

Be sure to wipe that blade down when you pull it out of the flesh like
that...

LP

"katysails" wrote:
You need to get a new decorator, Neil...a yellow boat with mauve
cushions don't match...

And that isn't all...his canvas is all marine bright blue...throw in
some hot pink and he'd have a calliope wagon....

--
katysails

Continuous line replacement
 

"Simple Simon" wrote:
And YOU need to be bitch slapped!!

Are you telling me your a bitch and you want to slap me? snicker

LP (better watch that blood pressure)

Continuous line replacement
 

Katy is stupid. If she ever went sailing she'd know
you can't see the yellow and the mauve at the same
time.

S.Simon


"Lady Pilot" wrote in message news:WMkkb.2927$B_2.1402@okepread02...
Be sure to wipe that blade down when you pull it out of the flesh like
that...

LP

"katysails" wrote:
You need to get a new decorator, Neil...a yellow boat with mauve
cushions don't match...

And that isn't all...his canvas is all marine bright blue...throw in
some hot pink and he'd have a calliope wagon....

--
katysails

Continuous line replacement
 

How would you like a trip to the moon?

BP was 117/73 today after my workout.
Weight down to 180 lbs - only ten pounds
to go.

You'd like me if you met me in person.

S.Simon


"Lady Pilot" wrote in message news:RNkkb.2928$B_2.2205@okepread02...

"Simple Simon" wrote:
And YOU need to be bitch slapped!!

Are you telling me your a bitch and you want to slap me? snicker

LP (better watch that blood pressure)

Continuous line replacement
 

"Simple Simon" wrote:

How would you like a trip to the moon?

No thanks. But Nova Scotia would be nice. :-D

BP was 117/73 today after my workout.
Weight down to 180 lbs - only ten pounds
to go.

You'd like me if you met me in person.

Your not a curmudgeon in real life?

LP