Read for content , Simpleton. Temp rig the jib halyard as a forestay,
remove the forstay (furler) from the bow plate, place bight of endless
line around bow plate and reattach forestay (furler). The Hood LD was
a good simple furler that worked without fail on my 31 footer. Take
your hank ons and blow them out your ass with the rest of your advice.
As usual, your question shows your failure to understand how a boat is
rigged and your eagerness to demonstrate that failure regardless..



On Fri, 10 Oct 2003 19:15:30 -0400, "Simple Simon"
wrote:



How's he gonna get the spliced bight of line around the mast,
shrouds, etc?

Throw away that wind-up crap and get safe, simple and reliable
hank-on sails instead.

S.Simon


"Marc" wrote in message ...
Instructions for end splicing of braided line are available on line ,
just google. If you can't splice, here's a trick. Get your line
spliced at a rigging shop. Attach your jib halyard to the chain plate
and detach the roller furling. Put the line around the chain plate and
reattach the roller furling. Now, release the socket head screws that
hold the the lower shroud covering the sheave and place the line on
the sheave. replace the shroud and you're in business.


On Fri, 10 Oct 2003 21:44:18 GMT, "JR" wrote:

I have to change the continuous line on my Hood roller furler. Is there
instruction anywhere on splicing the line? Is that what I need to do? I got
the boat in July after Gatti Marine and Racine Riverside in Wisconsin messed
up the set-up (line installed backward/upside down). We struggled with it
waiting for the repair but Racine Riverside blew me off. Now in dry-dock,
the line could use a change, showing its wear. Any direction is much
appreciated. I'll no doubt have other questions as I seek to set her up
properly. Thanks.

Ryan