best way to patch a thru hull?
 

I had an illegal head on my Cal 20. For that boat, I cut out the fitting,
then somewhat closely matched a piece of wood to the hole. Then,
filled in the gaps with 5200, then glassed over the whole thing from
both sides. I don't know if that was the best way to do it, but it
doesn't leak and I suspect it's stronger than the rest of the hull.

Is there another method that's as or more effective?

Jonathan

best way to patch a thru hull?
 

Jonathan Ganz wrote:

I had an illegal head on my Cal 20. For that boat, I cut out the fitting,
then somewhat closely matched a piece of wood to the hole. Then,
filled in the gaps with 5200, then glassed over the whole thing from
both sides. I don't know if that was the best way to do it, but it
doesn't leak and I suspect it's stronger than the rest of the hull.

Is there another method that's as or more effective?

Sure. Just fiberglass over the whole thing, then fair it.

I filled in a thru-hull in our tugboat this spring, which gave an opportunity
to check the hull lay-up (3/4" thick) also. Using a side grinder to create a
hollow area inside & out, then I taped a piece of wax paper over the outside
of the hole, then used WEST system resin & low density filler to fill the
hole, then put three layers of 28oz cloth with bonding filler on the inside.
Then I put on another three layers of heavy cloth plus some lighter stuff,
and used the side grinder again to smooth it over. There is no doubt that
this patch is stronger than the rest of the hull, and thoroughly bonded.

Here is a picture of the inside of the finished patch. That yellowish thready
on the left
http://community.webshots.com/photo/...73346002sUSTvu

A side grinder is a GREAT tool, but I used up a lot of expensive masks &
respirators (to protect my even-more-expensive lungs).

Why did you use 5200 inside a layer of fiberglass? Why not just glue the wood
in place with resin? BTW it's a good idea to cut away a tapered area around
the hole for better bonding.

Fresh Breezes- Doug King

best way to patch a thru hull?
 

Thanks for the pic and the advice. I used the 5200 to make
sure I got all the gaps filled in, though I guess it was overkill.

I'm not sure what you mean about leaving a tapered area
around the hole. Why would this give it better bonding?


"DSK" wrote in message
...


Jonathan Ganz wrote:

I had an illegal head on my Cal 20. For that boat, I cut out the
fitting,
then somewhat closely matched a piece of wood to the hole. Then,
filled in the gaps with 5200, then glassed over the whole thing from
both sides. I don't know if that was the best way to do it, but it
doesn't leak and I suspect it's stronger than the rest of the hull.

Is there another method that's as or more effective?

Sure. Just fiberglass over the whole thing, then fair it.

I filled in a thru-hull in our tugboat this spring, which gave an
opportunity
to check the hull lay-up (3/4" thick) also. Using a side grinder to create
a
hollow area inside & out, then I taped a piece of wax paper over the
outside
of the hole, then used WEST system resin & low density filler to fill the
hole, then put three layers of 28oz cloth with bonding filler on the
inside.
Then I put on another three layers of heavy cloth plus some lighter
stuff,
and used the side grinder again to smooth it over. There is no doubt that
this patch is stronger than the rest of the hull, and thoroughly bonded.

Here is a picture of the inside of the finished patch. That yellowish
thready
on the left
http://community.webshots.com/photo/...73346002sUSTvu

A side grinder is a GREAT tool, but I used up a lot of expensive masks &
respirators (to protect my even-more-expensive lungs).

Why did you use 5200 inside a layer of fiberglass? Why not just glue the
wood
in place with resin? BTW it's a good idea to cut away a tapered area
around
the hole for better bonding.

Fresh Breezes- Doug King

best way to patch a thru hull?
 

The proper way to patch a thru-hull hole in a GRP hull is
with polyesther resin and not epoxy resin.

The hole should be tapered in a radius of approximately
four times the radius of the hole itself. In other words if
the hole is two inches the taper should be eight inches.

The taper should be made on both the inside and the
outside of the hull equally. One should then attempt to
determine the layup schedule of the hull and duplicate it
with roving, mat, etc. one should first repair the outside
of the hull. This is the difficult part because one must
work upside down. The secret is to cut the layers to
size, wet them sparingly with resin and keep them in
order of application from small to large to fill the tapered
hole layer by layer rolling with a roller with light pressure
to remove all bubbles. Once the area is filled, a thin, smooth,
flexible board covered with wax paper should be pressed
against the hull and secured there with a jack stand and wedges
so it conforms to the shape of the hull. The area should be
allowed to set up for a couple hours.

Then the inside of the hull can be repaired. This is the easy part.
Wet out the cut-to-size layers and apply layer by layer
using a roller to remove all air bubbles. Go easy on the
resin. If you have resin streams draining down the inside
of the hull the cloth and mat is too wet. Let the resin kick
off for about four hours. The outside wooden form can
be removed. Allow a day before doing any final sanding
or grinding to smooth the surfaces. It might be a good
idea to apply a couple layers of barrier coat to the
patch to keep water away from it to eliminate possible
osmotic blisters in the future.

I hope this helps.

S.Simon - learned how to fill in thru-hull holes when working
for Irwin Yachts.



"Jonathan Ganz" wrote in message ...

Thanks for the pic and the advice. I used the 5200 to make
sure I got all the gaps filled in, though I guess it was overkill.

I'm not sure what you mean about leaving a tapered area
around the hole. Why would this give it better bonding?


"DSK" wrote in message
...


Jonathan Ganz wrote:

I had an illegal head on my Cal 20. For that boat, I cut out the
fitting,
then somewhat closely matched a piece of wood to the hole. Then,
filled in the gaps with 5200, then glassed over the whole thing from
both sides. I don't know if that was the best way to do it, but it
doesn't leak and I suspect it's stronger than the rest of the hull.

Is there another method that's as or more effective?

Sure. Just fiberglass over the whole thing, then fair it.

I filled in a thru-hull in our tugboat this spring, which gave an
opportunity
to check the hull lay-up (3/4" thick) also. Using a side grinder to create
a
hollow area inside & out, then I taped a piece of wax paper over the
outside
of the hole, then used WEST system resin & low density filler to fill the
hole, then put three layers of 28oz cloth with bonding filler on the
inside.
Then I put on another three layers of heavy cloth plus some lighter
stuff,
and used the side grinder again to smooth it over. There is no doubt that
this patch is stronger than the rest of the hull, and thoroughly bonded.

Here is a picture of the inside of the finished patch. That yellowish
thready
on the left
http://community.webshots.com/photo/...73346002sUSTvu

A side grinder is a GREAT tool, but I used up a lot of expensive masks &
respirators (to protect my even-more-expensive lungs).

Why did you use 5200 inside a layer of fiberglass? Why not just glue the
wood
in place with resin? BTW it's a good idea to cut away a tapered area
around
the hole for better bonding.

Fresh Breezes- Doug King

best way to patch a thru hull?
 

Jonathan Ganz wrote:

I'm not sure what you mean about leaving a tapered area
around the hole. Why would this give it better bonding?

Feather the edge so it looks like a shallow countersink. It'll give a
greater surface area for adhesive to bond to, and, if you're filling the
space with something solid, make it large and feather it to match. The
instructions on tins of car body filler give an idea of the shape.


--
Wally
www.makearatherlonglinkthattakesyounowhere.com
Things are always clearer in the cold, post-upload light.

best way to patch a thru hull?
 

Jonathan Ganz wrote:
I'm not sure what you mean about leaving a tapered area
around the hole. Why would this give it better bonding?


Wally wrote:
Feather the edge so it looks like a shallow countersink. It'll give a
greater surface area for adhesive to bond to, and, if you're filling the
space with something solid, make it large and feather it to match. The
instructions on tins of car body filler give an idea of the shape.

It also gives a better, rougher bonding surface, also IMHO exposing raw
threads of the old laminate, you can bond directly to the cloth.


Simple Simon wrote:

The proper way to patch a thru-hull hole in a GRP hull is
with polyesther resin and not epoxy resin.

Malarkey. Epoxy will form a stronger bond to polyester than polyester will
bond to itself. Furthermore, unless the surface is just right it is
difficult to get polyester to form a secondary bond (ie, bonding to an
already cured surface). Polyester is affected by temperature & humidity more
than polyester. Epoxy has a longer shelf life than polyester and is less
sensitive to mix ratio.

In short, there are many reasons why it's smart to use epoxy rather than
polyester resin.



The hole should be tapered in a radius of approximately
four times the radius of the hole itself.

Malarkey again.

The taper should be between 4:1 to 12:1 by thickness, the diameter of the
hole has nothing to do with it.

Fresh Breezes- Doug King

best way to patch a thru hull?
 

Why poly vs. epoxy? What are the tradeoffs?

"Simple Simon" wrote in message
...
The proper way to patch a thru-hull hole in a GRP hull is
with polyesther resin and not epoxy resin.

Seems like overkill if it's just to provide a better adhesion
area.

The hole should be tapered in a radius of approximately
four times the radius of the hole itself. In other words if
the hole is two inches the taper should be eight inches.

The taper should be made on both the inside and the
outside of the hull equally. One should then attempt to
determine the layup schedule of the hull and duplicate it
with roving, mat, etc. one should first repair the outside
of the hull. This is the difficult part because one must
work upside down. The secret is to cut the layers to
size, wet them sparingly with resin and keep them in
order of application from small to large to fill the tapered
hole layer by layer rolling with a roller with light pressure
to remove all bubbles. Once the area is filled, a thin, smooth,
flexible board covered with wax paper should be pressed
against the hull and secured there with a jack stand and wedges
so it conforms to the shape of the hull. The area should be
allowed to set up for a couple hours.

Osmotic blisters on the inside?

Then the inside of the hull can be repaired. This is the easy part.
Wet out the cut-to-size layers and apply layer by layer
using a roller to remove all air bubbles. Go easy on the
resin. If you have resin streams draining down the inside
of the hull the cloth and mat is too wet. Let the resin kick
off for about four hours. The outside wooden form can
be removed. Allow a day before doing any final sanding
or grinding to smooth the surfaces. It might be a good
idea to apply a couple layers of barrier coat to the
patch to keep water away from it to eliminate possible
osmotic blisters in the future.

I hope this helps.

S.Simon - learned how to fill in thru-hull holes when working
for Irwin Yachts.



"Jonathan Ganz" wrote in message
...

Thanks for the pic and the advice. I used the 5200 to make
sure I got all the gaps filled in, though I guess it was overkill.

I'm not sure what you mean about leaving a tapered area
around the hole. Why would this give it better bonding?


"DSK" wrote in message
...


Jonathan Ganz wrote:

I had an illegal head on my Cal 20. For that boat, I cut out the
fitting,
then somewhat closely matched a piece of wood to the hole. Then,
filled in the gaps with 5200, then glassed over the whole thing from
both sides. I don't know if that was the best way to do it, but it
doesn't leak and I suspect it's stronger than the rest of the hull.

Is there another method that's as or more effective?

Sure. Just fiberglass over the whole thing, then fair it.

I filled in a thru-hull in our tugboat this spring, which gave an
opportunity
to check the hull lay-up (3/4" thick) also. Using a side grinder to
create
a
hollow area inside & out, then I taped a piece of wax paper over the
outside
of the hole, then used WEST system resin & low density filler to fill
the
hole, then put three layers of 28oz cloth with bonding filler on the
inside.
Then I put on another three layers of heavy cloth plus some lighter
stuff,
and used the side grinder again to smooth it over. There is no doubt
that
this patch is stronger than the rest of the hull, and thoroughly
bonded.

Here is a picture of the inside of the finished patch. That yellowish
thready
on the left
http://community.webshots.com/photo/...73346002sUSTvu

A side grinder is a GREAT tool, but I used up a lot of expensive masks
&
respirators (to protect my even-more-expensive lungs).

Why did you use 5200 inside a layer of fiberglass? Why not just glue
the
wood
in place with resin? BTW it's a good idea to cut away a tapered area
around
the hole for better bonding.

Fresh Breezes- Doug King

best way to patch a thru hull?
 

Got it... thanks

"Wally" wrote in message
...
Jonathan Ganz wrote:

I'm not sure what you mean about leaving a tapered area
around the hole. Why would this give it better bonding?

Feather the edge so it looks like a shallow countersink. It'll give a
greater surface area for adhesive to bond to, and, if you're filling the
space with something solid, make it large and feather it to match. The
instructions on tins of car body filler give an idea of the shape.


--
Wally
www.makearatherlonglinkthattakesyounowhere.com
Things are always clearer in the cold, post-upload light.

best way to patch a thru hull?
 

One should consider things like coefficient of expansion,
for example. Polyester on the same has all the same
characteristics. Epoxy does not. Take flex, for example,
It's nice to know your patch will flex the same as the
hull it is attached to. Would you patch an aluminum
airplane wing with stainless steel? I think not.

S.Simon - materials expert


"Jonathan Ganz" wrote in message ...
Why poly vs. epoxy? What are the tradeoffs?

"Simple Simon" wrote in message
...
The proper way to patch a thru-hull hole in a GRP hull is
with polyesther resin and not epoxy resin.

Seems like overkill if it's just to provide a better adhesion
area.

The hole should be tapered in a radius of approximately
four times the radius of the hole itself. In other words if
the hole is two inches the taper should be eight inches.

The taper should be made on both the inside and the
outside of the hull equally. One should then attempt to
determine the layup schedule of the hull and duplicate it
with roving, mat, etc. one should first repair the outside
of the hull. This is the difficult part because one must
work upside down. The secret is to cut the layers to
size, wet them sparingly with resin and keep them in
order of application from small to large to fill the tapered
hole layer by layer rolling with a roller with light pressure
to remove all bubbles. Once the area is filled, a thin, smooth,
flexible board covered with wax paper should be pressed
against the hull and secured there with a jack stand and wedges
so it conforms to the shape of the hull. The area should be
allowed to set up for a couple hours.

Osmotic blisters on the inside?

Then the inside of the hull can be repaired. This is the easy part.
Wet out the cut-to-size layers and apply layer by layer
using a roller to remove all air bubbles. Go easy on the
resin. If you have resin streams draining down the inside
of the hull the cloth and mat is too wet. Let the resin kick
off for about four hours. The outside wooden form can
be removed. Allow a day before doing any final sanding
or grinding to smooth the surfaces. It might be a good
idea to apply a couple layers of barrier coat to the
patch to keep water away from it to eliminate possible
osmotic blisters in the future.

I hope this helps.

S.Simon - learned how to fill in thru-hull holes when working
for Irwin Yachts.



"Jonathan Ganz" wrote in message
...

Thanks for the pic and the advice. I used the 5200 to make
sure I got all the gaps filled in, though I guess it was overkill.

I'm not sure what you mean about leaving a tapered area
around the hole. Why would this give it better bonding?


"DSK" wrote in message
...


Jonathan Ganz wrote:

I had an illegal head on my Cal 20. For that boat, I cut out the
fitting,
then somewhat closely matched a piece of wood to the hole. Then,
filled in the gaps with 5200, then glassed over the whole thing from
both sides. I don't know if that was the best way to do it, but it
doesn't leak and I suspect it's stronger than the rest of the hull.

Is there another method that's as or more effective?

Sure. Just fiberglass over the whole thing, then fair it.

I filled in a thru-hull in our tugboat this spring, which gave an
opportunity
to check the hull lay-up (3/4" thick) also. Using a side grinder to
create
a
hollow area inside & out, then I taped a piece of wax paper over the
outside
of the hole, then used WEST system resin & low density filler to fill
the
hole, then put three layers of 28oz cloth with bonding filler on the
inside.
Then I put on another three layers of heavy cloth plus some lighter
stuff,
and used the side grinder again to smooth it over. There is no doubt
that
this patch is stronger than the rest of the hull, and thoroughly
bonded.

Here is a picture of the inside of the finished patch. That yellowish
thready
on the left
http://community.webshots.com/photo/...73346002sUSTvu

A side grinder is a GREAT tool, but I used up a lot of expensive masks
&
respirators (to protect my even-more-expensive lungs).

Why did you use 5200 inside a layer of fiberglass? Why not just glue
the
wood
in place with resin? BTW it's a good idea to cut away a tapered area
around
the hole for better bonding.

Fresh Breezes- Doug King

best way to patch a thru hull?
 

Interesting idea, but everyone else I've talked to recommends
an epoxy patch. Unless it's a vast left-wing conspiracy, they
(including boat builders) must have a reason. I'll have to ask
one of them.

"Simple Simon" wrote in message
...
One should consider things like coefficient of expansion,
for example. Polyester on the same has all the same
characteristics. Epoxy does not. Take flex, for example,
It's nice to know your patch will flex the same as the
hull it is attached to. Would you patch an aluminum
airplane wing with stainless steel? I think not.

S.Simon - materials expert


"Jonathan Ganz" wrote in message
...
Why poly vs. epoxy? What are the tradeoffs?

"Simple Simon" wrote in message
...
The proper way to patch a thru-hull hole in a GRP hull is
with polyesther resin and not epoxy resin.

Seems like overkill if it's just to provide a better adhesion
area.

The hole should be tapered in a radius of approximately
four times the radius of the hole itself. In other words if
the hole is two inches the taper should be eight inches.

The taper should be made on both the inside and the
outside of the hull equally. One should then attempt to
determine the layup schedule of the hull and duplicate it
with roving, mat, etc. one should first repair the outside
of the hull. This is the difficult part because one must
work upside down. The secret is to cut the layers to
size, wet them sparingly with resin and keep them in
order of application from small to large to fill the tapered
hole layer by layer rolling with a roller with light pressure
to remove all bubbles. Once the area is filled, a thin, smooth,
flexible board covered with wax paper should be pressed
against the hull and secured there with a jack stand and wedges
so it conforms to the shape of the hull. The area should be
allowed to set up for a couple hours.

Osmotic blisters on the inside?

Then the inside of the hull can be repaired. This is the easy part.
Wet out the cut-to-size layers and apply layer by layer
using a roller to remove all air bubbles. Go easy on the
resin. If you have resin streams draining down the inside
of the hull the cloth and mat is too wet. Let the resin kick
off for about four hours. The outside wooden form can
be removed. Allow a day before doing any final sanding
or grinding to smooth the surfaces. It might be a good
idea to apply a couple layers of barrier coat to the
patch to keep water away from it to eliminate possible
osmotic blisters in the future.

I hope this helps.

S.Simon - learned how to fill in thru-hull holes when working
for Irwin Yachts.



"Jonathan Ganz" wrote in message
...

Thanks for the pic and the advice. I used the 5200 to make
sure I got all the gaps filled in, though I guess it was overkill.

I'm not sure what you mean about leaving a tapered area
around the hole. Why would this give it better bonding?


"DSK" wrote in message
...


Jonathan Ganz wrote:

I had an illegal head on my Cal 20. For that boat, I cut out the
fitting,
then somewhat closely matched a piece of wood to the hole. Then,
filled in the gaps with 5200, then glassed over the whole thing
from
both sides. I don't know if that was the best way to do it, but
it
doesn't leak and I suspect it's stronger than the rest of the
hull.

Is there another method that's as or more effective?

Sure. Just fiberglass over the whole thing, then fair it.

I filled in a thru-hull in our tugboat this spring, which gave an
opportunity
to check the hull lay-up (3/4" thick) also. Using a side grinder
to
create
a
hollow area inside & out, then I taped a piece of wax paper over
the
outside
of the hole, then used WEST system resin & low density filler to
fill
the
hole, then put three layers of 28oz cloth with bonding filler on
the
inside.
Then I put on another three layers of heavy cloth plus some
lighter
stuff,
and used the side grinder again to smooth it over. There is no
doubt
that
this patch is stronger than the rest of the hull, and thoroughly
bonded.

Here is a picture of the inside of the finished patch. That
yellowish
thready
on the left
http://community.webshots.com/photo/...73346002sUSTvu

A side grinder is a GREAT tool, but I used up a lot of expensive
masks
&
respirators (to protect my even-more-expensive lungs).

Why did you use 5200 inside a layer of fiberglass? Why not just
glue
the
wood
in place with resin? BTW it's a good idea to cut away a tapered
area
around
the hole for better bonding.

Fresh Breezes- Doug King

best way to patch a thru hull?
 

All you need to know about patching FRP can be found here.
http://www.westsystem.com/
Real experts, not wannabes.
John Cairns
"Jonathan Ganz" wrote in message
...
I had an illegal head on my Cal 20. For that boat, I cut out the fitting,
then somewhat closely matched a piece of wood to the hole. Then,
filled in the gaps with 5200, then glassed over the whole thing from
both sides. I don't know if that was the best way to do it, but it
doesn't leak and I suspect it's stronger than the rest of the hull.

Is there another method that's as or more effective?

Jonathan

best way to patch a thru hull?
 

Thanks for the link. I used the West System on the Cal 20,
and it worked great!

"John Cairns" wrote in message
...
All you need to know about patching FRP can be found here.
http://www.westsystem.com/
Real experts, not wannabes.
John Cairns
"Jonathan Ganz" wrote in message
...
I had an illegal head on my Cal 20. For that boat, I cut out the
fitting,
then somewhat closely matched a piece of wood to the hole. Then,
filled in the gaps with 5200, then glassed over the whole thing from
both sides. I don't know if that was the best way to do it, but it
doesn't leak and I suspect it's stronger than the rest of the hull.

Is there another method that's as or more effective?

Jonathan

best way to patch a thru hull?
 

On Sat, 13 Sep 2003 22:38:00 -0700, "Jonathan Ganz"
wrote this crap:

Thanks for the link. I used the West System on the Cal 20,
and it worked great!

You actually bought that 40 year old piece of ****? I hope you didn't
pay six grand for it. I got a 25 foot Hunter that I'll sell for four
grand.




Ave Imperator Bush!
Bush Was Right! Four More Years!

best way to patch a thru hull?
 

I'm sure you do have a 25 foot Hunter. Talk about a piece of
crap! Like I said, you know nothing about sailboats.

My Cal 20 is completely and totally superior to your Hunter 25
crap. If we raced, assuming you didn't fall of the boat at the
dock, which is a distinct possibility, the only flag you would win
would be the one that your crew would shove up your ass when
you embarrassed them at the end. We all know you would be
DNF, but your crew, probably comprised of your drag-queen
boyfriend and the last no-feathers boy you picked up in front
of the gay strip joint you're so fond of mentioning, would collectively
shove it up your ass.

I used to call you Hero, as short of Horvath, whatever the f*ck
that is... your name? hahahahh. From now on, I think I'll refer
to you as Horass, which is much closer to the truth. Of course,
there are two ways of looking at that name. One is the boy meets
boy, boy gets reemed by boy. The other is that you're just a
horse's ass. Either fits quite nicely... no pun intended.

"Horvath" wrote in message
...
On Sat, 13 Sep 2003 22:38:00 -0700, "Jonathan Ganz"
wrote this crap:

Thanks for the link. I used the West System on the Cal 20,
and it worked great!

You actually bought that 40 year old piece of ****? I hope you didn't
pay six grand for it. I got a 25 foot Hunter that I'll sell for four
grand.




Ave Imperator Bush!
Bush Was Right! Four More Years!

best way to patch a thru hull?
 

Very good Jon.... 8 out of 10 on that one!

You're developing a vicious streak! Lookin' Good ! ;-)

CM


"Jonathan Ganz" wrote in message
...
| I'm sure you do have a 25 foot Hunter. Talk about a piece of
| crap! Like I said, you know nothing about sailboats.
|
| My Cal 20 is completely and totally superior to your Hunter 25
| crap. If we raced, assuming you didn't fall of the boat at the
| dock, which is a distinct possibility, the only flag you would win
| would be the one that your crew would shove up your ass when
| you embarrassed them at the end. We all know you would be
| DNF, but your crew, probably comprised of your drag-queen
| boyfriend and the last no-feathers boy you picked up in front
| of the gay strip joint you're so fond of mentioning, would collectively
| shove it up your ass.
|
| I used to call you Hero, as short of Horvath, whatever the f*ck
| that is... your name? hahahahh. From now on, I think I'll refer
| to you as Horass, which is much closer to the truth. Of course,
| there are two ways of looking at that name. One is the boy meets
| boy, boy gets reemed by boy. The other is that you're just a
| horse's ass. Either fits quite nicely... no pun intended.
|
| "Horvath" wrote in message
| ...
| On Sat, 13 Sep 2003 22:38:00 -0700, "Jonathan Ganz"
| wrote this crap:
|
| Thanks for the link. I used the West System on the Cal 20,
| and it worked great!
|
| You actually bought that 40 year old piece of ****? I hope you didn't
| pay six grand for it. I got a 25 foot Hunter that I'll sell for four
| grand.
|
|
|
|
| Ave Imperator Bush!
| Bush Was Right! Four More Years!
|
|

best way to patch a thru hull?
 

On Sun, 14 Sep 2003 09:41:11 -0700, "Jonathan Ganz"
wrote this crap:

I'm sure you do have a 25 foot Hunter. Talk about a piece of
crap! Like I said, you know nothing about sailboats.

My Cal 20 is completely and totally superior to your Hunter 25
crap.

I'm sure you think so, Jon-boy.




Ave Imperator Bush!
Bush Was Right! Four More Years!

best way to patch a thru hull?
 

Hey Hero,

Do you really own a Hunter 25? Why would you
want to own such a poorly made, entry level boat
when there are lots of good used boats to be had
for reasonable prices?

S.Simon - always buys quality


"Horvath" wrote in message ...
On Sun, 14 Sep 2003 09:41:11 -0700, "Jonathan Ganz"
wrote this crap:

I'm sure you do have a 25 foot Hunter. Talk about a piece of
crap! Like I said, you know nothing about sailboats.

My Cal 20 is completely and totally superior to your Hunter 25
crap.

I'm sure you think so, Jon-boy.




Ave Imperator Bush!
Bush Was Right! Four More Years!

best way to patch a thru hull?
 

I know so Horass.

"Horvath" wrote in message
...
On Sun, 14 Sep 2003 09:41:11 -0700, "Jonathan Ganz"
wrote this crap:

I'm sure you do have a 25 foot Hunter. Talk about a piece of
crap! Like I said, you know nothing about sailboats.

My Cal 20 is completely and totally superior to your Hunter 25
crap.

I'm sure you think so, Jon-boy.




Ave Imperator Bush!
Bush Was Right! Four More Years!

best way to patch a thru hull?
 

Even I know ya gotta turn loose of at least a twenty!

S.Simon

"Jonathan Ganz" wrote in message ...
Hey, you're talking to a guy who thinks a $5 hooker is
quality.

"Simple Simon" wrote in message
...
Hey Hero,

Do you really own a Hunter 25? Why would you
want to own such a poorly made, entry level boat
when there are lots of good used boats to be had
for reasonable prices?

S.Simon - always buys quality


"Horvath" wrote in message
...
On Sun, 14 Sep 2003 09:41:11 -0700, "Jonathan Ganz"
wrote this crap:

I'm sure you do have a 25 foot Hunter. Talk about a piece of
crap! Like I said, you know nothing about sailboats.

My Cal 20 is completely and totally superior to your Hunter 25
crap.

I'm sure you think so, Jon-boy.




Ave Imperator Bush!
Bush Was Right! Four More Years!

best way to patch a thru hull?
 

On Sun, 14 Sep 2003 15:58:27 -0400, "Simple Simon"
wrote this crap:

Hey Hero,

Do you really own a Hunter 25? Why would you
want to own such a poorly made, entry level boat
when there are lots of good used boats to be had
for reasonable prices?

That WAS my starter boat, dumbass. I don't sail it anymore. I have
one much better.




Ave Imperator Bush!
Bush Was Right! Four More Years!

best way to patch a thru hull?
 

"Horvath" wrote in message ...
On Sun, 14 Sep 2003 15:58:27 -0400, "Simple Simon"
wrote this brilliant observation:

Hey Hero,

Do you really own a Hunter 25? Why would you
want to own such a poorly made, entry level boat
when there are lots of good used boats to be had
for reasonable prices?

That WAS my starter boat, dumbass. I don't sail it anymore. I have
one much better.

Much better? What do you have a 26 Beneteau? Bwahahahaahah!

S.Simon

best way to patch a thru hull?
 

Horvath wrote in :

On Sun, 14 Sep 2003 15:58:27 -0400, "Simple Simon"
wrote this crap:

Hey Hero,

Do you really own a Hunter 25? Why would you
want to own such a poorly made, entry level boat
when there are lots of good used boats to be had
for reasonable prices?

That WAS my starter boat, dumbass. I don't sail it anymore. I have
one much better.

whihc you don't sail either.


Bertie

best way to patch a thru hull?
 

Nah, he likes Hunters.

"Simple Simon" wrote in message
...

"Horvath" wrote in message
...
On Sun, 14 Sep 2003 15:58:27 -0400, "Simple Simon"
wrote this brilliant observation:

Hey Hero,

Do you really own a Hunter 25? Why would you
want to own such a poorly made, entry level boat
when there are lots of good used boats to be had
for reasonable prices?

That WAS my starter boat, dumbass. I don't sail it anymore. I have
one much better.

Much better? What do you have a 26 Beneteau? Bwahahahaahah!

S.Simon

best way to patch a thru hull?
 

On Sun, 14 Sep 2003 20:51:48 -0400, "Simple Simon"
wrote this crap:



That WAS my starter boat, dumbass. I don't sail it anymore. I have
one much better.

Much better? What do you have a 26 Beneteau? Bwahahahaahah!


http://community.webshots.com/photo/...84590516gdrVXX





Ave Imperator Bush!
Bush Was Right! Four More Years!

best way to patch a thru hull?
 

Now that is one ugly boat.

Almost as bad as your "girlfriend."

"Horvath" wrote in message
...
On Sun, 14 Sep 2003 20:51:48 -0400, "Simple Simon"
wrote this crap:



That WAS my starter boat, dumbass. I don't sail it anymore. I have
one much better.

Much better? What do you have a 26 Beneteau? Bwahahahaahah!


http://community.webshots.com/photo/...84590516gdrVXX





Ave Imperator Bush!
Bush Was Right! Four More Years!

best way to patch a thru hull?
 

Here's a picture of his "girlfriend".... scary.

http://community.webshots.com/photo/...84853526lRqFmW

"Simple Simon" wrote in message
...

"Horvath" wrote in message
...
On Sun, 14 Sep 2003 15:58:27 -0400, "Simple Simon"
wrote this brilliant observation:

Hey Hero,

Do you really own a Hunter 25? Why would you
want to own such a poorly made, entry level boat
when there are lots of good used boats to be had
for reasonable prices?

That WAS my starter boat, dumbass. I don't sail it anymore. I have
one much better.

Much better? What do you have a 26 Beneteau? Bwahahahaahah!

S.Simon

best way to patch a thru hull?
 

Here's a picture of his "girlfriend" and his "fiancee." I'm not
sure who is who.

http://community.webshots.com/photo/...84855477jglKPW

"Simple Simon" wrote in message
...

"Horvath" wrote in message
...
On Sun, 14 Sep 2003 15:58:27 -0400, "Simple Simon"
wrote this brilliant observation:

Hey Hero,

Do you really own a Hunter 25? Why would you
want to own such a poorly made, entry level boat
when there are lots of good used boats to be had
for reasonable prices?

That WAS my starter boat, dumbass. I don't sail it anymore. I have
one much better.

Much better? What do you have a 26 Beneteau? Bwahahahaahah!

S.Simon

best way to patch a thru hull?
 

On Sun, 14 Sep 2003 21:15:09 -0700, "Jonathan Ganz"
wrote this crap:

Now that is one ugly boat.

That shows you have no taste. Go back to your forty-year-old Cal 20.

Almost as bad as your "girlfriend."

You've never seen a pic of my beautiful, sexy, hot, girlfriend.
Besides, you're into boys, and old beat-up boats.




Ave Imperator Bush!
Bush Was Right! Four More Years!

best way to patch a thru hull?
 

You're right that's a definite step up. It puts Bobsprits C&C 32 to
shame.

S.Simon


"Horvath" wrote in message ...
On Sun, 14 Sep 2003 20:51:48 -0400, "Simple Simon"
wrote this crap:



That WAS my starter boat, dumbass. I don't sail it anymore. I have
one much better.

Much better? What do you have a 26 Beneteau? Bwahahahaahah!


http://community.webshots.com/photo/...84590516gdrVXX





Ave Imperator Bush!
Bush Was Right! Four More Years!

best way to patch a thru hull?
 

"Jonathan Ganz" wrote in message ...
I had an illegal head on my Cal 20.

No wonder San Fran bay is so dirty.

Is there another method that's as or more effective?


Yes, cut a patch or 1/4 inch steel. Weld it flush with the hole using
a lincon welding machine. It will be strong as steel

Joe



Jonathan

best way to patch a thru hull?
 

And keep a Lincoln welder in the hold because
with a steel hull you're gonna need it frequently
to patch all the rust holes that develop in every
steel hull over the normal course of time.

S.Simon - knows steel is an inferior material
for sailing yacht hulls.


"Joe Butcher" wrote in message om...
"Jonathan Ganz" wrote in message ...
I had an illegal head on my Cal 20.

No wonder San Fran bay is so dirty.

Is there another method that's as or more effective?


Yes, cut a patch or 1/4 inch steel. Weld it flush with the hole using
a lincon welding machine. It will be strong as steel

Joe



Jonathan

best way to patch a thru hull?
 

That's true. I've never seen a picture of your "girlfriend,"
probably because the only such person that exists is
either the one who's URL I posted or the two boys in
the car.

My 40-year-old Cal 20 could beat your Hunter crap
any day of the week and twice on Sunday. Why? It's
not the boat Horass, it's the sailor.

"Horvath" wrote in message
...
On Sun, 14 Sep 2003 21:15:09 -0700, "Jonathan Ganz"
wrote this crap:

Now that is one ugly boat.

That shows you have no taste. Go back to your forty-year-old Cal 20.

Almost as bad as your "girlfriend."

You've never seen a pic of my beautiful, sexy, hot, girlfriend.
Besides, you're into boys, and old beat-up boats.




Ave Imperator Bush!
Bush Was Right! Four More Years!

best way to patch a thru hull?
 

You could possibly use it on the steel plate in his head?

"Simple Simon" wrote in message
...
And keep a Lincoln welder in the hold because
with a steel hull you're gonna need it frequently
to patch all the rust holes that develop in every
steel hull over the normal course of time.

S.Simon - knows steel is an inferior material
for sailing yacht hulls.


"Joe Butcher" wrote in message
om...
"Jonathan Ganz" wrote in message
...
I had an illegal head on my Cal 20.

No wonder San Fran bay is so dirty.

Is there another method that's as or more effective?


Yes, cut a patch or 1/4 inch steel. Weld it flush with the hole using
a lincon welding machine. It will be strong as steel

Joe



Jonathan

best way to patch a thru hull?
 

"Simple Simon" wrote in message ...
And keep a Lincoln welder in the hold because
with a steel hull you're gonna need it frequently
to patch all the rust holes that develop in every
steel hull over the normal course of time.

I have news for you Captn.
If you paint steel it will not rust.

To plug a thru hull on a steel boat cost about 35 dollars if you have
to hire a welder. Takes about 1/2 an hour if you have the right tools.
If you have your own welder it will cost you 2.00 in rods and
materials. Then your back in the water in 1/2 a day verses a week on
an inferior plastic or fiberglass boat sitting in a shipyard.

Plus I can get steel anywhere in the world.

Joe
MSV RedCloud
Steel - cheaper to maintain, stronger, and better all the way around.
No If's and or but's about it.






S.Simon - knows steel is an inferior material
for sailing yacht hulls.


"Joe Butcher" wrote in message om...
"Jonathan Ganz" wrote in message ...
I had an illegal head on my Cal 20.

No wonder San Fran bay is so dirty.

Is there another method that's as or more effective?


Yes, cut a patch or 1/4 inch steel. Weld it flush with the hole using
a lincon welding machine. It will be strong as steel

Joe



Jonathan

best way to patch a thru hull?
 

"Joe Butcher" wrote in message om...

I have news for you Captn.
If you paint steel it will not rust.

Now, that's funny! Tell that to all those body shops
who fix rusted out steel on cars. Tell that all the
shipyards that sandblast old rusted paint off and
apply new paint only to have to do it over again in
a year or two. Tell that to the bridge crews on
the Golden Gate bridge whose never ending job
is taking care of rust on painted steel. Boy, are
you a dreamer, Joe!

To plug a thru hull on a steel boat cost about 35 dollars if you have
to hire a welder. Takes about 1/2 an hour if you have the right tools.
If you have your own welder it will cost you 2.00 in rods and
materials. Then your back in the water in 1/2 a day verses a week on
an inferior plastic or fiberglass boat sitting in a shipyard.

To plug a hole in a GPR boat all it takes is a little grinding and
mixing of resin then wetting out some cloth then applying it. It
all takes 0nly a few hours. All materials can be carried aboard
and they aren't very heavy.No expensive and heavy welder or
access to 220 volt electricity is ever needed. It can all be done
on a remote sandbar somewhere. Try that with steel boat and
see how long it takes to weld up a hole in the hull.

Plus I can get steel anywhere in the world.

Why not carry a couple sheets of steel along like I do with
glass and resin? Then some rods and a welder along with
a big generator to run it?

Like I said, steel is an inferior material with which to build
a sailing yacht.

S.Simon - Captains sailing yacht, "Cut the Mustard", a
GRP vessel that's easy to fix with materials on
hand. Also, a GRP vessel that's safer than a
rust-prone "Red Cloud"!

best way to patch a thru hull?
 

"Joe Butcher" wrote in message om...

I have news for you Captn.
If you paint steel it will not rust.

Now, that's funny! Tell that to all those body shops
who fix rusted out steel on cars. Tell that all the
shipyards that sandblast old rusted paint off and
apply new paint only to have to do it over again in
a year or two. Tell that to the bridge crews on
the Golden Gate bridge whose never ending job
is taking care of rust on painted steel. Boy, are
you a dreamer, Joe!

To plug a thru hull on a steel boat cost about 35 dollars if you have
to hire a welder. Takes about 1/2 an hour if you have the right tools.
If you have your own welder it will cost you 2.00 in rods and
materials. Then your back in the water in 1/2 a day verses a week on
an inferior plastic or fiberglass boat sitting in a shipyard.

To plug a hole in a GPR boat all it takes is a little grinding and
mixing of resin then wetting out some cloth then applying it. It
all takes 0nly a few hours. All materials can be carried aboard
and they aren't very heavy.No expensive and heavy welder or
access to 220 volt electricity is ever needed. It can all be done
on a remote sandbar somewhere. Try that with steel boat and
see how long it takes to weld up a hole in the hull.

Plus I can get steel anywhere in the world.

Why not carry a couple sheets of steel along like I do with
glass and resin? Then some rods and a welder along with
a big generator to run it?

Like I said, steel is an inferior material with which to build
a sailing yacht.

S.Simon - Captains sailing yacht, "Cut the Mustard", a
GRP vessel that's easy to fix with materials on
hand. Also, a GRP vessel that's safer than a
rust-prone "Red Cloud"!

best way to patch a thru hull? - Winner.jpg (0/1)
 

On Mon, 15 Sep 2003 09:19:26 -0700, "Jonathan Ganz"
wrote this crap:

My 40-year-old Cal 20 could beat your Hunter crap
any day of the week and twice on Sunday. Why? It's
not the boat Horass, it's the sailor.

Beat this, dumbass! This is what the winner's circle looks like.
(Which you can only dream about.)




Ave Imperator Bush!
Bush Was Right! Four More Years!

best way to patch a thru hull? - Winner.jpg (1/1)
 

Who are the Losers holding that flag???


"Horvath" wrote in message
...

best way to patch a thru hull? - Winner.jpg (0/1)
 

Beat what? Not you that's for sure. You're already
spoken for by your bottom buddies.

"Horvath" wrote in message
...
On Mon, 15 Sep 2003 09:19:26 -0700, "Jonathan Ganz"
wrote this crap:

My 40-year-old Cal 20 could beat your Hunter crap
any day of the week and twice on Sunday. Why? It's
not the boat Horass, it's the sailor.

Beat this, dumbass! This is what the winner's circle looks like.
(Which you can only dream about.)




Ave Imperator Bush!
Bush Was Right! Four More Years!

best way to patch a thru hull? - Winner.jpg (1/1)
 

They're holding a flag up his butt?

"Capt. Mooron" wrote in message
...
Who are the Losers holding that flag???


"Horvath" wrote in message
...