Quote:
Originally Posted by Bruce[_4_]
On Mon, 31 May 2010 02:51:09 +0100, Barnett22
wrote:
den;799437 Wrote:
There is also wax in the gel coat, which has to be removed by
grinding, as previously mentioned, or chemically washing because of
non adherence. In your case not to worry, as I doubt if there is any
wax left. your call.
Den
48ft YF EAGLE
On May 30, 9:23*am, Bruce wrote:-
On Sun, 30 May 2010 01:52:13 +0100, Barnett22
Go tohttp://westsystem.com/ss/boat-repair/
By the way, gel coat is essentially polyester resin with a coloring
agent which is used to make a smooth finish on the outside of the
fiberglass structural layer. So, since it is just a surface finish it
should be ground completely off in the areas that you are bonding
additional glass.-
:high build primer" as it will be a much better base coat.
Oh yea, if I need to go down to raw fiberglass on the hull, I'll do the
text book repair adding 5-6 layers of biaxial and then sand and put
another couple layers on the whole hull. Hopefully that will hold it.
There will be a ton of blocking.........think Imron (single stage) will
hold on the bottom or will I need to go with a Gel-Coat? Same
properties, I believe. Thanks again
I haven't seen the boat of course, but I wonder why you want to
re-sheath the bottom? It is a hell of a lot of work if no other
reason.
You are also adding weight to the boat and will it solve the problem?
In fact what is the problem? Are the cracks from weak structure or did
the previous owner hit a log at fifty miles an hour?
Re-paint.
Gelcoat is basically polyester resin with a coloring agent mixed into
it so it adheres to the polyester built hull real well. However.... it
doesn't stick to epoxy nearly as well so the usual policy is gelcoat
over polyester and paint over epoxy.
I'm not familiar with Imron but googling on it appears to be what I
would call a two part paint - paint + activator so I think it is
probably like the two part polyurethane paint we use on boats. and
would be suitable for the bottom of a fast boat.
I am assuming that this boat is trailered and not left in the water
for long periods as you don't talk about anti-fouling paint so my
suggestion is to decide what two part polyurethane paint to use based
on cost. I would certainly advise a two part poly paint as if you use
epoxy paint it "chalks" quite heavily and doesn't look so pretty after
the first year.
Cheers,
Bruce
(bruceinbangkokatgmaildotcom) |
Thanks Bruce,
I worked on the boat all day today and removed all paint and gel-coat from the hull. Yes, it was a big job!
This is a Nitro Bass Boat, and a 1995 to boot. It is probably worth $4,000.00 when it does not have any issues with the hull. I traded for this boat locally for a very nice little 4x4 pick up truck. While inspecting the boat I found where a few places where it looked like someone had worked on the hull. I asked the gentleman about it and he said he had a little water coming in the boat and he had had this problem corrected. I asked him twice if it leaked any water now. He seemed to be a very honest guy. Anyway, the first time on the lake it took on a tremendous amount of water. Bilge pumps did keep up, but barely. To make a long story a little shorter, I got took on this one.
So, I am a cabinet builder by trade and felt if anyone could do this I could. I stripped all paint off and sanded all the gel-coat off. I am down to solid yellow fiberglass. Presently, I have found every stress crack, “v” grooved, cleaned with Acetone and filled with epoxy filler. I am in the process of repairing one larger spot by cutting out damaged area and layering with 6 layers of glass and epoxy. After these are repaired I plan to re-sheath/re-glass the bottom with biaxial cloth and epoxy.
This is a 16.5’ bass boat with a 115hp outboard, so I don’t believe it will be a problem. One other thing, it does have several places on the boat hull that seam weak or not too stiff. (like there’s nothing behind it) I am planning on buying some injection foam to try and fill in the gaps between the hull and the stock foam fillers that are sandwiched between to top cap and the hull. I plan to drill holes to shoot this into the cavity. Hopefully, this will expand enough to take some of the load.
This boat will be trailered, only in the water for 4 – 6 hours at a time.
Boy, I sure hope this works………spent some time on it already…..
Thanks so much guys for the advice and comments. I’ll have some photos up tomorrow.
Take care,