Justin C wrote:
In article , Dave wrote:
On Sat, 11 Apr 2009 22:44:58 -0000, Justin C
said:

Has anyone here experience of water in the rudder? What are the
implications of this happening?
Virtually all CSs get water in the rudder. It's SOP in cold climates to
drill a drain hole near the bottom of the rudder, and perhaps one at the top
as a vent, to drain the rudder at haulout, and refit the hole plugs before
launch. The rudders that haven't received this treatment have been known to
split from the expanding water when they freeze.

CSs? What's CSs? Sorry if I'm being obtuse, it's been a bit a stressful
few days, this is our first boat purchase.

I don't think freezing is much of a worry here (England, south coast). I
don't recall the last time the sea froze - I know I was living in
Brighton at the time, and that was over twenty-five ... ummm... twenty
seven years ago. I really can't see it happening in a marina surrounded
by apartment blocks. I'll not sweat that just now.

Justin.

The only issue is the tangs on the shaft assuming a stainless shaft.
There have been incidents where either the tangs inside the rudder have
been made from mild steel rather than stainless or an incorrect filler
rod was used and the tangs have rusted through at the root leading to
the rudder being free to rotate on the shaft and obviously total
steering failure.

IMO if the drained water is rusty or there is any significant rust weep
at any existing drip or rust weeps from the drilled drain hole or if
any movement between the rudder and shaft is detected when the wheel or
tiller is tied off and the blade is waggled forceably, something nasty
is probably happening inside the rudder. Options then include cutting
one or more inspection holes in one side of the blade and glassing it up
again afterwards, or various *expensive* non-destructive or minimally
destructive imaging systems that may well still leave you with
insufficient information to assess its safety or plan a repair strategy.

Repair could be handled by *any* competent yard and is difficult but
possible DIY if you have enough experience with GRP work and take the
metalwork to a pro. Specify recessed fillets of a resilient underwater
sealant where the shaft penetrates the rudder shell. GRP directly bonded
to stainless will crack at or near the join from thermal expansion
issues alone.

OTOH if there is no evidence of rust and no class history of rudder
problems its just drain and check annually when hauling out to prevent
frost damage while ashore.

The class association if there is one and/or detailed builder's plans
would be a big help.

IANAL but as the defect has been disclosed by the broker, if you accept
the boat and discover a more serious related problem you may have
limited recourse. You need an idea of the likely repair cost, a proper
survey and possibly competent legal advice.

--
Ian Malcolm. London, ENGLAND. (NEWSGROUP REPLY PREFERRED)
ianm[at]the[dash]malcolms[dot]freeserve[dot]co[dot]uk
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