Jim Conlin wrote in message ...


Scotty says: First off let me state, I have never built such a
structure, and do not have any bigger boats, so take my advice for
what you
pay...

I'd cross-bolt the assembly with bronze or stainless threaded rod.
It'll help with the glue-up, too.


I dunno, never liked that idea. Always felt I would need to make the
whole part thicker to make up for the hole running all the way
through. The beauty of such a lay-up it the longitudal (sp?) strength
and a hole all the way through puts a lot of hurt to that aspect of
the
structure. I like to use staggered dowel pins. (This all assumes
correst application and preparation for/with epoxy. If other adhesive
is to be used, disregard anything I say here.) I tend to over engineer
everything (you should see my picnic tables) but I would get a cheap
dowling jig or use a drill press and set a pattern of alternating
pins. I would start with the end piece and drill three holes on the
inside. Next piece would get three holes facing the first, and four on
the other side. The piece facing that would get 4 and three,
alternating so as to take up the structural deficiencies of the
dowels. I would use pre-made and scored hardwood dowels. I don't think
you need a shaft all the way through if you use epoxy. If he is
worried he could always key in a cross support across the bottom. For
a part this size, I would want a finished part of 7/4. He may run a
router up the bottom and lay in a conduit for wiring, and shape the
part any way he pleases after it is cured.

A few more staggered thoughts. In the ascii I "drew" below, the pieces
seem wider than tall, this is not going to be the case of course. I
would suggest 4/4 thickness planks, cut into 2 inch strips... Mostly
aesthetics here, I used to make furniture so take my word for it.
Also, when applying the clamps, stagger them too, one on top, one on
the bottom and so on, or you will have a smiley part when you are
done. I don't see why you could not run a 1/4 inch deep channel with a
router under the part for wires, no deeper unless you run it near the
edge. If I were going to run it up the middle, I might cut three of my
strips 1/4 inch thicker and leave the extra on the bottom. After
cutting in the channel, round the edges in a smooth curve to match the
bottom. Aft of the area where the part meets the boat, you could just
flatten it out and drill a hole in any direction to route the wires
out of there. I will try again with that ascii, here is how the part
will look from the front:
____________________________________________
| |
|______________ ___ _____________|
\_____|000|_____/
Scotty



Backyard Renegade wrote:

(orbital) wrote in message . com...
I want to build an anchor platform that bolts to the bow and extends
off about 2 - 3 feet for safely deploying the anchor from. Usually
there is a roller installed through or on them.

Here is a company that is selling something similar to what I want to
build myself:

http://www.butlermarine.com/anchor%2...eakpulpit.html

They are usually constructed of layed up strips of teak.

Thanks!
Rob

Ahhh, I get it. Before I built boats, I built butcherblock dining
sets, counters, desks, etc, so this is right down my alley.
I would start by getting some 4 or 5 quarter (finished) material. Get
planks that are a little more than multiples of the thickness you want
plus saw curf, plus another 1/8 to leave room for finishing the top
and bottom later. For instance if wanted a 5 quarter finished product
you would look for boards where the width was a little more than a
multiple of 1 1/2 inches. Take your planks and cut out the 1 1/2 inch
strips and lay them out with the end grains direction turned opposite
each piece so the finished part will not warp in one direction or
another like this picture of the end grains of a correctly made
butcher block type table |////|\\\\|////| if that makes any sense.
Anyway, you may want to peg the parts to keep them from moving in the
clamps, these pegs are just for that and not necessarily structure so
use them sparingly timewise... When you have all the parts cut and
ready, get some epoxy and some cheap (relatively) pony type bar
clamps, available at home depot, get enough so you can put a clamp at
least every 9" to one foot. Using throw away brushes, slosh the part
faces with glue, and knock them together. When you have laid as many
as you wish or all, put some wax paper on the edges and some good
thick, straight planks on the outsides of the part and clamp it up. If
you don't use strong backing planks, use more clamps. Again, you may
make the part all at once, or break it up. The epoxy if used properly
will hold fine, especially if you peg it. As to the railing, either
steel which Glenn can address, or steam bent wood. For a first timer,
I might suggest looking at steel as there is some learning curve in
steambending wood, and we don't want to learn the hard way with such
an application. I am in the middle of fighting a leak in the basement
wall so I gotta go, Scotty from SmallBoats.com


To be more specific, I am looking for the proper technique for laying
up strips of teak in a way that will produce the strength required for
a pulpit.

I have been suggested that it is sufficient to just epoxy and clamp
the strips. I have also been told that I should screw and epox the
strips together.

Additionally, I would like to put a channel in the pulipit for wiring
in order to put the nav lights on it.

Well, it will not be the first time I sounded dumb, but what exactly
do you mean by "pulpit"?
Scotty





(orbital) wrote in message . com...
Hello,

I am looking into the option of custom building a teak anchor pulpit
for my 28 Cape Dory power boat. I was wondering if anyone could help
me with some insight into the proper technique for doing this.

Any help would be appreciated!

Thanks in advance.

Rob