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Ron Magen Ron Magen is offline
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First recorded activity by BoatBanter: Jul 2006
Posts: 33
Default Mooring Equipment, NH Seacoast Region Question/Info

'NE',

I go back to 'My' mooring situation . . .

The Club mooring field is also on a river with a distinct 'tidal stream' -
maybe 3kts or more. Also, when we get heavy rains this increases incredibly
and telephone poles, trees, and even 'home size' propane tanks come down the
river.

Chapman's uses as it's 'baseline' the effects on Long Island Sound {at least
my old copy does}. The Red Dragon uses Chapman as it's reference. A couple
of the mooring anchors are Railroad Wheels, literally {about 900lbs plus}.
These are 'Grandfathered' because now ONLY ACTUAL 'Mooring Anchors' are
permitted. We all use 'Mushrooms' {up to 250 pounds} because these are the
easiest to get and can be 'self placed'. {There are two other types . . .
however they MUST be 'implanted' by a diver to be effective, and also
inspected by divers to maintain their guarantees. They CANNOT be 'hauled'
for inspection.}.

For added security, especially with the 'tidal changes / reversals', many of
us use the 'Double Set'. This places one anchor 'upstream', and the other
'downstream'. While not 'rocky', our river bed is hard sand. The concept of
the 'Mushroom' is to dig the 'ring' into this type of bottom, opposed to the
direction of pull. A 'double set' also prevents 'wrapping' - where the chain
winds around the anchor and shortens itself. Eventually, 'Tide goes 'up' . .
boat goes 'down'. Or riding chain breaks and boat goes . . . who knows where
!!

Again, it is NOT the 'weight' but the direction of pull. I was think of the
'frame & concrete' idea when I first joined the 'Dragon. I was going to use
a rubber tire on a 'plate', with a heavy steel 'U-loop' attached, and fill
it with concrete & scrap wheelweights. NO WAY !! Nor the 'old engine block'
stunt, either. The 'density' changes when immersed, concrete is porous, and
iron rusts {and swells and cracks apart the concrete}.

If the 'Port' is SPECIFYING 'Granite', they should have some written
'guidelines'. These SHOULD also specify the Bottom & Riding chain sizes.
Also - it sounds like the situation is similar to the Club - YOU are
responsible for YOUR mooring. YOU own it. A 'Mushroom'
set can be hauled and 'go with you' when you leave. I doubt that several
tons of Granite are worth the cost of bringing it up. If the 'Port' requires
this set-up . . . there should be any number of 'anchors' ALREADY on the
bottom. I'd ask BEFORE I did anything else.

Just as a 'by-the-by' . . . we had a couple of Granite 'columns' {about 3
feet square by about 12-15 feet long}lying down as 'borders' on the
waterfront parking area. One of the members got the idea to set them
vertically, near the 'water edge', to use as emergency 'tie-points'
{remember what I said about the rain-swollen river !!}. He was able to get
one of the local trash-trucks {the kind with forks for lifting the wheeled
trash bins}to pick them up and move them close to the holes. Big and heavy .
.. . to us. But not big and HEAVY in your type of situation.

What, may I ask, are you paying for the chain & pennant . . . at a 'Marine
Supply House' ? What kind & size ? We usually make our own pennents.
Typically 3-strand Nylon line. Most use no, or Nylon, thimbles. I'm trying
Stainless this year.

Regards & Good Luck,
Ron Magen
Backyard Boatshop


----- Original Message -----
From: "NE Sailboat"
Newsgroups: rec.boats.building
Sent: Friday, January 12, 2007 10:09
Subject: Mooring Equipment, NH Seacoast Region Question/Info


Hi Ron,, .. funny, I forgot to check Chapmans and I have one on my

table.
Duh??
SNIP