Thank you Jack! The "terror in my heart" is no longer the
prospect of sinking the boat, but the $150 I would have to pay
to get the boat pulled so I could access the transducer from
the bottom!






On Thu, 13 Jul 2006 07:34:42 -0400, Jack Erbes
wrote:

frank1492 wrote:
If you have read all my messages, would you agree that the
transducer itself is likely the cause of the problem? If something
else is likely (or possible) I need to be careful because the
transducer will cost about $170.
Are you saying that when I pull the transducer out, the
hole will go all the way through? Seems pretty risky with the
boat in the water. I assumed that it would be like a chamber
with the bottom sealed off so that I would just drop the
transducer in with no "fountain."

From the link you posted:

http://www.ess-kayyards.com/catalog/page11.html

Look at the item:

Datamarine Depth Replacement Core $129.99
Replacement core for Datamarine Depth Sounder. For transducer models
S200DL, LX201, Link 5100/6100 and All Dart models.

That is a removable transducer. It slides down into a through hull
fitting that looks sort of like a top hat.

When the transducer is slid down into the through hull fitting, the
flange on the top of it stops it in the fully inserted position (flush
with the fitting on the "wet side" outside of the hull). It will
usually have an small key that matches a notch in the top of the through
hull for fore and aft alignment too.

Then, typically, there is another threaded collar (the transducer cable
runs through that collar) that screws down onto the top of the through
hull and that traps the transducer in place. If there is not a threaded
collar, there may be a SS clevis pin that goes through the through hull
fitting and the transducer body to keep it in place.

If that is a plastic or nylon through hull fitting, the warning about
hand tightening refers to the nut that holds the through hull fitting in
the boat and it may also be referring to a collar that keep the
transducer in place. Those are plastic or nylon, if you go after them
with a pipe wrench or water pump pliers you will run the risk of
breaking them from over tightening. If it breaks and the through hull
fitting or transducer pops out, you will have a 2" hole in your hull
below the waterline.

I would remove the retaining collar or pull the clevis pin (keeping a
hand on the transducer) and then try to raise it up a little. It will
normally be keyed to the through hull for fore and aft alignment and
cannot be rotated in the through hull until it has been raised up a
little.

If it seems to want to come out, stifle the terror in your heart, get
your rag ready, slide the transducer up, and plug the hole with the rag.
A quart or two of water down there won't hurt anything and can be
refreshing on a hot day.

If you look through the stuff that came with the boat, you may find a
plastic plug that looks like the transducer body. It may be for the
speed impeller so make sure it fits before you count on it being used to
plug the depth transducer fitting.

If you have to leave the rag in place for a day or two, drape another
rag over it down around the through hull fitting, and tie it in place
snugly with piece of line or use a radiator clamp gently so as to not
damage the threads or through hull fitting.

Use silicone O-ring lube (Lowes or Home Depot, where the home water
filters are usually) on the O-rings and outside of the transducer body
and it will always be easy to remove.

Jack