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Depth Finder Doesn't Work- New Information
Thank you Jack! The "terror in my heart" is no longer the
prospect of sinking the boat, but the $150 I would have to pay to get the boat pulled so I could access the transducer from the bottom! On Thu, 13 Jul 2006 07:34:42 -0400, Jack Erbes wrote: frank1492 wrote: If you have read all my messages, would you agree that the transducer itself is likely the cause of the problem? If something else is likely (or possible) I need to be careful because the transducer will cost about $170. Are you saying that when I pull the transducer out, the hole will go all the way through? Seems pretty risky with the boat in the water. I assumed that it would be like a chamber with the bottom sealed off so that I would just drop the transducer in with no "fountain." From the link you posted: http://www.ess-kayyards.com/catalog/page11.html Look at the item: Datamarine Depth Replacement Core $129.99 Replacement core for Datamarine Depth Sounder. For transducer models S200DL, LX201, Link 5100/6100 and All Dart models. That is a removable transducer. It slides down into a through hull fitting that looks sort of like a top hat. When the transducer is slid down into the through hull fitting, the flange on the top of it stops it in the fully inserted position (flush with the fitting on the "wet side" outside of the hull). It will usually have an small key that matches a notch in the top of the through hull for fore and aft alignment too. Then, typically, there is another threaded collar (the transducer cable runs through that collar) that screws down onto the top of the through hull and that traps the transducer in place. If there is not a threaded collar, there may be a SS clevis pin that goes through the through hull fitting and the transducer body to keep it in place. If that is a plastic or nylon through hull fitting, the warning about hand tightening refers to the nut that holds the through hull fitting in the boat and it may also be referring to a collar that keep the transducer in place. Those are plastic or nylon, if you go after them with a pipe wrench or water pump pliers you will run the risk of breaking them from over tightening. If it breaks and the through hull fitting or transducer pops out, you will have a 2" hole in your hull below the waterline. I would remove the retaining collar or pull the clevis pin (keeping a hand on the transducer) and then try to raise it up a little. It will normally be keyed to the through hull for fore and aft alignment and cannot be rotated in the through hull until it has been raised up a little. If it seems to want to come out, stifle the terror in your heart, get your rag ready, slide the transducer up, and plug the hole with the rag. A quart or two of water down there won't hurt anything and can be refreshing on a hot day. If you look through the stuff that came with the boat, you may find a plastic plug that looks like the transducer body. It may be for the speed impeller so make sure it fits before you count on it being used to plug the depth transducer fitting. If you have to leave the rag in place for a day or two, drape another rag over it down around the through hull fitting, and tie it in place snugly with piece of line or use a radiator clamp gently so as to not damage the threads or through hull fitting. Use silicone O-ring lube (Lowes or Home Depot, where the home water filters are usually) on the O-rings and outside of the transducer body and it will always be easy to remove. Jack |
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