Tacking a large genoa though the 'slot' between forstay and jibstay is
a breeze if
1. the staysail is on a boom and able to be 'restrained' on the
traveller until the genoa goes 'around'
2. you use a tricing line - a line from the cockpit to a block at the
stemhead or bowsprit cranse then back to a 'patch' at about 70% LP
along the foot (or all the way to the clew) .... when needing to tack,
pull the tricing line and the clew of the genoa gets pulled forward
enough to 'bunch' the genoa so that it easily passes between the
forestay and jibstay. The AC boats of the 70s and 80s used tricing
lines on the large genoas to get the genoa around and across the large
baby stays used on these boats - just a large 'jerk' on the trice line
and the clew shoots forward, the sail bunches momentarily and falls
through the 'slot' .... works very well on a cutter rig with staysail.
Just use thin 'slippery' line .... or use the same line that you
already use for the tack line of an Asymmetrical Spinn.




In article HXDrf.178527$ki.112361@pd7tw2no, Gary
wrote:

Rich Hampel wrote:
For versatility and without removing your 'tried and true / bombproof"
hank-on set up consider to add or change your configuration to a
"solent" configuration' with an added solent stay attached to a
releaseable lever connection at the stem head or bowsprit cranse.

Nothing beats a hank on set of sails for heavy weather. A solent stay
for the genoa, with the genoa cut for extra luff sag, and added just
behind the jibstay and well in front of the forestay would add the
versatility for light winds without sacrificing the strength needed for
'wahoooooo' higher wind ranges. On such a solent stay arrangment with
furler you could build or have built a genoa in a radial configuration
with much lighter weight cloth at the luff portion and normal heavier
cloth at the leech section .... for good shape in the lower wind ranges
and the added strength needed for the higher wind ranges when only the
mid and aft sections would be exposed (partially furled/reefed). Since
such a sail is not carried aloft nor stored on a furler for long
periods (UV damage) you can consider one of the newer lighter weight
high tech sail cloths. The only 'problem' with a forward mounted
solent stay is that it requires you to gybe the genoa 'forward around'
the solent stay in all maneuvers including tacking (by gybing through
270 degrees) or the luff shape will be fouled by the permanently
attached jibstay.
If the solent stay is behind the jibstay (above) then you can't gybe it.
It has to go through the solent/forestay slot.
Proper rig tension and its proper set-up and being
able to make on-the-fly adjustments can become an issue - but if you
are already flying a yankee on a jibstay with a staysail under, you
(should) already know this.

With 'just' roller furling gear on the jibstay one usually doesnt
'bother' to change sails (from genoa to yankee or yankee to genoa) ...
and then you simply muddle along with just a stay'sl up ... and suffer.
Changing a large genoa onto or off of a foil is not a pleasant
experience, especially if it is sodden and heavy. A solent stay system
gives you instant 'versatility' but does add a bit of windage.

There are some 'nifty' spinnaker roller furling systems that are now
beginning to make thier appearance and are completely REMOVABLE when
not in use and lowered. They reduce the detriment of 'windage' in
comparison to roller furled sails when not in use. Such systems, if
over time prove reliable, will replace those pain-in-the-ass 'socks and
chute scoops". An example of such is:
http://www.rollgen.com/pdf/rollgen_e.pdf Such systems are useful for
large light weight drifters through very deeply shaped down wind
asymmetrical spinnakers. With flat cut close reaching and 'pointing'
sails there will be a need to increase the luff or halyard tensions to
get any decent shape out of the sail. If you have an extra large
winch, that would be the means to adequately control luff tension if
the sail's tack (corner) is flown from a tack line.
These code zero furlers are proven by the multihull and open 60s etc as
being reliable and efficient. I have one with a windseeker/drifter and
it works a treat

Yankee .... probably a worthless sail overall. The center of effort is
too high (causes excess heel) ..... hard to 'match shape' with a staysl
(unless the staysl has a VERY rounded entry and a very flat aft
section) ... by extreme stays'l halyard tension. The greater the
overlap with the staysl the LESS efficiency of the yankee-staysl
combination.
Not a worthless sail on a big boat. just think of it as a high clewed
100 percent jib. I love it.
Probably better to fly a blade-jib with a flat staysl
under .... for less heel, more forward thrust (more exposed leech) and
better control when too much wind ... as the sail will not become so
unstable when 'feathering or when 'blade-ing up'.

Hope this helps.
I have the twin headstay rig with a inner stay. Our boat has the genoa
on one and the yankee on the other (hanked on) and a staysail (jumbo) on
the inner. It gives us max flex with minimum work. We can fly them in
any combination. Tacking the genoa is always a pain. I would like to
put the staysail on a slip so I can get it out of the way but I worry
about the old wooden mast.

Our windseeker/drifter is on a code zero furler that we fly from the end
of the bowsprit. We furl it to tack it. It works a charm also. Much
better than the genny in light airs 10 knots.