In article ,
"Ed Edelenbos" wrote:

"mac" wrote in message
...
In article ,
"Ed Edelenbos" wrote:


Hmmm.... in a word... bullhockey. There is a chance that a bit less
maintainance will be needed but epoxy is hardly a necessity. Epoxy is no
guarantee of seaworthiness or durability.

Ed

well, give it a couple of coats of primer and then a coat of your
favorite anti-fouling. (personally, the only things I use wood for is
interior trim and of course, the fireplace. if I was building yet
another daggerboard, I'd use foam core and fiberglass/epoxy. different
tech. for different folks, huh?)

I guess I should have thrown in a smiley or a (grin).... Different
strokes, not only for different folks, but for different applications.

I had a Luders L-16 many years back. A 26' loa cold molded plywood boat.
It was made with mahogany and resourcinol glue which I used to match up the
repairs it needed when I got it. It seems to me that that would be the
"perfect" material (only sub'ing epoxy for the glue) for a larger boat. All
the best points of both wood and plastic.

For a simple daggerboard (and again, depending on the application) the
simple method described by the OP seems fine to me. The last dagger I made
was 1/2" plywood. I rough cut it with a bandsaw, sanded the profile with
various power and hand sanders, filled the voids with a glue sawdust mix and
it has about 12 coats of polyurethane on it. It works great and has lasted
(with no new coating) for about 3 years so far. It was for a Snark (the
styrofoam covered with plastic sheathing boat). As is, it was more work
than the boat is worth. But "worth" rarely fits in a discussion of boat
building or repair. If it were a boat I was racing (not likely, another
"not my bag") I'd have probably put more into it. (grin)

Ed

L-16 is still on my list of most beautiful boats.
OK, I'll admit it, I had a snark too.