The only crimping I would do on the wire is for auto stops if they have
those. Scotty and Cannon both have end attachments that require no crimp.
And Swaging is better anyway.

"Chris" wrote in message
.. .
What about crimping the new line? Are those pieces easily available?


"Gordon" wrote in message
...
Put it where it is handiest and you can bring it in while someone else
is
playing a fish on the same side of the boat.
New line isn't expensive compared to replacing line, swivel, weight etc.
You might want to look at spectra. Less drag, quieter, no electrical
charge,
etc
G


"Chris" wrote in message
.. .
I have a couple questions about downriggers (although i've been using
them
forever)..

1. going to install a downrigger on my old sunray boat... the back 2-3
feet
of the boat has a top, should I install the rigger further towards the
back,
or up close to where the top starts? Note: on one side I've got a
ladder,
and the other a trolling motor mount so ideally brining it up from the
back
and straight out the side may work best...The ladder does come in a bit,
so
I can't mount anything good going straight back. see example below

2. downrigger line - frayed... I notice on this downrigger line I have
there are a couple spots where a single wire in the braid has broken and
frayed. How much of this can I go with before I should put a new line
on
it?



example:
T = trolling motor mount
L = ladder
D........ = proposed downrigger mount location


**T**MOTOR**L*
* *
* *
* D.........2ft..........
*****************
* -----BENCH----- *
* *
* *
* *
* SEAT SEAT *
* *
* ----Windshield-- *
* *
* *
* *
* *
*