That is correct. You spray or roll the insulator(catalyze first) on the
teak in a good thick wet coat and it will dry in about 15 minutes. 320
sand. The 906 is catalyzed with mek peroxide and cobalt promoter and dry to
sand in about 2 hours. Spray finish is best but I have rolled and brushed
with success(requires more sanding). If you are lucky, you can get total
fill of the grain in the first pass with the 906...I normally put on two
coat and get total fill. Last step is the clear coat...once again spray is
best. This system is being used primarily in the high end fighting chair
business where they need a perfect finish. If you find a good spray guy to
help you, you will be a pro in a short short.

--
Shield Finishes and Nauticoat Marine Finish Systems
www.shieldfinishes.com
"ebolean" wrote in message
ups.com...
Hi Bruce,

Thanks for the link. I went to the site and it wasn't clear to me (no
pun intended) which of the listed products are the ones to which you
are referring. Let me take a stab at it.

I think I can identify:
- the insulator as NAUTICOAT ISC-909/ISB-910 - INSULATOR "A" AND "B,"
- the sealer as NAUTICOAT PSP-906 - POLYESTER SEALER/TOPCOAT, and
- the polyurethane as NAUTICOAT PG-N-SERIES - HIGH SOLIDS GLOSS LINEAR
POLYURETHANE TOPCOATS SP.

Can you confirm that these are the products that you used?

Also did you spray them on brush them on? I ask because I don't have
the spraying capability.

Many thanks.

Bob Musson


Bruce on horizon wrote:
The insulator is a clear polyurethane that is designed to penetrate
the wood
and lock down the oils. The sealer is a UV clear polyester that
fills the
grain and the aerospace grade polyurethane clear leaves a hard
durable UV
resistant finish that will last for years. I have it on the teak on
my boat
and it is untouched after a year in Florida. I expect to get 5 years
plus
out of the system...maybe more if I am diligent in the upkeep.

--
Shield Finishes and Nauticoat Marine Finish Systems
www.shieldfinishes.com
"Mike G" wrote in message
ews.com...
In article ,
says...
Most people opt for varnish over polyurethane because of price.
All the
high dollar boats have a insulator/sealer/polyurethane topcoat
system.
Stuff is beautiful and last forever.



I'm not familiar with the insulator/sealer/polyurethane system but
it
sounds interesting.

However, if you walk into your local finish supplier or chandler's
and
you pick up a quart of polyurethane off the shelf it is still a
varnish.

Over the years, heck centuries, varnish has had many definitions.
It's
mostly defined by it's make up during that time period.

Today it's usually accepted that a varnish is a combination of

Curing oils, be it linseed, tung, or these days, a modified soy
oil,

Resins, in the old days these would have been natural resins,
amber,
rosin, etc. Today they are synthetic. In other words plastic.

A Carrier/thinner. Usually mineral spirits.

Polyurethane shares the basic ingredients as the lower octane stuff
but
it's resins form a stronger mechanical bond then the lesser
varnishes so
it is kind of set off on it's own.

From a woodworking perspective, oddly enough, this is not necessary
a
good thing.



--
Mike G.
Heirloom Woods

www.heirloom-woods.net