"Glenn Ashmore" wrote in message
news:PGSdd.76089$tU4.24432@okepread06...
If you want to do it from scratch check out
http://www.frontpanelexpress.com/ They supplied my watermaker control
panel
in 1/8" aluminum. It is a really professional looking job AND it was a
heck
of a lot cheaper than laminated plastic from the neighborhood trophy
engraver. Using their free software you can design a breaker panel exactly
the way you want it. Bolt in some Cole Hersee breakers, buss bars, a
couple
of meters and maybe some Blue Sea lockout sliders and back light labels.

This sounds like a great service - I imagine though that it will cost a few
$$$ no matter what, even when compared with a standard Blue Seas panel.

I presently have a panel about 11" x 18" that was probably installed by a
marina - It is a sort of brown fibreboard hinged on bottom so that it folds
down for access. It has three 6-circuit black Bakelite fuse panels mounted
side by side. It also has a voltmeter and a 12v outlet with maplight. It is
fed from house batteries via a Blue Seas switchable 100 Amp breaker.

What I am thinking of doing, is making (or ordering) a new black plastic or
aluminum panel. I think that I might stay with fuses for most of circuits,
because many require quite low amperages - can't see point of using breakers
for a 1 or 2 amp circuit for instruments and radios.

I have thought about a system where the 100 amp breaker/switch feeds say
three or four breaker/switches for larger loads plus two banks of fuses for
the lighter loads..
I might add a more modern voltmeter and even perhaps an ammeter to monitor
overall draw on batteries.

A few questions:

- Any thoughts about push button circuit breakers vs magnetic breakers?
- Other than convenience, any reason not to use fuses?

Graham