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![]() "Glenn Ashmore" wrote in message news:PGSdd.76089$tU4.24432@okepread06... If you want to do it from scratch check out http://www.frontpanelexpress.com/ They supplied my watermaker control panel in 1/8" aluminum. It is a really professional looking job AND it was a heck of a lot cheaper than laminated plastic from the neighborhood trophy engraver. Using their free software you can design a breaker panel exactly the way you want it. Bolt in some Cole Hersee breakers, buss bars, a couple of meters and maybe some Blue Sea lockout sliders and back light labels. This sounds like a great service - I imagine though that it will cost a few $$$ no matter what, even when compared with a standard Blue Seas panel. I presently have a panel about 11" x 18" that was probably installed by a marina - It is a sort of brown fibreboard hinged on bottom so that it folds down for access. It has three 6-circuit black Bakelite fuse panels mounted side by side. It also has a voltmeter and a 12v outlet with maplight. It is fed from house batteries via a Blue Seas switchable 100 Amp breaker. What I am thinking of doing, is making (or ordering) a new black plastic or aluminum panel. I think that I might stay with fuses for most of circuits, because many require quite low amperages - can't see point of using breakers for a 1 or 2 amp circuit for instruments and radios. I have thought about a system where the 100 amp breaker/switch feeds say three or four breaker/switches for larger loads plus two banks of fuses for the lighter loads.. I might add a more modern voltmeter and even perhaps an ammeter to monitor overall draw on batteries. A few questions: - Any thoughts about push button circuit breakers vs magnetic breakers? - Other than convenience, any reason not to use fuses? Graham |
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