I know that I:3's aren't build for speed, but I can only afford one boat,
and that's the one I liked! Is there anyway I can adjust the fitting (seat
position etc) to make me faster in the water? I'm going to hit they gym far
more and do lots of upper body work before we start going out on flat water
again with the club but any help is a bonus! I really feel myself lagging
sometimes behind the group. I understand about short boats being slower and
stuff, but there must be some tricks here!

Charlie.

--
Kallistos: Contemporary Jewellery Design
http://www.kallistos.co.uk
eBay: http://kallistos.notlong.com

"Charlie" wrote in message
...
I know that I:3's aren't build for speed, but I can only afford one
boat,
and that's the one I liked! Is there anyway I can adjust the fitting
(seat
position etc) to make me faster in the water? I'm going to hit they
gym far
more and do lots of upper body work before we start going out on flat
water
again with the club but any help is a bonus! I really feel myself
lagging
sometimes behind the group. I understand about short boats being
slower and
stuff, but there must be some tricks here!

Hi Charlie.

I'm not familiar with I:3's but in general every hull shape will have an
optimum speed. Once you reach this speed more effort simply makes more
wash and doesn't make much difference to your speed. Are the others in
your group who are faster, paddling different boats? If so you may
never be as fast without changing your boat to something like the boats
the others are using. Wing paddles are more efficient for flat water
paddling so you may gain an advantage by trying wings. They do take a
while to get used to and some training is advisable to gain the most
benefit. Wings will not get your boat moving faster if you are already
at it's optimum speed. You can trim the boat by moving your weight
backwards (or forwards but unlikely) within the limits of you fitting
into the cockpit. IMHO the boat should be trimmed either level or bow
slightly raised. Bow downwards will create extra drag (a bad thing).
Cleaning the crud off the boat will help your speed too. When we train
as a mixed group and wish to stay together, the fastest boats are
handicapped by fastening a bungee (used to secure the boat to a V-Bar
roof rack) around their hull behind the paddler creating extra drag for
the fast paddlers. That way everyone can work out but paddle as a group.

David Kemper
Not a fan of falling behind.

The 1:3 is a river / play boat from Pyranha.
It should be fine around other play boats.
Now if you arr trying to keep up with an NDK or P & H sea kayak you may
have to spend some time at the gym.

It is a play boat so will not be real fast. It is likely good at
surfing or whatever.

Well, loads of them use play boats, including my mate in another (larger)
I:3. I think I might just need to hit the gym, I'm only a 5ft tall lass so
I don't think that helps either. I might try notching the seat back an inch
or two to see if that brings the nose out a little more, I'm flat in the
water at the moment.

Charlie.

wrote in message
oups.com...
The 1:3 is a river / play boat from Pyranha.
It should be fine around other play boats.
Now if you arr trying to keep up with an NDK or P & H sea kayak you may
have to spend some time at the gym.

It is a play boat so will not be real fast. It is likely good at
surfing or whatever.

Charlie wrote:
Well, loads of them use play boats, including my mate in another (larger)
I:3.

If it's a larger I:3 it'll probably have more waterline length, which
generally translates to a greater hull speed...

I think I might just need to hit the gym

Technique tuning of your forward paddling is probably going to get you
up to the optimum hull speed (assuming you're not already there) better
than just yanking harder.

Pete.
--
Peter Clinch Medical Physics IT Officer
Tel 44 1382 660111 ext. 33637 Univ. of Dundee, Ninewells Hospital
Fax 44 1382 640177 Dundee DD1 9SY Scotland UK
net http://www.dundee.ac.uk/~pjclinch/

"Charlie" wrote in message
...
Well, loads of them use play boats, including my mate in another (larger)
I:3. I think I might just need to hit the gym, I'm only a 5ft tall lass
so
I don't think that helps either. I might try notching the seat back an
inch
or two to see if that brings the nose out a little more, I'm flat in the
water at the moment.

If you trim your boat to lift the bow, you dip the stern. So the stern get
dragged under the surface by the stern wave sooner, thus you ultimate
optimum speed may be less. Also, with a lower stern those little waves that
you hopped across can catch you back end and get you practicing hip flicks
and braces etc. :-)

I think flat in the water is good. Others may have different opinions.

Ewan Scott

"Ewan Scott" wrote in message
...

"Charlie" wrote in message
...
Well, loads of them use play boats, including my mate in another
(larger)
I:3. I think I might just need to hit the gym, I'm only a 5ft tall
lass
so
I don't think that helps either. I might try notching the seat back
an
inch
or two to see if that brings the nose out a little more, I'm flat in
the
water at the moment.

If you trim your boat to lift the bow, you dip the stern. So the stern
get
dragged under the surface by the stern wave sooner, thus you ultimate
optimum speed may be less. Also, with a lower stern those little waves
that
you hopped across can catch you back end and get you practicing hip
flicks
and braces etc. :-)

I think flat in the water is good. Others may have different opinions.

I agree with this. The only reason I suggested trimming bow up (and only
very slightly up at that) was to avoid the bows submerging which creates
a lot of drag. Level trim is preferable if bow diving is not a problem.

Question for Charlie: Do you know what wash riding is and what positions
on the wash you can take advantage of? If you don't I will try to
elaborate in another post.

David Kemper
Not a fan of preaching to the converted.