BCITORGB wrote:
Michael suggests:
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You want the most support you can get. This is especially true with
a
plastic hull. You can either cut into a deep crosspiece (like a 2x6)
or make a saddle that bolts to the crosspiece. The latter will be
more
flexible in allowing for lots of different configurations.
============

See what you think about this: I cut deep into the 2x6 crosspiece
(rectangular cut) and then create a sling using a fairly wide webbing
strap (perhaps 1.5" wide to correspond to the 1.5" cross-section of
the
2x6).

I don't know if this qualifies as a "saddle", but it would seem to
conform ideally to the hull curvature and also transfer the mass of
the
kayak, via straps, to the crosspiece. The issue here, I guess, is
ensuring that the straps can be securely mounted to the crosspiece
(grommets etc, eh?).

Or am I getting too complicated (and perhaps flimsy) here?

Michael, you have an uncanny ability to "send me back to the drawing
board". Thanks, I appreciate the input.

Cheers,
Wilf
===========

I think Michael is right about fitting a saddle for the hull to fit in
is a good idea. when he spoke of curvature before, fitting the top of
the van, maybe I missed what he was saying. To support the hull with a
saddle spreads out the weight of the kayak from just resting on one
very small area, and can overload that spot causing distortion. You
accomplish a lot with the foam pads. They do make high density foam
blocks that you can use for the hull also.

If the rocker interferes with the roof top, move the cross memgers
closer together. You can get an idea for spacing, just set the kayak on
the ground, and slide some 2x4 blocks under to determine the clearance
issues. Generally I think longer is better, but again Michael is
correct to say that the bow and stern lines are what actually hold the
kayak on top of the van, the rack just provides something for it to
rest on.

================================================== =====================
And Walts recommendation to drive a few miles and then stop and check
it is the best and most important!
================================================== =====================

And don't forget that it is up there. I say a 'yaker pull into an
underground parking garage one time. The low clearance was a big ouch!

One other thing I do, is using a bicycle cable lock, through the rack,
and various holes in the kayak, I lock it on. Serves as a safety if the
ropes come loose, and when you stop for the pizza, some numbskull
doesn't think that he can grab your kayak and make a quick get away.
Really ruins your day if you come out to your van and your pride and
joy, is gone! TnT

Tink suggests:
=============
One other thing I do, is using a bicycle cable lock, through the rack,
and various holes in the kayak,
===============

You have HOLES in your kayak!? I thought the objective was to avoid
holes!

frtzw906

BCITORGB wrote:
Tink suggests:
=============
One other thing I do, is using a bicycle cable lock, through the
rack,
and various holes in the kayak,
===============

You have HOLES in your kayak!? I thought the objective was to avoid
holes!

frtzw906

Well actually, you need one for each of the crew! Even canoes have
great big long holes, amazing they even float!

Now if you look inside these holes, you might find a seat support or
center post that you can thread a long cable around. Otherwise, some
kayaks have fittings or handles on the bow or stern for lifting that
you can put a cable lock in!

Every year there is someone on Mountain Buzz who put their kayaks on
the car night before a trip, to come out in the morning, and they lost
their boats overnight, or at the pizza pl, or motel. That would be
heartbreaking! TnT