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Michael Daly
 
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On 25-Aug-2004, Jeff Potter wrote:

Anyway, it seems like my 230 Lendl is pretty nice, maybe a tad long. I
have a 220 Streuer that I'm borrowing that seems short. But I really
haven't been seakayak paddling that much. I'm 6'1" with 30-31" torso. My
boat has a 20" beam


Technically, you don't size the paddle, you size the shaft. If the shaft is
the right length, it doesn't matter what size blades you put on, they'll
still end up under water. One 225 cm paddle could be the same for you as
a 215 with different blades.

Lendal's web site had some info on sizing shafts once upon a time - check it
and see if it still does.

I use a 220 Lendal Archipelago in a kayak with a low deck and 22" beam. I'm
5'11" and find it a tad long - I kinda wish I got a 215. I'd guess that
you'd be comfortable with a 220 or even 215.

The best advice is try before you buy. Try the same paddle you want, not some
other paddle with the same overall length.

If you're keen on speed, why not get a wing paddle? - you can also use it for
touring or use the Lendal and keep the wing as a spare. BTW - I think they
size wings a tad shorter, but I'm not sure.

Mike
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Jeff Potter
 
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"Michael Daly" wrote in message ...
[ ]
Technically, you don't size the paddle, you size the shaft. If the shaft is
the right length, it doesn't matter what size blades you put on, they'll
still end up under water. One 225 cm paddle could be the same for you as
a 215 with different blades.


I'm terrible with logic. Is the idea to stay away from paddles and
shafts that are too short? Everyone talks about being sure to bury the
complete blade in the water, then they seem to be thinking paddles are
too long and moving to shorter paddles---you're not the only place
I've seen people wish for shorter. But it seems to me that as you go
shorter that is where you risk not being able to get the whole blade
in the water. A longer paddle easily puts the whole thing down there.
The worry then seems to me that you're putting TOO MUCH paddle in the
water. That's what longer does, as far as I can tell.

Oh well. I just have a chance for a halfprice paddle, limited
selection. I figure I should have a take down spare. I don't have time
to test on water. I just tried my various paddles sitting in the boat
in the yard. The 230 Lendl feels best--very light too. It has a much
longer shaft, somewhat longer overall, shorter blades than the two
220's I have. The 220 Struer and new Harmony two-part I just got both
seem too short offhand and the 220 seemed too short in the water. But
even when I did get to do some paddling and water-testing it wasn't
that much, just a couple hours. So maybe I'm somehow being biased by
my old fla****er ways and should just suck it up and go a little
shorter for the seakayak. As I said, I'm a terrible shopper and rarely
buy anything much less something new even for halfprice. I'd bought
the 220 and was thinking I should maybe return it for the 230. I
recall liking that length the last time I paddled, but maybe more
paddling would reveal it to be a bit long. I just talked to a top
racer pal and we're similar size and he uses 222 (maye a wing?). Whew!
I'll just let it ride. The goofy thing is that luck has me driving
again by the boat store today---I usually only get that way a few
times a year. Oh well! Thanks for the tips.

I'll look for Lendl's site.

--JP
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Michael Daly
 
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On 26-Aug-2004, (Jeff Potter) wrote:

Is the idea to stay away from paddles and
shafts that are too short?


Too short or too long. If it's too short, you won't get the
full blade submerged early enough in the stroke to get real
power. Too long and you're just using a lot of torque for
the same forward force. That excess torque translates into
excess yaw and more muscle fatigue.

The shaft should be the right length to allow you to grip
the shaft at the control position (oval, ridge whatever)
and still get the blade into the water correctly.

Therefore, two things are measured - the distance between your
hands and the distance from the hand to the water. The latter
takes into account things like kayak beam, freeboard and seat
height.

In general, the longer your arms, the longer the shaft.

Since every person has a different preference for how far
apart their hands should be, that has to govern. Beginners
seem to grip with their hands too close together, so they
can't get a reliable length estimate until the paddler has
enough experience to use a paddle correctly.

Technique also plays into this. If you never use a vertical
stroke but rely on a low stroke, a slightly longer paddle is
good. If you use a Greenland-style paddle, your hand position
is closer together and the shaft (or loom in GP speak) is quite
short. I think the trend to shorter paddles recently reflects
a shift to more emphasis on vertical stroke techniques.

It all comes down to what you're comfortable with.

Mike
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