I am signed up for a canoe course in May, and my local paddle shop has a
sale this week, so I am looking to upgrade my canoe setup. I have an
Old Town Camper Canoe, 16 foot, plastic, wide and with a flat bottom.

1. Floats are recommended for the canoe course. I measured my boat, 36
inches from the inside of the stern to the back of the rear seat, and 55
inches from the inside of the bow to the front of the front seat.
Available end floats seem to be around 30" or 40" long. I am tempted to
get the 30 inch float for the front, to avoid losing too much legroom
for the bow paddler, and 40" for the back, which would actually extend
under the rear seat. Does this seem reasonable? I am buying floats for
tandem paddling, but may ocasionally paddle it solo, and will probably
be solo for the class. I may get a center float later.

2. How do I attach the float bags? I understand that one usually mounts
eyes to the gunnels, but these gunnels are plastic box sections, so I
can't get inside the gunnel to use a backing plate and throughbolts,
which is how I like to install hardware on plastic or fiberglass. I am
concerned about using screws on plastic, but perhaps stainless sheet
metal screws would work.

3. I have a 60" paddle, a 54" paddle, and a 48" paddle, all ordinary
wood paddles. I am 5' 11" and usually sit in the stern. My local shop
does not carry paddles more than 60" long, except for heavy plastic raft
paddles. Is the 54" paddle too short for someone my size in the bow? I
have a book that claims stern paddles come to your eyes, bow to your
chin; by that standard I need to go 6 inches longer, bow and stern. The
48" paddle is the spare or for kids. I don't want to spend $75 on a
paddle. Should I get a longer paddle? If so, where can I order it?

Any comments would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.

Richard

Paddle selections is a comfort thing combined with usage. the length of a
paddle has nothing to do with its relation to you height. there is no
constant there when I measure someone for a paddle I ask them two things
paddling style and usage. I throw away the math the equations take a broom
stick place one hand on top like on a paddle and then let you other hand
slide down the side till you are comfortable with that distance as your arms
rest apart. that is you shaft distance. that's all that stay almost
consistent. If your shaft distance is 33" and you are paddling a C-1
whitewater paddle the paddle will come to a different height on you compared
to a river tripping paddle short blade but wide and a lake paddle narrow and
longer then the rest. one blade would come in at something like 18" and
another at 26" and maybe the last at 28" all depending so each paddle would
come in at a different height next to your body.It is the distance your
hands set apart. Many say take the paddle hold it over your head with both
arms at a 90 degree bend. I use the broom handle because it does not lead
you visually most paddlers get the urge to let there hand go towards the
blade even if the shaft is too long. The broom handle is neutral and you are
left with only the feel of it in my case my arms rest short of 90 if I hold
them up and when I paddle solo I pick a slightly longer paddle as where some
pick a sorter paddle preference and ability matters in that area trial and
error for myself I go longer on solo because of two bad knees so I need the
paddle to make up for the lack of body mobility to shift while performing
complex stroke. I if you are in the stern or bow the boat should at most
only be slightly of trim give circumstances and your position the bow puts
you further away sometimes but your average height should still give you
some room on the handle. Good luck picking through the paddle world.

--
Abe Elias
Diving Sparrow Paddle Co,
http://home.cogeco.ca/~aelias
"Richard Ferguson" wrote in message
...
I am signed up for a canoe course in May, and my local paddle shop has a
sale this week, so I am looking to upgrade my canoe setup. I have an
Old Town Camper Canoe, 16 foot, plastic, wide and with a flat bottom.

1. Floats are recommended for the canoe course. I measured my boat, 36
inches from the inside of the stern to the back of the rear seat, and 55
inches from the inside of the bow to the front of the front seat.
Available end floats seem to be around 30" or 40" long. I am tempted to
get the 30 inch float for the front, to avoid losing too much legroom
for the bow paddler, and 40" for the back, which would actually extend
under the rear seat. Does this seem reasonable? I am buying floats for
tandem paddling, but may ocasionally paddle it solo, and will probably
be solo for the class. I may get a center float later.

2. How do I attach the float bags? I understand that one usually mounts
eyes to the gunnels, but these gunnels are plastic box sections, so I
can't get inside the gunnel to use a backing plate and throughbolts,
which is how I like to install hardware on plastic or fiberglass. I am
concerned about using screws on plastic, but perhaps stainless sheet
metal screws would work.

3. I have a 60" paddle, a 54" paddle, and a 48" paddle, all ordinary
wood paddles. I am 5' 11" and usually sit in the stern. My local shop
does not carry paddles more than 60" long, except for heavy plastic raft
paddles. Is the 54" paddle too short for someone my size in the bow? I
have a book that claims stern paddles come to your eyes, bow to your
chin; by that standard I need to go 6 inches longer, bow and stern. The
48" paddle is the spare or for kids. I don't want to spend $75 on a
paddle. Should I get a longer paddle? If so, where can I order it?

Any comments would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.

Richard

"Richard Ferguson" wrote in message
...
I am signed up for a canoe course in May, and my local paddle shop has a
sale this week, so I am looking to upgrade my canoe setup. I have an
Old Town Camper Canoe, 16 foot, plastic, wide and with a flat bottom.

1. Floats are recommended for the canoe course. I measured my boat, 36
inches from the inside of the stern to the back of the rear seat, and 55
inches from the inside of the bow to the front of the front seat.
Available end floats seem to be around 30" or 40" long. I am tempted to
get the 30 inch float for the front, to avoid losing too much legroom
for the bow paddler, and 40" for the back, which would actually extend
under the rear seat. Does this seem reasonable? I am buying floats for
tandem paddling, but may ocasionally paddle it solo, and will probably
be solo for the class. I may get a center float later.


There really isn't any way around the hassle of rigging floatation for solo
and tandem. Mostly what you want it for is to make self-rescue possible, so
smaller nose and stern bags should work ok for both solo and tandem. If you
are going to do sustained big water, then you'll need the complete outfit.
And maybe rethink the choice of boat too.

2. How do I attach the float bags? I understand that one usually mounts
eyes to the gunnels, but these gunnels are plastic box sections,
....
Probably they're vinyl over aluminum extrusions. You can probably screw
into them with sheet metal screws. Some people drill through the shell just
below the gunnel and lace through there. Cheaper, lighter, easier to adapt
to changing bag configurations, less hassle, arguably more reliable. Don't
do the obvious thing and wrap around the gunnel. Lace fore and aft under
it.
....
3. I have a 60" paddle, a 54" paddle, and a 48" paddle, all ordinary
wood paddles. I am 5' 11" and usually sit in the stern. My local shop
does not carry paddles more than 60" long, except for heavy plastic raft
paddles. Is the 54" paddle too short for someone my size in the bow? I
have a book that claims stern paddles come to your eyes, bow to your
chin; by that standard I need to go 6 inches longer, bow and stern. The
48" paddle is the spare or for kids. I don't want to spend $75 on a
paddle. Should I get a longer paddle? If so, where can I order it?

Don't get a new paddle before the course. Try different lengths there. Get
advice from the instructor after she sees how you paddle. Get a cheap
paddle of the right length after that. Spend a lot of money for a good
paddle after you can tell the difference.

Hth,
Fred Klingener

Richard wrote :
I measured my boat, 36
inches from the inside of the stern to the back of the rear seat, and 55
inches from the inside of the bow to the front of the front seat.

Are you sure ? 55 inches puts the bow station about a third of the way back from the bow entry point and would make for a stern
heavy trim with almost any combination of paddlers. I think if this is the case, when tandem paddling I'd be tempted to adjust the
bow seat forward for more reasonable trim.

The paddle length question is much more problematic. Since you're a beginner it could well change over time as your style gets
more true. The best way, I believe, is to get into the canoe on the water with several length paddles. Either sit or kneel depending
on your predominant way. Grab a paddle grip with your grip hand and put it against your forehead. Then push it straight out
horizontally so that the paddle is at the vertical, the grip stays in the same horizontal plane, and the blade in the water. Slide
the shaft hand down to within about 4 to 6 inches above the throat of the paddle. When you find a length at which the top 2 inches
of the blade is above the waterline then give it a try for awhile. It should work well for you if your forward stroke technique is
decent and you'll probably end up with a paddle length that works well for you over time. I hear many folks say that paddle length
really should be whatever you're used to or just happen to like. I met a guy like that who paddled with a 62 inch overall length. He
said it was what he's always used and it didn't really make any difference anyhow. I watched him paddle over the course of a weekend
trip with the throat of his paddle about a foot below the bottom of his hull. The efficiency was terrible. Of the hundreds of
strokes taken he was wasting a great deal of energy and struggling to boot. A better length would have greatly benefited him but he
just couldn't see it. Hope this helps.

John S.



"Richard Ferguson" wrote in message ...
I am signed up for a canoe course in May, and my local paddle shop has a
sale this week, so I am looking to upgrade my canoe setup. I have an
Old Town Camper Canoe, 16 foot, plastic, wide and with a flat bottom.

1. Floats are recommended for the canoe course. I measured my boat, 36
inches from the inside of the stern to the back of the rear seat, and 55
inches from the inside of the bow to the front of the front seat.
Available end floats seem to be around 30" or 40" long. I am tempted to
get the 30 inch float for the front, to avoid losing too much legroom
for the bow paddler, and 40" for the back, which would actually extend
under the rear seat. Does this seem reasonable? I am buying floats for
tandem paddling, but may ocasionally paddle it solo, and will probably
be solo for the class. I may get a center float later.

2. How do I attach the float bags? I understand that one usually mounts
eyes to the gunnels, but these gunnels are plastic box sections, so I
can't get inside the gunnel to use a backing plate and throughbolts,
which is how I like to install hardware on plastic or fiberglass. I am
concerned about using screws on plastic, but perhaps stainless sheet
metal screws would work.

3. I have a 60" paddle, a 54" paddle, and a 48" paddle, all ordinary
wood paddles. I am 5' 11" and usually sit in the stern. My local shop
does not carry paddles more than 60" long, except for heavy plastic raft
paddles. Is the 54" paddle too short for someone my size in the bow? I
have a book that claims stern paddles come to your eyes, bow to your
chin; by that standard I need to go 6 inches longer, bow and stern. The
48" paddle is the spare or for kids. I don't want to spend $75 on a
paddle. Should I get a longer paddle? If so, where can I order it?

Any comments would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.

Richard