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Aligning engine to shaft(13 hp yanmar 2gmf on sailboat)
Years ago when I installed this diesel in my sailboat, I read about
aligning the engine output shaft with the prop shaft by using a valve clearance guage to check all round the round pieces that bolt the two together. One would tighten or loosen the engine mounts to make it the same all round. I can no longer find these directions and am having problems getting it just right. One side is off by .008" and all I can think of is slightly rotating the engine (about a vertical axis) by pushing against the engine mounts but this doesnt sound right. Thoughts? |
Aligning engine to shaft(13 hp yanmar 2gmf on sailboat)
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Aligning engine to shaft(13 hp yanmar 2gmf on sailboat)
wrote in message ... Years ago when I installed this diesel in my sailboat, I read about aligning the engine output shaft with the prop shaft by using a valve clearance guage to check all round the round pieces that bolt the two together. One would tighten or loosen the engine mounts to make it the same all round. I can no longer find these directions and am having problems getting it just right. One side is off by .008" and all I can think of is slightly rotating the engine (about a vertical axis) by pushing against the engine mounts but this doesnt sound right. Thoughts? DB, You're doing it right. I couldn't remember the tolerance so did a google on aligning sailboat engine and found this on a site ( http://www.alberg30.org/maintenance/...ineMounts.html) about swapping an Atomic 4 for a diesel: The most critical part of an engine replacement is the new engine alignment with the prop shaft. The tolerance on this is .004" maximum. This measurement is taken between the engine flange and the shaft flange. It is in two planes, vertical and horizontal. If you can't get that close you probably need shims. |
Aligning engine to shaft(13 hp yanmar 2gmf on sailboat)
On Oct 19, 6:33 pm, "mmc" wrote:
wrote in message ... Years ago when I installed this diesel in my sailboat, I read about aligning the engine output shaft with the prop shaft by using a valve clearance guage to check all round the round pieces that bolt the two together. One would tighten or loosen the engine mounts to make it the same all round. I can no longer find these directions and am having problems getting it just right. One side is off by .008" and all I can think of is slightly rotating the engine (about a vertical axis) by pushing against the engine mounts but this doesnt sound right. Thoughts? DB, You're doing it right. I couldn't remember the tolerance so did a google on aligning sailboat engine and found this on a site (http://www.alberg30.org/maintenance/...n/Diesel/Insta...) about swapping an Atomic 4 for a diesel: The most critical part of an engine replacement is the new engine alignment with the prop shaft. The tolerance on this is .004" maximum. This measurement is taken between the engine flange and the shaft flange. It is in two planes, vertical and horizontal. If you can't get that close you probably need shims. mmc, thanks. I was considering living with my .008" diff but I'll give it another try. However, I think the height and horizontal adjustment are dead on. Unfortunatly, the plane of the engine output flange is misaligned by roughly .3 degrees (three tenths of a degree). I got this number by taking the size of the gap between the two flanges (.008) divided by the radius of the flange and taking the arc tan. I really think I should use the diameter of the flange which would give me .15 degree. Is this close enough? The bolts slide in very easily indicating good alignment. |
Aligning engine to shaft(13 hp yanmar 2gmf on sailboat)
On Oct 19, 10:16 pm, jim wrote:
wrote: On Oct 19, 6:33 pm, "mmc" wrote: wrote in message ... Years ago when I installed this diesel in my sailboat, I read about aligning the engine output shaft with the prop shaft by using a valve clearance guage to check all round the round pieces that bolt the two together. One would tighten or loosen the engine mounts to make it the same all round. I can no longer find these directions and am having problems getting it just right. One side is off by .008" and all I can think of is slightly rotating the engine (about a vertical axis) by pushing against the engine mounts but this doesnt sound right. Thoughts? DB, You're doing it right. I couldn't remember the tolerance so did a google on aligning sailboat engine and found this on a site (http://www.alberg30.org/maintenance/...n/Diesel/Insta...) about swapping an Atomic 4 for a diesel: The most critical part of an engine replacement is the new engine alignment with the prop shaft. The tolerance on this is .004" maximum. This measurement is taken between the engine flange and the shaft flange. It is in two planes, vertical and horizontal. If you can't get that close you probably need shims. mmc, thanks. I was considering living with my .008" diff but I'll give it another try. However, I think the height and horizontal adjustment are dead on. Unfortunatly, the plane of the engine output flange is misaligned by roughly .3 degrees (three tenths of a degree). I got this number by taking the size of the gap between the two flanges (.008) divided by the radius of the flange and taking the arc tan. I really think I should use the diameter of the flange which would give me .15 degree. Is this close enough? The bolts slide in very easily indicating good alignment. Take your time and do it right. I wouldn't settle for more than .002 difference top to bottom or left to right. Also you want to rotate the engine and prop shaft 90 degrees and check again after you think you have it right. You will be rewarded with a lot less noise and vibration. I will do so. This necessitates taking apart part of the bulkhead around the engine compartment but it is intended to be taken apart. Then, I get a large crowbar and brace it against the engine mount whilst I pound on it to slowly shift the front of the engine. At least its no longer 100 degrees down below. |
Aligning engine to shaft(13 hp yanmar 2gmf on sailboat)
wrote:
On Oct 19, 10:16 pm, jim wrote: wrote: On Oct 19, 6:33 pm, "mmc" wrote: wrote in message ... Years ago when I installed this diesel in my sailboat, I read about aligning the engine output shaft with the prop shaft by using a valve clearance guage to check all round the round pieces that bolt the two together. One would tighten or loosen the engine mounts to make it the same all round. I can no longer find these directions and am having problems getting it just right. One side is off by .008" and all I can think of is slightly rotating the engine (about a vertical axis) by pushing against the engine mounts but this doesnt sound right. Thoughts? DB, You're doing it right. I couldn't remember the tolerance so did a google on aligning sailboat engine and found this on a site (http://www.alberg30.org/maintenance/...n/Diesel/Insta...) about swapping an Atomic 4 for a diesel: The most critical part of an engine replacement is the new engine alignment with the prop shaft. The tolerance on this is .004" maximum. This measurement is taken between the engine flange and the shaft flange. It is in two planes, vertical and horizontal. If you can't get that close you probably need shims. mmc, thanks. I was considering living with my .008" diff but I'll give it another try. However, I think the height and horizontal adjustment are dead on. Unfortunatly, the plane of the engine output flange is misaligned by roughly .3 degrees (three tenths of a degree). I got this number by taking the size of the gap between the two flanges (.008) divided by the radius of the flange and taking the arc tan. I really think I should use the diameter of the flange which would give me .15 degree. Is this close enough? The bolts slide in very easily indicating good alignment. Take your time and do it right. I wouldn't settle for more than .002 difference top to bottom or left to right. Also you want to rotate the engine and prop shaft 90 degrees and check again after you think you have it right. You will be rewarded with a lot less noise and vibration. I will do so. This necessitates taking apart part of the bulkhead around the engine compartment but it is intended to be taken apart. Then, I get a large crowbar and brace it against the engine mount whilst I pound on it to slowly shift the front of the engine. At least its no longer 100 degrees down below. Gentlemen do not pound on engines. Can't you get at the mounts to loosen them you can adjust them or move the motor? |
Aligning engine to shaft(13 hp yanmar 2gmf on sailboat)
On Oct 19, 10:42 pm, jim wrote:
wrote: On Oct 19, 10:16 pm, jim wrote: wrote: On Oct 19, 6:33 pm, "mmc" wrote: wrote in message ... Years ago when I installed this diesel in my sailboat, I read about aligning the engine output shaft with the prop shaft by using a valve clearance guage to check all round the round pieces that bolt the two together. One would tighten or loosen the engine mounts to make it the same all round. I can no longer find these directions and am having problems getting it just right. One side is off by .008" and all I can think of is slightly rotating the engine (about a vertical axis) by pushing against the engine mounts but this doesnt sound right. Thoughts? DB, You're doing it right. I couldn't remember the tolerance so did a google on aligning sailboat engine and found this on a site (http://www.alberg30.org/maintenance/...n/Diesel/Insta...) about swapping an Atomic 4 for a diesel: The most critical part of an engine replacement is the new engine alignment with the prop shaft. The tolerance on this is .004" maximum. This measurement is taken between the engine flange and the shaft flange. It is in two planes, vertical and horizontal. If you can't get that close you probably need shims. mmc, thanks. I was considering living with my .008" diff but I'll give it another try. However, I think the height and horizontal adjustment are dead on. Unfortunatly, the plane of the engine output flange is misaligned by roughly .3 degrees (three tenths of a degree). I got this number by taking the size of the gap between the two flanges (.008) divided by the radius of the flange and taking the arc tan. I really think I should use the diameter of the flange which would give me .15 degree. Is this close enough? The bolts slide in very easily indicating good alignment. Take your time and do it right. I wouldn't settle for more than .002 difference top to bottom or left to right. Also you want to rotate the engine and prop shaft 90 degrees and check again after you think you have it right. You will be rewarded with a lot less noise and vibration. I will do so. This necessitates taking apart part of the bulkhead around the engine compartment but it is intended to be taken apart. Then, I get a large crowbar and brace it against the engine mount whilst I pound on it to slowly shift the front of the engine. At least its no longer 100 degrees down below. Gentlemen do not pound on engines. Can't you get at the mounts to loosen them you can adjust them or move the motor? Mounts are each held to the mahoganey stringers with 2 lag bolts. The mounts have elongated holes. In theory, you could loosen the lag bolts and somehow lever the engine sideways. In reality, the easiest way considering the lack of room is to place the end of the crowbar against the base of the mount and tap the other end of the crowbar to nudge the engine over. Considering the length of the engine and diameter of the flange and the gap of .008 at the side of the flange, I figure i need to move the forward end of the engine toward port by . 1". |
Aligning engine to shaft(13 hp yanmar 2gmf on sailboat)
wrote:
On Oct 19, 10:42 pm, jim wrote: wrote: On Oct 19, 10:16 pm, jim wrote: wrote: On Oct 19, 6:33 pm, "mmc" wrote: wrote in message ... Years ago when I installed this diesel in my sailboat, I read about aligning the engine output shaft with the prop shaft by using a valve clearance guage to check all round the round pieces that bolt the two together. One would tighten or loosen the engine mounts to make it the same all round. I can no longer find these directions and am having problems getting it just right. One side is off by .008" and all I can think of is slightly rotating the engine (about a vertical axis) by pushing against the engine mounts but this doesnt sound right. Thoughts? DB, You're doing it right. I couldn't remember the tolerance so did a google on aligning sailboat engine and found this on a site (http://www.alberg30.org/maintenance/...n/Diesel/Insta...) about swapping an Atomic 4 for a diesel: The most critical part of an engine replacement is the new engine alignment with the prop shaft. The tolerance on this is .004" maximum. This measurement is taken between the engine flange and the shaft flange. It is in two planes, vertical and horizontal. If you can't get that close you probably need shims. mmc, thanks. I was considering living with my .008" diff but I'll give it another try. However, I think the height and horizontal adjustment are dead on. Unfortunatly, the plane of the engine output flange is misaligned by roughly .3 degrees (three tenths of a degree). I got this number by taking the size of the gap between the two flanges (.008) divided by the radius of the flange and taking the arc tan. I really think I should use the diameter of the flange which would give me .15 degree. Is this close enough? The bolts slide in very easily indicating good alignment. Take your time and do it right. I wouldn't settle for more than .002 difference top to bottom or left to right. Also you want to rotate the engine and prop shaft 90 degrees and check again after you think you have it right. You will be rewarded with a lot less noise and vibration. I will do so. This necessitates taking apart part of the bulkhead around the engine compartment but it is intended to be taken apart. Then, I get a large crowbar and brace it against the engine mount whilst I pound on it to slowly shift the front of the engine. At least its no longer 100 degrees down below. Gentlemen do not pound on engines. Can't you get at the mounts to loosen them you can adjust them or move the motor? Mounts are each held to the mahoganey stringers with 2 lag bolts. The mounts have elongated holes. In theory, you could loosen the lag bolts and somehow lever the engine sideways. In reality, the easiest way considering the lack of room is to place the end of the crowbar against the base of the mount and tap the other end of the crowbar to nudge the engine over. Considering the length of the engine and diameter of the flange and the gap of .008 at the side of the flange, I figure i need to move the forward end of the engine toward port by . 1". That's easy enough to work out. The coupler diameter is what? what is the distance between the mating face of the coupler transmission end to the centerline between the front engine mounts? |
Aligning engine to shaft(13 hp yanmar 2gmf on sailboat)
On Oct 20, 10:50 am, jim wrote:
wrote: On Oct 19, 10:42 pm, jim wrote: wrote: On Oct 19, 10:16 pm, jim wrote: wrote: On Oct 19, 6:33 pm, "mmc" wrote: wrote in message ... Years ago when I installed this diesel in my sailboat, I read about aligning the engine output shaft with the prop shaft by using a valve clearance guage to check all round the round pieces that bolt the two together. One would tighten or loosen the engine mounts to make it the same all round. I can no longer find these directions and am having problems getting it just right. One side is off by .008" and all I can think of is slightly rotating the engine (about a vertical axis) by pushing against the engine mounts but this doesnt sound right. Thoughts? DB, You're doing it right. I couldn't remember the tolerance so did a google on aligning sailboat engine and found this on a site (http://www.alberg30.org/maintenance/...n/Diesel/Insta...) about swapping an Atomic 4 for a diesel: The most critical part of an engine replacement is the new engine alignment with the prop shaft. The tolerance on this is .004" maximum. This measurement is taken between the engine flange and the shaft flange. It is in two planes, vertical and horizontal. If you can't get that close you probably need shims. mmc, thanks. I was considering living with my .008" diff but I'll give it another try. However, I think the height and horizontal adjustment are dead on. Unfortunatly, the plane of the engine output flange is misaligned by roughly .3 degrees (three tenths of a degree). I got this number by taking the size of the gap between the two flanges (.008) divided by the radius of the flange and taking the arc tan. I really think I should use the diameter of the flange which would give me .15 degree. Is this close enough? The bolts slide in very easily indicating good alignment. Take your time and do it right. I wouldn't settle for more than .002 difference top to bottom or left to right. Also you want to rotate the engine and prop shaft 90 degrees and check again after you think you have it right. You will be rewarded with a lot less noise and vibration. I will do so. This necessitates taking apart part of the bulkhead around the engine compartment but it is intended to be taken apart. Then, I get a large crowbar and brace it against the engine mount whilst I pound on it to slowly shift the front of the engine. At least its no longer 100 degrees down below. Gentlemen do not pound on engines. Can't you get at the mounts to loosen them you can adjust them or move the motor? Mounts are each held to the mahoganey stringers with 2 lag bolts. The mounts have elongated holes. In theory, you could loosen the lag bolts and somehow lever the engine sideways. In reality, the easiest way considering the lack of room is to place the end of the crowbar against the base of the mount and tap the other end of the crowbar to nudge the engine over. Considering the length of the engine and diameter of the flange and the gap of .008 at the side of the flange, I figure i need to move the forward end of the engine toward port by . 1". That's easy enough to work out. The coupler diameter is what? what is the distance between the mating face of the coupler transmission end to the centerline between the front engine mounts? Jim: That is how I came up with the .1". |
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