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Larry W July 31st 08 03:37 AM

Mercrusier starter mounting bolt problem
 
Just a heads-up to anyone replacing a starter in an I/O Mercrusier.

I've replaced dozens of Mercrusier starters and I always use the best new
starters available from the same supplier. I've never had a premature failure of
the starter itself.

I replaced one in a 3.0 about a month ago and it was the first starter that came
with new mounting bolts.

Customer called Sunday with a complaint that the starter was making a funny
noise. Turns out the long mounting bolt had failed/sheared off (see link below).
There was nothing unusual about the install and I know I didn't over tighten it.

Luckily, with the help of an angle drill, mirror and an ez-out, I was able to
make everyone happy but I am going to rethink using supplied bolts.

http://www.rovatune.com/starterbolt.jpg

Larry

Eisboch July 31st 08 03:50 AM

Mercrusier starter mounting bolt problem
 

"Larry W" wrote in message
...
Just a heads-up to anyone replacing a starter in an I/O Mercrusier.

I've replaced dozens of Mercrusier starters and I always use the best new
starters available from the same supplier. I've never had a premature
failure of the starter itself.

I replaced one in a 3.0 about a month ago and it was the first starter
that came with new mounting bolts.

Customer called Sunday with a complaint that the starter was making a
funny noise. Turns out the long mounting bolt had failed/sheared off (see
link below). There was nothing unusual about the install and I know I
didn't over tighten it.

Luckily, with the help of an angle drill, mirror and an ez-out, I was able
to make everyone happy but I am going to rethink using supplied bolts.

http://www.rovatune.com/starterbolt.jpg

Larry



Made in China?

Eisboch



billgran July 31st 08 04:44 AM

Mercrusier starter mounting bolt problem
 

"Larry W" wrote in message
...
Just a heads-up to anyone replacing a starter in an I/O Mercrusier.



I replaced one in a 3.0 about a month ago and it was the first starter
that came with new mounting bolts.

Customer called Sunday with a complaint that the starter was making a
funny noise. Turns out the long mounting bolt had failed/sheared off (see
link below). There was nothing unusual about the install and I know I
didn't over tighten it.



Quite a few years back, MercCruiser, Volvo, and OMC had starter bolt
breakage problems with the 3.0L motor due to vibration the first year GM
changed to the small-diameter permanent-magnet starter housing. Each company
sent out service bulletins about, and incorporated into the following years
line-up, an L-shaped bracket from the back of the new starter to the engine
block. The bracket kept the starter from wobbling when the motor was idling,
thus keeping the bolts intact without breaking.

See your dealer for the bracket and hardware as I'm guessing that it was
probably not installed and tightened like it should have been. One bolt on
the back of the correct starter has a threaded stud for the bracket,
lockwasher, and nut. There is a threaded hole in the engine block for a
bolt to fasten the other end of the bracket.

Bill Grannis
service manager



Tim July 31st 08 09:11 AM

Mercrusier starter mounting bolt problem
 
On Jul 30, 9:37 pm, Larry W wrote:
Just a heads-up to anyone replacing a starter in an I/O Mercrusier.

I've replaced dozens of Mercrusier starters and I always use the best new
starters available from the same supplier. I've never had a premature failure of
the starter itself.

I replaced one in a 3.0 about a month ago and it was the first starter that came
with new mounting bolts.

Customer called Sunday with a complaint that the starter was making a funny
noise. Turns out the long mounting bolt had failed/sheared off (see link below).
There was nothing unusual about the install and I know I didn't over tighten it.

Luckily, with the help of an angle drill, mirror and an ez-out, I was able to
make everyone happy but I am going to rethink using supplied bolts.

http://www.rovatune.com/starterbolt.jpg

Larry


Then again, I've seen seemingly countless OE bolts broken off in the
block. especially 350 chevy's. Oh and naturally it would mostly break
on the 'inside" bolt, too!

Tim July 31st 08 01:14 PM

Mercrusier starter mounting bolt problem
 
On Jul 30, 9:37 pm, Larry W wrote:
Just a heads-up to anyone replacing a starter in an I/O Mercrusier.

I've replaced dozens of Mercrusier starters and I always use the best new
starters available from the same supplier. I've never had a premature failure of
the starter itself.

I replaced one in a 3.0 about a month ago and it was the first starter that came
with new mounting bolts.

Customer called Sunday with a complaint that the starter was making a funny
noise. Turns out the long mounting bolt had failed/sheared off (see link below).
There was nothing unusual about the install and I know I didn't over tighten it.

Luckily, with the help of an angle drill, mirror and an ez-out, I was able to
make everyone happy but I am going to rethink using supplied bolts.

http://www.rovatune.com/starterbolt.jpg

Larry


Larry, it could be you just got a bad bolt, too.


Larry W July 31st 08 03:36 PM

Mercrusier starter mounting bolt problem
 
Billgran wrote:
"Larry W" wrote in message
...
Just a heads-up to anyone replacing a starter in an I/O Mercrusier.


I replaced one in a 3.0 about a month ago and it was the first starter
that came with new mounting bolts.

Customer called Sunday with a complaint that the starter was making a
funny noise. Turns out the long mounting bolt had failed/sheared off (see
link below). There was nothing unusual about the install and I know I
didn't over tighten it.



Quite a few years back, MercCruiser, Volvo, and OMC had starter bolt
breakage problems with the 3.0L motor due to vibration the first year GM
changed to the small-diameter permanent-magnet starter housing. Each company
sent out service bulletins about, and incorporated into the following years
line-up, an L-shaped bracket from the back of the new starter to the engine
block. The bracket kept the starter from wobbling when the motor was idling,
thus keeping the bolts intact without breaking.

See your dealer for the bracket and hardware as I'm guessing that it was
probably not installed and tightened like it should have been. One bolt on
the back of the correct starter has a threaded stud for the bracket,
lockwasher, and nut. There is a threaded hole in the engine block for a
bolt to fasten the other end of the bracket.

Bill Grannis
service manager



Thanks Bill,

I've replaced many starters with the bracket but didn't know about the service
bulletin. I'm going back and install one today.

I think Tim is right that this was just a bad bolt. According to the customer
they only used the boat twice since the replacement.

Larry

Tim July 31st 08 05:09 PM

Mercrusier starter mounting bolt problem
 
On Jul 31, 9:36*am, Larry W wrote:
Billgran wrote:
"Larry W" wrote in message
...
Just a heads-up to anyone replacing a starter in an I/O Mercrusier.


I replaced one in a 3.0 about a month ago and it was the first starter
that came with new mounting bolts.


Customer called Sunday with a complaint that the starter was making a
funny noise. Turns out the long mounting bolt had failed/sheared off (see
link below). There was nothing unusual about the install and I know I
didn't over tighten it.


Quite a few years back, MercCruiser, Volvo, and OMC had starter bolt
breakage problems with the 3.0L motor due to vibration the first year GM
changed to the small-diameter permanent-magnet starter housing. Each company
sent out service bulletins about, and incorporated into the following years
line-up, an L-shaped bracket from the back of the new starter to the engine
block. The bracket kept the starter from wobbling when the motor was idling,
thus keeping the bolts intact without breaking.


See your dealer for the bracket and hardware as I'm guessing that it was
probably not installed and tightened like it should have been. One bolt on
the back of the correct starter has a threaded stud for the bracket,
lockwasher, and nut. There is a threaded hole in the engine block for *a
bolt to fasten the *other end of the bracket.


Bill Grannis
service manager


Thanks Bill,

I've replaced many starters with the bracket but didn't know about the service
bulletin. I'm going back and install one today.

I think Tim is right that this was just a bad bolt. According to the customer
they only used the boat twice since the replacement.

Larry- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -


Yes, Larry. Notice where the bolt broke, right at the base of the
threads.
From what I understand, that when cutting the threads, sometimes the
die will stress the bolt at the base of the thread. it's not common,
but it does happen.

By the looks of the threaded end, evidently all was clean when it was
installed. I'm glad you were able to dig it out, especially in the
position you had to work with.

I know you've already done the work, but I probably would have put one
of the origional bolts back in.

Larry W July 31st 08 07:10 PM

Mercrusier starter mounting bolt problem
 
Tim wrote:
On Jul 31, 9:36 am, Larry W wrote:
Billgran wrote:
"Larry W" wrote in message
...
Just a heads-up to anyone replacing a starter in an I/O Mercrusier.
I replaced one in a 3.0 about a month ago and it was the first starter
that came with new mounting bolts.
Customer called Sunday with a complaint that the starter was making a
funny noise. Turns out the long mounting bolt had failed/sheared off (see
link below). There was nothing unusual about the install and I know I
didn't over tighten it.
Quite a few years back, MercCruiser, Volvo, and OMC had starter bolt
breakage problems with the 3.0L motor due to vibration the first year GM
changed to the small-diameter permanent-magnet starter housing. Each company
sent out service bulletins about, and incorporated into the following years
line-up, an L-shaped bracket from the back of the new starter to the engine
block. The bracket kept the starter from wobbling when the motor was idling,
thus keeping the bolts intact without breaking.
See your dealer for the bracket and hardware as I'm guessing that it was
probably not installed and tightened like it should have been. One bolt on
the back of the correct starter has a threaded stud for the bracket,
lockwasher, and nut. There is a threaded hole in the engine block for a
bolt to fasten the other end of the bracket.
Bill Grannis
service manager

Thanks Bill,

I've replaced many starters with the bracket but didn't know about the service
bulletin. I'm going back and install one today.

I think Tim is right that this was just a bad bolt. According to the customer
they only used the boat twice since the replacement.

Larry- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -


Yes, Larry. Notice where the bolt broke, right at the base of the
threads.
From what I understand, that when cutting the threads, sometimes the
die will stress the bolt at the base of the thread. it's not common,
but it does happen.

By the looks of the threaded end, evidently all was clean when it was
installed. I'm glad you were able to dig it out, especially in the
position you had to work with.

I know you've already done the work, but I probably would have put one
of the origional bolts back in.


Tim,

Yup, old bolt back in.

I do a lot of starters on the 8 lakes I service especially this year with the
amount of rain we've had. People don't realize the need for a decent cover or
automatic bilge - that's OK with me.

Larry

JR North July 31st 08 09:45 PM

Mercrusier starter mounting bolt problem
 
Metallurgy can be defective sometimes. I used SS bolts on my Mercruiser
starter-not likely to snap even if you reefed on the torque. Had a shock
absorber once that snapped the upper stud a while after installation.
Poor metallurgy. Your bolt failed at a stress riser point, right where
the thread ends. This is right where a torque failure would occur.
JR


Larry W wrote:
Just a heads-up to anyone replacing a starter in an I/O Mercrusier.

I've replaced dozens of Mercrusier starters and I always use the best
new starters available from the same supplier. I've never had a
premature failure of the starter itself.

I replaced one in a 3.0 about a month ago and it was the first starter
that came with new mounting bolts.

Customer called Sunday with a complaint that the starter was making a
funny noise. Turns out the long mounting bolt had failed/sheared off
(see link below). There was nothing unusual about the install and I know
I didn't over tighten it.

Luckily, with the help of an angle drill, mirror and an ez-out, I was
able to make everyone happy but I am going to rethink using supplied bolts.

http://www.rovatune.com/starterbolt.jpg

Larry


--
--------------------------------------------------------------
Home Page: http://www.seanet.com/~jasonrnorth

[email protected] August 1st 08 04:59 PM

Mercrusier starter mounting bolt problem
 
On Jul 31, 4:45*pm, JR North wrote:
Metallurgy can be defective sometimes. I used SS bolts on my Mercruiser
starter-not likely to snap even if you reefed on the torque. Had a shock
absorber once that snapped the upper stud a while after installation.
Poor metallurgy. Your bolt failed at a stress riser point, right where
the thread ends. This is right where a torque failure would occur.
JR





Larry W wrote:
Just a heads-up to anyone replacing a starter in an I/O Mercrusier.


I've replaced dozens of Mercrusier starters and I always use the best
new starters available from the same supplier. I've never had a
premature failure of the starter itself.


I replaced one in a 3.0 about a month ago and it was the first starter
that came with new mounting bolts.


Customer called Sunday with a complaint that the starter was making a
funny noise. Turns out the long mounting bolt had failed/sheared off
(see link below). There was nothing unusual about the install and I know
I didn't over tighten it.


Luckily, with the help of an angle drill, mirror and an ez-out, I was
able to make everyone happy but I am going to rethink using supplied bolts.


http://www.rovatune.com/starterbolt.jpg


Larry


--
--------------------------------------------------------------
* * * * Home Page:http://www.seanet.com/~jasonrnorth- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -


Stainless steel is not particularly stronger that ordinary steel.
It's just stainless. If you want stronger then you need grade 5 or
grade 7 bolts.

The v8/v6 starter mounting has had that bracket from the back of the
starter to the block for a long time. I'm surprised someone had to
figure it out again on the 4 banger.

Calif Bill August 2nd 08 12:57 AM

Mercrusier starter mounting bolt problem
 

"Larry W" wrote in message
...
Tim wrote:
On Aug 1, 10:59 am, wrote:

Stainless steel is not particularly stronger that ordinary steel.
It's just stainless. If you want stronger then you need grade 5 or
grade 7 bolts.

The v8/v6 starter mounting has had that bracket from the back of the
starter to the block for a long time. I'm surprised someone had to
figure it out again on the 4 banger.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -


Grade 7? I ahven't ehard of 7, but am familiar with grade 8.


I'm thinking that the reason that the brace was gone is probably
because somebody had changed out the starter before and deemed the
brace to be a PITA. and left it off with the thought of "We don't need
that after all, all it is...is a bracket!"


It was the original starter that failed and didn't have the bracket.

I have since put my hands on some extra brackets to use on future similar
jobs.

Larry


Problem with grade 8's etc. are they are too strong. They will loosen in a
lot of applications as you can not get enough stretch to preload the bolt.



Eisboch August 2nd 08 02:15 AM

Mercrusier starter mounting bolt problem
 

wrote in message
...

Stainless steel is not particularly stronger that ordinary steel.
It's just stainless. If you want stronger then you need grade 5 or
grade 7 bolts.

--------------------

What he said.

It's a common misconception that "stainless" is stronger than regular steel.

To the contrary. There are many grades of steel that are much stronger than
the common 304, 316 series of stainless.
In fact, the stainless will be more ducal and softer.

Eisboch



Calif Bill August 2nd 08 05:31 AM

Mercrusier starter mounting bolt problem
 

"Eisboch" wrote in message
...

wrote in message
...

Stainless steel is not particularly stronger that ordinary steel.
It's just stainless. If you want stronger then you need grade 5 or
grade 7 bolts.

--------------------

What he said.

It's a common misconception that "stainless" is stronger than regular
steel.

To the contrary. There are many grades of steel that are much stronger
than the common 304, 316 series of stainless.
In fact, the stainless will be more ducal and softer.

Eisboch




Calif Bill August 2nd 08 05:31 AM

Mercrusier starter mounting bolt problem
 

"Eisboch" wrote in message
...

wrote in message
...

Stainless steel is not particularly stronger that ordinary steel.
It's just stainless. If you want stronger then you need grade 5 or
grade 7 bolts.

--------------------

What he said.

It's a common misconception that "stainless" is stronger than regular
steel.

To the contrary. There are many grades of steel that are much stronger
than the common 304, 316 series of stainless.
In fact, the stainless will be more ducal and softer.

Eisboch

--------------------

And it galls and gets nuts stuck really easy if no lube is used.



Calif Bill August 2nd 08 05:32 AM

Mercrusier starter mounting bolt problem
 

"Tim" wrote in message
...
On Aug 1, 6:57 pm, "Calif Bill" wrote:
"Larry W" wrote in message

...



Tim wrote:
On Aug 1, 10:59 am, wrote:


Stainless steel is not particularly stronger that ordinary steel.
It's just stainless. If you want stronger then you need grade 5 or
grade 7 bolts.


The v8/v6 starter mounting has had that bracket from the back of the
starter to the block for a long time. I'm surprised someone had to
figure it out again on the 4 banger.- Hide quoted text -


- Show quoted text -


Grade 7? I ahven't ehard of 7, but am familiar with grade 8.


I'm thinking that the reason that the brace was gone is probably
because somebody had changed out the starter before and deemed the
brace to be a PITA. and left it off with the thought of "We don't need
that after all, all it is...is a bracket!"


It was the original starter that failed and didn't have the bracket.


I have since put my hands on some extra brackets to use on future
similar
jobs.


Larry


Problem with grade 8's etc. are they are too strong. They will loosen in
a
lot of applications as you can not get enough stretch to preload the
bolt.


Bill, you're probably correct, but that's what they make washers for..


Lock nuts.



[email protected] August 4th 08 02:49 PM

Mercrusier starter mounting bolt problem
 
On Aug 1, 7:57*pm, "Calif Bill" wrote:
"Larry W" wrote in message

...





Tim wrote:
On Aug 1, 10:59 am, wrote:


Stainless steel is not particularly stronger that ordinary steel.
It's just stainless. *If you want stronger then you need grade 5 or
grade 7 bolts.


The v8/v6 starter mounting has had that bracket from the back of the
starter to the block for a long time. *I'm surprised someone had to
figure it out again on the 4 banger.- Hide quoted text -


- Show quoted text -


Grade 7? *I ahven't ehard of 7, but am familiar with grade 8.


I'm thinking that the reason that the brace was gone is probably
because somebody had changed out the starter before and deemed the
brace to be a PITA. and left it off with the thought of "We don't need
that after all, all it is...is a bracket!"


It was the original starter that failed and didn't have the bracket.


I have since put my hands on some extra brackets to use on future similar
jobs.


Larry


Problem with grade 8's etc. are they are too strong. *They will loosen in a
lot of applications as you can not get enough stretch to preload the bolt..- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -


My bad, I meant 8. You're right about the preload. You can get
preload on stronger bolts but it takes a whole lot of tightening.
Break out the torque wrench. But in a soft material like a cast block
with that bolt size you'll probably strip the hole before you get
enough. A grade 5 is usually appropriate for most cases where you
need a stronger bolt. I used grade 5 on my alternator mount where I
kept having bolts break. I have not found a source for stainless at
higher strengths but I haven't looked very hard. Since I boat in
fresh water it's not the end of the world if I use non-stainless
sometimes. Lowes has the grade 5s in most common american sizes.

Tim August 4th 08 06:31 PM

Mercrusier starter mounting bolt problem
 
On Aug 4, 8:49*am, wrote:
On Aug 1, 7:57*pm, "Calif Bill" wrote:





"Larry W" wrote in message


...


Tim wrote:
On Aug 1, 10:59 am, wrote:


Stainless steel is not particularly stronger that ordinary steel.
It's just stainless. *If you want stronger then you need grade 5 or
grade 7 bolts.


The v8/v6 starter mounting has had that bracket from the back of the
starter to the block for a long time. *I'm surprised someone had to
figure it out again on the 4 banger.- Hide quoted text -


- Show quoted text -


Grade 7? *I ahven't ehard of 7, but am familiar with grade 8.


I'm thinking that the reason that the brace was gone is probably
because somebody had changed out the starter before and deemed the
brace to be a PITA. and left it off with the thought of "We don't need
that after all, all it is...is a bracket!"


It was the original starter that failed and didn't have the bracket.


I have since put my hands on some extra brackets to use on future similar
jobs.


Larry


Problem with grade 8's etc. are they are too strong. *They will loosen in a
lot of applications as you can not get enough stretch to preload the bolt.- Hide quoted text -


- Show quoted text -


My bad, I meant 8. *You're right about the preload. *You can get
preload on stronger bolts but it takes a whole lot of tightening.
Break out the torque wrench. *But in a soft material like a cast block
with that bolt size you'll probably strip the hole before you get
enough. *A grade 5 is usually appropriate for most cases where you
need a stronger bolt. *I used grade 5 on my alternator mount where I
kept having bolts break. *I have not found a source for stainless at
higher strengths but I haven't looked very hard. *Since I boat in
fresh water it's not the end of the world if I use non-stainless
sometimes. *Lowes has the grade 5s in most common american sizes.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -


Alternator bolts breaking? occasionally I can see that but
consistantly? Somethings up. What's the application? Motorola? or
delco?, and where does the bolt break?

Richard Casady August 5th 08 04:06 AM

Mercrusier starter mounting bolt problem
 
On Mon, 4 Aug 2008 06:49:31 -0700 (PDT), wrote:

On Aug 1, 7:57*pm, "Calif Bill" wrote:
"Larry W" wrote in message

...





Tim wrote:
On Aug 1, 10:59 am, wrote:


Stainless steel is not particularly stronger that ordinary steel.
It's just stainless. *If you want stronger then you need grade 5 or
grade 7 bolts.


The v8/v6 starter mounting has had that bracket from the back of the
starter to the block for a long time. *I'm surprised someone had to
figure it out again on the 4 banger.- Hide quoted text -


- Show quoted text -


Grade 7? *I ahven't ehard of 7, but am familiar with grade 8.


I'm thinking that the reason that the brace was gone is probably
because somebody had changed out the starter before and deemed the
brace to be a PITA. and left it off with the thought of "We don't need
that after all, all it is...is a bracket!"


It was the original starter that failed and didn't have the bracket.


I have since put my hands on some extra brackets to use on future similar
jobs.


Larry


Problem with grade 8's etc. are they are too strong. *They will loosen in a
lot of applications as you can not get enough stretch to preload the bolt.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -


My bad, I meant 8. You're right about the preload. You can get
preload on stronger bolts but it takes a whole lot of tightening.
Break out the torque wrench. But in a soft material like a cast block
with that bolt size you'll probably strip the hole before you get
enough. A grade 5 is usually appropriate for most cases where you
need a stronger bolt. I used grade 5 on my alternator mount where I
kept having bolts break. I have not found a source for stainless at
higher strengths but I haven't looked very hard. Since I boat in
fresh water it's not the end of the world if I use non-stainless
sometimes. Lowes has the grade 5s in most common american sizes.


I don't know why the stretch couldn't be in the hole rather than on
the bolt. Always get plated bolts, which in practice generally means
grade five. If you put a Helicoil in the hole you can safely tighten
it more.

Casady

Calif Bill August 5th 08 05:30 AM

Mercrusier starter mounting bolt problem
 

"Richard Casady" wrote in message
...
On Mon, 4 Aug 2008 06:49:31 -0700 (PDT), wrote:

On Aug 1, 7:57 pm, "Calif Bill" wrote:
"Larry W" wrote in message

...





Tim wrote:
On Aug 1, 10:59 am, wrote:

Stainless steel is not particularly stronger that ordinary steel.
It's just stainless. If you want stronger then you need grade 5 or
grade 7 bolts.

The v8/v6 starter mounting has had that bracket from the back of the
starter to the block for a long time. I'm surprised someone had to
figure it out again on the 4 banger.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Grade 7? I ahven't ehard of 7, but am familiar with grade 8.

I'm thinking that the reason that the brace was gone is probably
because somebody had changed out the starter before and deemed the
brace to be a PITA. and left it off with the thought of "We don't
need
that after all, all it is...is a bracket!"

It was the original starter that failed and didn't have the bracket.

I have since put my hands on some extra brackets to use on future
similar
jobs.

Larry

Problem with grade 8's etc. are they are too strong. They will loosen in
a
lot of applications as you can not get enough stretch to preload the
bolt.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -


My bad, I meant 8. You're right about the preload. You can get
preload on stronger bolts but it takes a whole lot of tightening.
Break out the torque wrench. But in a soft material like a cast block
with that bolt size you'll probably strip the hole before you get
enough. A grade 5 is usually appropriate for most cases where you
need a stronger bolt. I used grade 5 on my alternator mount where I
kept having bolts break. I have not found a source for stainless at
higher strengths but I haven't looked very hard. Since I boat in
fresh water it's not the end of the world if I use non-stainless
sometimes. Lowes has the grade 5s in most common american sizes.


I don't know why the stretch couldn't be in the hole rather than on
the bolt. Always get plated bolts, which in practice generally means
grade five. If you put a Helicoil in the hole you can safely tighten
it more.

Casady


You need the bolt to stretch more than the vibrations will move. You want
the bolt in the elastic range. If too loose, then when a vibration causes a
momentary no load condition on the bolt, the bolt can loosen. If you
tighten it too much, and the threads do not fail in the nut part, the bolt
can get into the plastic range and permanent stretch happens and you get
bolt failure. Do you can not take the stretch in the hole as the bolt
itself as to be stretched. Think of the bolt like a very strong spring.



[email protected] August 5th 08 04:11 PM

Mercrusier starter mounting bolt problem
 
On Aug 4, 1:31*pm, Tim wrote:
On Aug 4, 8:49*am, wrote:





On Aug 1, 7:57*pm, "Calif Bill" wrote:


"Larry W" wrote in message


...


Tim wrote:
On Aug 1, 10:59 am, wrote:


Stainless steel is not particularly stronger that ordinary steel.
It's just stainless. *If you want stronger then you need grade 5 or
grade 7 bolts.


The v8/v6 starter mounting has had that bracket from the back of the
starter to the block for a long time. *I'm surprised someone had to
figure it out again on the 4 banger.- Hide quoted text -


- Show quoted text -


Grade 7? *I ahven't ehard of 7, but am familiar with grade 8.


I'm thinking that the reason that the brace was gone is probably
because somebody had changed out the starter before and deemed the
brace to be a PITA. and left it off with the thought of "We don't need
that after all, all it is...is a bracket!"


It was the original starter that failed and didn't have the bracket..


I have since put my hands on some extra brackets to use on future similar
jobs.


Larry


Problem with grade 8's etc. are they are too strong. *They will loosen in a
lot of applications as you can not get enough stretch to preload the bolt.- Hide quoted text -


- Show quoted text -


My bad, I meant 8. *You're right about the preload. *You can get
preload on stronger bolts but it takes a whole lot of tightening.
Break out the torque wrench. *But in a soft material like a cast block
with that bolt size you'll probably strip the hole before you get
enough. *A grade 5 is usually appropriate for most cases where you
need a stronger bolt. *I used grade 5 on my alternator mount where I
kept having bolts break. *I have not found a source for stainless at
higher strengths but I haven't looked very hard. *Since I boat in
fresh water it's not the end of the world if I use non-stainless
sometimes. *Lowes has the grade 5s in most common american sizes.- Hide quoted text -


- Show quoted text -


Alternator bolts breaking? *occasionally I can see that but
consistantly? Somethings up. What's the application? Motorola? or
delco?, and where does the bolt break?- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -


Custom brackets to mount the alternator on the lower side below #1
cylinder. Two much sideways pull on a couple long bolts :-(

mark September 9th 08 12:22 AM

Mercrusier starter mounting bolt problem
 
Does anyone have a link to example pictures or catalog of the "L
shaped starter bracket" referred to earlier by billgran (Bill
Grannis)?

I have a 1999 Sylvan 21’ bow-rider with a 5.7L Mercruiser which I
purchased used last year. I have had numerous problems with the
starter failing to engage properly with the flywheel, have replaced
starter motor 3 times, replaced the flywheel, had 2 different licensed
Mercruiser mechanics charge me over 2K in repair bills and they both
threw their hands up and stated they don’t know what is causing it to
fail continually.

I read these messages which got me thinking about the possibility of
the starter shifting / flexing away from the flywheel. I jammed a
wooden wedge between the starter housing and a longitudinal rib on the
boat frame and I have not had a problem since. I am cautiously
optimistic this is the cause of my problems and would like to locate a
bracket to fix the starter robustly to the engine block and prevent
shifting.

If anyone has pictures or a link to a site showing this type of
bracket, I would really appreciate it. I would prefer to buy a bracket
off the shelf if possible or I could have one made up. Example
pictures would be really useful in that case.

Thanks,

Mark

"Billgran" wrote:
"Larry W" wrote in message
...
Just a heads-up to anyone replacing a starter in an I/O

Mercrusier.


I replaced one in a 3.0 about a month ago and it was the

first starter
that came with new mounting bolts.

Customer called Sunday with a complaint that the starter was

making a
funny noise. Turns out the long mounting bolt had

failed/sheared off (see
link below). There was nothing unusual about the install and

I know I
didn't over tighten it.



Quite a few years back, MercCruiser, Volvo, and OMC had
starter bolt
breakage problems with the 3.0L motor due to vibration the
first year GM
changed to the small-diameter permanent-magnet starter
housing. Each company
sent out service bulletins about, and incorporated into the
following years
line-up, an L-shaped bracket from the back of the new starter
to the engine
block. The bracket kept the starter from wobbling when the
motor was idling,
thus keeping the bolts intact without breaking.

See your dealer for the bracket and hardware as I'm guessing
that it was
probably not installed and tightened like it should have been.
One bolt on
the back of the correct starter has a threaded stud for the
bracket,
lockwasher, and nut. There is a threaded hole in the engine
block for a
bolt to fasten the other end of the bracket.

Bill Grannis
service manager


--
Posted at author's request, using moderated http://www.BoatingForumz.com interface
Thread archive: http://www.BoatingForumz.com/Mercrus...pict99801.html

Tim September 9th 08 03:36 AM

Mercrusier starter mounting bolt problem
 
On Sep 8, 6:22*pm, mark wrote:
Does anyone have a link to example pictures or catalog of the "L
shaped starter bracket" referred to earlier by billgran (Bill
Grannis)?

I have a 1999 Sylvan 21’ bow-rider with a 5.7L Mercruiser which I
purchased used last year. I have had numerous problems with the
starter failing to engage properly with the flywheel, have replaced
starter motor 3 times, replaced the flywheel, had 2 different licensed
Mercruiser mechanics charge me over 2K in repair bills and they both
threw their hands up and stated they don’t know what is causing it to
fail continually.

I read these messages which got me thinking about the possibility of
the starter shifting / flexing away from the flywheel. I jammed a
wooden wedge between the starter housing and a longitudinal rib on the
boat frame and I have not had a problem since. I am cautiously
optimistic this is the cause of my problems and would like to locate a
bracket to fix the starter robustly to the engine block and prevent
shifting.

If anyone has pictures or a link to a site showing this type of
bracket, I would really appreciate it. I would prefer to buy a bracket
off the shelf if possible or I could have one made up. Example
pictures would be really useful in that case.

Thanks,

Mark


Mark , If your starter is the full sized model (10MT delco) then send
me your address and I'll mail you one. I have some just laying around.
one is yours for the asking.

It's the same bracket as off a 350/400/454 chevy truck from about 1976
up to about 2000.

Tschnautz at g mail dot com


JR North September 10th 08 12:54 AM

Mercrusier starter mounting bolt problem
 
The bracket shape depends on the starter. Do you hare the Delco direct
drive unit-(5" dia motor, big/heavy) or the newer,smaller planetary
drive starter. If big Delco, I have a bracket for you.
JR


mark wrote:
Does anyone have a link to example pictures or catalog of the "L
shaped starter bracket" referred to earlier by billgran (Bill
Grannis)?

I have a 1999 Sylvan 21’ bow-rider with a 5.7L Mercruiser which I
purchased used last year. I have had numerous problems with the
starter failing to engage properly with the flywheel, have replaced
starter motor 3 times, replaced the flywheel, had 2 different licensed
Mercruiser mechanics charge me over 2K in repair bills and they both
threw their hands up and stated they don’t know what is causing it to
fail continually.

I read these messages which got me thinking about the possibility of
the starter shifting / flexing away from the flywheel. I jammed a
wooden wedge between the starter housing and a longitudinal rib on the
boat frame and I have not had a problem since. I am cautiously
optimistic this is the cause of my problems and would like to locate a
bracket to fix the starter robustly to the engine block and prevent
shifting.

If anyone has pictures or a link to a site showing this type of
bracket, I would really appreciate it. I would prefer to buy a bracket
off the shelf if possible or I could have one made up. Example
pictures would be really useful in that case.

Thanks,

Mark

"Billgran" wrote:
"Larry W" wrote in message
...
Just a heads-up to anyone replacing a starter in an I/O

Mercrusier.


I replaced one in a 3.0 about a month ago and it was the

first starter
that came with new mounting bolts.

Customer called Sunday with a complaint that the starter was

making a
funny noise. Turns out the long mounting bolt had

failed/sheared off (see
link below). There was nothing unusual about the install and

I know I
didn't over tighten it.



Quite a few years back, MercCruiser, Volvo, and OMC had
starter bolt
breakage problems with the 3.0L motor due to vibration the
first year GM
changed to the small-diameter permanent-magnet starter
housing. Each company
sent out service bulletins about, and incorporated into the
following years
line-up, an L-shaped bracket from the back of the new starter
to the engine
block. The bracket kept the starter from wobbling when the
motor was idling,
thus keeping the bolts intact without breaking.

See your dealer for the bracket and hardware as I'm guessing
that it was
probably not installed and tightened like it should have been.
One bolt on
the back of the correct starter has a threaded stud for the
bracket,
lockwasher, and nut. There is a threaded hole in the engine
block for a
bolt to fasten the other end of the bracket.

Bill Grannis
service manager



--
--------------------------------------------------------------
Home Page: http://www.seanet.com/~jasonrnorth


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