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Autopsy Report on Cruis'n Rulz!
Nope. Just top end o/haul. I expect you ask because I said 'hone the
cylinders'? I use a ball-type hone to break the glaze only. Not to actually try to straighten and refinish the bore. The glaze-break hone in-situ reseats the rings, provides additional texture for oil retention on the cylinder wall. JR On Fri, 25 Jul 2008 19:49:26 -0400, "jamesgangnc" wrote: So you're removing the block as well? "JR North" wrote in message ... My machinist is going to go through the heads. He's great. I will hone the cylinders also while the heads are off. Since I had to pull the FWC and P/S-Alt package to remove the left head, I yanked the water pump also for replacement, and am going to pull the balancer and timing cover. The cover is pretty rusty, so refinish there and new front seal. A lot of the fasteners on the engine were not SS, and very corroded, so a comprehensive replacement of all the steel fasteners also. I figure this scenario is fortuitous; a couple more years and most of those fasteners would have just snapped off. JR wrote: On Jul 25, 11:21 am, JR North wrote: The result of the failed right bank manifold, allowing sea water to run in the exhaust port into the cylinder. That's what seized the valve also. Only 2 cylinders show rust on the right bank, none on the left. JR That makes sense. So what's the plan? -- -------------------------------------------------------------- Home Page: http://www.seanet.com/~jasonrnorth HOME PAGE: http://www.seanet.com/~jasonrnorth -------------------------------------------------- |
Autopsy Report on Cruis'n Rulz!
On Jul 25, 10:57*pm, JR North wrote:
Nope. Just top end o/haul. I expect you ask because I said 'hone the cylinders'? I use a ball-type hone to break the glaze only. Not to actually try to straighten and refinish the bore. The glaze-break hone in-situ reseats the rings, provides additional texture for oil retention on the cylinder wall. JR On Fri, 25 Jul 2008 19:49:26 -0400, "jamesgangnc" wrote: So you're removing the block as well? "JR North" wrote in message ... My machinist is going to go through the heads. He's great. I will hone the cylinders also while the heads are off. Since I had to pull the FWC and P/S-Alt package to remove the left head, I yanked the water pump also for replacement, and am going to pull the balancer and timing cover. The cover is pretty rusty, so refinish there and new front seal. A lot of the fasteners on the engine were not SS, and very corroded, so a comprehensive replacement of all the steel fasteners also. I figure this scenario is fortuitous; a couple more years and most of those fasteners would have just snapped off. JR wrote: On Jul 25, 11:21 am, JR North wrote: The result of the failed right bank manifold, allowing sea water to run in the exhaust port into the cylinder. That's what seized the valve also. Only 2 cylinders show rust on the right bank, none on the left. JR That makes sense. *So what's the plan? -- -------------------------------------------------------------- * * * *Home Page:http://www.seanet.com/~jasonrnorth HOME PAGE:http://www.seanet.com/~jasonrnorth --------------------------------------------------- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Not sure I'd be comfortable with that. Never heard of anyone homing a cylinder with the piston still in. Honing is primarily to create a surface for new rings to break in against. You are not replacing the rings and you do not have compression problems. Honing also produces a great deal of metal dust that is very difficult to remove if the piston is in the way. A lot of it is going to get trapped in the gap between the piston and the cylinder walls. If you want to hone the cylinders you need to remove the block and the pistons and also replace the rings. |
Autopsy Report on Cruis'n Rulz!
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Autopsy Report on Cruis'n Rulz!
On Jul 28, 12:53*pm, Vic Smith
wrote: On Mon, 28 Jul 2008 09:15:29 -0700 (PDT), wrote: Not sure I'd be comfortable with that. *Never heard of anyone homing a cylinder with the piston still in. *Honing is primarily to create a surface for new rings to break in against. *You are not replacing the rings and you do not have compression problems. *Honing also produces a great deal of metal dust that is very difficult to remove if the piston is in the way. *A lot of it is going to get trapped in the gap between the piston and the cylinder walls. *If you want to hone the cylinders you need to remove the block and the pistons and also replace the rings. The last bottom end I did (352) also needed ridge reaming, but it had a lot more time (miles) on it. *That leaves substantial shavings. I didn't notice metal from doing the crosshatching, but the hone leaves grit, which is no better. A good blasting with compressed air around the gap should blow it out. --Vic Sorry, I'm still thinking that honing a cylinder with the piston in is not a good idea. |
Autopsy Report on Cruis'n Rulz!
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Autopsy Report on Cruis'n Rulz!
OK Jamesgangnc-you switched to Gmail which I filter out entirely.
Honing in-situ is something I've done dozens of times, with 100% success.. I tuck an oiled string around the piston gap, which prevents debris from getting down the gap into the #1 ring gland. Also, a thourogh wipe with a solvent rag until clean on the bore. Note you can only do this with a Flex Hone (ball type). JR On Fri, 25 Jul 2008 19:57:11 -0700, JR North wrote: Nope. Just top end o/haul. I expect you ask because I said 'hone the cylinders'? I use a ball-type hone to break the glaze only. Not to actually try to straighten and refinish the bore. The glaze-break hone in-situ reseats the rings, provides additional texture for oil retention on the cylinder wall. JR On Fri, 25 Jul 2008 19:49:26 -0400, "jamesgangnc" wrote: So you're removing the block as well? "JR North" wrote in message ... My machinist is going to go through the heads. He's great. I will hone the cylinders also while the heads are off. Since I had to pull the FWC and P/S-Alt package to remove the left head, I yanked the water pump also for replacement, and am going to pull the balancer and timing cover. The cover is pretty rusty, so refinish there and new front seal. A lot of the fasteners on the engine were not SS, and very corroded, so a comprehensive replacement of all the steel fasteners also. I figure this scenario is fortuitous; a couple more years and most of those fasteners would have just snapped off. JR wrote: On Jul 25, 11:21 am, JR North wrote: The result of the failed right bank manifold, allowing sea water to run in the exhaust port into the cylinder. That's what seized the valve also. Only 2 cylinders show rust on the right bank, none on the left. JR That makes sense. So what's the plan? -- -------------------------------------------------------------- Home Page: http://www.seanet.com/~jasonrnorth HOME PAGE: http://www.seanet.com/~jasonrnorth -------------------------------------------------- HOME PAGE: http://www.seanet.com/~jasonrnorth -------------------------------------------------- |
Autopsy Report on Cruis'n Rulz!
On Jul 28, 10:27*pm, JR North wrote:
OK Jamesgangnc-you switched to Gmail which I filter out entirely. Honing in-situ is something I've done dozens of times, with 100% success.. I tuck an oiled string around the piston gap, which prevents debris from getting down the gap into the #1 ring gland. Also, a thourogh wipe with a solvent rag until clean on the bore. Note you can only do this with a Flex Hone (ball type). JR On Fri, 25 Jul 2008 19:57:11 -0700, JR North wrote: Nope. Just top end o/haul. I expect you ask because I said 'hone the cylinders'? I use a ball-type hone to break the glaze only. Not to actually try to straighten and refinish the bore. The glaze-break hone in-situ reseats the rings, provides additional texture for oil retention on the cylinder wall. JR On Fri, 25 Jul 2008 19:49:26 -0400, "jamesgangnc" wrote: So you're removing the block as well? "JR North" wrote in message ... My machinist is going to go through the heads. He's great. I will hone the cylinders also while the heads are off. Since I had to pull the FWC and P/S-Alt package to remove the left head, I yanked the water pump also for replacement, and am going to pull the balancer and timing cover. The cover is pretty rusty, so refinish there and new front seal. A lot of the fasteners on the engine were not SS, and very corroded, so a comprehensive replacement of all the steel fasteners also. I figure this scenario is fortuitous; a couple more years and most of those fasteners would have just snapped off. JR wrote: On Jul 25, 11:21 am, JR North wrote: The result of the failed right bank manifold, allowing sea water to run in the exhaust port into the cylinder. That's what seized the valve also. Only 2 cylinders show rust on the right bank, none on the left.. JR That makes sense. *So what's the plan? -- -------------------------------------------------------------- * * * *Home Page:http://www.seanet.com/~jasonrnorth HOME PAGE: http://www.seanet.com/~jasonrnorth -------------------------------------------------- HOME PAGE:http://www.seanet.com/~jasonrnorth --------------------------------------------------- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - I use gmail too, so I switched over to AOL acct, for this thread. I see what you're doing and although it might be the most aproved method, it's still good. Especially if pulling the block and total dismantlement is prohibitive. i think you're on the right track. (now back to g-mail) ?: |
Autopsy Report on Cruis'n Rulz!
Be that as it may, I worked for 6 years in fleet shop servicing over 2000
vehicles and no one ever honed a cylinder with the pistons still in. Nor did I ever hear of anyone doing it at any dealerships or other shops. "JR North" wrote in message ... OK Jamesgangnc-you switched to Gmail which I filter out entirely. Honing in-situ is something I've done dozens of times, with 100% success.. I tuck an oiled string around the piston gap, which prevents debris from getting down the gap into the #1 ring gland. Also, a thourogh wipe with a solvent rag until clean on the bore. Note you can only do this with a Flex Hone (ball type). JR On Fri, 25 Jul 2008 19:57:11 -0700, JR North wrote: Nope. Just top end o/haul. I expect you ask because I said 'hone the cylinders'? I use a ball-type hone to break the glaze only. Not to actually try to straighten and refinish the bore. The glaze-break hone in-situ reseats the rings, provides additional texture for oil retention on the cylinder wall. JR On Fri, 25 Jul 2008 19:49:26 -0400, "jamesgangnc" wrote: So you're removing the block as well? "JR North" wrote in message ... My machinist is going to go through the heads. He's great. I will hone the cylinders also while the heads are off. Since I had to pull the FWC and P/S-Alt package to remove the left head, I yanked the water pump also for replacement, and am going to pull the balancer and timing cover. The cover is pretty rusty, so refinish there and new front seal. A lot of the fasteners on the engine were not SS, and very corroded, so a comprehensive replacement of all the steel fasteners also. I figure this scenario is fortuitous; a couple more years and most of those fasteners would have just snapped off. JR wrote: On Jul 25, 11:21 am, JR North wrote: The result of the failed right bank manifold, allowing sea water to run in the exhaust port into the cylinder. That's what seized the valve also. Only 2 cylinders show rust on the right bank, none on the left. JR That makes sense. So what's the plan? -- -------------------------------------------------------------- Home Page: http://www.seanet.com/~jasonrnorth HOME PAGE: http://www.seanet.com/~jasonrnorth -------------------------------------------------- HOME PAGE: http://www.seanet.com/~jasonrnorth -------------------------------------------------- |
Autopsy Report on Cruis'n Rulz!
On Jul 29, 9:38*am, "jamesgangnc" wrote:
Be that as it may, I worked for 6 years in fleet shop servicing over 2000 vehicles and no one ever honed a cylinder with the pistons still in. *Nor did I ever hear of anyone doing it at any dealerships or other shops. "JR North" wrote in message ... OK Jamesgangnc-you switched to Gmail which I filter out entirely. Honing in-situ is something I've done dozens of times, with 100% success.. I tuck an oiled string around the piston gap, which prevents debris from getting down the gap into the #1 ring gland. Also, a thourogh wipe with a solvent rag until clean on the bore. Note you can only do this with a Flex Hone (ball type). JR On Fri, 25 Jul 2008 19:57:11 -0700, JR North wrote: Nope. Just top end o/haul. I expect you ask because I said 'hone the cylinders'? I use a ball-type hone to break the glaze only. Not to actually try to straighten and refinish the bore. The glaze-break hone in-situ reseats the rings, provides additional texture for oil retention on the cylinder wall. JR On Fri, 25 Jul 2008 19:49:26 -0400, "jamesgangnc" wrote: So you're removing the block as well? "JR North" wrote in message ... My machinist is going to go through the heads. He's great. I will hone the cylinders also while the heads are off. Since I had to pull the FWC and P/S-Alt package to remove the left head, I yanked the water pump also for replacement, and am going to pull the balancer and timing cover. The cover is pretty rusty, so refinish there and new front seal. A lot of the fasteners on the engine were not SS, and very corroded, so a comprehensive replacement of all the steel fasteners also. I figure this scenario is fortuitous; a couple more years and most of those fasteners would have just snapped off. JR wrote: On Jul 25, 11:21 am, JR North wrote: The result of the failed right bank manifold, allowing sea water to run in the exhaust port into the cylinder. That's what seized the valve also. Only 2 cylinders show rust on the right bank, none on the left. |
Autopsy Report on Cruis'n Rulz!
On Jul 29, 9:03*am, wrote:
On Jul 29, 9:38*am, "jamesgangnc" wrote: Be that as it may, I worked for 6 years in fleet shop servicing over 2000 vehicles and no one ever honed a cylinder with the pistons still in. *Nor did I ever hear of anyone doing it at any dealerships or other shops. "JR North" wrote in message .. . OK Jamesgangnc-you switched to Gmail which I filter out entirely. Honing in-situ is something I've done dozens of times, with 100% success.. I tuck an oiled string around the piston gap, which prevents debris from getting down the gap into the #1 ring gland. Also, a thourogh wipe with a solvent rag until clean on the bore. Note you can only do this with a Flex Hone (ball type). JR On Fri, 25 Jul 2008 19:57:11 -0700, JR North wrote: Nope. Just top end o/haul. I expect you ask because I said 'hone the cylinders'? I use a ball-type hone to break the glaze only. Not to actually try to straighten and refinish the bore. The glaze-break hone in-situ reseats the rings, provides additional texture for oil retention on the cylinder wall. JR On Fri, 25 Jul 2008 19:49:26 -0400, "jamesgangnc" wrote: So you're removing the block as well? "JR North" wrote in message ... My machinist is going to go through the heads. He's great. I will hone the cylinders also while the heads are off. Since I had to pull the FWC and P/S-Alt package to remove the left head, I yanked the water pump also for replacement, and am going to pull the balancer and timing cover. The cover is pretty rusty, so refinish there and new front seal. A lot of the fasteners on the engine were not SS, and very corroded, so a comprehensive replacement of all the steel fasteners also. I figure this scenario is fortuitous; a couple more years and most of those fasteners would have just snapped off. JR wrote: On Jul 25, 11:21 am, JR North wrote: The result of the failed right bank manifold, allowing sea water to run in the exhaust port into the cylinder. That's what seized the valve also. Only 2 cylinders show rust on the right bank, none on the left. JR That makes sense. *So what's the plan? -- -------------------------------------------------------------- * * * *Home Page:http://www.seanet.com/~jasonrnorth HOME PAGE: http://www.seanet.com/~jasonrnorth -------------------------------------------------- HOME PAGE: http://www.seanet.com/~jasonrnorth --------------------------------------------------- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - I know I wouldn't!- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - I know I wouldnt' either, but he opted not to pull the block so I'd say he's got a good secondary idea, here. Even so, he's already stated that this is a high hr engine and doesn't expect to get a great amount of life out of it. But granted that honing the cylinders arn't going to really provide much to compensate the worn rings. Actually the honing might promote premature compression failure and/or accelerated oil usage. Again guys, it's not our engines and if he has some success, them more power to him.... |
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