Home |
Search |
Today's Posts |
|
#2
![]()
posted to rec.boats
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
On Tue, 15 Jul 2008 15:08:54 GMT, Reno wrote:
wrote in news:53d0f7fc-0d5d-4c48-aee8- : I agree with all of James' points about rot. I also got a free 16 foot boat - every single piece of wood was rotted; transom, stringers, floor, seat bases, etc. The transom did have a solid inner liner that didn't sound bad when tapped but when I cut the inner liner off I dug out most of the wood with bare hands, it was that rotten. snip Nice post. Thanks. If I ever think about taking on an old boat, I'll be sure to read this first. --Vic |
#3
![]()
posted to rec.boats
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
On Tue, 15 Jul 2008 15:08:54 GMT, Reno wrote:
wrote in news:53d0f7fc-0d5d-4c48-aee8- : I agree with all of James' points about rot. I also got a free 16 foot boat - every single piece of wood was rotted; transom, stringers, floor, seat bases, etc. The transom did have a solid inner liner that didn't sound bad when tapped but when I cut the inner liner off I dug out most of the wood with bare hands, it was that rotten. I took the deck and floor off so I could work better and took all sorts of cutters and grinders to the inside. Basically all I got for free was an unreinforced hull and deck. It took 3 summers of weekends and evenings. I learned a lot about epoxy. Mostly I used West Systems but I did try one other brand that I found on the Internet. The critical thing is weight - I weighed everything I took off or added so the net weight gain was 50 pounds. If you are not careful to make everything you add as light as possible you will exceed the design weight of the boat and end up with a poor handling and likely unsafe boat. When the hull is stripped of all reinforcing it is very flexible and you need to make a huge effort to support it perfectly so it ends up straight. I designed a set of 6 adjustable supports made from 2 x 6 bases, 8-inch PVC sewer pipe and threaded rods with large washers and nuts. I used a waterlevel to level the boat left/right and front/back. After that I re-checked the levels and found a need for slight adjustments a few times. As you replace the transom, stringers and floor the hull gets stiffer and sits differently on the supports. I also did some filling and repairs of the outside of the hull and had to have a system to rotate it upside down. Use only high build paints - I got some low build car type paint for the deck which looks great but it shows the slightest imperfections. The high build paint on the hull looks perfect because it fills the small places. Low build paint is much more difficult to use - it makes a huge amount of mist that almost requires a downdraft paint booth. High build paint doesn't mist much and needs only a dust-free garage; I lined my garage with plastic sheets for the painting. I used a hull paint that can't be left in the water more than a few days so I have to trailer use the boat. If you want to leave it at a dock you have to use an epoxy paint which costs a few hundred dollars more and is much more difficult to use. I had to make a lot of compromises between cost and difficulty - sometimes I went with better materials and more difficult methods but I soon tired of that and got quicker and cheaper as time went on. Don't use and epoxy that is less than 3 to 1 ratio - 5 to 1 is better because it is more water proof. I had to rebuild the steering and shifting equipment. My uncle is a retired industrial mechanic so he was able to make new spacers to align the internal pieces that are unavailable and I only bought a few pieces. I spent around $850 on epoxy and fiberglass cloth, $200 on paint and $500 on miscellaneous parts. Now I have a very nice solid boat that I know everything about. Compared to the price of new boats it was a great deal money wise but you have to consider the "lost" three summers. I did it as a hobby with my Dad and uncle helping so it was a very nice time of socializing. So I have a nice boat and an even better relationship with my Dad and uncle. My Dad is a 'go go go' type of guy and without him driving the progress of the project it would have taken 4 or 5 summers, maybe never got done. If you would consider the investment in time as work rather than a nice hobby then you will be very unhappy with what seems like a never ending list of problems and expenses. Then you should take the advice of the poster who suggested sell it and get something you can use right away. I got a lot of help from rec.boats.building and by googling. Great information! Thanks a lot. |
Reply |
Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
Display Modes | |
|
|
![]() |
||||
Thread | Forum | |||
FREE Advertising - Sell you boat fast ------> Boat Agent <-------- | UK Paddle | |||
FREE Advertising - Sell you boat fast ------> Boat Agent <-------- | UK Power Boats | |||
Free Vehicle Advertising On Boat Agent UK ---> A 100% FREE SERVICE <--- | UK Paddle | |||
Free Vehicle Advertising On Boat Agent UK ---> A 100% FREE SERVICE <--- | UK Power Boats | |||
free boat? | Boat Building |