"Tim" wrote in message
...
On Jun 19, 9:02 pm, fzbuilder wrote:
Hey all, I have a issue with my starter cranking the engine so slow
that it will not start, then drains the battery. This happens with any
battery I put in it. I even had a Snap-on starter boost charger on it
and still not enough cranking. I ended up wiring 2 batteries in seires
for 24volts and it would crank fast (but still not start), then kill
the batteries after a few times. I am wondering if I have a dead short
somewhere and if anyone has any ideas before I start replacing stuff.
I just replaced the coil and after doing some tests per the Penta Book
and now I have spark, but I am worried to put the 24volts back on and
damage anything. I orginaly put the 24volts on from some advise and
now I hear that can mess up your system. Help Please!!

Before you blow up something because of cheap advice go through a
common sense check list.

If you had a dead short, something would be getting really hot, really
quick!

If your'e geting spark thats fine. OK, now how about fuel? is the
carburator geting gas? Pull the spark arrester air cleaner off, and
manually work the throttle at the carburator as see if you're getting
a fuel spray in the carb. All the spark in the world wont start the
engine if you don't have fuel.

look the situation over. Did it start fine, then all of a sudden
develop a problem, or has it been gradually going down?

clean connections! battery terminals even check the negative cable
where it hooks to the engine block. If you crank the starter for a
moment, then feel your battery connections and find a hot one, you've
found the problem.

If anything else pull the starter and have a reputable mechanic or a
local auto electric shop test it out. Jim could be right about worn or
possible dry bushings.

Have you ever had the bildge full of water to the point where the
starter motor got wet? If so, it's probably corroded inside. If its a
direct drive delco starter it's not an expensive process to install
brushs and bushings in it..

But again, check ALL the engine electric connections first.

And leave the 24v stuff alone. There's no need for it.

Another thought on the wiring. The battery neg. goes to a stud on the back
of one of the heads. The starters housing is at ground and relies on a good
electrical connection to the flywheel housing. If that housing is aluminum
you could have a bad ground do to corrosion, even if the bolts are tight. Do
a voltage drop test on the ground from the battery to the starter, and then
from the battery to the flywheel housing. Both while the engine is cranking.