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Mercruiser Carb Conversion
Does anyone know if their is a throttle body conversion kit available
for my old Merc 170? Thank you Jim Rojas |
Mercruiser Carb Conversion
I've never heard of one. I would expect any carb to fi conversion to cost 4
digits. There is not a big market for them due to the cost. While fi is better than a carb, it is not a lot better. Why do you want to convert? A brand new carb will cost a fraction of a conversion. "Jim Rojas" wrote in message news:LJFOj.2595$Ux4.830@trnddc07... Does anyone know if their is a throttle body conversion kit available for my old Merc 170? Thank you Jim Rojas |
Mercruiser Carb Conversion
"jamesgangnc" wrote
A brand new carb will cost a fraction of a conversion. A rebuild kit would be a fraction of that fraction, even. If I'm not mistaken, this is the same Merc where the owner added an electric water pump when he couldn't get the stock pump to work. I'm beginning to detect a pattern. |
Mercruiser Carb Conversion
Yeah...that I am an idiot... :)
The electric pump works great! I had to install a relay to activate the pump. The relay is hooked up in parallel to the electric choke circuit, so it will turn on/off when you turn the key. Last year I replaced the stator with a standard alternator conversion kit for $400. I figured if they have conversion kits for the points, fuel pump, and loads of other items, why not ask? Ok. I will just buy a carb rebuild kit and give it a shot. Thanks Jim Rojas Ernest Scribbler wrote: "jamesgangnc" wrote A brand new carb will cost a fraction of a conversion. A rebuild kit would be a fraction of that fraction, even. If I'm not mistaken, this is the same Merc where the owner added an electric water pump when he couldn't get the stock pump to work. I'm beginning to detect a pattern. |
Mercruiser Carb Conversion
"Jim Rojas" wrote in message news:pBJOj.1591$pn4.872@trnddc03... Yeah...that I am an idiot... :) The electric pump works great! I had to install a relay to activate the pump. The relay is hooked up in parallel to the electric choke circuit, so it will turn on/off when you turn the key. Not such a good idea. You need to buy a oil pressure switch and power the fuel pump from it. You also need to pull power from the starter solenoid S terminal to run the pump while cranking the engine. I hope your electric fuel pump is of the Coast Guard approved variety. |
Mercruiser Carb Conversion
I didn't replace the fuel pump, and don't have any plans to.
The choke circuit only activates the 30A relay. The pump itself is on a separate 20 amp fuse on the battery selector switch. I installed a temporary garden hose 2 way splitter on both ends of the water pump. On the in side, one hose goes to the raw water inlet, the other goes to a short hose to allow quick connection for flushing in my driveway. On out side, one hose goes to the heat exchanger, and the other goes to a 1/4 hose reducer that acts like a weep hole on an outboard or jetski. This allows a visual indication at all times that the electric pump is working. Jim Rojas Jim Rojas Jim wrote: "Jim Rojas" wrote in message news:pBJOj.1591$pn4.872@trnddc03... Yeah...that I am an idiot... :) The electric pump works great! I had to install a relay to activate the pump. The relay is hooked up in parallel to the electric choke circuit, so it will turn on/off when you turn the key. Not such a good idea. You need to buy a oil pressure switch and power the fuel pump from it. You also need to pull power from the starter solenoid S terminal to run the pump while cranking the engine. I hope your electric fuel pump is of the Coast Guard approved variety. |
Mercruiser Carb Conversion
Sorry. Carry on. When you said electric pump, I was thinking fuel pump. The
only caution I can think of is that the pump you are using might jam or clog If it wasn't designed to pump dirty water. "Jim Rojas" wrote in message news:nISOj.1538$Ks1.1380@trnddc01... I didn't replace the fuel pump, and don't have any plans to. The choke circuit only activates the 30A relay. The pump itself is on a separate 20 amp fuse on the battery selector switch. I installed a temporary garden hose 2 way splitter on both ends of the water pump. On the in side, one hose goes to the raw water inlet, the other goes to a short hose to allow quick connection for flushing in my driveway. On out side, one hose goes to the heat exchanger, and the other goes to a 1/4 hose reducer that acts like a weep hole on an outboard or jetski. This allows a visual indication at all times that the electric pump is working. Jim Rojas Jim Rojas Jim wrote: "Jim Rojas" wrote in message news:pBJOj.1591$pn4.872@trnddc03... Yeah...that I am an idiot... :) The electric pump works great! I had to install a relay to activate the pump. The relay is hooked up in parallel to the electric choke circuit, so it will turn on/off when you turn the key. Not such a good idea. You need to buy a oil pressure switch and power the fuel pump from it. You also need to pull power from the starter solenoid S terminal to run the pump while cranking the engine. I hope your electric fuel pump is of the Coast Guard approved variety. |
Mercruiser Carb Conversion
It's a standard utility pump I pick up at Harbor Freight. It was only
$40. I can always replace it with a continous duty model at a later time. It is cheap enough to carry a spare, or replace it every year. Heck, an impeller kit is $40 anyway. This setup would only take several minutes to change out if the pump fails. Jim Rojas Jim wrote: Sorry. Carry on. When you said electric pump, I was thinking fuel pump. The only caution I can think of is that the pump you are using might jam or clog If it wasn't designed to pump dirty water. "Jim Rojas" wrote in message news:nISOj.1538$Ks1.1380@trnddc01... I didn't replace the fuel pump, and don't have any plans to. The choke circuit only activates the 30A relay. The pump itself is on a separate 20 amp fuse on the battery selector switch. I installed a temporary garden hose 2 way splitter on both ends of the water pump. On the in side, one hose goes to the raw water inlet, the other goes to a short hose to allow quick connection for flushing in my driveway. On out side, one hose goes to the heat exchanger, and the other goes to a 1/4 hose reducer that acts like a weep hole on an outboard or jetski. This allows a visual indication at all times that the electric pump is working. Jim Rojas Jim Rojas Jim wrote: "Jim Rojas" wrote in message news:pBJOj.1591$pn4.872@trnddc03... Yeah...that I am an idiot... :) The electric pump works great! I had to install a relay to activate the pump. The relay is hooked up in parallel to the electric choke circuit, so it will turn on/off when you turn the key. Not such a good idea. You need to buy a oil pressure switch and power the fuel pump from it. You also need to pull power from the starter solenoid S terminal to run the pump while cranking the engine. I hope your electric fuel pump is of the Coast Guard approved variety. |
Mercruiser Carb Conversion
"Jim Rojas" wrote
Yeah...that I am an idiot... :) Sorry if that's what I implied, not really what I meant to say. |
Mercruiser Carb Conversion
No offense taken. I am just glad to see people in this newsgroup willing
to help. Jim Rojas Ernest Scribbler wrote: "Jim Rojas" wrote Yeah...that I am an idiot... :) Sorry if that's what I implied, not really what I meant to say. |
Mercruiser Carb Conversion
"Jim Rojas" wrote in message news:WX0Pj.1566$Ks1.1408@trnddc01... It's a standard utility pump I pick up at Harbor Freight. It was only $40. I can always replace it with a continous duty model at a later time. It is cheap enough to carry a spare, or replace it every year. Heck, an impeller kit is $40 anyway. This setup would only take several minutes to change out if the pump fails. Jim Rojas Jim wrote: Sorry. Carry on. When you said electric pump, I was thinking fuel pump. The only caution I can think of is that the pump you are using might jam or clog If it wasn't designed to pump dirty water. "Jim Rojas" wrote in message news:nISOj.1538$Ks1.1380@trnddc01... I didn't replace the fuel pump, and don't have any plans to. The choke circuit only activates the 30A relay. The pump itself is on a separate 20 amp fuse on the battery selector switch. I installed a temporary garden hose 2 way splitter on both ends of the water pump. On the in side, one hose goes to the raw water inlet, the other goes to a short hose to allow quick connection for flushing in my driveway. On out side, one hose goes to the heat exchanger, and the other goes to a 1/4 hose reducer that acts like a weep hole on an outboard or jetski. This allows a visual indication at all times that the electric pump is working. Jim Rojas Jim Rojas Jim wrote: "Jim Rojas" wrote in message news:pBJOj.1591$pn4.872@trnddc03... Yeah...that I am an idiot... :) The electric pump works great! I had to install a relay to activate the pump. The relay is hooked up in parallel to the electric choke circuit, so it will turn on/off when you turn the key. Not such a good idea. You need to buy a oil pressure switch and power the fuel pump from it. You also need to pull power from the starter solenoid S terminal to run the pump while cranking the engine. I hope your electric fuel pump is of the Coast Guard approved variety. And it's certified ignition protected by the Coast Guard for use in enclosed engine compartments , right? |
Mercruiser Carb Conversion
On Apr 21, 9:16*am, Jim Rojas wrote:
No offense taken. I am just glad to see people in this newsgroup willing to help. Jim Rojas Ernest Scribbler wrote: "Jim Rojas" wrote Yeah...that I am an idiot... :) Sorry if that's what I implied, not really what I meant to say.- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Throttle body is kind fo neat , that is on a car, but look at all you'd have to do for a boat. High pressure fuel pump, computer timing etc, etc. It HAS been done, but it's not worth the cost of a change over..... BTW, i know exactly the the alternator kit you used. and with the exception of making the brackets. The alternator is only about $55-65.00 |
Mercruiser Carb Conversion
On Apr 21, 9:56*am, "Jim" wrote:
"Jim Rojas" wrote in message news:WX0Pj.1566$Ks1.1408@trnddc01... It's a standard utility pump I pick up at Harbor Freight. It was only $40. |
Mercruiser Carb Conversion
The hardest part was getting the harmonic balancer removed. I was able
to get a puller & inserter on loan from Autozone. The old stator came off pretty easy. The magnets however were all busted up, and I had to carefully look around for loose pieces. When it was all setup and done, the kit was well worth it. It came with the brackets, bolts, washers, belt, and wiring harness, along with a step by step full illustration. Jim Rojas Tim wrote: On Apr 21, 9:16 am, Jim Rojas wrote: No offense taken. I am just glad to see people in this newsgroup willing to help. Jim Rojas Ernest Scribbler wrote: "Jim Rojas" wrote Yeah...that I am an idiot... :) Sorry if that's what I implied, not really what I meant to say.- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Throttle body is kind fo neat , that is on a car, but look at all you'd have to do for a boat. High pressure fuel pump, computer timing etc, etc. It HAS been done, but it's not worth the cost of a change over..... BTW, i know exactly the the alternator kit you used. and with the exception of making the brackets. The alternator is only about $55-65.00 |
Mercruiser Carb Conversion
"Tim" wrote in message ... On Apr 21, 9:56 am, "Jim" wrote: "Jim Rojas" wrote in message news:WX0Pj.1566$Ks1.1408@trnddc01... It's a standard utility pump I pick up at Harbor Freight. It was only $40. I can always replace it with a continous duty model at a later time. It is cheap enough to carry a spare, or replace it every year. Heck, an impeller kit is $40 anyway. This setup would only take several minutes to change out if the pump fails. Jim Rojas Jim wrote: Sorry. Carry on. When you said electric pump, I was thinking fuel pump. The only caution I can think of is that the pump you are using might jam or clog If it wasn't designed to pump dirty water. "Jim Rojas" wrote in message news:nISOj.1538$Ks1.1380@trnddc01... I didn't replace the fuel pump, and don't have any plans to. The choke circuit only activates the 30A relay. The pump itself is on a separate 20 amp fuse on the battery selector switch. I installed a temporary garden hose 2 way splitter on both ends of the water pump. On the in side, one hose goes to the raw water inlet, the other goes to a short hose to allow quick connection for flushing in my driveway. On out side, one hose goes to the heat exchanger, and the other goes to a 1/4 hose reducer that acts like a weep hole on an outboard or jetski. This allows a visual indication at all times that the electric pump is working. Jim Rojas Jim Rojas Jim wrote: "Jim Rojas" wrote in message news:pBJOj.1591$pn4.872@trnddc03... Yeah...that I am an idiot... :) The electric pump works great! I had to install a relay to activate the pump. The relay is hooked up in parallel to the electric choke circuit, so it will turn on/off when you turn the key. Not such a good idea. You need to buy a oil pressure switch and power the fuel pump from it. You also need to pull power from the starter solenoid S terminal to run the pump while cranking the engine. I hope your electric fuel pump is of the Coast Guard approved variety. And it's certified ignition protected by the Coast Guard for use in enclosed engine compartments , right?- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - I can't say, but I doubt if it is. But then again. a lot of stuff on boats isn't CC "aproved" from the factory. I would have perhaps done things differently, but if he's satisfied with how it works then I suppose that's fine. After all, we're talking a runabout boat here. I have to disagree with you here Tim. Runabouts can explode too. It could happen in a crowded marina or a gas dock, or a raft up party etc. Innocent people could be killed or injured because of an improperly maintained runabout. |
Mercruiser Carb Conversion
On Apr 21, 12:09*pm, "Jim" wrote:
"Tim" wrote in message ... On Apr 21, 9:56 am, "Jim" wrote: "Jim Rojas" wrote in message news:WX0Pj.1566$Ks1.1408@trnddc01... It's a standard utility pump I pick up at Harbor Freight. It was only $40. I can always replace it with a continous duty model at a later time. It is cheap enough to carry a spare, or replace it every year. Heck, an impeller kit is $40 anyway. This setup would only take several minutes to change out if the pump fails. Jim Rojas Jim wrote: Sorry. Carry on. When you said electric pump, I was thinking fuel pump. The only caution I can think of is that the pump you are using might jam or clog If it wasn't designed to pump dirty water. "Jim Rojas" wrote in message news:nISOj.1538$Ks1.1380@trnddc01... I didn't replace the fuel pump, and don't have any plans to. The choke circuit only activates the 30A relay. The pump itself is on a separate 20 amp fuse on the battery selector switch. I installed a temporary garden hose 2 way splitter on both ends of the water pump. On the in side, one hose goes to the raw water inlet, the other goes to a short hose to allow quick connection for flushing in my driveway. On out side, one hose goes to the heat exchanger, and the other goes to a 1/4 hose reducer that acts like a weep hole on an outboard or jetski. This allows a visual indication at all times that the electric pump is working. Jim Rojas Jim Rojas Jim wrote: "Jim Rojas" wrote in message news:pBJOj.1591$pn4.872@trnddc03... Yeah...that I am an idiot... :) The electric pump works great! I had to install a relay to activate the pump. The relay is hooked up in parallel to the electric choke circuit, so it will turn on/off when you turn the key. Not such a good idea. You need to buy a oil pressure switch and power the fuel pump from it. You also need to pull power from the starter solenoid S terminal to run the pump while cranking the engine. I hope your electric fuel pump is of the Coast Guard approved variety. And it's certified ignition protected by the Coast Guard for use in enclosed engine compartments , right?- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - I can't say, but I doubt if it is. But then again. a lot of stuff on boats isn't CC "aproved" from the factory. I would have perhaps done things differently, but if he's satisfied with how it works then I suppose that's fine. After all, we're talking a runabout boat here. I have to disagree with you here Tim. Runabouts can explode too. It could happen in a crowded marina or a gas dock, or a raft up party etc. Innocent people could be killed or injured because of an improperly maintained runabout.- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Oh, no doubt, Jim. and I'm not really discounting the idea that it's a good thing. But it's amazing how many boats you'll find that have google, jerry rigged things onboard.Again. I'm not saying it's a good thing.... But if a person uses some common sense and has a decent knowledge about spark/flame arresting, and can adapt to such, then there shouldn't be a problem. |
Mercruiser Carb Conversion
"Tim" wrote in message ... On Apr 21, 12:09 pm, "Jim" wrote: "Tim" wrote in message ... On Apr 21, 9:56 am, "Jim" wrote: "Jim Rojas" wrote in message news:WX0Pj.1566$Ks1.1408@trnddc01... It's a standard utility pump I pick up at Harbor Freight. It was only $40. I can always replace it with a continous duty model at a later time. It is cheap enough to carry a spare, or replace it every year. Heck, an impeller kit is $40 anyway. This setup would only take several minutes to change out if the pump fails. Jim Rojas Jim wrote: Sorry. Carry on. When you said electric pump, I was thinking fuel pump. The only caution I can think of is that the pump you are using might jam or clog If it wasn't designed to pump dirty water. "Jim Rojas" wrote in message news:nISOj.1538$Ks1.1380@trnddc01... I didn't replace the fuel pump, and don't have any plans to. The choke circuit only activates the 30A relay. The pump itself is on a separate 20 amp fuse on the battery selector switch. I installed a temporary garden hose 2 way splitter on both ends of the water pump. On the in side, one hose goes to the raw water inlet, the other goes to a short hose to allow quick connection for flushing in my driveway. On out side, one hose goes to the heat exchanger, and the other goes to a 1/4 hose reducer that acts like a weep hole on an outboard or jetski. This allows a visual indication at all times that the electric pump is working. Jim Rojas Jim Rojas Jim wrote: "Jim Rojas" wrote in message news:pBJOj.1591$pn4.872@trnddc03... Yeah...that I am an idiot... :) The electric pump works great! I had to install a relay to activate the pump. The relay is hooked up in parallel to the electric choke circuit, so it will turn on/off when you turn the key. Not such a good idea. You need to buy a oil pressure switch and power the fuel pump from it. You also need to pull power from the starter solenoid S terminal to run the pump while cranking the engine. I hope your electric fuel pump is of the Coast Guard approved variety. And it's certified ignition protected by the Coast Guard for use in enclosed engine compartments , right?- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - I can't say, but I doubt if it is. But then again. a lot of stuff on boats isn't CC "aproved" from the factory. I would have perhaps done things differently, but if he's satisfied with how it works then I suppose that's fine. After all, we're talking a runabout boat here. I have to disagree with you here Tim. Runabouts can explode too. It could happen in a crowded marina or a gas dock, or a raft up party etc. Innocent people could be killed or injured because of an improperly maintained runabout.- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Oh, no doubt, Jim. and I'm not really discounting the idea that it's a good thing. But it's amazing how many boats you'll find that have google, jerry rigged things onboard.Again. I'm not saying it's a good thing.... But if a person uses some common sense and has a decent knowledge about spark/flame arresting, and can adapt to such, then there shouldn't be a problem. We can only hope ;- |
Mercruiser Carb Conversion
On Apr 21, 12:13*pm, Jim Rojas wrote:
The hardest part was getting the harmonic balancer removed. I was able to get a puller & inserter on loan from Autozone. The old stator came off pretty easy. The magnets however were all busted up, and I had to carefully look around for loose pieces. When it was all setup and done, the kit was well worth it. It came with the brackets, bolts, washers, belt, and wiring harness, along with a step by step full illustration. Jim Rojas Tim wrote: On Apr 21, 9:16 am, Jim Rojas wrote: No offense taken. I am just glad to see people in this newsgroup willing to help. Jim Rojas Ernest Scribbler wrote: "Jim Rojas" wrote Yeah...that I am an idiot... :) Sorry if that's what I implied, not really what I meant to say.- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Throttle body is kind fo neat , that is on a car, but look at all you'd have to do for a boat. High pressure fuel pump, computer timing etc, etc. It HAS been done, but it's not worth the cost of a change over..... BTW, i know exactly the the alternator kit you used. and with the exception of making the brackets. The alternator is only about $55-65.00- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - So you used an electric water pump to replace the raw water pump in the outdrive? What prompted that? |
Mercruiser Carb Conversion
|
Mercruiser Carb Conversion
On Apr 21, 1:33*pm, Jim Rojas wrote:
wrote: On Apr 21, 12:13 pm, Jim Rojas wrote: The hardest part was getting the harmonic balancer removed. I was able to get a puller & inserter on loan from Autozone. The old stator came off pretty easy. The magnets however were all busted up, and I had to carefully look around for loose pieces. When it was all setup and done, the kit was well worth it. It came with the brackets, bolts, washers, belt, and wiring harness, along with a step by step full illustration. Jim Rojas Tim wrote: On Apr 21, 9:16 am, Jim Rojas wrote: No offense taken. I am just glad to see people in this newsgroup willing to help. Jim Rojas Ernest Scribbler wrote: "Jim Rojas" wrote Yeah...that I am an idiot... :) Sorry if that's what I implied, not really what I meant to say.- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Throttle body is kind fo neat , that is on a car, but look at all you'd have to do for a boat. High pressure fuel pump, computer timing etc, etc. It HAS been done, but it's not worth the cost of a change over..... BTW, i know exactly the the alternator kit you used. and with the exception of making the brackets. The alternator is only about $55-65.00- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - So you used an electric water pump to replace the raw water pump in the outdrive? *What prompted that? Laziness for the most part. It is a pain in the ass to drain the lower unit, unbolt it, remove it, replace the parts. I tried doing it myself once. I followed the step by step directions in the Clymer manual, but I screwed up and now the boat doesn't go into reverse. I ended up hiring a mobile marine mechanic to fix it right. Now that I have the electric raw water pump setup, All I have to worry about is replacing just the lower unit gear oil every season. An electric pump take me 5 minutes to replace, and it costs the same as an impeller kit. Jim Rojas- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Ingenuity is good. But one thing I must question. I know the kit you bought to repair your charging system. It' is expensive, but it does work, fit and is professionally made. and you gave $400.+ bucks for it and thought it was money well spent, which in your case probably would have been, because trying to mount an external alt. on that engine would be a PITA. i can understand that. But wouldn't repairing the water flow system follow under the same notion? Pay the money and have it fixed right? |
Mercruiser Carb Conversion
I live in Florida, and I don't have alot of money. Most marinas and
mobile guys charge $150 + parts for the impeller. And you do have to replace them every year. Jim Rojas Tim wrote: On Apr 21, 1:33 pm, Jim Rojas wrote: wrote: On Apr 21, 12:13 pm, Jim Rojas wrote: The hardest part was getting the harmonic balancer removed. I was able to get a puller & inserter on loan from Autozone. The old stator came off pretty easy. The magnets however were all busted up, and I had to carefully look around for loose pieces. When it was all setup and done, the kit was well worth it. It came with the brackets, bolts, washers, belt, and wiring harness, along with a step by step full illustration. Jim Rojas Tim wrote: On Apr 21, 9:16 am, Jim Rojas wrote: No offense taken. I am just glad to see people in this newsgroup willing to help. Jim Rojas Ernest Scribbler wrote: "Jim Rojas" wrote Yeah...that I am an idiot... :) Sorry if that's what I implied, not really what I meant to say.- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Throttle body is kind fo neat , that is on a car, but look at all you'd have to do for a boat. High pressure fuel pump, computer timing etc, etc. It HAS been done, but it's not worth the cost of a change over..... BTW, i know exactly the the alternator kit you used. and with the exception of making the brackets. The alternator is only about $55-65.00- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - So you used an electric water pump to replace the raw water pump in the outdrive? What prompted that? Laziness for the most part. It is a pain in the ass to drain the lower unit, unbolt it, remove it, replace the parts. I tried doing it myself once. I followed the step by step directions in the Clymer manual, but I screwed up and now the boat doesn't go into reverse. I ended up hiring a mobile marine mechanic to fix it right. Now that I have the electric raw water pump setup, All I have to worry about is replacing just the lower unit gear oil every season. An electric pump take me 5 minutes to replace, and it costs the same as an impeller kit. Jim Rojas- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Ingenuity is good. But one thing I must question. I know the kit you bought to repair your charging system. It' is expensive, but it does work, fit and is professionally made. and you gave $400.+ bucks for it and thought it was money well spent, which in your case probably would have been, because trying to mount an external alt. on that engine would be a PITA. i can understand that. But wouldn't repairing the water flow system follow under the same notion? Pay the money and have it fixed right? |
Mercruiser Carb Conversion
Actually you can probably get 4 or 5 years out of an impeller if you keep
the lower unit out of the sand. Sand eats them up pretty quick. Also make sure you NEVER run it without a water supply. I occasionally check mine and have replaced it a couple times. Truth is I've never had a "bad" one. Even the ones that were 4 or 5 years old still looked fine. I replaced them anyway. My boat is a 1990 and it's had 4 impellers and none of the old ones had anything significantly wrong with them. Merc just advises every year to cover their own asses. If you couldn't get it into reverse that probably means you did not have the shift shaft lined up properly. It's a splined shaft and is not keyed. It is a pain to hold the prop engaged while getting the lower half on to make sure the shifter is in the right spot. But there are a number of reasons to be competent at removing the outdrive like occasionally greasing the u-joints. I usually take mine off every other winter, check the impeller, grease the u-joints, and replace the gear lube. On the odd winters and occasionally during the summer I "sample" the lube at the drain to make sure it still looks good and doesn't have any water in it. If you really don't like the pump in the outdrive you can get a engine driven mechanical one. That's what the volvoes and bravoes have. There are a lot of boat scrap yards down there where you could probably dig up the brackets. Sounds like you might not have an electric pump that is up to the prolonged cycle you are running it at. That will be a real pain if it craps out on you. A mechanical pump is less likely to completely fail like an electric motor. Nothin personal but I'm going with "bad idea" on your electric water pump. "Jim Rojas" wrote in message news:FR8Pj.7450$aq4.6493@trnddc02... I live in Florida, and I don't have alot of money. Most marinas and mobile guys charge $150 + parts for the impeller. And you do have to replace them every year. Jim Rojas Tim wrote: On Apr 21, 1:33 pm, Jim Rojas wrote: wrote: On Apr 21, 12:13 pm, Jim Rojas wrote: The hardest part was getting the harmonic balancer removed. I was able to get a puller & inserter on loan from Autozone. The old stator came off pretty easy. The magnets however were all busted up, and I had to carefully look around for loose pieces. When it was all setup and done, the kit was well worth it. It came with the brackets, bolts, washers, belt, and wiring harness, along with a step by step full illustration. Jim Rojas Tim wrote: On Apr 21, 9:16 am, Jim Rojas wrote: No offense taken. I am just glad to see people in this newsgroup willing to help. Jim Rojas Ernest Scribbler wrote: "Jim Rojas" wrote Yeah...that I am an idiot... :) Sorry if that's what I implied, not really what I meant to say.- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Throttle body is kind fo neat , that is on a car, but look at all you'd have to do for a boat. High pressure fuel pump, computer timing etc, etc. It HAS been done, but it's not worth the cost of a change over..... BTW, i know exactly the the alternator kit you used. and with the exception of making the brackets. The alternator is only about $55-65.00- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - So you used an electric water pump to replace the raw water pump in the outdrive? What prompted that? Laziness for the most part. It is a pain in the ass to drain the lower unit, unbolt it, remove it, replace the parts. I tried doing it myself once. I followed the step by step directions in the Clymer manual, but I screwed up and now the boat doesn't go into reverse. I ended up hiring a mobile marine mechanic to fix it right. Now that I have the electric raw water pump setup, All I have to worry about is replacing just the lower unit gear oil every season. An electric pump take me 5 minutes to replace, and it costs the same as an impeller kit. Jim Rojas- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Ingenuity is good. But one thing I must question. I know the kit you bought to repair your charging system. It' is expensive, but it does work, fit and is professionally made. and you gave $400.+ bucks for it and thought it was money well spent, which in your case probably would have been, because trying to mount an external alt. on that engine would be a PITA. i can understand that. But wouldn't repairing the water flow system follow under the same notion? Pay the money and have it fixed right? |
Mercruiser Carb Conversion
Like this one?
http://www.go2marine.com/product.do?no=116154F Jim Rojas jamesgangnc wrote: Actually you can probably get 4 or 5 years out of an impeller if you keep the lower unit out of the sand. Sand eats them up pretty quick. Also make sure you NEVER run it without a water supply. I occasionally check mine and have replaced it a couple times. Truth is I've never had a "bad" one. Even the ones that were 4 or 5 years old still looked fine. I replaced them anyway. My boat is a 1990 and it's had 4 impellers and none of the old ones had anything significantly wrong with them. Merc just advises every year to cover their own asses. If you couldn't get it into reverse that probably means you did not have the shift shaft lined up properly. It's a splined shaft and is not keyed. It is a pain to hold the prop engaged while getting the lower half on to make sure the shifter is in the right spot. But there are a number of reasons to be competent at removing the outdrive like occasionally greasing the u-joints. I usually take mine off every other winter, check the impeller, grease the u-joints, and replace the gear lube. On the odd winters and occasionally during the summer I "sample" the lube at the drain to make sure it still looks good and doesn't have any water in it. If you really don't like the pump in the outdrive you can get a engine driven mechanical one. That's what the volvoes and bravoes have. There are a lot of boat scrap yards down there where you could probably dig up the brackets. Sounds like you might not have an electric pump that is up to the prolonged cycle you are running it at. That will be a real pain if it craps out on you. A mechanical pump is less likely to completely fail like an electric motor. Nothin personal but I'm going with "bad idea" on your electric water pump. "Jim Rojas" wrote in message news:FR8Pj.7450$aq4.6493@trnddc02... I live in Florida, and I don't have alot of money. Most marinas and mobile guys charge $150 + parts for the impeller. And you do have to replace them every year. Jim Rojas Tim wrote: On Apr 21, 1:33 pm, Jim Rojas wrote: wrote: On Apr 21, 12:13 pm, Jim Rojas wrote: The hardest part was getting the harmonic balancer removed. I was able to get a puller & inserter on loan from Autozone. The old stator came off pretty easy. The magnets however were all busted up, and I had to carefully look around for loose pieces. When it was all setup and done, the kit was well worth it. It came with the brackets, bolts, washers, belt, and wiring harness, along with a step by step full illustration. Jim Rojas Tim wrote: On Apr 21, 9:16 am, Jim Rojas wrote: No offense taken. I am just glad to see people in this newsgroup willing to help. Jim Rojas Ernest Scribbler wrote: "Jim Rojas" wrote Yeah...that I am an idiot... :) Sorry if that's what I implied, not really what I meant to say.- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Throttle body is kind fo neat , that is on a car, but look at all you'd have to do for a boat. High pressure fuel pump, computer timing etc, etc. It HAS been done, but it's not worth the cost of a change over..... BTW, i know exactly the the alternator kit you used. and with the exception of making the brackets. The alternator is only about $55-65.00- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - So you used an electric water pump to replace the raw water pump in the outdrive? What prompted that? Laziness for the most part. It is a pain in the ass to drain the lower unit, unbolt it, remove it, replace the parts. I tried doing it myself once. I followed the step by step directions in the Clymer manual, but I screwed up and now the boat doesn't go into reverse. I ended up hiring a mobile marine mechanic to fix it right. Now that I have the electric raw water pump setup, All I have to worry about is replacing just the lower unit gear oil every season. An electric pump take me 5 minutes to replace, and it costs the same as an impeller kit. Jim Rojas- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Ingenuity is good. But one thing I must question. I know the kit you bought to repair your charging system. It' is expensive, but it does work, fit and is professionally made. and you gave $400.+ bucks for it and thought it was money well spent, which in your case probably would have been, because trying to mount an external alt. on that engine would be a PITA. i can understand that. But wouldn't repairing the water flow system follow under the same notion? Pay the money and have it fixed right? |
Mercruiser Carb Conversion
Yep, that's one of them. There is a bunch of them and probably any number
of them would work if you have the appropriate brackets. Imho in Florida I'd be looking for some junk boat yards as a source of brackets and possibly a pump too. "Jim Rojas" wrote in message news:TCaPj.8271$pH4.3081@trnddc06... Like this one? http://www.go2marine.com/product.do?no=116154F Jim Rojas jamesgangnc wrote: Actually you can probably get 4 or 5 years out of an impeller if you keep the lower unit out of the sand. Sand eats them up pretty quick. Also make sure you NEVER run it without a water supply. I occasionally check mine and have replaced it a couple times. Truth is I've never had a "bad" one. Even the ones that were 4 or 5 years old still looked fine. I replaced them anyway. My boat is a 1990 and it's had 4 impellers and none of the old ones had anything significantly wrong with them. Merc just advises every year to cover their own asses. If you couldn't get it into reverse that probably means you did not have the shift shaft lined up properly. It's a splined shaft and is not keyed. It is a pain to hold the prop engaged while getting the lower half on to make sure the shifter is in the right spot. But there are a number of reasons to be competent at removing the outdrive like occasionally greasing the u-joints. I usually take mine off every other winter, check the impeller, grease the u-joints, and replace the gear lube. On the odd winters and occasionally during the summer I "sample" the lube at the drain to make sure it still looks good and doesn't have any water in it. If you really don't like the pump in the outdrive you can get a engine driven mechanical one. That's what the volvoes and bravoes have. There are a lot of boat scrap yards down there where you could probably dig up the brackets. Sounds like you might not have an electric pump that is up to the prolonged cycle you are running it at. That will be a real pain if it craps out on you. A mechanical pump is less likely to completely fail like an electric motor. Nothin personal but I'm going with "bad idea" on your electric water pump. "Jim Rojas" wrote in message news:FR8Pj.7450$aq4.6493@trnddc02... I live in Florida, and I don't have alot of money. Most marinas and mobile guys charge $150 + parts for the impeller. And you do have to replace them every year. Jim Rojas Tim wrote: On Apr 21, 1:33 pm, Jim Rojas wrote: wrote: On Apr 21, 12:13 pm, Jim Rojas wrote: The hardest part was getting the harmonic balancer removed. I was able to get a puller & inserter on loan from Autozone. The old stator came off pretty easy. The magnets however were all busted up, and I had to carefully look around for loose pieces. When it was all setup and done, the kit was well worth it. It came with the brackets, bolts, washers, belt, and wiring harness, along with a step by step full illustration. Jim Rojas Tim wrote: On Apr 21, 9:16 am, Jim Rojas wrote: No offense taken. I am just glad to see people in this newsgroup willing to help. Jim Rojas Ernest Scribbler wrote: "Jim Rojas" wrote Yeah...that I am an idiot... :) Sorry if that's what I implied, not really what I meant to say.- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Throttle body is kind fo neat , that is on a car, but look at all you'd have to do for a boat. High pressure fuel pump, computer timing etc, etc. It HAS been done, but it's not worth the cost of a change over..... BTW, i know exactly the the alternator kit you used. and with the exception of making the brackets. The alternator is only about $55-65.00- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - So you used an electric water pump to replace the raw water pump in the outdrive? What prompted that? Laziness for the most part. It is a pain in the ass to drain the lower unit, unbolt it, remove it, replace the parts. I tried doing it myself once. I followed the step by step directions in the Clymer manual, but I screwed up and now the boat doesn't go into reverse. I ended up hiring a mobile marine mechanic to fix it right. Now that I have the electric raw water pump setup, All I have to worry about is replacing just the lower unit gear oil every season. An electric pump take me 5 minutes to replace, and it costs the same as an impeller kit. Jim Rojas- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Ingenuity is good. But one thing I must question. I know the kit you bought to repair your charging system. It' is expensive, but it does work, fit and is professionally made. and you gave $400.+ bucks for it and thought it was money well spent, which in your case probably would have been, because trying to mount an external alt. on that engine would be a PITA. i can understand that. But wouldn't repairing the water flow system follow under the same notion? Pay the money and have it fixed right? |
Mercruiser Carb Conversion
We do have a rather large boat salvage yard here. In the past, when I
tried to purchase parts, their pricing is often the same as buying it new. Jim Rojas jamesgangnc wrote: Yep, that's one of them. There is a bunch of them and probably any number of them would work if you have the appropriate brackets. Imho in Florida I'd be looking for some junk boat yards as a source of brackets and possibly a pump too. "Jim Rojas" wrote in message news:TCaPj.8271$pH4.3081@trnddc06... Like this one? http://www.go2marine.com/product.do?no=116154F Jim Rojas jamesgangnc wrote: Actually you can probably get 4 or 5 years out of an impeller if you keep the lower unit out of the sand. Sand eats them up pretty quick. Also make sure you NEVER run it without a water supply. I occasionally check mine and have replaced it a couple times. Truth is I've never had a "bad" one. Even the ones that were 4 or 5 years old still looked fine. I replaced them anyway. My boat is a 1990 and it's had 4 impellers and none of the old ones had anything significantly wrong with them. Merc just advises every year to cover their own asses. If you couldn't get it into reverse that probably means you did not have the shift shaft lined up properly. It's a splined shaft and is not keyed. It is a pain to hold the prop engaged while getting the lower half on to make sure the shifter is in the right spot. But there are a number of reasons to be competent at removing the outdrive like occasionally greasing the u-joints. I usually take mine off every other winter, check the impeller, grease the u-joints, and replace the gear lube. On the odd winters and occasionally during the summer I "sample" the lube at the drain to make sure it still looks good and doesn't have any water in it. If you really don't like the pump in the outdrive you can get a engine driven mechanical one. That's what the volvoes and bravoes have. There are a lot of boat scrap yards down there where you could probably dig up the brackets. Sounds like you might not have an electric pump that is up to the prolonged cycle you are running it at. That will be a real pain if it craps out on you. A mechanical pump is less likely to completely fail like an electric motor. Nothin personal but I'm going with "bad idea" on your electric water pump. "Jim Rojas" wrote in message news:FR8Pj.7450$aq4.6493@trnddc02... I live in Florida, and I don't have alot of money. Most marinas and mobile guys charge $150 + parts for the impeller. And you do have to replace them every year. Jim Rojas Tim wrote: On Apr 21, 1:33 pm, Jim Rojas wrote: wrote: On Apr 21, 12:13 pm, Jim Rojas wrote: The hardest part was getting the harmonic balancer removed. I was able to get a puller & inserter on loan from Autozone. The old stator came off pretty easy. The magnets however were all busted up, and I had to carefully look around for loose pieces. When it was all setup and done, the kit was well worth it. It came with the brackets, bolts, washers, belt, and wiring harness, along with a step by step full illustration. Jim Rojas Tim wrote: On Apr 21, 9:16 am, Jim Rojas wrote: No offense taken. I am just glad to see people in this newsgroup willing to help. Jim Rojas Ernest Scribbler wrote: "Jim Rojas" wrote Yeah...that I am an idiot... :) Sorry if that's what I implied, not really what I meant to say.- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Throttle body is kind fo neat , that is on a car, but look at all you'd have to do for a boat. High pressure fuel pump, computer timing etc, etc. It HAS been done, but it's not worth the cost of a change over..... BTW, i know exactly the the alternator kit you used. and with the exception of making the brackets. The alternator is only about $55-65.00- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - So you used an electric water pump to replace the raw water pump in the outdrive? What prompted that? Laziness for the most part. It is a pain in the ass to drain the lower unit, unbolt it, remove it, replace the parts. I tried doing it myself once. I followed the step by step directions in the Clymer manual, but I screwed up and now the boat doesn't go into reverse. I ended up hiring a mobile marine mechanic to fix it right. Now that I have the electric raw water pump setup, All I have to worry about is replacing just the lower unit gear oil every season. An electric pump take me 5 minutes to replace, and it costs the same as an impeller kit. Jim Rojas- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Ingenuity is good. But one thing I must question. I know the kit you bought to repair your charging system. It' is expensive, but it does work, fit and is professionally made. and you gave $400.+ bucks for it and thought it was money well spent, which in your case probably would have been, because trying to mount an external alt. on that engine would be a PITA. i can understand that. But wouldn't repairing the water flow system follow under the same notion? Pay the money and have it fixed right? |
Mercruiser Carb Conversion
Try negotiating a bit maybe, who knows. Personally I've considered the idea
as well but decided the pump in the leg was not quite "evil" enough to justify it. But I can't argue it is a pain. Keep in mind the original merc outdrive really is the bottom half of an outboard and that's where they all are on outboards. Another option would be to fabricate the brackets. Lowes has some metal stock and it's usually just a matter of holding the pump and belt where you want to mount it, then cutting, bending, and drilling. Sometimes a few spacers, also available from lowes. Helps to have a torch for the bending though. My front pulley already has an unused belt location that would be a raw water pump in some installations. My other problem is that I already moved the steerig pump and alternator down to where the raw water pump is usually mounted when I got rid of the recirculating pump. Typically the engine mounted raw water pumps are below the crank pulley to help prime them easier. http://home.earthlink.net/~jamesgangnc/ebay/boateng.jpg "Jim Rojas" wrote in message news:LwkPj.11084$Zk5.1793@trnddc05... We do have a rather large boat salvage yard here. In the past, when I tried to purchase parts, their pricing is often the same as buying it new. Jim Rojas jamesgangnc wrote: Yep, that's one of them. There is a bunch of them and probably any number of them would work if you have the appropriate brackets. Imho in Florida I'd be looking for some junk boat yards as a source of brackets and possibly a pump too. "Jim Rojas" wrote in message news:TCaPj.8271$pH4.3081@trnddc06... Like this one? http://www.go2marine.com/product.do?no=116154F Jim Rojas jamesgangnc wrote: Actually you can probably get 4 or 5 years out of an impeller if you keep the lower unit out of the sand. Sand eats them up pretty quick. Also make sure you NEVER run it without a water supply. I occasionally check mine and have replaced it a couple times. Truth is I've never had a "bad" one. Even the ones that were 4 or 5 years old still looked fine. I replaced them anyway. My boat is a 1990 and it's had 4 impellers and none of the old ones had anything significantly wrong with them. Merc just advises every year to cover their own asses. If you couldn't get it into reverse that probably means you did not have the shift shaft lined up properly. It's a splined shaft and is not keyed. It is a pain to hold the prop engaged while getting the lower half on to make sure the shifter is in the right spot. But there are a number of reasons to be competent at removing the outdrive like occasionally greasing the u-joints. I usually take mine off every other winter, check the impeller, grease the u-joints, and replace the gear lube. On the odd winters and occasionally during the summer I "sample" the lube at the drain to make sure it still looks good and doesn't have any water in it. If you really don't like the pump in the outdrive you can get a engine driven mechanical one. That's what the volvoes and bravoes have. There are a lot of boat scrap yards down there where you could probably dig up the brackets. Sounds like you might not have an electric pump that is up to the prolonged cycle you are running it at. That will be a real pain if it craps out on you. A mechanical pump is less likely to completely fail like an electric motor. Nothin personal but I'm going with "bad idea" on your electric water pump. "Jim Rojas" wrote in message news:FR8Pj.7450$aq4.6493@trnddc02... I live in Florida, and I don't have alot of money. Most marinas and mobile guys charge $150 + parts for the impeller. And you do have to replace them every year. Jim Rojas Tim wrote: On Apr 21, 1:33 pm, Jim Rojas wrote: wrote: On Apr 21, 12:13 pm, Jim Rojas wrote: The hardest part was getting the harmonic balancer removed. I was able to get a puller & inserter on loan from Autozone. The old stator came off pretty easy. The magnets however were all busted up, and I had to carefully look around for loose pieces. When it was all setup and done, the kit was well worth it. It came with the brackets, bolts, washers, belt, and wiring harness, along with a step by step full illustration. Jim Rojas Tim wrote: On Apr 21, 9:16 am, Jim Rojas wrote: No offense taken. I am just glad to see people in this newsgroup willing to help. Jim Rojas Ernest Scribbler wrote: "Jim Rojas" wrote Yeah...that I am an idiot... :) Sorry if that's what I implied, not really what I meant to say.- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Throttle body is kind fo neat , that is on a car, but look at all you'd have to do for a boat. High pressure fuel pump, computer timing etc, etc. It HAS been done, but it's not worth the cost of a change over..... BTW, i know exactly the the alternator kit you used. and with the exception of making the brackets. The alternator is only about $55-65.00- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - So you used an electric water pump to replace the raw water pump in the outdrive? What prompted that? Laziness for the most part. It is a pain in the ass to drain the lower unit, unbolt it, remove it, replace the parts. I tried doing it myself once. I followed the step by step directions in the Clymer manual, but I screwed up and now the boat doesn't go into reverse. I ended up hiring a mobile marine mechanic to fix it right. Now that I have the electric raw water pump setup, All I have to worry about is replacing just the lower unit gear oil every season. An electric pump take me 5 minutes to replace, and it costs the same as an impeller kit. Jim Rojas- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Ingenuity is good. But one thing I must question. I know the kit you bought to repair your charging system. It' is expensive, but it does work, fit and is professionally made. and you gave $400.+ bucks for it and thought it was money well spent, which in your case probably would have been, because trying to mount an external alt. on that engine would be a PITA. i can understand that. But wouldn't repairing the water flow system follow under the same notion? Pay the money and have it fixed right? |
Mercruiser Carb Conversion
He's already changed the configuration of the front of the engine with the
alternator. That is a common modification. I have never heard of a pulley operated water pump setup for the 170. The Volvo harmonic balancer mounted water pump might work if it fits and isn't interfered with by belts. Too much work, in my opinion. He should learn how to service the outdrive. The setup he has now is destined for failure. "jamesgangnc" wrote in message m... Yep, that's one of them. There is a bunch of them and probably any number of them would work if you have the appropriate brackets. Imho in Florida I'd be looking for some junk boat yards as a source of brackets and possibly a pump too. "Jim Rojas" wrote in message news:TCaPj.8271$pH4.3081@trnddc06... Like this one? http://www.go2marine.com/product.do?no=116154F Jim Rojas jamesgangnc wrote: Actually you can probably get 4 or 5 years out of an impeller if you keep the lower unit out of the sand. Sand eats them up pretty quick. Also make sure you NEVER run it without a water supply. I occasionally check mine and have replaced it a couple times. Truth is I've never had a "bad" one. Even the ones that were 4 or 5 years old still looked fine. I replaced them anyway. My boat is a 1990 and it's had 4 impellers and none of the old ones had anything significantly wrong with them. Merc just advises every year to cover their own asses. If you couldn't get it into reverse that probably means you did not have the shift shaft lined up properly. It's a splined shaft and is not keyed. It is a pain to hold the prop engaged while getting the lower half on to make sure the shifter is in the right spot. But there are a number of reasons to be competent at removing the outdrive like occasionally greasing the u-joints. I usually take mine off every other winter, check the impeller, grease the u-joints, and replace the gear lube. On the odd winters and occasionally during the summer I "sample" the lube at the drain to make sure it still looks good and doesn't have any water in it. If you really don't like the pump in the outdrive you can get a engine driven mechanical one. That's what the volvoes and bravoes have. There are a lot of boat scrap yards down there where you could probably dig up the brackets. Sounds like you might not have an electric pump that is up to the prolonged cycle you are running it at. That will be a real pain if it craps out on you. A mechanical pump is less likely to completely fail like an electric motor. Nothin personal but I'm going with "bad idea" on your electric water pump. "Jim Rojas" wrote in message news:FR8Pj.7450$aq4.6493@trnddc02... I live in Florida, and I don't have alot of money. Most marinas and mobile guys charge $150 + parts for the impeller. And you do have to replace them every year. Jim Rojas Tim wrote: On Apr 21, 1:33 pm, Jim Rojas wrote: wrote: On Apr 21, 12:13 pm, Jim Rojas wrote: The hardest part was getting the harmonic balancer removed. I was able to get a puller & inserter on loan from Autozone. The old stator came off pretty easy. The magnets however were all busted up, and I had to carefully look around for loose pieces. When it was all setup and done, the kit was well worth it. It came with the brackets, bolts, washers, belt, and wiring harness, along with a step by step full illustration. Jim Rojas Tim wrote: On Apr 21, 9:16 am, Jim Rojas wrote: No offense taken. I am just glad to see people in this newsgroup willing to help. Jim Rojas Ernest Scribbler wrote: "Jim Rojas" wrote Yeah...that I am an idiot... :) Sorry if that's what I implied, not really what I meant to say.- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Throttle body is kind fo neat , that is on a car, but look at all you'd have to do for a boat. High pressure fuel pump, computer timing etc, etc. It HAS been done, but it's not worth the cost of a change over..... BTW, i know exactly the the alternator kit you used. and with the exception of making the brackets. The alternator is only about $55-65.00- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - So you used an electric water pump to replace the raw water pump in the outdrive? What prompted that? Laziness for the most part. It is a pain in the ass to drain the lower unit, unbolt it, remove it, replace the parts. I tried doing it myself once. I followed the step by step directions in the Clymer manual, but I screwed up and now the boat doesn't go into reverse. I ended up hiring a mobile marine mechanic to fix it right. Now that I have the electric raw water pump setup, All I have to worry about is replacing just the lower unit gear oil every season. An electric pump take me 5 minutes to replace, and it costs the same as an impeller kit. Jim Rojas- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Ingenuity is good. But one thing I must question. I know the kit you bought to repair your charging system. It' is expensive, but it does work, fit and is professionally made. and you gave $400.+ bucks for it and thought it was money well spent, which in your case probably would have been, because trying to mount an external alt. on that engine would be a PITA. i can understand that. But wouldn't repairing the water flow system follow under the same notion? Pay the money and have it fixed right? |
Mercruiser Carb Conversion
On Apr 22, 9:15*am, "Jim" wrote:
He's already changed the configuration of the front of the engine with the alternator. That is a common modification. I have never heard of a pulley operated water pump setup for the 170. The Volvo harmonic balancer mounted water pump might work if it fits and isn't interfered with by belts. Too much work, in my opinion. He should learn how to service the outdrive. The setup he has now is destined for failure. "jamesgangnc" wrote in message m... Yep, that's one of them. *There is a bunch of them and probably any number of them would work if you have the appropriate brackets. *Imho in Florida I'd be looking for some junk boat yards as a source of brackets and possibly a pump too. "Jim Rojas" wrote in message news:TCaPj.8271$pH4.3081@trnddc06... Like this one? http://www.go2marine.com/product.do?no=116154F Jim Rojas jamesgangnc wrote: Actually you can probably get 4 or 5 years out of an impeller if you keep the lower unit out of the sand. *Sand eats them up pretty quick.. Also make sure you NEVER run it without a water supply. *I occasionally check mine and have replaced it a couple times. *Truth is I've never had a "bad" one. *Even the ones that were 4 or 5 years old still looked fine. I replaced them anyway. *My boat is a 1990 and it's had 4 impellers and none of the old ones had anything significantly wrong with them. *Merc just advises every year to cover their own asses. If you couldn't get it into reverse that probably means you did not have the shift shaft lined up properly. *It's a splined shaft and is not keyed. *It is a pain to hold the prop engaged while getting the lower half on to make sure the shifter is in the right spot. *But there are a number of reasons to be competent at removing the outdrive like occasionally greasing the u-joints. *I usually take mine off every other winter, check the impeller, grease the u-joints, and replace the gear lube. *On the odd winters and occasionally during the summer I "sample" the lube at the drain to make sure it still looks good and doesn't have any water in it. If you really don't like the pump in the outdrive you can get a engine driven mechanical one. *That's what the volvoes and bravoes have. *There are a lot of boat scrap yards down there where you could probably dig up the brackets. *Sounds like you might not have an electric pump that is up to the prolonged cycle you are running it at. *That will be a real pain if it craps out on you. *A mechanical pump is less likely to completely fail like an electric motor. *Nothin personal but I'm going with "bad idea" on your electric water pump. "Jim Rojas" wrote in message news:FR8Pj.7450$aq4.6493@trnddc02... I live in Florida, and I don't have alot of money. Most marinas and mobile guys charge $150 + parts for the impeller. And you do have to replace them every year. Jim Rojas Tim wrote: On Apr 21, 1:33 pm, Jim Rojas wrote: wrote: On Apr 21, 12:13 pm, Jim Rojas wrote: The hardest part was getting the harmonic balancer removed. I was able to get a puller & inserter on loan from Autozone. The old stator came off pretty easy. The magnets however were all busted up, and I had to carefully look around for loose pieces. When it was all setup and done, the kit was well worth it. It came with the brackets, bolts, washers, belt, and wiring harness, along with a step by step full illustration. Jim Rojas Tim wrote: On Apr 21, 9:16 am, Jim Rojas wrote: No offense taken. I am just glad to see people in this newsgroup willing to help. Jim Rojas Ernest Scribbler wrote: "Jim Rojas" wrote Yeah...that I am an idiot... :) Sorry if that's what I implied, not really what I meant to say..- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Throttle body is kind fo neat , that is on a car, but look at all you'd have to do for a boat. High pressure fuel pump, computer timing etc, etc. It HAS been done, but it's not worth the cost of a change over..... BTW, i know exactly the the alternator kit you used. and with the exception of making the brackets. The alternator is only about $55-65.00- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - So you used an electric water pump to replace the raw water pump in the outdrive? *What prompted that? Laziness for the most part. It is a pain in the ass to drain the lower unit, unbolt it, remove it, replace the parts. I tried doing it myself once. I followed the step by step directions in the Clymer manual, but I screwed up and now the boat doesn't go into reverse. I ended up hiring a mobile marine mechanic to fix it right. Now that I have the electric raw water pump setup, All I have to worry about is replacing just the lower unit gear oil every season. An electric pump take me 5 minutes to replace, and it costs the same as an impeller kit. Jim Rojas- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Ingenuity is good. But one thing I must question. I know the kit you bought to repair your charging system. It' is expensive, but it does work, fit and is professionally made. and you gave $400.+ bucks for it and thought it was money well spent, which in your case probably would have been, because trying to mount an external alt. on that engine would be a PITA. i can understand that. But wouldn't repairing the water flow system follow under the same notion? Pay the money and have it fixed right?- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Yea, the electric pump is most likely not a good idea. And I can't argue with you about servicing the outdrive since that's the conclusion I came to myself as well. But the outdrive is just enough of a pain to see how others might decide an engine driven mechanical pump would be better. I don;t know much about the 170 or 470 but most of the harmonic balancers I've worked with do not really have the pulleys built in. They are just bolted to the front and get so stuck that they seem like they are part of the balancer. I'm not saying I would do it but I can see how a guy mught decide to fabricate some brackets and mount a water pump there. I've had a random thought about switching to the cam nose mounted pump myself occasionally. But I'm thinking there ain't a timing cover for the 170 with a pump mount on it :-) |
Mercruiser Carb Conversion
You don't have to have another belt if you can get a pump in line with
another accessory. Then just get a bigger belt. But in all honesty I would simply go back to the outdrive pump. It works fine for hundreds of thousands of installations and really does not need to be replaced every year if you do not abuse it. "Jim Rojas" wrote in message news:WArPj.9620$aq4.2258@trnddc02... One of the optional alternator conversion kits has a pulley that mounts directly onto the Harmonic balancer. A bracket, and a separate belt would be required. Being that I have power steering, there is no room for the pump anywhere on the existing pulley system. Jim Rojas wrote: On Apr 22, 9:15 am, "Jim" wrote: He's already changed the configuration of the front of the engine with the alternator. That is a common modification. I have never heard of a pulley operated water pump setup for the 170. The Volvo harmonic balancer mounted water pump might work if it fits and isn't interfered with by belts. Too much work, in my opinion. He should learn how to service the outdrive. The setup he has now is destined for failure. "jamesgangnc" wrote in message m... Yep, that's one of them. There is a bunch of them and probably any number of them would work if you have the appropriate brackets. Imho in Florida I'd be looking for some junk boat yards as a source of brackets and possibly a pump too. "Jim Rojas" wrote in message news:TCaPj.8271$pH4.3081@trnddc06... Like this one? http://www.go2marine.com/product.do?no=116154F Jim Rojas jamesgangnc wrote: Actually you can probably get 4 or 5 years out of an impeller if you keep the lower unit out of the sand. Sand eats them up pretty quick. Also make sure you NEVER run it without a water supply. I occasionally check mine and have replaced it a couple times. Truth is I've never had a "bad" one. Even the ones that were 4 or 5 years old still looked fine. I replaced them anyway. My boat is a 1990 and it's had 4 impellers and none of the old ones had anything significantly wrong with them. Merc just advises every year to cover their own asses. If you couldn't get it into reverse that probably means you did not have the shift shaft lined up properly. It's a splined shaft and is not keyed. It is a pain to hold the prop engaged while getting the lower half on to make sure the shifter is in the right spot. But there are a number of reasons to be competent at removing the outdrive like occasionally greasing the u-joints. I usually take mine off every other winter, check the impeller, grease the u-joints, and replace the gear lube. On the odd winters and occasionally during the summer I "sample" the lube at the drain to make sure it still looks good and doesn't have any water in it. If you really don't like the pump in the outdrive you can get a engine driven mechanical one. That's what the volvoes and bravoes have. There are a lot of boat scrap yards down there where you could probably dig up the brackets. Sounds like you might not have an electric pump that is up to the prolonged cycle you are running it at. That will be a real pain if it craps out on you. A mechanical pump is less likely to completely fail like an electric motor. Nothin personal but I'm going with "bad idea" on your electric water pump. "Jim Rojas" wrote in message news:FR8Pj.7450$aq4.6493@trnddc02... I live in Florida, and I don't have alot of money. Most marinas and mobile guys charge $150 + parts for the impeller. And you do have to replace them every year. Jim Rojas Tim wrote: On Apr 21, 1:33 pm, Jim Rojas wrote: wrote: On Apr 21, 12:13 pm, Jim Rojas wrote: The hardest part was getting the harmonic balancer removed. I was able to get a puller & inserter on loan from Autozone. The old stator came off pretty easy. The magnets however were all busted up, and I had to carefully look around for loose pieces. When it was all setup and done, the kit was well worth it. It came with the brackets, bolts, washers, belt, and wiring harness, along with a step by step full illustration. Jim Rojas Tim wrote: On Apr 21, 9:16 am, Jim Rojas wrote: No offense taken. I am just glad to see people in this newsgroup willing to help. Jim Rojas Ernest Scribbler wrote: "Jim Rojas" wrote Yeah...that I am an idiot... :) Sorry if that's what I implied, not really what I meant to say.- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Throttle body is kind fo neat , that is on a car, but look at all you'd have to do for a boat. High pressure fuel pump, computer timing etc, etc. It HAS been done, but it's not worth the cost of a change over..... BTW, i know exactly the the alternator kit you used. and with the exception of making the brackets. The alternator is only about $55-65.00- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - So you used an electric water pump to replace the raw water pump in the outdrive? What prompted that? Laziness for the most part. It is a pain in the ass to drain the lower unit, unbolt it, remove it, replace the parts. I tried doing it myself once. I followed the step by step directions in the Clymer manual, but I screwed up and now the boat doesn't go into reverse. I ended up hiring a mobile marine mechanic to fix it right. Now that I have the electric raw water pump setup, All I have to worry about is replacing just the lower unit gear oil every season. An electric pump take me 5 minutes to replace, and it costs the same as an impeller kit. Jim Rojas- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Ingenuity is good. But one thing I must question. I know the kit you bought to repair your charging system. It' is expensive, but it does work, fit and is professionally made. and you gave $400.+ bucks for it and thought it was money well spent, which in your case probably would have been, because trying to mount an external alt. on that engine would be a PITA. i can understand that. But wouldn't repairing the water flow system follow under the same notion? Pay the money and have it fixed right?- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Yea, the electric pump is most likely not a good idea. And I can't argue with you about servicing the outdrive since that's the conclusion I came to myself as well. But the outdrive is just enough of a pain to see how others might decide an engine driven mechanical pump would be better. I don;t know much about the 170 or 470 but most of the harmonic balancers I've worked with do not really have the pulleys built in. They are just bolted to the front and get so stuck that they seem like they are part of the balancer. I'm not saying I would do it but I can see how a guy mught decide to fabricate some brackets and mount a water pump there. I've had a random thought about switching to the cam nose mounted pump myself occasionally. But I'm thinking there ain't a timing cover for the 170 with a pump mount on it :-) |
Mercruiser Carb Conversion
There is no room for it even with a longer belt.
I live is extremely sandy, shallow canals, etc. Kicking up sand cannot be avoided. At best, i can get 2 years out of an impeller. Plus the high heat and humidity here is no help. I am retired, so I am out on the water 8-12 times a month on average. So the life expectancy gets cut short with that much activity on a standard impeller. For now, I'll keep the electric pump. I'll let you know how long it lasts. I can always go back to the impeller like you said, or install the mechanical sea pump in the off season. Jim Rojas jamesgangnc wrote: You don't have to have another belt if you can get a pump in line with another accessory. Then just get a bigger belt. But in all honesty I would simply go back to the outdrive pump. It works fine for hundreds of thousands of installations and really does not need to be replaced every year if you do not abuse it. "Jim Rojas" wrote in message news:WArPj.9620$aq4.2258@trnddc02... One of the optional alternator conversion kits has a pulley that mounts directly onto the Harmonic balancer. A bracket, and a separate belt would be required. Being that I have power steering, there is no room for the pump anywhere on the existing pulley system. Jim Rojas wrote: On Apr 22, 9:15 am, "Jim" wrote: He's already changed the configuration of the front of the engine with the alternator. That is a common modification. I have never heard of a pulley operated water pump setup for the 170. The Volvo harmonic balancer mounted water pump might work if it fits and isn't interfered with by belts. Too much work, in my opinion. He should learn how to service the outdrive. The setup he has now is destined for failure. "jamesgangnc" wrote in message m... Yep, that's one of them. There is a bunch of them and probably any number of them would work if you have the appropriate brackets. Imho in Florida I'd be looking for some junk boat yards as a source of brackets and possibly a pump too. "Jim Rojas" wrote in message news:TCaPj.8271$pH4.3081@trnddc06... Like this one? http://www.go2marine.com/product.do?no=116154F Jim Rojas jamesgangnc wrote: Actually you can probably get 4 or 5 years out of an impeller if you keep the lower unit out of the sand. Sand eats them up pretty quick. Also make sure you NEVER run it without a water supply. I occasionally check mine and have replaced it a couple times. Truth is I've never had a "bad" one. Even the ones that were 4 or 5 years old still looked fine. I replaced them anyway. My boat is a 1990 and it's had 4 impellers and none of the old ones had anything significantly wrong with them. Merc just advises every year to cover their own asses. If you couldn't get it into reverse that probably means you did not have the shift shaft lined up properly. It's a splined shaft and is not keyed. It is a pain to hold the prop engaged while getting the lower half on to make sure the shifter is in the right spot. But there are a number of reasons to be competent at removing the outdrive like occasionally greasing the u-joints. I usually take mine off every other winter, check the impeller, grease the u-joints, and replace the gear lube. On the odd winters and occasionally during the summer I "sample" the lube at the drain to make sure it still looks good and doesn't have any water in it. If you really don't like the pump in the outdrive you can get a engine driven mechanical one. That's what the volvoes and bravoes have. There are a lot of boat scrap yards down there where you could probably dig up the brackets. Sounds like you might not have an electric pump that is up to the prolonged cycle you are running it at. That will be a real pain if it craps out on you. A mechanical pump is less likely to completely fail like an electric motor. Nothin personal but I'm going with "bad idea" on your electric water pump. "Jim Rojas" wrote in message news:FR8Pj.7450$aq4.6493@trnddc02... I live in Florida, and I don't have alot of money. Most marinas and mobile guys charge $150 + parts for the impeller. And you do have to replace them every year. Jim Rojas Tim wrote: On Apr 21, 1:33 pm, Jim Rojas wrote: wrote: On Apr 21, 12:13 pm, Jim Rojas wrote: The hardest part was getting the harmonic balancer removed. I was able to get a puller & inserter on loan from Autozone. The old stator came off pretty easy. The magnets however were all busted up, and I had to carefully look around for loose pieces. When it was all setup and done, the kit was well worth it. It came with the brackets, bolts, washers, belt, and wiring harness, along with a step by step full illustration. Jim Rojas Tim wrote: On Apr 21, 9:16 am, Jim Rojas wrote: No offense taken. I am just glad to see people in this newsgroup willing to help. Jim Rojas Ernest Scribbler wrote: "Jim Rojas" wrote Yeah...that I am an idiot... :) Sorry if that's what I implied, not really what I meant to say.- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Throttle body is kind fo neat , that is on a car, but look at all you'd have to do for a boat. High pressure fuel pump, computer timing etc, etc. It HAS been done, but it's not worth the cost of a change over..... BTW, i know exactly the the alternator kit you used. and with the exception of making the brackets. The alternator is only about $55-65.00- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - So you used an electric water pump to replace the raw water pump in the outdrive? What prompted that? Laziness for the most part. It is a pain in the ass to drain the lower unit, unbolt it, remove it, replace the parts. I tried doing it myself once. I followed the step by step directions in the Clymer manual, but I screwed up and now the boat doesn't go into reverse. I ended up hiring a mobile marine mechanic to fix it right. Now that I have the electric raw water pump setup, All I have to worry about is replacing just the lower unit gear oil every season. An electric pump take me 5 minutes to replace, and it costs the same as an impeller kit. Jim Rojas- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Ingenuity is good. But one thing I must question. I know the kit you bought to repair your charging system. It' is expensive, but it does work, fit and is professionally made. and you gave $400.+ bucks for it and thought it was money well spent, which in your case probably would have been, because trying to mount an external alt. on that engine would be a PITA. i can understand that. But wouldn't repairing the water flow system follow under the same notion? Pay the money and have it fixed right?- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Yea, the electric pump is most likely not a good idea. And I can't argue with you about servicing the outdrive since that's the conclusion I came to myself as well. But the outdrive is just enough of a pain to see how others might decide an engine driven mechanical pump would be better. I don;t know much about the 170 or 470 but most of the harmonic balancers I've worked with do not really have the pulleys built in. They are just bolted to the front and get so stuck that they seem like they are part of the balancer. I'm not saying I would do it but I can see how a guy mught decide to fabricate some brackets and mount a water pump there. I've had a random thought about switching to the cam nose mounted pump myself occasionally. But I'm thinking there ain't a timing cover for the 170 with a pump mount on it :-) |
Mercruiser Carb Conversion
I've been following this thread from the start but, even though I've
owned several sterndrives over the years, I'm a bit lost with the mounting probs and brackets etc. The engines in mine were just converted auto engines with a belt driven water pump already bolted onto the front of the block as per usual. On Tue, 22 Apr 08, "jamesgangnc" wrote: the original merc outdrive really is the bottom half of an outboard and that's where they all are on outboards. But also keep in mind that the upper half is the bit that needs the cooling and it's an "Inboard". None of which (straight inboards) need an outboard type impeller. I've always wondered why the designers didn't just get the cooling water through the bottom of the boat like any normal straight inboard setup. One of the reasons I don't care for sterndrives is it seems like they all have so many unnecessary complexities designed into them. And cooling water intake is just one of them. Maybe I'm missing something but what's the point in sucking up water with the outdrive with all its additional parts and probs when sucking it through a thru hull (like a zillion straight inboards) would be so simple? Rick |
Mercruiser Carb Conversion
On Apr 23, 12:42*pm, wrote:
I've been following this thread from the start but, even though I've owned several sterndrives over the years, I'm a bit lost with the mounting probs and brackets etc. The engines in mine were just converted auto engines with a belt driven water pump already bolted onto the front of the block as per usual. But these arn't your typical car engine convert. From what I gather, this was some concoction of Mercruisers own design where they took half of a ford 460 (sor of) and made their own rig. The alternator is actually in the front harmonic balancer. Not an alternator like you would know. and was energized by spinning magnets around a stator coil. Very similar to an outboard or a Briggs & Stratton. compact, but no power, and extremely expensive. Reliability for the charging system was iffy, too. Plus, no belt drives, only one for the power steering. googly. honestly, you'd have to see one to appreciate it. |
Mercruiser Carb Conversion
wrote in message ... I've been following this thread from the start but, even though I've owned several sterndrives over the years, I'm a bit lost with the mounting probs and brackets etc. The engines in mine were just converted auto engines with a belt driven water pump already bolted onto the front of the block as per usual. On Tue, 22 Apr 08, "jamesgangnc" wrote: the original merc outdrive really is the bottom half of an outboard and that's where they all are on outboards. But also keep in mind that the upper half is the bit that needs the cooling and it's an "Inboard". None of which (straight inboards) need an outboard type impeller. I've always wondered why the designers didn't just get the cooling water through the bottom of the boat like any normal straight inboard setup. One of the reasons I don't care for sterndrives is it seems like they all have so many unnecessary complexities designed into them. And cooling water intake is just one of them. Maybe I'm missing something but what's the point in sucking up water with the outdrive with all its additional parts and probs when sucking it through a thru hull (like a zillion straight inboards) would be so simple? Rick The Merc. small outdrive or any outboard water pump is immersed in water. No need to suck, just push. I suspect that the engineers felt it unnecessary to reinvent a proven design when they adapted an outboard lower to an inboard engine. Later when FWC and high HP engines came along they found the little outboard water pump couldn't deliver the needed volume of cooling water. Back to the drawing board for a new solution. |
Mercruiser Carb Conversion
"Tim" wrote in message ... On Apr 23, 12:42 pm, wrote: I've been following this thread from the start but, even though I've owned several sterndrives over the years, I'm a bit lost with the mounting probs and brackets etc. The engines in mine were just converted auto engines with a belt driven water pump already bolted onto the front of the block as per usual. But these arn't your typical car engine convert. From what I gather, this was some concoction of Mercruisers own design where they took half of a ford 460 (sor of) and made their own rig. The alternator is actually in the front harmonic balancer. Not an alternator like you would know. and was energized by spinning magnets around a stator coil. Very similar to an outboard or a Briggs & Stratton. compact, but no power, and extremely expensive. Reliability for the charging system was iffy, too. Plus, no belt drives, only one for the power steering. googly. honestly, you'd have to see one to appreciate it. It's pretty hard to appreciate that system. |
Mercruiser Carb Conversion
I helped a neighbor repower his 1988 21' Chris Craft Scorpion. It had a
small block Chevy V6 in it. It was a Mercruiser. After the huge disappointment of what a new Mercruiser engine would cost ($6K+), he decided to buy a rebuilt chevy car engine from Autozone. The cost was $899. He removed the freeze plugs and installed brass ones. He then replaced all the gaskets with Mercuiser stainless steel. He transferred the risers, carb, fuel pump, etc. This was about 7 years ago. He still has this boat today. Jim Rojas Jim wrote: "Tim" wrote in message ... On Apr 23, 12:42 pm, wrote: I've been following this thread from the start but, even though I've owned several sterndrives over the years, I'm a bit lost with the mounting probs and brackets etc. The engines in mine were just converted auto engines with a belt driven water pump already bolted onto the front of the block as per usual. But these arn't your typical car engine convert. From what I gather, this was some concoction of Mercruisers own design where they took half of a ford 460 (sor of) and made their own rig. The alternator is actually in the front harmonic balancer. Not an alternator like you would know. and was energized by spinning magnets around a stator coil. Very similar to an outboard or a Briggs & Stratton. compact, but no power, and extremely expensive. Reliability for the charging system was iffy, too. Plus, no belt drives, only one for the power steering. googly. honestly, you'd have to see one to appreciate it. It's pretty hard to appreciate that system. |
Mercruiser Carb Conversion
On Apr 23, 2:13*pm, "Jim" wrote:
wrote in message ... I've been following this thread from the start but, even though I've owned several sterndrives over the years, I'm a bit lost with the mounting probs and brackets etc. The engines in mine were just converted auto engines with a belt driven water pump already bolted onto the front of the block as per usual. On Tue, 22 Apr 08, "jamesgangnc" wrote: the original merc outdrive really is the bottom half of an outboard and that's where they all are on outboards. But also keep in mind that the upper half is the bit that needs the cooling and it's an "Inboard". None of which (straight inboards) need an outboard type impeller. *I've always wondered why the designers didn't just get the cooling water through the bottom of the boat like any normal straight inboard setup. One of the reasons I don't care for sterndrives is it seems like they all have so many unnecessary complexities designed into them. And cooling water intake is just one of them. Maybe I'm missing something but what's the point in sucking up water with the outdrive with all its additional parts and probs when sucking it through a thru hull (like a zillion straight inboards) would be so simple? Rick The Merc. small outdrive or any outboard *water pump is immersed in water. |
Mercruiser Carb Conversion
Jim Rojas wrote:
Mercruiser engine would cost ($6K+), he decided to buy a rebuilt chevy car engine from Autozone. At one time here, the auto parts stores were selling as many short blocks to power sterndrives as they were to power cars. I replaced one in about 1976, the store replaced the freeze plugs, no charge, and the last time I saw the boat (maybe 8-10 years ago) that replacement block was still going strong. All I did was unbolt everything from the original (cracked) block, bolted it onto the rebuilt short block, and I was good to go. I don't remember what the short block cost but it wasn't much, Rick |
Mercruiser Carb Conversion
wrote in message ... On Apr 23, 2:13 pm, "Jim" wrote: wrote in message ... I've been following this thread from the start but, even though I've owned several sterndrives over the years, I'm a bit lost with the mounting probs and brackets etc. The engines in mine were just converted auto engines with a belt driven water pump already bolted onto the front of the block as per usual. On Tue, 22 Apr 08, "jamesgangnc" wrote: the original merc outdrive really is the bottom half of an outboard and that's where they all are on outboards. But also keep in mind that the upper half is the bit that needs the cooling and it's an "Inboard". None of which (straight inboards) need an outboard type impeller. I've always wondered why the designers didn't just get the cooling water through the bottom of the boat like any normal straight inboard setup. One of the reasons I don't care for sterndrives is it seems like they all have so many unnecessary complexities designed into them. And cooling water intake is just one of them. Maybe I'm missing something but what's the point in sucking up water with the outdrive with all its additional parts and probs when sucking it through a thru hull (like a zillion straight inboards) would be so simple? Rick The Merc. small outdrive or any outboard water pump is immersed in water. No need to suck, just push. I suspect that the engineers felt it unnecessary to reinvent a proven design when they adapted an outboard lower to an inboard engine. Later when FWC and high HP engines came along they found the little outboard water pump couldn't deliver the needed volume of cooling water. Back to the drawing board for a new solution.- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - The inside water pumps are basically the same design rubber vaned pumps. All of them will self prime if needed and the distance is not far. I don't think the internal pumps are self priming. I would consider changing my mind on that if I could see some proof. |
Mercruiser Carb Conversion
Phantman wrote:
I've always wondered why the designers didn't just get the cooling water through the bottom of the boat like any normal straight inboard setup. Jim wrote: I suspect that the engineers felt it unnecessary to reinvent a proven design JamesGangNC wrote: The inside water pumps are basically the same design rubber vaned pumps. All of them will self prime if needed and the distance is not far. Jim wrote: I don't think the internal pumps are self priming. I would consider changing my mind on that if I could see some proof. Phantman wrote: Are you familiar with inboards? I don't mean sterndrives. I mean proven design straight inboards that have been around since long before sterndrives were dreamed up (and still common everywhere). They get their raw water through the boat's bottom via a thru hull fitting. Whether or not they use a standard automotive pump or a special marine design that's self priming, I'm not sure. But whatever it is, it sure looks like a standard auto water pump and bolts right into place. Jim wrote: Rick, the pump under discussion is the raw water pump that brings water into the boat, not the circulating pump. Well, lets get on the same page then. My question was, "why wouldn't the designer of a sterndrive use the same less complex method of cooling water intake that Inboards have always used (and still use). It's a time tested and proven design, no hauling the boat for impeller maintenance, and less expensive to build. I see no advantage to their more complex, more difficult to maintain design. That's not to say it doesn't work at all, obviously it does. But it's one of several complexities of standard sterndrive design that could easily be simplified imho. Rick |
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