|
Mercruiser Carb Conversion
I live in Florida, and I don't have alot of money. Most marinas and
mobile guys charge $150 + parts for the impeller. And you do have to replace them every year. Jim Rojas Tim wrote: On Apr 21, 1:33 pm, Jim Rojas wrote: wrote: On Apr 21, 12:13 pm, Jim Rojas wrote: The hardest part was getting the harmonic balancer removed. I was able to get a puller & inserter on loan from Autozone. The old stator came off pretty easy. The magnets however were all busted up, and I had to carefully look around for loose pieces. When it was all setup and done, the kit was well worth it. It came with the brackets, bolts, washers, belt, and wiring harness, along with a step by step full illustration. Jim Rojas Tim wrote: On Apr 21, 9:16 am, Jim Rojas wrote: No offense taken. I am just glad to see people in this newsgroup willing to help. Jim Rojas Ernest Scribbler wrote: "Jim Rojas" wrote Yeah...that I am an idiot... :) Sorry if that's what I implied, not really what I meant to say.- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Throttle body is kind fo neat , that is on a car, but look at all you'd have to do for a boat. High pressure fuel pump, computer timing etc, etc. It HAS been done, but it's not worth the cost of a change over..... BTW, i know exactly the the alternator kit you used. and with the exception of making the brackets. The alternator is only about $55-65.00- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - So you used an electric water pump to replace the raw water pump in the outdrive? What prompted that? Laziness for the most part. It is a pain in the ass to drain the lower unit, unbolt it, remove it, replace the parts. I tried doing it myself once. I followed the step by step directions in the Clymer manual, but I screwed up and now the boat doesn't go into reverse. I ended up hiring a mobile marine mechanic to fix it right. Now that I have the electric raw water pump setup, All I have to worry about is replacing just the lower unit gear oil every season. An electric pump take me 5 minutes to replace, and it costs the same as an impeller kit. Jim Rojas- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Ingenuity is good. But one thing I must question. I know the kit you bought to repair your charging system. It' is expensive, but it does work, fit and is professionally made. and you gave $400.+ bucks for it and thought it was money well spent, which in your case probably would have been, because trying to mount an external alt. on that engine would be a PITA. i can understand that. But wouldn't repairing the water flow system follow under the same notion? Pay the money and have it fixed right? |
Mercruiser Carb Conversion
Actually you can probably get 4 or 5 years out of an impeller if you keep
the lower unit out of the sand. Sand eats them up pretty quick. Also make sure you NEVER run it without a water supply. I occasionally check mine and have replaced it a couple times. Truth is I've never had a "bad" one. Even the ones that were 4 or 5 years old still looked fine. I replaced them anyway. My boat is a 1990 and it's had 4 impellers and none of the old ones had anything significantly wrong with them. Merc just advises every year to cover their own asses. If you couldn't get it into reverse that probably means you did not have the shift shaft lined up properly. It's a splined shaft and is not keyed. It is a pain to hold the prop engaged while getting the lower half on to make sure the shifter is in the right spot. But there are a number of reasons to be competent at removing the outdrive like occasionally greasing the u-joints. I usually take mine off every other winter, check the impeller, grease the u-joints, and replace the gear lube. On the odd winters and occasionally during the summer I "sample" the lube at the drain to make sure it still looks good and doesn't have any water in it. If you really don't like the pump in the outdrive you can get a engine driven mechanical one. That's what the volvoes and bravoes have. There are a lot of boat scrap yards down there where you could probably dig up the brackets. Sounds like you might not have an electric pump that is up to the prolonged cycle you are running it at. That will be a real pain if it craps out on you. A mechanical pump is less likely to completely fail like an electric motor. Nothin personal but I'm going with "bad idea" on your electric water pump. "Jim Rojas" wrote in message news:FR8Pj.7450$aq4.6493@trnddc02... I live in Florida, and I don't have alot of money. Most marinas and mobile guys charge $150 + parts for the impeller. And you do have to replace them every year. Jim Rojas Tim wrote: On Apr 21, 1:33 pm, Jim Rojas wrote: wrote: On Apr 21, 12:13 pm, Jim Rojas wrote: The hardest part was getting the harmonic balancer removed. I was able to get a puller & inserter on loan from Autozone. The old stator came off pretty easy. The magnets however were all busted up, and I had to carefully look around for loose pieces. When it was all setup and done, the kit was well worth it. It came with the brackets, bolts, washers, belt, and wiring harness, along with a step by step full illustration. Jim Rojas Tim wrote: On Apr 21, 9:16 am, Jim Rojas wrote: No offense taken. I am just glad to see people in this newsgroup willing to help. Jim Rojas Ernest Scribbler wrote: "Jim Rojas" wrote Yeah...that I am an idiot... :) Sorry if that's what I implied, not really what I meant to say.- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Throttle body is kind fo neat , that is on a car, but look at all you'd have to do for a boat. High pressure fuel pump, computer timing etc, etc. It HAS been done, but it's not worth the cost of a change over..... BTW, i know exactly the the alternator kit you used. and with the exception of making the brackets. The alternator is only about $55-65.00- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - So you used an electric water pump to replace the raw water pump in the outdrive? What prompted that? Laziness for the most part. It is a pain in the ass to drain the lower unit, unbolt it, remove it, replace the parts. I tried doing it myself once. I followed the step by step directions in the Clymer manual, but I screwed up and now the boat doesn't go into reverse. I ended up hiring a mobile marine mechanic to fix it right. Now that I have the electric raw water pump setup, All I have to worry about is replacing just the lower unit gear oil every season. An electric pump take me 5 minutes to replace, and it costs the same as an impeller kit. Jim Rojas- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Ingenuity is good. But one thing I must question. I know the kit you bought to repair your charging system. It' is expensive, but it does work, fit and is professionally made. and you gave $400.+ bucks for it and thought it was money well spent, which in your case probably would have been, because trying to mount an external alt. on that engine would be a PITA. i can understand that. But wouldn't repairing the water flow system follow under the same notion? Pay the money and have it fixed right? |
Mercruiser Carb Conversion
Like this one?
http://www.go2marine.com/product.do?no=116154F Jim Rojas jamesgangnc wrote: Actually you can probably get 4 or 5 years out of an impeller if you keep the lower unit out of the sand. Sand eats them up pretty quick. Also make sure you NEVER run it without a water supply. I occasionally check mine and have replaced it a couple times. Truth is I've never had a "bad" one. Even the ones that were 4 or 5 years old still looked fine. I replaced them anyway. My boat is a 1990 and it's had 4 impellers and none of the old ones had anything significantly wrong with them. Merc just advises every year to cover their own asses. If you couldn't get it into reverse that probably means you did not have the shift shaft lined up properly. It's a splined shaft and is not keyed. It is a pain to hold the prop engaged while getting the lower half on to make sure the shifter is in the right spot. But there are a number of reasons to be competent at removing the outdrive like occasionally greasing the u-joints. I usually take mine off every other winter, check the impeller, grease the u-joints, and replace the gear lube. On the odd winters and occasionally during the summer I "sample" the lube at the drain to make sure it still looks good and doesn't have any water in it. If you really don't like the pump in the outdrive you can get a engine driven mechanical one. That's what the volvoes and bravoes have. There are a lot of boat scrap yards down there where you could probably dig up the brackets. Sounds like you might not have an electric pump that is up to the prolonged cycle you are running it at. That will be a real pain if it craps out on you. A mechanical pump is less likely to completely fail like an electric motor. Nothin personal but I'm going with "bad idea" on your electric water pump. "Jim Rojas" wrote in message news:FR8Pj.7450$aq4.6493@trnddc02... I live in Florida, and I don't have alot of money. Most marinas and mobile guys charge $150 + parts for the impeller. And you do have to replace them every year. Jim Rojas Tim wrote: On Apr 21, 1:33 pm, Jim Rojas wrote: wrote: On Apr 21, 12:13 pm, Jim Rojas wrote: The hardest part was getting the harmonic balancer removed. I was able to get a puller & inserter on loan from Autozone. The old stator came off pretty easy. The magnets however were all busted up, and I had to carefully look around for loose pieces. When it was all setup and done, the kit was well worth it. It came with the brackets, bolts, washers, belt, and wiring harness, along with a step by step full illustration. Jim Rojas Tim wrote: On Apr 21, 9:16 am, Jim Rojas wrote: No offense taken. I am just glad to see people in this newsgroup willing to help. Jim Rojas Ernest Scribbler wrote: "Jim Rojas" wrote Yeah...that I am an idiot... :) Sorry if that's what I implied, not really what I meant to say.- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Throttle body is kind fo neat , that is on a car, but look at all you'd have to do for a boat. High pressure fuel pump, computer timing etc, etc. It HAS been done, but it's not worth the cost of a change over..... BTW, i know exactly the the alternator kit you used. and with the exception of making the brackets. The alternator is only about $55-65.00- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - So you used an electric water pump to replace the raw water pump in the outdrive? What prompted that? Laziness for the most part. It is a pain in the ass to drain the lower unit, unbolt it, remove it, replace the parts. I tried doing it myself once. I followed the step by step directions in the Clymer manual, but I screwed up and now the boat doesn't go into reverse. I ended up hiring a mobile marine mechanic to fix it right. Now that I have the electric raw water pump setup, All I have to worry about is replacing just the lower unit gear oil every season. An electric pump take me 5 minutes to replace, and it costs the same as an impeller kit. Jim Rojas- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Ingenuity is good. But one thing I must question. I know the kit you bought to repair your charging system. It' is expensive, but it does work, fit and is professionally made. and you gave $400.+ bucks for it and thought it was money well spent, which in your case probably would have been, because trying to mount an external alt. on that engine would be a PITA. i can understand that. But wouldn't repairing the water flow system follow under the same notion? Pay the money and have it fixed right? |
Mercruiser Carb Conversion
Yep, that's one of them. There is a bunch of them and probably any number
of them would work if you have the appropriate brackets. Imho in Florida I'd be looking for some junk boat yards as a source of brackets and possibly a pump too. "Jim Rojas" wrote in message news:TCaPj.8271$pH4.3081@trnddc06... Like this one? http://www.go2marine.com/product.do?no=116154F Jim Rojas jamesgangnc wrote: Actually you can probably get 4 or 5 years out of an impeller if you keep the lower unit out of the sand. Sand eats them up pretty quick. Also make sure you NEVER run it without a water supply. I occasionally check mine and have replaced it a couple times. Truth is I've never had a "bad" one. Even the ones that were 4 or 5 years old still looked fine. I replaced them anyway. My boat is a 1990 and it's had 4 impellers and none of the old ones had anything significantly wrong with them. Merc just advises every year to cover their own asses. If you couldn't get it into reverse that probably means you did not have the shift shaft lined up properly. It's a splined shaft and is not keyed. It is a pain to hold the prop engaged while getting the lower half on to make sure the shifter is in the right spot. But there are a number of reasons to be competent at removing the outdrive like occasionally greasing the u-joints. I usually take mine off every other winter, check the impeller, grease the u-joints, and replace the gear lube. On the odd winters and occasionally during the summer I "sample" the lube at the drain to make sure it still looks good and doesn't have any water in it. If you really don't like the pump in the outdrive you can get a engine driven mechanical one. That's what the volvoes and bravoes have. There are a lot of boat scrap yards down there where you could probably dig up the brackets. Sounds like you might not have an electric pump that is up to the prolonged cycle you are running it at. That will be a real pain if it craps out on you. A mechanical pump is less likely to completely fail like an electric motor. Nothin personal but I'm going with "bad idea" on your electric water pump. "Jim Rojas" wrote in message news:FR8Pj.7450$aq4.6493@trnddc02... I live in Florida, and I don't have alot of money. Most marinas and mobile guys charge $150 + parts for the impeller. And you do have to replace them every year. Jim Rojas Tim wrote: On Apr 21, 1:33 pm, Jim Rojas wrote: wrote: On Apr 21, 12:13 pm, Jim Rojas wrote: The hardest part was getting the harmonic balancer removed. I was able to get a puller & inserter on loan from Autozone. The old stator came off pretty easy. The magnets however were all busted up, and I had to carefully look around for loose pieces. When it was all setup and done, the kit was well worth it. It came with the brackets, bolts, washers, belt, and wiring harness, along with a step by step full illustration. Jim Rojas Tim wrote: On Apr 21, 9:16 am, Jim Rojas wrote: No offense taken. I am just glad to see people in this newsgroup willing to help. Jim Rojas Ernest Scribbler wrote: "Jim Rojas" wrote Yeah...that I am an idiot... :) Sorry if that's what I implied, not really what I meant to say.- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Throttle body is kind fo neat , that is on a car, but look at all you'd have to do for a boat. High pressure fuel pump, computer timing etc, etc. It HAS been done, but it's not worth the cost of a change over..... BTW, i know exactly the the alternator kit you used. and with the exception of making the brackets. The alternator is only about $55-65.00- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - So you used an electric water pump to replace the raw water pump in the outdrive? What prompted that? Laziness for the most part. It is a pain in the ass to drain the lower unit, unbolt it, remove it, replace the parts. I tried doing it myself once. I followed the step by step directions in the Clymer manual, but I screwed up and now the boat doesn't go into reverse. I ended up hiring a mobile marine mechanic to fix it right. Now that I have the electric raw water pump setup, All I have to worry about is replacing just the lower unit gear oil every season. An electric pump take me 5 minutes to replace, and it costs the same as an impeller kit. Jim Rojas- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Ingenuity is good. But one thing I must question. I know the kit you bought to repair your charging system. It' is expensive, but it does work, fit and is professionally made. and you gave $400.+ bucks for it and thought it was money well spent, which in your case probably would have been, because trying to mount an external alt. on that engine would be a PITA. i can understand that. But wouldn't repairing the water flow system follow under the same notion? Pay the money and have it fixed right? |
Mercruiser Carb Conversion
We do have a rather large boat salvage yard here. In the past, when I
tried to purchase parts, their pricing is often the same as buying it new. Jim Rojas jamesgangnc wrote: Yep, that's one of them. There is a bunch of them and probably any number of them would work if you have the appropriate brackets. Imho in Florida I'd be looking for some junk boat yards as a source of brackets and possibly a pump too. "Jim Rojas" wrote in message news:TCaPj.8271$pH4.3081@trnddc06... Like this one? http://www.go2marine.com/product.do?no=116154F Jim Rojas jamesgangnc wrote: Actually you can probably get 4 or 5 years out of an impeller if you keep the lower unit out of the sand. Sand eats them up pretty quick. Also make sure you NEVER run it without a water supply. I occasionally check mine and have replaced it a couple times. Truth is I've never had a "bad" one. Even the ones that were 4 or 5 years old still looked fine. I replaced them anyway. My boat is a 1990 and it's had 4 impellers and none of the old ones had anything significantly wrong with them. Merc just advises every year to cover their own asses. If you couldn't get it into reverse that probably means you did not have the shift shaft lined up properly. It's a splined shaft and is not keyed. It is a pain to hold the prop engaged while getting the lower half on to make sure the shifter is in the right spot. But there are a number of reasons to be competent at removing the outdrive like occasionally greasing the u-joints. I usually take mine off every other winter, check the impeller, grease the u-joints, and replace the gear lube. On the odd winters and occasionally during the summer I "sample" the lube at the drain to make sure it still looks good and doesn't have any water in it. If you really don't like the pump in the outdrive you can get a engine driven mechanical one. That's what the volvoes and bravoes have. There are a lot of boat scrap yards down there where you could probably dig up the brackets. Sounds like you might not have an electric pump that is up to the prolonged cycle you are running it at. That will be a real pain if it craps out on you. A mechanical pump is less likely to completely fail like an electric motor. Nothin personal but I'm going with "bad idea" on your electric water pump. "Jim Rojas" wrote in message news:FR8Pj.7450$aq4.6493@trnddc02... I live in Florida, and I don't have alot of money. Most marinas and mobile guys charge $150 + parts for the impeller. And you do have to replace them every year. Jim Rojas Tim wrote: On Apr 21, 1:33 pm, Jim Rojas wrote: wrote: On Apr 21, 12:13 pm, Jim Rojas wrote: The hardest part was getting the harmonic balancer removed. I was able to get a puller & inserter on loan from Autozone. The old stator came off pretty easy. The magnets however were all busted up, and I had to carefully look around for loose pieces. When it was all setup and done, the kit was well worth it. It came with the brackets, bolts, washers, belt, and wiring harness, along with a step by step full illustration. Jim Rojas Tim wrote: On Apr 21, 9:16 am, Jim Rojas wrote: No offense taken. I am just glad to see people in this newsgroup willing to help. Jim Rojas Ernest Scribbler wrote: "Jim Rojas" wrote Yeah...that I am an idiot... :) Sorry if that's what I implied, not really what I meant to say.- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Throttle body is kind fo neat , that is on a car, but look at all you'd have to do for a boat. High pressure fuel pump, computer timing etc, etc. It HAS been done, but it's not worth the cost of a change over..... BTW, i know exactly the the alternator kit you used. and with the exception of making the brackets. The alternator is only about $55-65.00- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - So you used an electric water pump to replace the raw water pump in the outdrive? What prompted that? Laziness for the most part. It is a pain in the ass to drain the lower unit, unbolt it, remove it, replace the parts. I tried doing it myself once. I followed the step by step directions in the Clymer manual, but I screwed up and now the boat doesn't go into reverse. I ended up hiring a mobile marine mechanic to fix it right. Now that I have the electric raw water pump setup, All I have to worry about is replacing just the lower unit gear oil every season. An electric pump take me 5 minutes to replace, and it costs the same as an impeller kit. Jim Rojas- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Ingenuity is good. But one thing I must question. I know the kit you bought to repair your charging system. It' is expensive, but it does work, fit and is professionally made. and you gave $400.+ bucks for it and thought it was money well spent, which in your case probably would have been, because trying to mount an external alt. on that engine would be a PITA. i can understand that. But wouldn't repairing the water flow system follow under the same notion? Pay the money and have it fixed right? |
Mercruiser Carb Conversion
Try negotiating a bit maybe, who knows. Personally I've considered the idea
as well but decided the pump in the leg was not quite "evil" enough to justify it. But I can't argue it is a pain. Keep in mind the original merc outdrive really is the bottom half of an outboard and that's where they all are on outboards. Another option would be to fabricate the brackets. Lowes has some metal stock and it's usually just a matter of holding the pump and belt where you want to mount it, then cutting, bending, and drilling. Sometimes a few spacers, also available from lowes. Helps to have a torch for the bending though. My front pulley already has an unused belt location that would be a raw water pump in some installations. My other problem is that I already moved the steerig pump and alternator down to where the raw water pump is usually mounted when I got rid of the recirculating pump. Typically the engine mounted raw water pumps are below the crank pulley to help prime them easier. http://home.earthlink.net/~jamesgangnc/ebay/boateng.jpg "Jim Rojas" wrote in message news:LwkPj.11084$Zk5.1793@trnddc05... We do have a rather large boat salvage yard here. In the past, when I tried to purchase parts, their pricing is often the same as buying it new. Jim Rojas jamesgangnc wrote: Yep, that's one of them. There is a bunch of them and probably any number of them would work if you have the appropriate brackets. Imho in Florida I'd be looking for some junk boat yards as a source of brackets and possibly a pump too. "Jim Rojas" wrote in message news:TCaPj.8271$pH4.3081@trnddc06... Like this one? http://www.go2marine.com/product.do?no=116154F Jim Rojas jamesgangnc wrote: Actually you can probably get 4 or 5 years out of an impeller if you keep the lower unit out of the sand. Sand eats them up pretty quick. Also make sure you NEVER run it without a water supply. I occasionally check mine and have replaced it a couple times. Truth is I've never had a "bad" one. Even the ones that were 4 or 5 years old still looked fine. I replaced them anyway. My boat is a 1990 and it's had 4 impellers and none of the old ones had anything significantly wrong with them. Merc just advises every year to cover their own asses. If you couldn't get it into reverse that probably means you did not have the shift shaft lined up properly. It's a splined shaft and is not keyed. It is a pain to hold the prop engaged while getting the lower half on to make sure the shifter is in the right spot. But there are a number of reasons to be competent at removing the outdrive like occasionally greasing the u-joints. I usually take mine off every other winter, check the impeller, grease the u-joints, and replace the gear lube. On the odd winters and occasionally during the summer I "sample" the lube at the drain to make sure it still looks good and doesn't have any water in it. If you really don't like the pump in the outdrive you can get a engine driven mechanical one. That's what the volvoes and bravoes have. There are a lot of boat scrap yards down there where you could probably dig up the brackets. Sounds like you might not have an electric pump that is up to the prolonged cycle you are running it at. That will be a real pain if it craps out on you. A mechanical pump is less likely to completely fail like an electric motor. Nothin personal but I'm going with "bad idea" on your electric water pump. "Jim Rojas" wrote in message news:FR8Pj.7450$aq4.6493@trnddc02... I live in Florida, and I don't have alot of money. Most marinas and mobile guys charge $150 + parts for the impeller. And you do have to replace them every year. Jim Rojas Tim wrote: On Apr 21, 1:33 pm, Jim Rojas wrote: wrote: On Apr 21, 12:13 pm, Jim Rojas wrote: The hardest part was getting the harmonic balancer removed. I was able to get a puller & inserter on loan from Autozone. The old stator came off pretty easy. The magnets however were all busted up, and I had to carefully look around for loose pieces. When it was all setup and done, the kit was well worth it. It came with the brackets, bolts, washers, belt, and wiring harness, along with a step by step full illustration. Jim Rojas Tim wrote: On Apr 21, 9:16 am, Jim Rojas wrote: No offense taken. I am just glad to see people in this newsgroup willing to help. Jim Rojas Ernest Scribbler wrote: "Jim Rojas" wrote Yeah...that I am an idiot... :) Sorry if that's what I implied, not really what I meant to say.- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Throttle body is kind fo neat , that is on a car, but look at all you'd have to do for a boat. High pressure fuel pump, computer timing etc, etc. It HAS been done, but it's not worth the cost of a change over..... BTW, i know exactly the the alternator kit you used. and with the exception of making the brackets. The alternator is only about $55-65.00- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - So you used an electric water pump to replace the raw water pump in the outdrive? What prompted that? Laziness for the most part. It is a pain in the ass to drain the lower unit, unbolt it, remove it, replace the parts. I tried doing it myself once. I followed the step by step directions in the Clymer manual, but I screwed up and now the boat doesn't go into reverse. I ended up hiring a mobile marine mechanic to fix it right. Now that I have the electric raw water pump setup, All I have to worry about is replacing just the lower unit gear oil every season. An electric pump take me 5 minutes to replace, and it costs the same as an impeller kit. Jim Rojas- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Ingenuity is good. But one thing I must question. I know the kit you bought to repair your charging system. It' is expensive, but it does work, fit and is professionally made. and you gave $400.+ bucks for it and thought it was money well spent, which in your case probably would have been, because trying to mount an external alt. on that engine would be a PITA. i can understand that. But wouldn't repairing the water flow system follow under the same notion? Pay the money and have it fixed right? |
Mercruiser Carb Conversion
He's already changed the configuration of the front of the engine with the
alternator. That is a common modification. I have never heard of a pulley operated water pump setup for the 170. The Volvo harmonic balancer mounted water pump might work if it fits and isn't interfered with by belts. Too much work, in my opinion. He should learn how to service the outdrive. The setup he has now is destined for failure. "jamesgangnc" wrote in message m... Yep, that's one of them. There is a bunch of them and probably any number of them would work if you have the appropriate brackets. Imho in Florida I'd be looking for some junk boat yards as a source of brackets and possibly a pump too. "Jim Rojas" wrote in message news:TCaPj.8271$pH4.3081@trnddc06... Like this one? http://www.go2marine.com/product.do?no=116154F Jim Rojas jamesgangnc wrote: Actually you can probably get 4 or 5 years out of an impeller if you keep the lower unit out of the sand. Sand eats them up pretty quick. Also make sure you NEVER run it without a water supply. I occasionally check mine and have replaced it a couple times. Truth is I've never had a "bad" one. Even the ones that were 4 or 5 years old still looked fine. I replaced them anyway. My boat is a 1990 and it's had 4 impellers and none of the old ones had anything significantly wrong with them. Merc just advises every year to cover their own asses. If you couldn't get it into reverse that probably means you did not have the shift shaft lined up properly. It's a splined shaft and is not keyed. It is a pain to hold the prop engaged while getting the lower half on to make sure the shifter is in the right spot. But there are a number of reasons to be competent at removing the outdrive like occasionally greasing the u-joints. I usually take mine off every other winter, check the impeller, grease the u-joints, and replace the gear lube. On the odd winters and occasionally during the summer I "sample" the lube at the drain to make sure it still looks good and doesn't have any water in it. If you really don't like the pump in the outdrive you can get a engine driven mechanical one. That's what the volvoes and bravoes have. There are a lot of boat scrap yards down there where you could probably dig up the brackets. Sounds like you might not have an electric pump that is up to the prolonged cycle you are running it at. That will be a real pain if it craps out on you. A mechanical pump is less likely to completely fail like an electric motor. Nothin personal but I'm going with "bad idea" on your electric water pump. "Jim Rojas" wrote in message news:FR8Pj.7450$aq4.6493@trnddc02... I live in Florida, and I don't have alot of money. Most marinas and mobile guys charge $150 + parts for the impeller. And you do have to replace them every year. Jim Rojas Tim wrote: On Apr 21, 1:33 pm, Jim Rojas wrote: wrote: On Apr 21, 12:13 pm, Jim Rojas wrote: The hardest part was getting the harmonic balancer removed. I was able to get a puller & inserter on loan from Autozone. The old stator came off pretty easy. The magnets however were all busted up, and I had to carefully look around for loose pieces. When it was all setup and done, the kit was well worth it. It came with the brackets, bolts, washers, belt, and wiring harness, along with a step by step full illustration. Jim Rojas Tim wrote: On Apr 21, 9:16 am, Jim Rojas wrote: No offense taken. I am just glad to see people in this newsgroup willing to help. Jim Rojas Ernest Scribbler wrote: "Jim Rojas" wrote Yeah...that I am an idiot... :) Sorry if that's what I implied, not really what I meant to say.- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Throttle body is kind fo neat , that is on a car, but look at all you'd have to do for a boat. High pressure fuel pump, computer timing etc, etc. It HAS been done, but it's not worth the cost of a change over..... BTW, i know exactly the the alternator kit you used. and with the exception of making the brackets. The alternator is only about $55-65.00- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - So you used an electric water pump to replace the raw water pump in the outdrive? What prompted that? Laziness for the most part. It is a pain in the ass to drain the lower unit, unbolt it, remove it, replace the parts. I tried doing it myself once. I followed the step by step directions in the Clymer manual, but I screwed up and now the boat doesn't go into reverse. I ended up hiring a mobile marine mechanic to fix it right. Now that I have the electric raw water pump setup, All I have to worry about is replacing just the lower unit gear oil every season. An electric pump take me 5 minutes to replace, and it costs the same as an impeller kit. Jim Rojas- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Ingenuity is good. But one thing I must question. I know the kit you bought to repair your charging system. It' is expensive, but it does work, fit and is professionally made. and you gave $400.+ bucks for it and thought it was money well spent, which in your case probably would have been, because trying to mount an external alt. on that engine would be a PITA. i can understand that. But wouldn't repairing the water flow system follow under the same notion? Pay the money and have it fixed right? |
Mercruiser Carb Conversion
On Apr 22, 9:15*am, "Jim" wrote:
He's already changed the configuration of the front of the engine with the alternator. That is a common modification. I have never heard of a pulley operated water pump setup for the 170. The Volvo harmonic balancer mounted water pump might work if it fits and isn't interfered with by belts. Too much work, in my opinion. He should learn how to service the outdrive. The setup he has now is destined for failure. "jamesgangnc" wrote in message m... Yep, that's one of them. *There is a bunch of them and probably any number of them would work if you have the appropriate brackets. *Imho in Florida I'd be looking for some junk boat yards as a source of brackets and possibly a pump too. "Jim Rojas" wrote in message news:TCaPj.8271$pH4.3081@trnddc06... Like this one? http://www.go2marine.com/product.do?no=116154F Jim Rojas jamesgangnc wrote: Actually you can probably get 4 or 5 years out of an impeller if you keep the lower unit out of the sand. *Sand eats them up pretty quick.. Also make sure you NEVER run it without a water supply. *I occasionally check mine and have replaced it a couple times. *Truth is I've never had a "bad" one. *Even the ones that were 4 or 5 years old still looked fine. I replaced them anyway. *My boat is a 1990 and it's had 4 impellers and none of the old ones had anything significantly wrong with them. *Merc just advises every year to cover their own asses. If you couldn't get it into reverse that probably means you did not have the shift shaft lined up properly. *It's a splined shaft and is not keyed. *It is a pain to hold the prop engaged while getting the lower half on to make sure the shifter is in the right spot. *But there are a number of reasons to be competent at removing the outdrive like occasionally greasing the u-joints. *I usually take mine off every other winter, check the impeller, grease the u-joints, and replace the gear lube. *On the odd winters and occasionally during the summer I "sample" the lube at the drain to make sure it still looks good and doesn't have any water in it. If you really don't like the pump in the outdrive you can get a engine driven mechanical one. *That's what the volvoes and bravoes have. *There are a lot of boat scrap yards down there where you could probably dig up the brackets. *Sounds like you might not have an electric pump that is up to the prolonged cycle you are running it at. *That will be a real pain if it craps out on you. *A mechanical pump is less likely to completely fail like an electric motor. *Nothin personal but I'm going with "bad idea" on your electric water pump. "Jim Rojas" wrote in message news:FR8Pj.7450$aq4.6493@trnddc02... I live in Florida, and I don't have alot of money. Most marinas and mobile guys charge $150 + parts for the impeller. And you do have to replace them every year. Jim Rojas Tim wrote: On Apr 21, 1:33 pm, Jim Rojas wrote: wrote: On Apr 21, 12:13 pm, Jim Rojas wrote: The hardest part was getting the harmonic balancer removed. I was able to get a puller & inserter on loan from Autozone. The old stator came off pretty easy. The magnets however were all busted up, and I had to carefully look around for loose pieces. When it was all setup and done, the kit was well worth it. It came with the brackets, bolts, washers, belt, and wiring harness, along with a step by step full illustration. Jim Rojas Tim wrote: On Apr 21, 9:16 am, Jim Rojas wrote: No offense taken. I am just glad to see people in this newsgroup willing to help. Jim Rojas Ernest Scribbler wrote: "Jim Rojas" wrote Yeah...that I am an idiot... :) Sorry if that's what I implied, not really what I meant to say..- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Throttle body is kind fo neat , that is on a car, but look at all you'd have to do for a boat. High pressure fuel pump, computer timing etc, etc. It HAS been done, but it's not worth the cost of a change over..... BTW, i know exactly the the alternator kit you used. and with the exception of making the brackets. The alternator is only about $55-65.00- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - So you used an electric water pump to replace the raw water pump in the outdrive? *What prompted that? Laziness for the most part. It is a pain in the ass to drain the lower unit, unbolt it, remove it, replace the parts. I tried doing it myself once. I followed the step by step directions in the Clymer manual, but I screwed up and now the boat doesn't go into reverse. I ended up hiring a mobile marine mechanic to fix it right. Now that I have the electric raw water pump setup, All I have to worry about is replacing just the lower unit gear oil every season. An electric pump take me 5 minutes to replace, and it costs the same as an impeller kit. Jim Rojas- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Ingenuity is good. But one thing I must question. I know the kit you bought to repair your charging system. It' is expensive, but it does work, fit and is professionally made. and you gave $400.+ bucks for it and thought it was money well spent, which in your case probably would have been, because trying to mount an external alt. on that engine would be a PITA. i can understand that. But wouldn't repairing the water flow system follow under the same notion? Pay the money and have it fixed right?- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Yea, the electric pump is most likely not a good idea. And I can't argue with you about servicing the outdrive since that's the conclusion I came to myself as well. But the outdrive is just enough of a pain to see how others might decide an engine driven mechanical pump would be better. I don;t know much about the 170 or 470 but most of the harmonic balancers I've worked with do not really have the pulleys built in. They are just bolted to the front and get so stuck that they seem like they are part of the balancer. I'm not saying I would do it but I can see how a guy mught decide to fabricate some brackets and mount a water pump there. I've had a random thought about switching to the cam nose mounted pump myself occasionally. But I'm thinking there ain't a timing cover for the 170 with a pump mount on it :-) |
Mercruiser Carb Conversion
You don't have to have another belt if you can get a pump in line with
another accessory. Then just get a bigger belt. But in all honesty I would simply go back to the outdrive pump. It works fine for hundreds of thousands of installations and really does not need to be replaced every year if you do not abuse it. "Jim Rojas" wrote in message news:WArPj.9620$aq4.2258@trnddc02... One of the optional alternator conversion kits has a pulley that mounts directly onto the Harmonic balancer. A bracket, and a separate belt would be required. Being that I have power steering, there is no room for the pump anywhere on the existing pulley system. Jim Rojas wrote: On Apr 22, 9:15 am, "Jim" wrote: He's already changed the configuration of the front of the engine with the alternator. That is a common modification. I have never heard of a pulley operated water pump setup for the 170. The Volvo harmonic balancer mounted water pump might work if it fits and isn't interfered with by belts. Too much work, in my opinion. He should learn how to service the outdrive. The setup he has now is destined for failure. "jamesgangnc" wrote in message m... Yep, that's one of them. There is a bunch of them and probably any number of them would work if you have the appropriate brackets. Imho in Florida I'd be looking for some junk boat yards as a source of brackets and possibly a pump too. "Jim Rojas" wrote in message news:TCaPj.8271$pH4.3081@trnddc06... Like this one? http://www.go2marine.com/product.do?no=116154F Jim Rojas jamesgangnc wrote: Actually you can probably get 4 or 5 years out of an impeller if you keep the lower unit out of the sand. Sand eats them up pretty quick. Also make sure you NEVER run it without a water supply. I occasionally check mine and have replaced it a couple times. Truth is I've never had a "bad" one. Even the ones that were 4 or 5 years old still looked fine. I replaced them anyway. My boat is a 1990 and it's had 4 impellers and none of the old ones had anything significantly wrong with them. Merc just advises every year to cover their own asses. If you couldn't get it into reverse that probably means you did not have the shift shaft lined up properly. It's a splined shaft and is not keyed. It is a pain to hold the prop engaged while getting the lower half on to make sure the shifter is in the right spot. But there are a number of reasons to be competent at removing the outdrive like occasionally greasing the u-joints. I usually take mine off every other winter, check the impeller, grease the u-joints, and replace the gear lube. On the odd winters and occasionally during the summer I "sample" the lube at the drain to make sure it still looks good and doesn't have any water in it. If you really don't like the pump in the outdrive you can get a engine driven mechanical one. That's what the volvoes and bravoes have. There are a lot of boat scrap yards down there where you could probably dig up the brackets. Sounds like you might not have an electric pump that is up to the prolonged cycle you are running it at. That will be a real pain if it craps out on you. A mechanical pump is less likely to completely fail like an electric motor. Nothin personal but I'm going with "bad idea" on your electric water pump. "Jim Rojas" wrote in message news:FR8Pj.7450$aq4.6493@trnddc02... I live in Florida, and I don't have alot of money. Most marinas and mobile guys charge $150 + parts for the impeller. And you do have to replace them every year. Jim Rojas Tim wrote: On Apr 21, 1:33 pm, Jim Rojas wrote: wrote: On Apr 21, 12:13 pm, Jim Rojas wrote: The hardest part was getting the harmonic balancer removed. I was able to get a puller & inserter on loan from Autozone. The old stator came off pretty easy. The magnets however were all busted up, and I had to carefully look around for loose pieces. When it was all setup and done, the kit was well worth it. It came with the brackets, bolts, washers, belt, and wiring harness, along with a step by step full illustration. Jim Rojas Tim wrote: On Apr 21, 9:16 am, Jim Rojas wrote: No offense taken. I am just glad to see people in this newsgroup willing to help. Jim Rojas Ernest Scribbler wrote: "Jim Rojas" wrote Yeah...that I am an idiot... :) Sorry if that's what I implied, not really what I meant to say.- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Throttle body is kind fo neat , that is on a car, but look at all you'd have to do for a boat. High pressure fuel pump, computer timing etc, etc. It HAS been done, but it's not worth the cost of a change over..... BTW, i know exactly the the alternator kit you used. and with the exception of making the brackets. The alternator is only about $55-65.00- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - So you used an electric water pump to replace the raw water pump in the outdrive? What prompted that? Laziness for the most part. It is a pain in the ass to drain the lower unit, unbolt it, remove it, replace the parts. I tried doing it myself once. I followed the step by step directions in the Clymer manual, but I screwed up and now the boat doesn't go into reverse. I ended up hiring a mobile marine mechanic to fix it right. Now that I have the electric raw water pump setup, All I have to worry about is replacing just the lower unit gear oil every season. An electric pump take me 5 minutes to replace, and it costs the same as an impeller kit. Jim Rojas- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Ingenuity is good. But one thing I must question. I know the kit you bought to repair your charging system. It' is expensive, but it does work, fit and is professionally made. and you gave $400.+ bucks for it and thought it was money well spent, which in your case probably would have been, because trying to mount an external alt. on that engine would be a PITA. i can understand that. But wouldn't repairing the water flow system follow under the same notion? Pay the money and have it fixed right?- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Yea, the electric pump is most likely not a good idea. And I can't argue with you about servicing the outdrive since that's the conclusion I came to myself as well. But the outdrive is just enough of a pain to see how others might decide an engine driven mechanical pump would be better. I don;t know much about the 170 or 470 but most of the harmonic balancers I've worked with do not really have the pulleys built in. They are just bolted to the front and get so stuck that they seem like they are part of the balancer. I'm not saying I would do it but I can see how a guy mught decide to fabricate some brackets and mount a water pump there. I've had a random thought about switching to the cam nose mounted pump myself occasionally. But I'm thinking there ain't a timing cover for the 170 with a pump mount on it :-) |
| All times are GMT +1. The time now is 02:50 PM. |
Powered by vBulletin® Copyright ©2000 - 2025, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright ©2004 - 2014 BoatBanter.com