Changing oils
 

On Apr 15, 2:33*am, "John" wrote:
"Robert M. Gary" wrote in ...

I'm looking through the previous owner's service receipts on my 03
Bayliner 185 (4.3L) boat. The dealer is charging $600 to change the
engine and drive oils.

The reason they get the name "Stealership".

Change the oil yourself! *go to harbourfeight.com they sell a standup oil
pump for $20.

We just got a HarbourFreight near here a couple of months ago. In two
months I managed to spend almost $1000 in toys. I love just going in
there and looking at all the cool stuff. Plus they are the only place
I've found with good airtool accessories.

-robert

Changing oils/water pump
 

Robert M. Gary wrote:

3) Does my boat have an outdrive water pump? The engine has a standard
car water pump

Robert;
That looks like a standard car water pump, they use the housing, but the
internals are different. Different materials, different bearings.

Some people use a replacement from an auto parts store. It will work,
but for a short time.

Costs a lot to break down, use proper parts.

Changing oils
 

On Apr 15, 3:14*am, "John" wrote:

beware you get what you pay for...
I have bought stuff there also, but the quality leaves something to be
desired.
After buying a lot cheap chinese tools at harbourfreight, I have gone back
to buying nothing but Craftsman. *I brought a 30 year old breaker bar, that
I broke by jumping up and down on, *back to Sears - they gave me a new one,
and it was much better built than my original.

I find that generally, for the home mechanic, the quality of harbor is
just fine. They also provide a free lifetime warranty on hand tools
and you can buy inexpensive warranties on other items. If I were
buying tools for professional use I would probably be careful of what
I buy at harbor but for home use, I think I'm good.
I used to rent coil spring compressors until the local shop stopped
renting them. They said its cheaper to go to harbor and buy the $15
spring compressor. It broke on me after 3 uses but it took me 10 years
to get 3 uses out of it.

-Robert

Changing oils/water pump
 

On Apr 14, 5:26*pm, Jim wrote:
Robert M. Gary wrote:
3) Does my boat have an outdrive water pump? The engine has a standard
car water pump

Robert;
That looks like a standard car water pump, they use the housing, but the
internals are different. *Different materials, different bearings.

Some people use a replacement from an auto parts store. *It will work,
but for a short time.

Costs a lot to break down, use proper parts.

Agreed on the water pump. The sutomotive type is cheaper, but it has
different , more economical type bearings. why? because on an
automotive enclosed system, the anti-freeze coolant itself is a
lubricant/ rust inhibiter, for the bearings sake. so they don't have
to be "special". PLUS the automotive style will usually have a cast
iron impeller, where the marine is stainles steel.

automotive will bolt on and work, but you'll get much longer service
life out of the O.E marine unit. even though it costs more up front,
it's cheaper, and more reliable in the long haul.

Changing oils
 

"John" wrote in message
...

"Robert M. Gary" wrote in message
...
I'm looking through the previous owner's service receipts on my 03
Bayliner 185 (4.3L) boat. The dealer is charging $600 to change the
engine and drive oils.

The reason they get the name "Stealership".

Change the oil yourself! go to harbourfeight.com they sell a standup oil
pump for $20.
The outdrive can be the hardest, there are two cap screws one at the
bottom and one at the top, take them both out and let it run. If you have
a reservoir in the engine compartment for outdrive oil, you can put the
bottom cap screw back in and fill it from the engine compartment - but it
runs SLOW! Or you squeeze it in by the tube, they also sell an adapter
hose that screws into the cap screw hole and connects to quarts of gear
oil.
Use good quality 30 weight oil in the engine.

By all means get a manual!



Where did you get that outdrive fill procedure? It doesn't sound right to
me.

Changing oils
 

"JimH" wrote in message
...

"Robert M. Gary" wrote in message
...
I'm looking through the previous owner's service receipts on my 03
Bayliner 185 (4.3L) boat. The dealer is charging $600 to change the
engine and drive oils. This seems like something I should be able to
do myself. However, I'm trying to find out the following...

I would stop taking the boat to that dealer for service. They are raping
you.



Don't forget the engine zinc (s) if there are any on that engine. Many
shops don't bother going to look for the broken off ones so you may have to
go hunting if the old zinc is broken off. (Assuming they are pencil zincs)

I now paint the first 1/2" from the thread forward so that it gives up it's
metal last instead of first and that has lessened my need to go "zinc
hunting".

Changing oils
 

On Apr 15, 5:47*am, "Jim" wrote:
"John" wrote in message

...





"Robert M. Gary" wrote in message
...
I'm looking through the previous owner's service receipts on my 03
Bayliner 185 (4.3L) boat. The dealer is charging $600 to change the
engine and drive oils.

The reason they get the name "Stealership".

Change the oil yourself! *go to harbourfeight.com they sell a standup oil
pump for $20.
The outdrive can be the hardest, there are two cap screws one at the
bottom and one at the top, take them both out and let it run. *If you have
a reservoir in the engine compartment for outdrive oil, you can put the
bottom cap screw back in and fill it from the engine compartment - but it
runs SLOW! *Or you squeeze it in by the tube, they also sell an adapter
hose that screws into the cap screw hole and connects to quarts of gear
oil.
Use good quality 30 weight oil in the engine.

By all means get a manual!

Where did you get that outdrive fill procedure? It doesn't sound right to
me.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I know it doesn't sound right, but it is. The lower end oil actually
fills from the bottom..up.

I know what Jim's saying about not doing an adiquate job with a
typical squeeze bottle, that's why I take the upper crown cap off to
make sure it's full.

Changing oils
 

Tim wrote:
On Apr 15, 5:47 am, "Jim" wrote:
"John" wrote in message

...





"Robert M. Gary" wrote in message
...
I'm looking through the previous owner's service receipts on my 03
Bayliner 185 (4.3L) boat. The dealer is charging $600 to change the
engine and drive oils.
The reason they get the name "Stealership".
Change the oil yourself! go to harbourfeight.com they sell a standup oil
pump for $20.
The outdrive can be the hardest, there are two cap screws one at the
bottom and one at the top, take them both out and let it run. If you have
a reservoir in the engine compartment for outdrive oil, you can put the
bottom cap screw back in and fill it from the engine compartment - but it
runs SLOW! Or you squeeze it in by the tube, they also sell an adapter
hose that screws into the cap screw hole and connects to quarts of gear
oil.
Use good quality 30 weight oil in the engine.
By all means get a manual!
Where did you get that outdrive fill procedure? It doesn't sound right to
me.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I know it doesn't sound right, but it is. The lower end oil actually
fills from the bottom..up.

I know what Jim's saying about not doing an adiquate job with a
typical squeeze bottle, that's why I take the upper crown cap off to
make sure it's full.


Filling the lower unit up from the bottom drain hole has been the
recommended procedure for decades, at least on outboards. You pump the
oil in until it comes out the top hole. Seems logical it would be the
same on an I/O equipped with the same sort of oil fill holes.

Changing oils
 

On Apr 15, 10:46*am, "John" wrote:
"Jim" wrote in message

...







"John" wrote in message
...

"Robert M. Gary" wrote in message
....
I'm looking through the previous owner's service receipts on my 03
Bayliner 185 (4.3L) boat. The dealer is charging $600 to change the
engine and drive oils.

The reason they get the name "Stealership".

Change the oil yourself! *go to harbourfeight.com they sell a standup oil
pump for $20.
The outdrive can be the hardest, there are two cap screws one at the
bottom and one at the top, take them both out and let it run. *If you
have a reservoir in the engine compartment for outdrive oil, you can put
the bottom cap screw back in and fill it from the engine compartment -
but it runs SLOW! *Or you squeeze it in by the tube, they also sell an
adapter hose that screws into the cap screw hole and connects to quarts
of gear oil.
Use good quality 30 weight oil in the engine.

By all means get a manual!

Where did you get that outdrive fill procedure? It doesn't sound right to
me.

Its called a short cut -
according to the manual you are supposed to put the oil in from the bottom
and fill to the top - a royal PITA! *I did this for years, then realizes
that I could fill it from the engine compartment reservoir and it would
drain down. *After changing the oil and doing it this way, you WILL have to
top off the reservoir after the first run, but I never have seen it get so
low as to throw a light.
However YOU assume the risk!- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

John, unless your alpha's are different than mine, I've never heard of
or seen a engine compartment reservoir. That is, unless you're
talking about the trim pump.

Changing oils
 

"John" wrote in message
...

"Jim" wrote in message
...

"John" wrote in message
...

"Robert M. Gary" wrote in message
...
I'm looking through the previous owner's service receipts on my 03
Bayliner 185 (4.3L) boat. The dealer is charging $600 to change the
engine and drive oils.

The reason they get the name "Stealership".

Change the oil yourself! go to harbourfeight.com they sell a standup
oil pump for $20.
The outdrive can be the hardest, there are two cap screws one at the
bottom and one at the top, take them both out and let it run. If you
have a reservoir in the engine compartment for outdrive oil, you can put
the bottom cap screw back in and fill it from the engine compartment -
but it runs SLOW! Or you squeeze it in by the tube, they also sell an
adapter hose that screws into the cap screw hole and connects to quarts
of gear oil.
Use good quality 30 weight oil in the engine.

By all means get a manual!



Where did you get that outdrive fill procedure? It doesn't sound right to
me.

Its called a short cut -
according to the manual you are supposed to put the oil in from the bottom
and fill to the top - a royal PITA! I did this for years, then realizes
that I could fill it from the engine compartment reservoir and it would
drain down. After changing the oil and doing it this way, you WILL have
to top off the reservoir after the first run, but I never have seen it get
so low as to throw a light.
However YOU assume the risk!

No thank you.