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Changing oils
I'm looking through the previous owner's service receipts on my 03
Bayliner 185 (4.3L) boat. The dealer is charging $600 to change the engine and drive oils. This seems like something I should be able to do myself. However, I'm trying to find out the following... 1) Does my engine have an engine oil drain or do I have to pump it out? 2) I see that changing the drive oil requires some sort of kit to pump the new oil up the drive unit. I don't see anyone who sells this pump. Is this something an owner can reasonably buy? 3) Does my boat have an outdrive water pump? The engine has a standard car water pump so I was surprised to see references online to a sterm drive water pump as well. The previous owner said something about having to change a water pump every 2 years. 4) I believe I have an "Alpha" drive. I see there is a zerk fitting on the outdrive. However, I don't see anything in the manual regarding what should be put in it (standard grease?) and how often/why.etc. Usually zerks are put on places that require regular lubing. The dealer quotes $1000 to do an annual maintenance. I'm thinking I'm handy enough that I should be able to do some of this myself. -Robert |
Changing oils
On Apr 14, 1:34*pm, "Robert M. Gary" wrote:
I'm looking through the previous owner's service receipts on my 03 Bayliner 185 (4.3L) boat. The dealer is charging $600 to change the engine and drive oils. This seems like something I should be able to do myself. However, I'm trying to find out the following... 1) Does my engine have an engine oil drain or do I have to pump it out? 2) I see that changing the drive oil requires some sort of kit to pump the new oil up the drive unit. I don't see anyone who sells this pump. Is this something an owner can reasonably buy? 3) Does my boat have an outdrive water pump? The engine has a standard car water pump so I was surprised to see references online to a sterm drive water pump as well. The previous owner said something about having to change a water pump every 2 years. 4) I believe I have an "Alpha" drive. I see there is a zerk fitting on the outdrive. However, I don't see anything in the manual regarding what should be put in it (standard grease?) and how often/why.etc. Usually zerks are put on places that require regular lubing. The dealer quotes $1000 to do an annual maintenance. I'm thinking I'm handy enough that I should be able to do some of this myself. -Robert Robt. save about $950.00 and do it yourself. Get a Mercruiser book from ebay for alpha drives .They're pretty common and you cn get them from $25-40.00 depending on condition. They are comprehensive and will tell you exactly what to do. changing oil is hard to do. you can reach the drain on the crank case but it's buried down under the engine. plus the only way to drain the oil is to take it off and unfortunately it will leave a very undesiareable gloppy mess down in the bildge. A punp would be recommended to suck the oil out of the dip-stick tube, and they arn't really expensive. th lower end water pump is located inside the lower end. it push's water up to the engine, then the engine pump takes it from there. that is unless it's an enclosed system, but chances are you're is a fresh water or "total loss system. Changing the lower end pump isn't really that difficult if you follow the instructions. To pull the lower end change the pump and re -install takes abotu 45 min. to a hr. or at least that's been my experience. and you can do it with common tools. nothing specialty. To change the lower end oil , you can do that with a squeeze tube that the oil is provided in. after draining the lower end oil, you take the tube and cut the end off to the desired opening size , shove into the drain hole, and squeeze like crazy. thsi forces the oil up to the top. Thats my view in a nutshell, but get a book. it will make procedures practaclly fool proof. BTW, the book WILL provide you with 99.99 % of the knowledge you'll need about the engine, drive, and necessary adjustments to keep your boat running well. |
Changing oils
On Apr 14, 1:34*pm, "Robert M. Gary" wrote:
I'm looking through the previous owner's service receipts on my 03 Bayliner 185 (4.3L) boat. The dealer is charging $600 to change the engine and drive oils. This seems like something I should be able to do myself. However, I'm trying to find out the following... 1) Does my engine have an engine oil drain or do I have to pump it out? 2) I see that changing the drive oil requires some sort of kit to pump the new oil up the drive unit. I don't see anyone who sells this pump. Is this something an owner can reasonably buy? 3) Does my boat have an outdrive water pump? The engine has a standard car water pump so I was surprised to see references online to a sterm drive water pump as well. The previous owner said something about having to change a water pump every 2 years. 4) I believe I have an "Alpha" drive. I see there is a zerk fitting on the outdrive. However, I don't see anything in the manual regarding what should be put in it (standard grease?) and how often/why.etc. Usually zerks are put on places that require regular lubing. The dealer quotes $1000 to do an annual maintenance. I'm thinking I'm handy enough that I should be able to do some of this myself. -Robert Concerning the zerk. I believe the one you are talkign about is to lubricate the gimbal bearing. which is in between the lower end and the boat hull. The mercruiser book will inform you about that as well. |
Changing oils
Tim wrote:
On Apr 14, 1:34 pm, "Robert M. Gary" wrote: I'm looking through the previous owner's service receipts on my 03 Bayliner 185 (4.3L) boat. The dealer is charging $600 to change the engine and drive oils. This seems like something I should be able to do myself. However, I'm trying to find out the following... 1) Does my engine have an engine oil drain or do I have to pump it out? 2) I see that changing the drive oil requires some sort of kit to pump the new oil up the drive unit. I don't see anyone who sells this pump. Is this something an owner can reasonably buy? 3) Does my boat have an outdrive water pump? The engine has a standard car water pump so I was surprised to see references online to a sterm drive water pump as well. The previous owner said something about having to change a water pump every 2 years. 4) I believe I have an "Alpha" drive. I see there is a zerk fitting on the outdrive. However, I don't see anything in the manual regarding what should be put in it (standard grease?) and how often/why.etc. Usually zerks are put on places that require regular lubing. The dealer quotes $1000 to do an annual maintenance. I'm thinking I'm handy enough that I should be able to do some of this myself. -Robert Robt. save about $950.00 and do it yourself. Get a Mercruiser book from ebay for alpha drives .They're pretty common and you cn get them from $25-40.00 depending on condition. They are comprehensive and will tell you exactly what to do. changing oil is hard to do. you can reach the drain on the crank case but it's buried down under the engine. plus the only way to drain the oil is to take it off and unfortunately it will leave a very undesiareable gloppy mess down in the bildge. A punp would be recommended to suck the oil out of the dip-stick tube, and they arn't really expensive. th lower end water pump is located inside the lower end. it push's water up to the engine, then the engine pump takes it from there. that is unless it's an enclosed system, but chances are you're is a fresh water or "total loss system. Changing the lower end pump isn't really that difficult if you follow the instructions. To pull the lower end change the pump and re -install takes abotu 45 min. to a hr. or at least that's been my experience. and you can do it with common tools. nothing specialty. To change the lower end oil , you can do that with a squeeze tube that the oil is provided in. after draining the lower end oil, you take the tube and cut the end off to the desired opening size , shove into the drain hole, and squeeze like crazy. thsi forces the oil up to the top. Thats my view in a nutshell, but get a book. it will make procedures practaclly fool proof. BTW, the book WILL provide you with 99.99 % of the knowledge you'll need about the engine, drive, and necessary adjustments to keep your boat running well. $600 seems an incredible amount of money to change engine and drive oil. Shouldn't be more than a half hour to 45 minutes hour of flat-rate book time for both, if a real mechanic is doing it. There's nothing special about the engine oil, either. Whatever weight the engine manufacturer recommends for your weather conditions, times what, five or six quarts, including a quart for the filter? I dunno about I/O lower unit oil, having never owned an I/O boat. I would think a decent shop would charge about $75-$100 for an oil and filter change, including the oil. Best way to learn how to change the lower unit impeller is to watch a real mechanic do it. |
Changing oils
On Apr 14, 2:01*pm, HK wrote:
Tim wrote: On Apr 14, 1:34 pm, "Robert M. Gary" wrote: I'm looking through the previous owner's service receipts on my 03 Bayliner 185 (4.3L) boat. The dealer is charging $600 to change the engine and drive oils. This seems like something I should be able to do myself. However, I'm trying to find out the following... 1) Does my engine have an engine oil drain or do I have to pump it out? 2) I see that changing the drive oil requires some sort of kit to pump the new oil up the drive unit. I don't see anyone who sells this pump. Is this something an owner can reasonably buy? 3) Does my boat have an outdrive water pump? The engine has a standard car water pump so I was surprised to see references online to a sterm drive water pump as well. The previous owner said something about having to change a water pump every 2 years. 4) I believe I have an "Alpha" drive. I see there is a zerk fitting on the outdrive. However, I don't see anything in the manual regarding what should be put in it (standard grease?) and how often/why.etc. Usually zerks are put on places that require regular lubing. The dealer quotes $1000 to do an annual maintenance. I'm thinking I'm handy enough that I should be able to do some of this myself. -Robert Robt. save about $950.00 and do it yourself. Get a Mercruiser book from ebay for alpha drives .They're pretty common and you cn get them from $25-40.00 depending on condition. They are comprehensive and will tell you exactly what to do. changing oil is hard to do. you can reach the drain on the crank case but it's buried down under the engine. plus the only way to drain the oil is to take it off and unfortunately it will leave a very undesiareable gloppy mess down in the bildge. A punp would be recommended to suck the oil out of the dip-stick tube, and they arn't really expensive. th lower end water pump is located inside the lower end. it push's water up to the engine, then the engine pump takes it from there. that is unless it's an enclosed system, but chances are you're is a fresh water or "total loss system. Changing the lower end pump isn't really that difficult if you follow the instructions. To pull the lower end change the pump and re -install takes abotu 45 min. to a hr. or at least that's been my experience. and you can do it with common tools. nothing specialty. To change the lower end oil , you can do that with a squeeze tube that the oil is provided in. after draining the lower end oil, you take the tube and cut the end off to the desired opening size , shove into the drain hole, and squeeze like crazy. thsi forces the oil up to the top. Thats my view in a nutshell, but get a book. it will make procedures practaclly fool proof. BTW, the book WILL provide you with 99.99 % of the knowledge you'll need about the engine, drive, and necessary adjustments to keep your boat running well. $600 seems an incredible amount of money to change engine and drive oil. Shouldn't be more than a half hour to 45 minutes hour of flat-rate book time for both, if a real mechanic is doing it. There's nothing special about the engine oil, either. Whatever weight the engine manufacturer recommends for your weather conditions, times what, five or six quarts, including a quart for the filter? I dunno about I/O lower unit oil, having never owned an I/O boat. I would think a decent shop would charge about $75-$100 for an oil and filter change, including the oil. Best way to learn how to change the lower unit impeller is to watch a real mechanic do it.- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Agreed with all the above. $300.00 would be generous for a winterization, I would think. But that's plenty. Basck on the manuals. I don't know about SELOC but I've been very impressed and satisfied with the Clymers. Pick you the year range of your boat and go from the http://motors.shop.ebay.com/_Manuals...fxdZ1QQ_ptasZ1 |
Changing oils
On Apr 14, 12:11*pm, Tim wrote:
Agreed with all the above. $300.00 would be generous for a winterization, I would think. But that's plenty. The bill from the end of last summer shows $360 pts&lbr just for the engine oil. I'm not sure we "winterize" in California. People seem to boat year around. The stern drive service was billed at $250 so perhaps there was more to that service than oil change but oil and gaskets were the only parts listed. -robert |
Changing oils
On Apr 14, 12:11*pm, Tim wrote:
On Apr 14, 2:01*pm, HK wrote: Tim wrote: On Apr 14, 1:34 pm, "Robert M. Gary" wrote: I'm looking through the previous owner's service receipts on my 03 Bayliner 185 (4.3L) boat. The dealer is charging $600 to change the engine and drive oils. This seems like something I should be able to do myself. However, I'm trying to find out the following... 1) Does my engine have an engine oil drain or do I have to pump it out? 2) I see that changing the drive oil requires some sort of kit to pump the new oil up the drive unit. I don't see anyone who sells this pump.. Is this something an owner can reasonably buy? 3) Does my boat have an outdrive water pump? The engine has a standard car water pump so I was surprised to see references online to a sterm drive water pump as well. The previous owner said something about having to change a water pump every 2 years. 4) I believe I have an "Alpha" drive. I see there is a zerk fitting on the outdrive. However, I don't see anything in the manual regarding what should be put in it (standard grease?) and how often/why.etc. Usually zerks are put on places that require regular lubing. The dealer quotes $1000 to do an annual maintenance. I'm thinking I'm handy enough that I should be able to do some of this myself. -Robert Robt. save about $950.00 and do it yourself. Get a Mercruiser book from ebay for alpha drives .They're pretty common and you cn get them from $25-40.00 depending on condition. They are comprehensive and will tell you exactly what to do. changing oil is hard to do. you can reach the drain on the crank case but it's buried down under the engine. plus the only way to drain the oil is to take it off and unfortunately it will leave a very undesiareable gloppy mess down in the bildge. A punp would be recommended to suck the oil out of the dip-stick tube, and they arn't really expensive. th lower end water pump is located inside the lower end. it push's water up to the engine, then the engine pump takes it from there. that is unless it's an enclosed system, but chances are you're is a fresh water or "total loss system. Changing the lower end pump isn't really that difficult if you follow the instructions. To pull the lower end change the pump and re -install takes abotu 45 min. to a hr. or at least that's been my experience. and you can do it with common tools. nothing specialty. To change the lower end oil , you can do that with a squeeze tube that the oil is provided in. after draining the lower end oil, you take the tube and cut the end off to the desired opening size , shove into the drain hole, and squeeze like crazy. thsi forces the oil up to the top. Thats my view in a nutshell, but get a book. it will make procedures practaclly fool proof. BTW, the book WILL provide you with 99.99 % of the knowledge you'll need about the engine, drive, and necessary adjustments to keep your boat running well. $600 seems an incredible amount of money to change engine and drive oil. Shouldn't be more than a half hour to 45 minutes hour of flat-rate book time for both, if a real mechanic is doing it. There's nothing special about the engine oil, either. Whatever weight the engine manufacturer recommends for your weather conditions, times what, five or six quarts, including a quart for the filter? I dunno about I/O lower unit oil, having never owned an I/O boat. I would think a decent shop would charge about $75-$100 for an oil and filter change, including the oil. Best way to learn how to change the lower unit impeller is to watch a real mechanic do it.- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Agreed with all the above. $300.00 would be generous for a winterization, I would think. But that's plenty. Basck on the manuals. I don't know about SELOC but I've been very impressed and satisfied with the Clymers. I went ahead and bought the SELOC manual. I didn't see the other brand for my year. I'm looking forward to it. When I was 15 I bought an old Toyota and then bought the Chilton manual for it. I read that book cover to cover several times. -Robert |
Changing oils
Robert M. Gary wrote:
On Apr 14, 12:11 pm, Tim wrote: Agreed with all the above. $300.00 would be generous for a winterization, I would think. But that's plenty. The bill from the end of last summer shows $360 pts&lbr just for the engine oil. I'm not sure we "winterize" in California. People seem to boat year around. The stern drive service was billed at $250 so perhaps there was more to that service than oil change but oil and gaskets were the only parts listed. -robert $360 for an oil change on what is basically a car engine is highway robbery. What you are talking about here is six quarts of (being generous) $3.00 a quart oil, an $8 oil filter, an oil disposal fee, and well under an hour's work. $75 to $$100 may be a fair price. Whoever paid $360 bent over pretty damned far. |
Changing oils
On Apr 14, 4:30*pm, "Robert M. Gary" wrote:
On Apr 14, 12:11*pm, Tim wrote: Agreed with all the above. $300.00 would be generous for a winterization, I would think. But that's plenty. The bill from the end of last summer shows $360 pts&lbr just for the engine oil. I'm not sure we "winterize" in California. People seem to boat year around. The stern drive service was billed at $250 so perhaps there was more to that service than oil change but oil and gaskets were the only parts listed. -robert Robert, you're getting poked. or as JimH said, you're getting raped. No, unless you live in N. Cal. winterizing shouldn't be a concern. But at a reputable shop, a complete tune up including fluid changes I would think should be less than $400.00. |
Changing oils
On Apr 15, 4:33*am, "John" wrote:
"Robert M. Gary" wrote in ... I'm looking through the previous owner's service receipts on my 03 Bayliner 185 (4.3L) boat. The dealer is charging $600 to change the engine and drive oils. The reason they get the name "Stealership". Change the oil yourself! *go to harbourfeight.com they sell a standup oil pump for $20. The outdrive can be the hardest, there are two cap screws one at the bottom and one at the top, take them both out and let it run. *If you have a reservoir in the engine compartment for outdrive oil, you can put the bottom cap screw back in and fill it from the engine compartment - but it runs SLOW! *Or you squeeze it in by the tube, they also sell an adapter hose that screws into the cap screw hole and connects to quarts of gear oil. Use good quality 30 weight oil in the engine. By all means get a manual! Indeed! What I do on mine is squeeze the oil in from the bottom, and to make sure the upper is full, I've taked the crown cap off the top of the lower end, and made sure the oil was fully to the top, so no air pockets were evident. |
Changing oils
On Apr 15, 2:33*am, "John" wrote:
"Robert M. Gary" wrote in ... I'm looking through the previous owner's service receipts on my 03 Bayliner 185 (4.3L) boat. The dealer is charging $600 to change the engine and drive oils. The reason they get the name "Stealership". Change the oil yourself! *go to harbourfeight.com they sell a standup oil pump for $20. We just got a HarbourFreight near here a couple of months ago. In two months I managed to spend almost $1000 in toys. I love just going in there and looking at all the cool stuff. Plus they are the only place I've found with good airtool accessories. -robert |
Changing oils/water pump
Robert M. Gary wrote:
3) Does my boat have an outdrive water pump? The engine has a standard car water pump Robert; That looks like a standard car water pump, they use the housing, but the internals are different. Different materials, different bearings. Some people use a replacement from an auto parts store. It will work, but for a short time. Costs a lot to break down, use proper parts. |
Changing oils
On Apr 15, 3:14*am, "John" wrote:
beware you get what you pay for... I have bought stuff there also, but the quality leaves something to be desired. After buying a lot cheap chinese tools at harbourfreight, I have gone back to buying nothing but Craftsman. *I brought a 30 year old breaker bar, that I broke by jumping up and down on, *back to Sears - they gave me a new one, and it was much better built than my original. I find that generally, for the home mechanic, the quality of harbor is just fine. They also provide a free lifetime warranty on hand tools and you can buy inexpensive warranties on other items. If I were buying tools for professional use I would probably be careful of what I buy at harbor but for home use, I think I'm good. I used to rent coil spring compressors until the local shop stopped renting them. They said its cheaper to go to harbor and buy the $15 spring compressor. It broke on me after 3 uses but it took me 10 years to get 3 uses out of it. -Robert |
Changing oils/water pump
On Apr 14, 5:26*pm, Jim wrote:
Robert M. Gary wrote: 3) Does my boat have an outdrive water pump? The engine has a standard car water pump Robert; That looks like a standard car water pump, they use the housing, but the internals are different. *Different materials, different bearings. Some people use a replacement from an auto parts store. *It will work, but for a short time. Costs a lot to break down, use proper parts. Agreed on the water pump. The sutomotive type is cheaper, but it has different , more economical type bearings. why? because on an automotive enclosed system, the anti-freeze coolant itself is a lubricant/ rust inhibiter, for the bearings sake. so they don't have to be "special". PLUS the automotive style will usually have a cast iron impeller, where the marine is stainles steel. automotive will bolt on and work, but you'll get much longer service life out of the O.E marine unit. even though it costs more up front, it's cheaper, and more reliable in the long haul. |
Changing oils
"John" wrote in message ... "Robert M. Gary" wrote in message ... I'm looking through the previous owner's service receipts on my 03 Bayliner 185 (4.3L) boat. The dealer is charging $600 to change the engine and drive oils. The reason they get the name "Stealership". Change the oil yourself! go to harbourfeight.com they sell a standup oil pump for $20. The outdrive can be the hardest, there are two cap screws one at the bottom and one at the top, take them both out and let it run. If you have a reservoir in the engine compartment for outdrive oil, you can put the bottom cap screw back in and fill it from the engine compartment - but it runs SLOW! Or you squeeze it in by the tube, they also sell an adapter hose that screws into the cap screw hole and connects to quarts of gear oil. Use good quality 30 weight oil in the engine. By all means get a manual! Where did you get that outdrive fill procedure? It doesn't sound right to me. |
Changing oils
"JimH" wrote in message ... "Robert M. Gary" wrote in message ... I'm looking through the previous owner's service receipts on my 03 Bayliner 185 (4.3L) boat. The dealer is charging $600 to change the engine and drive oils. This seems like something I should be able to do myself. However, I'm trying to find out the following... I would stop taking the boat to that dealer for service. They are raping you. Don't forget the engine zinc (s) if there are any on that engine. Many shops don't bother going to look for the broken off ones so you may have to go hunting if the old zinc is broken off. (Assuming they are pencil zincs) I now paint the first 1/2" from the thread forward so that it gives up it's metal last instead of first and that has lessened my need to go "zinc hunting". |
Changing oils
On Apr 15, 5:47*am, "Jim" wrote:
"John" wrote in message ... "Robert M. Gary" wrote in message ... I'm looking through the previous owner's service receipts on my 03 Bayliner 185 (4.3L) boat. The dealer is charging $600 to change the engine and drive oils. The reason they get the name "Stealership". Change the oil yourself! *go to harbourfeight.com they sell a standup oil pump for $20. The outdrive can be the hardest, there are two cap screws one at the bottom and one at the top, take them both out and let it run. *If you have a reservoir in the engine compartment for outdrive oil, you can put the bottom cap screw back in and fill it from the engine compartment - but it runs SLOW! *Or you squeeze it in by the tube, they also sell an adapter hose that screws into the cap screw hole and connects to quarts of gear oil. Use good quality 30 weight oil in the engine. By all means get a manual! Where did you get that outdrive fill procedure? It doesn't sound right to me.- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - I know it doesn't sound right, but it is. The lower end oil actually fills from the bottom..up. I know what Jim's saying about not doing an adiquate job with a typical squeeze bottle, that's why I take the upper crown cap off to make sure it's full. |
Changing oils
Tim wrote:
On Apr 15, 5:47 am, "Jim" wrote: "John" wrote in message ... "Robert M. Gary" wrote in message ... I'm looking through the previous owner's service receipts on my 03 Bayliner 185 (4.3L) boat. The dealer is charging $600 to change the engine and drive oils. The reason they get the name "Stealership". Change the oil yourself! go to harbourfeight.com they sell a standup oil pump for $20. The outdrive can be the hardest, there are two cap screws one at the bottom and one at the top, take them both out and let it run. If you have a reservoir in the engine compartment for outdrive oil, you can put the bottom cap screw back in and fill it from the engine compartment - but it runs SLOW! Or you squeeze it in by the tube, they also sell an adapter hose that screws into the cap screw hole and connects to quarts of gear oil. Use good quality 30 weight oil in the engine. By all means get a manual! Where did you get that outdrive fill procedure? It doesn't sound right to me.- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - I know it doesn't sound right, but it is. The lower end oil actually fills from the bottom..up. I know what Jim's saying about not doing an adiquate job with a typical squeeze bottle, that's why I take the upper crown cap off to make sure it's full. Filling the lower unit up from the bottom drain hole has been the recommended procedure for decades, at least on outboards. You pump the oil in until it comes out the top hole. Seems logical it would be the same on an I/O equipped with the same sort of oil fill holes. |
Changing oils
On Apr 15, 10:46*am, "John" wrote:
"Jim" wrote in message ... "John" wrote in message ... "Robert M. Gary" wrote in message .... I'm looking through the previous owner's service receipts on my 03 Bayliner 185 (4.3L) boat. The dealer is charging $600 to change the engine and drive oils. The reason they get the name "Stealership". Change the oil yourself! *go to harbourfeight.com they sell a standup oil pump for $20. The outdrive can be the hardest, there are two cap screws one at the bottom and one at the top, take them both out and let it run. *If you have a reservoir in the engine compartment for outdrive oil, you can put the bottom cap screw back in and fill it from the engine compartment - but it runs SLOW! *Or you squeeze it in by the tube, they also sell an adapter hose that screws into the cap screw hole and connects to quarts of gear oil. Use good quality 30 weight oil in the engine. By all means get a manual! Where did you get that outdrive fill procedure? It doesn't sound right to me. Its called a short cut - according to the manual you are supposed to put the oil in from the bottom and fill to the top - a royal PITA! *I did this for years, then realizes that I could fill it from the engine compartment reservoir and it would drain down. *After changing the oil and doing it this way, you WILL have to top off the reservoir after the first run, but I never have seen it get so low as to throw a light. However YOU assume the risk!- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - John, unless your alpha's are different than mine, I've never heard of or seen a engine compartment reservoir. That is, unless you're talking about the trim pump. |
Changing oils
"John" wrote in message ... "Jim" wrote in message ... "John" wrote in message ... "Robert M. Gary" wrote in message ... I'm looking through the previous owner's service receipts on my 03 Bayliner 185 (4.3L) boat. The dealer is charging $600 to change the engine and drive oils. The reason they get the name "Stealership". Change the oil yourself! go to harbourfeight.com they sell a standup oil pump for $20. The outdrive can be the hardest, there are two cap screws one at the bottom and one at the top, take them both out and let it run. If you have a reservoir in the engine compartment for outdrive oil, you can put the bottom cap screw back in and fill it from the engine compartment - but it runs SLOW! Or you squeeze it in by the tube, they also sell an adapter hose that screws into the cap screw hole and connects to quarts of gear oil. Use good quality 30 weight oil in the engine. By all means get a manual! Where did you get that outdrive fill procedure? It doesn't sound right to me. Its called a short cut - according to the manual you are supposed to put the oil in from the bottom and fill to the top - a royal PITA! I did this for years, then realizes that I could fill it from the engine compartment reservoir and it would drain down. After changing the oil and doing it this way, you WILL have to top off the reservoir after the first run, but I never have seen it get so low as to throw a light. However YOU assume the risk! No thank you. |
Changing oils
On Apr 15, 12:00*pm, "John" wrote:
"Tim" wrote in message ... On Apr 15, 10:46 am, "John" wrote: "Jim" wrote in message ... "John" wrote in message ... "Robert M. Gary" wrote in message .... I'm looking through the previous owner's service receipts on my 03 Bayliner 185 (4.3L) boat. The dealer is charging $600 to change the engine and drive oils. The reason they get the name "Stealership". Change the oil yourself! go to harbourfeight.com they sell a standup oil pump for $20. The outdrive can be the hardest, there are two cap screws one at the bottom and one at the top, take them both out and let it run. If you have a reservoir in the engine compartment for outdrive oil, you can put the bottom cap screw back in and fill it from the engine compartment - but it runs SLOW! Or you squeeze it in by the tube, they also sell an adapter hose that screws into the cap screw hole and connects to quarts of gear oil. Use good quality 30 weight oil in the engine. By all means get a manual! Where did you get that outdrive fill procedure? It doesn't sound right to me. Its called a short cut - according to the manual you are supposed to put the oil in from the bottom and fill to the top - a royal PITA! I did this for years, then realizes that I could fill it from the engine compartment reservoir and it would drain down. After changing the oil and doing it this way, you WILL have to top off the reservoir after the first run, but I never have seen it get so low as to throw a light. However YOU assume the risk!- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - John, unless your alpha's are different than mine, I've never heard of or seen a engine compartment reservoir. *That is, unless you're talking about the trim pump. ********** 4.3 alpha- it has a reservoir is on top of the engine, what year is your boat? http://www.mercruiserparts.com/Show_...69%2096&iv...- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - The 18 ft. is a '83 alpha 3.0 The 23' is a '77 alpha 5.7 (350 chevy) |
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